• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

aux power and j box

Chris, there are many ways to do a cig lighter. Questions to consider: Do you want it available when the key is off, or do you want it switched with the key? Do you smoke or do you want to use this for accessories? Do you want this to be a permanent installation (cutting holes in fairings, etc.) or are you looking for something that can be added when needed and taken off later in 1 minute or less? My answers are: available all the time, for accessories, and not permanent. I bought a cigarette lighter with cord from "Bohemian Biker" on Ebay (highly recommended) and I plug it into my Battery Tender cable. The one I got has a SAE plug and I just plug it into the Battery Tender and then route it up to a tank bag. I use it for my phone and it could also be used for a GPS. David David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
Murph Kits has a nice power outlet kit with all the parts you need. He also has a great distribution harness that if you get bitten by the Farkle Bug (serious condition) can be used to power any electrical accessory you can think of. Details for Murph can be found in the Vendor list. If you DYI it Power for an outlet can be tapped from the spare power-outlet under the LHS glove box. Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
2606714340100596652OGFlOW_th.jpg
 
I did my cig lighter to the factory hot leads that are loose under the dash. I did that because I wanted constant power ( not switched power ) for the cig lighter. And its a little higher power than my constant power connections through the aux fuse panel I have. If that was my only writing project that is all I would do, Wire the cig lighter to the factory hot leads. I also have a aux wiring setup I got from Tammy back when she was around. I run the FF50's, LED Running lights, heated grips, Audiovox CC, all run from that with 2 lines open for GPS and Radar Detector when I get them wired in. All have individual fuses, 4 switched, 2 constant, wired directly to the battery through a master fuse. Stebel Horn and Gerbing heated gear wired directly to the battery with its own wiring harness. My current wiring arrangement is: - Aux Lighting Leads: Hella FF50 Driving Lights - Switched #2: Heated Grips & Audiovox Cruise Control - Switched #3: ?? - Switched #4: Murphs LED Running Lights - Always Hot #2: GPS proposed - Always Hot #3: Radar Detector proposed - Factory Hot Leads : 12V Auxillary Socket - Direct to Battery with own fused wire: Stebel Horn - Direct to Battery with own fused wire: Gerbing Heated G3 Gloves and Vests - Direct to Battery : 5 Function Digital Volt Meter Power 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
avatar_lg.jpg
VisitedStatesMap.jpg
VisitedProvincesMap.jpg
 
I got Murph's auxilliary fuse block when I got my heated grips from him. Both were easy to install with excellent directions and have been utterly reliable. I have a cigarette lighter style outlet zip tied to the frame under the lhs glove box, but it's wired to the auxilliary fuse block so it has it's own fuse close to the battery and only works when the key's on. I have my Pioneer Inno running through it. It's handy because I can use other standard 12v items if necessary.
 
http://www.bucksporttouring.com/j-box.html Check here for info on the rebuilt j-box. Or you can do it yourself if you have the know how. For what Larry is getting for these, I didnt mind sending him the money. Upgraded Relays with 50% more current ratings, all solder joints fixed up, shipping, pre-paid return shipping for you core, and a warranty. Given the number of people who have had j-box issues, I consider this a 'should do' for any C10 Connie owner. While that number is low, and in terms of percentage its very low, it still enough people that many look for spare j-boxes and keep them around. Even pack the spare with them on trips. Given the problem is generally crappy factory solder joints that go out over time, heat and vibration, -- why wait for failure and then fix it with a used spare which may contain the same problem down the road. Be proactive and fix it before its a problem. Get you upgrade J-box today. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
avatar_lg.jpg
VisitedStatesMap.jpg
VisitedProvincesMap.jpg
 
thanks for all the response .i will go with the rebuilt j box, and the aux power outlet was foe a g.p.s.so you guys were great.
 
Is this the same kit you were thinking of? Powerlet Socket Battery Harness [PKT-003-48] $40 or this one: Kawasaki Concours 1985-2006 Left Front Panel Kit [PSO-PKT-049] $45 The second kit looks harder to install because of drilling into the fairing. However, I was wondering where the electrical wire ends up going. I bought a bike with heated grips so I don't know how my wiring is set up. I am looking for powering a GPS unit primarily, and then an MP3/FM player 'thing' secondly. Kind of got that 'farkle' bug...
 
Top