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Baker Air Wings

Triplerock

Triplerock

Guest
Guest
Just received and installed up top, left stock pieces in place down below (although they have been reversed.)
Man what a difference!
After install I took a spin around my lake, and instantly felt the wind flow.
How nice to receive a product that is obviously VERY well made, with easy to follow instructions!
Highly recommend if anyone is on the fence.
 
:iagree: this is expensive, but when you have the product in your hand, and better yet installed and using it- you will know the $ was well spent.
Just like Eric Stoltz said to John Travolta in Pulp Fiction- "When you shoot it, you will know exactly where that extra money went."

This and the Bergmen Spin on Oil Filter are the two most impressive improvements I've made to the C10.
 
1400_awconcour_lg.jpg

http://bakerbuiltairwings.com/proddetail.php?prod=CONAW

Looked it up being unfamiliar with the product....
 
Triplerock said:
Just received and installed up top, left stock pieces in place down below (although they have been reversed.)
Man what a difference!
After install I took a spin around my lake, and instantly felt the wind flow.
How nice to receive a product that is obviously VERY well made, with easy to follow instructions!
Highly recommend if anyone is on the fence.
Click to expand...

Can anyone tell me if there is any drilling required to install these, or are they a straight bolt-on?
 
I pulled a similar set off of Jeff Newman’s old 95. Sitting on the shelf till I figure out what to do with them.
 
MichiGlenn said:
Stan, I’ve probably asked this before, but inquiring minds may want to know...did you find lean already bent to shape, or bend your own, and if so, how?
Click to expand...

I used flat stock lexan from one of the big box hardware stores. Lexan is what you want, not plexi.

I clamped the piece in a vice between two blocks of wood.

Used a heat gun to heat up along the line of the clamped area and bent it slowly once it became pliable. Had to check the angles after each bend attempt with a gauge as it would spring back a bit from its farthest location. The process worked well on the first try with no breakage.

The 2 bend wing design works really well IMO. Had a Baker set on my Voyager and they really pour the air into the rider on those hot days just like my homemade ones do now on the C10.
 
If someone wanted to make me an offer on the ones I have, hit me up. I’m also on the cog FB page and the market place. I’m still struggling with pics added to the new site.
 
Just getting to this after being away for a week.

This is a graphic I picked up at the time I crafted mine. It gave me some ideas to get started with.

I'll get some closeup pics of the brackets in a bit.

2279915870089716678aDrIBw_fs.jpg
 
Here are the pics. Sorry, I don't have dimensions and haven't taken the time to measure anything after the fact. This is because my top secret fabrication methodology is to cut, pound, grind, bend and drill stuff until it submits to what I want. It ends up what ever size it gets mashed into! You can probably extrapolate fairly accurate dimensions from the pics.

Two important things were 1) getting a good space between the air wing and the fairing and 2) the proper angle of the wind wing bends. Don't make the angles too severe or it will reduce air flow.

I insulated the lexan from metal hardware contact using rubber washers in the hopes of reducing the chance of lexan breaking or cracking like the rifle windshields tend to do. I'm calling it successful as the lexan has been on the bike for over 10 years.

Most of the bracketry started out as basic corner brackets available in any hardware section in any store. A little cutting was needed along with drilling the holes out a bit to accommodate the metric button head screws. Note the last pic of the top bracket coming from the lexan. That end was cut down and a new hole drilled to keep the edge of the wind wing more perpendicular to the ground. It looked weird before that was done.

All hardware is stainless wherever possible. Nyloc nuts keep tension where I want it, particularly on the hinge points. The hinge tension squeezes thicker rubber washers acting as dampers. Hinge points require adjustment from time to time due to rubber washer wear.

The outside washers are the dished type with integrated rubber washer. Closeups of these show some checking - so far so good.

I keep a stash of rubber washers on hand, as over the years they stretch, check, crack and break, particularly at the hinge pivots.

The top arms extending from the inner fairings just under the hatch covers are 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch steel bar stock. There are custom angle bends to A) provide clearance over the outer fairing trim and B) twists on the outer ends to meet the bracket from the air wing at the proper angle.

This was done through a sophisticated trial and error process, clamping the pieces in the vice followed by pounding and / or bending with a vice grips to achieve the desired results.

I lucked out being able to powder coat the fabricated bracket pieces for free by a friend who was sending in a batch for his business.

This mod was one of the best ones I've done as the heat in the summer was miserable. Along with wider, taller handlebars and a better seat, the C10 is has been perfect for me for many years.

I swap the air wings out with fairing extenders in colder weather removing everything air wing related except the top extender arms where they attach to the inner fairings. Removing the extender arms requires removal of inner fairings and the arms don't interfere with anything anyway.
 

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This is posted in the incorrect order but here is a pic of my first attempt at wind wings, for both upper and lower by the feet to replace the fixed OEM foot scoops.

Two things kept these from being as effective as the 2nd version:

- - The wings weren't far enough away from the fairing edge to bring in enough air.

- - The wings were flat.
 

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Stan, thanks for posting that diagram. I need to either find a replacement wing from my deer encounter (brackets survived) or roll my own.
 
Stasch said:
Here are the pics. Sorry, I don't have dimensions and haven't taken the time to measure anything after the fact. This is because my top secret fabrication methodology is to cut, pound, grind, bend and drill stuff until it submits to what I want. It ends up what ever size it gets mashed into! You can probably extrapolate fairly accurate dimensions from the pics.

Two important things were 1) getting a good space between the air wing and the fairing and 2) the proper angle of the wind wing bends. Don't make the angles too severe or it will reduce air flow.

I insulated the lexan from metal hardware contact using rubber washers in the hopes of reducing the chance of lexan breaking or cracking like the rifle windshields tend to do. I'm calling it successful as the lexan has been on the bike for over 10 years.

Most of the bracketry started out as basic corner brackets available in any hardware section in any store. A little cutting was needed along with drilling the holes out a bit to accommodate the metric button head screws. Note the last pic of the top bracket coming from the lexan. That end was cut down and a new hole drilled to keep the edge of the wind wing more perpendicular to the ground. It looked weird before that was done.

All hardware is stainless wherever possible. Nyloc nuts keep tension where I want it, particularly on the hinge points. The hinge tension squeezes thicker rubber washers acting as dampers. Hinge points require adjustment from time to time due to rubber washer wear.

The outside washers are the dished type with integrated rubber washer. Closeups of these show some checking - so far so good.

I keep a stash of rubber washers on hand, as over the years they stretch, check, crack and break, particularly at the hinge pivots.

The top arms extending from the inner fairings just under the hatch covers are 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch steel bar stock. There are custom angle bends to A) provide clearance over the outer fairing trim and B) twists on the outer ends to meet the bracket from the air wing at the proper angle.

This was done through a sophisticated trial and error process, clamping the pieces in the vice followed by pounding and / or bending with a vice grips to achieve the desired results.

I lucked out being able to powder coat the fabricated bracket pieces for free by a friend who was sending in a batch for his business.

This mod was one of the best ones I've done as the heat in the summer was miserable. Along with wider, taller handlebars and a better seat, the C10 is has been perfect for me for many years.

I swap the air wings out with fairing extenders in colder weather removing everything air wing related except the top extender arms where they attach to the inner fairings. Removing the extender arms requires removal of inner fairings and the arms don't interfere with anything anyway.
Click to expand...
Excellent pictures and descriptions. I think I can do this. Thanks for the confidence booster.
 
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