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Better replacement TPMS batteries

Fred H.

Fred H.

Member
Member
I've been replacing lots of batteries on TPMS sensors for folks, and it has always been a little bit of a struggle to get the tabs on the ones I was getting from Digikey to line up and solder on correctly. So I ordered ones with a different type of tab, and I'm happy to report that they fit and work much better. Once you clean all the solder out of the holes, you can now get stem on the tab to go through the hole and make a good mechanical connection prior to soldering by hooking the tab through the hole. You couldn't do this with the P668-ND ones posted about on here, so I think these are a better choice.

The battery is the identical Panasonic, the only difference is the tabs. The Digikey part number for these are P660-ND

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Fred, how many of these do you replace a month?  You know the equipment and supplies needed to spot-weld tabs onto the terminals of batteries is pretty inexpensive.  In fact you can easily make one yourself.  Might make repairing TPMS modules simpler if you had an exact-fit battery.
 
jwh20,  are you talking about cold soldering?  I hear hot soldering to batteries is not a good thing and I'm curious about the cold version.
Not that I would actually do it since I have enough 668's for the next 20 years. :eek:
 
jwh20 said:
Fred, how many of these do you replace a month?  You know the equipment and supplies needed to spot-weld tabs onto the terminals of batteries is pretty inexpensive.  In fact you can easily make one yourself.  Might make repairing TPMS modules simpler if you had an exact-fit battery.
Click to expand...

I'm doing several sets a month. I looked at spot welder and saw some instructions on building them, but it is so easy to just bend these tabs to fit, that I don't think it is worth messing around with trying to make my own, it would be more trouble than it is worth.
 
Fred
When I researched the TPS batteries offered by Digikey, they list 2 types, a surface mount type that appears that you and most others have used, and a vertical mount version with the pin type leads shown in your pictures.  Our Northeast AAD Brian Felice, has been using the vertical mount batteries under P/n (CR-2032/VCN) for quite some time and highly recommends this version because the lead configuration is easier to work with.
 

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Flat-spot said:
jwh20,  are you talking about cold soldering?  I hear hot soldering to batteries is not a good thing and I'm curious about the cold version.
Not that I would actually do it since I have enough 668's for the next 20 years. :eek:
Click to expand...

No, soldering takes too long and the heat cooks the battery.  These tabs are spot-welded into place.  Here is a video of it being done with a home-made welder:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLQPeunfoa4
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
jwh20 said:
Fred, how many of these do you replace a month?  You know the equipment and supplies needed to spot-weld tabs onto the terminals of batteries is pretty inexpensive.  In fact you can easily make one yourself.  Might make repairing TPMS modules simpler if you had an exact-fit battery.
Click to expand...

I'm doing several sets a month. I looked at spot welder and saw some instructions on building them, but it is so easy to just bend these tabs to fit, that I don't think it is worth messing around with trying to make my own, it would be more trouble than it is worth.
Click to expand...

Yes probably not worth it at that level.
 
I recently replaced the battery for tps on my rear wheel and did it a little differently than you guys did. Not that what has been done before wasn't great because it is, and was well done and am sure works well. My solution was to remove the spot welded tab on the battery and not mess with soldering or ordering batteries with tabs or spot welding tabs to new battery either. Perhaps my method will fail on down the road, but hasn't yet in 1500 miles at this writing. Note: this is for those with a "somewhat" removable battery indicated by a shell case that can be separated.

Without pictures this is what I did:
1. Removed TPS from wheel using clamps and on the bike method.
2. Separated TPS and removed board and battery assembly from shell.
3. Using a very small drill bit (#50-70 or 1/16" or smaller "fractional" equivalent) drill slightly into spot welds (holding tabs) on battery, (gently pull on tab till separates from battery) (razor blade helps, get it between tab and battery) wouldn't advise drilling all the way through battery.
4. Once both tabs are free from battery, bend tabs so they will hold pressure to battery (when shell is closed around it). Tabs appear to be stainless and should hold that shape (like a spring) for a long time.
5.  Install new 2032 battery purchased at walgreens/home depot/ or wherever you buy batteries. and place between bent tabs and reinstall in shell. Battery is retained in recess, could be RTV'd in to better secure but don't get any between tabs and battery. I didn't use any rtv.
6. reinstall TPS in wheel and reinflate tire.
7. check to see if works.

