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4" spring cut off mod

buzz95610

buzz95610

Bicycle
Almost done with this project, one question.
When putting spring, flat washer & spacer back in, do you reinstall the original flat disc with the small holes on top of the PVC before putting the cap back in place?

Thanks,
Buzz
 
With help form SISF We got it taken care of.
Went reading through all of the Fork threads and none stated the disc neeeded to go back in place. I thought it did, just wanted to make sure.
Thanks for the reply.
Buzz
 
GeorgeRYoung said:
Now, you've stirred my curiosity.

What does the preload adjuster press down on?
Click to expand...

  You were of course correct George. He had emailed or pm'ed me, and for whatever reason didn't acknoledge your correct answer. I answered exactly the same as you had. Steve
 
SISF and George,
Thanks to both of you for responding to my question.
In my haste to get back to the bike work I may have not gotten back to Steve after he sent his message.
I certainly appreciate you guys taking the time to help!!
Buzz
 
The spring cut off mod went very smooth. Not a complicated process, but thanks to those that helped explain the final assembly.
Everything is back together and awaiting decent weather so I can get  test ride in.
Looking forward to a much improved ride.
Buzz
 
Okay, had to do a recheck of the valve adjustment and new Mobil1 oil/filter change.
Weather has been crappy or work schedule too busy to get a test ride done. But luckily the rain stopped long enough this afternoon to see what the spring mod feels like. WOW, what a difference!!  The front end feels so much more stable, seems to hold the line in the corner better and no more diving and plowing when hitting the front brakes. What a good value for the little $$$ spent to do this.
Looks like this summer will be filled with quality riding time.
Buzz :beerchug:
 
Purchase 2 more washers and insert one each between the spring and PVC pipe so the spring won't eat up the pipe. Gray PVC is harder than white and less distensible. Pull the cotter pins from the adjusters and put the caps back on by hand, then put the adjusters back in. No force needed this way. And get some real thick fork oil, ur gonna need it. Ever press down on race suspension? How bout and good suspension? Observe compression and rebound dampening. The Concours was weak in this area and it just gets worse when the springs mod is done. I have 30wt motor oil in mine now and its still not dampened enough. You're on the right path with this mod. Keep on it. and if you find thicker oil, holler at me.
 
  I decided to do this today.  While I did not take off the forks but went through the top of the forks.  While I know that removing the forks is better and you can check the seals, I just did not have the room or the tools to do it.  So I cut the springs 5" and replaced with 5" of PVC pipe. 

  The part that had me slightly baffled is how much oil to add after sucking out the oil with my mini vac. ( I removed only 5 ounces of oil, which is probably due to the fact that I was unable to compress the forks all the way. 

  What is the danger of over filling the forks with oil?
 
You want to measure the oil with the springs out and the forks either compressed, or fully distended depending on the year. I bought the syringe/measure tool from Motion Pro. The specs are in the clymer or somebody knows them. Definitely recommend a shop manual.
 
Since I needed to replace the weepy fork seals on my C10, I decided to do the spring cutoff mod at the same time. I assumed that the springs were stock when I pulled them out as they are progressively wound, but...they measured a bit longer than the service manual states for stock length, 550mm. Could these be aftermarket? Anyway, I decided to cut off only 3", can always cut off more if necessary. I put the forks back together with 15W oil at the standard height of 6 3/4" with the tubes collapsed, springs out. The WX finally allowed me to take a test ride yesterday, WOW, what a difference! Fork action is now much smoother and controlled, way less front end dive under braking. Thanks to all for the info foar the cutoff mod. On another note, the front brake lever had been pulsating under hard braking so I assumed that that one of the rotors was warped slightly. When I jacked the front end up, I found that the RH wheel bearing was a bit loose. I installed new bearings and seals, the pulsating is gone.
 
Mike,
I'm no expert, but using the forum and expertise of others I got through the project just fine. That is unless someone reads my work write-up and tells me I F'd up big time. I hope not!!!
I did not remove the wheel or diassemble the forks when doing the mod. With the bike on the center stand I put a jack under the engine and after pulling the springs out from the top I lowered the jack which compressed the forks, did this a couple of times. I used a hand pump and long plastic hose to get out the old fork oil. I had to wiggle the hose around a little bit until it went to the bottom of the fork. Once I thought I had all of the old oil out I refilled with new 15wt. With fork still compressed I filled oil to 6-3/4" from top of tube. Raised the bike back up,  put in the springs, washer, PVC insert and caps back on.
Now after 250 miles with the new set up I'm one happy camper. A great improvement for a litttle $$. The ride and control are way better.

Buzz
 
:) :beerchug:WOW what a dramatic improvement I syphoned out all the old blackish fluid via a piece of steel brakeline attached to a tube then to the large syringe I got from the veteranarian.
Refilled each leg with 300 ml of 15 wheight fork fluid.
Cut 3 1/2" off the stock springs and then reinstalled with 3 1/4" long pvc spacers and a 1 1/4" od stainless washer between the spring and the pvc.

I removed the cotter pin from the preloaders and reomeved the center adjusters before re-installing them.

Set the pre-loaders at the 5th mark and perfect for me at 150 LBS.

Thanks guys have fun
 
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