As I said, I have had no problems, works fine so far. Now in the future if the battery needs to be replaced just pull tps out and replace the battery like you would for a flashlight or remote control. Maybe next time I do this will take pictures.
 
Jetmech is my neighbor and we have been talking about this for a while. I also just changed tires and converted my TPS battery setup to standard 2032's. Shot video of the whole thing and hope to have it on my YT channel in a week or so.

Pat
 
What year did they change to the potted type sensor?  I'm looking at a 2012 but know the new sensors are not serviceable.  If I can I'd like to keep the old types.
 
jerbear,
The new sensors were phased near the end of 2013.  I have a '12 that had sensors replaced twice. The last time was the new style which require a new nut to hold them to the rim as well.  These are the "potted" ones you are trying to avoid.
the '12 and '13 models still have the "old" style sensors.
Matt
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
kawcon14rider said:
Check this site out less for batteries and shipping. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Battery/CR2032/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEV04R3uo8Ft7CIhv2OyhLbn6MKq1Bh%252bU%3d
;)
Click to expand...

The tabs on those are going to be more difficult to use. Here is a link to the ones from Digikey in the photo I posted.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&keywords=P660-ND
Click to expand...

I just bought a set of these to be ready for the next tire change when I'll replace the batteries. 
 
I have a 2014. Are you saying the batteries can not be replaced in mine?
Also, how often do the batteries need to be replaced?
I changed a tire recently and completely forgot about the need to change batteries.  :-[

Ride safe, Ted


 
connie_rider said:
I have a 2014. Are you saying the batteries can not be replaced in mine?
Also, how often do the batteries need to be replaced?
I changed a tire recently and completely forgot about the need to change batteries.  :-[

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Someone else will chime in, but I don't believe the batteries can be changed on the newer models, but are suppose to last much longer. Mine is an 09 and "low battery" is flashing on both the front and rear...
 
connie_rider said:
I have a 2014. Are you saying the batteries can not be replaced in mine?
Also, how often do the batteries need to be replaced?
I changed a tire recently and completely forgot about the need to change batteries.  :-[

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...


Thats what appears to be going on yep.


KAW really dropped the ball on this and everyone should be making more noise about it.


https://www.kawasaki.com/Contact/Online






Personally I will NOT repair/replace/fix these units when the batteries die on my 2015.  I will simply not have working TPMS. I've never had it before and I did just fine in my many years of motorcycling.
 
Batteries are not "replaceable". When they go dead you get a flashing warning that doesn't go away obscuring  the outside air temp, mielage, range, etc. Can be disabled but the red warning light comes on solid - very distracting at night. And you will have to disable the warning every time you start the bike. Myself I haven't had much luck actually disabling the warning, it must require just the right button push combination.

I have replaced a battery recently with the tabbed CR2032 successfully. I soldered mine, I wouldn't have any faith in a pressure contact due the the rotational forces.
 
TPMS transmitters seem to be one of the biggest rip-off's in the transportation world today.  Cars, motorcycles, they all have TPMS required by your favorite government, and hardly any have replaceable batteries.  Manufacturer's attitude seems to be "It's not our fault or problem, the batteries will make it through the first owner, and after that Who Cares".  They predict "long life", but so far most run out of batteries way too soon.

They likely cost about 15-20$ to make, and since they're vehicle specific, there isn't enough competition to drive the prices down to anything approaching reasonable.

Apologize for the rant, but I just had to replace all four in my car, so I'm just a bit touchy about the subject! :mad: :mad: 
 
Bob H said:
TPMS transmitters seem to be one of the biggest rip-off's in the transportation world today.  Cars, motorcycles, they all have TPMS required by your favorite government, and hardly any have replaceable batteries.  Manufacturer's attitude seems to be "It's not our fault or problem, the batteries will make it through the first owner, and after that Who Cares".  They predict "long life", but so far most run out of batteries way too soon.

They likely cost about 15-20$ to make, and since they're vehicle specific, there isn't enough competition to drive the prices down to anything approaching reasonable.

Apologize for the rant, but I just had to replace all four in my car, so I'm just a bit touchy about the subject! :mad: :mad:
Click to expand...


Yup.  It's all a crock of %$#hit. And makes my vehicle cost more for something I don't want.


People just ignore the light on the dash.


But at the same time, bike makers shouldnt make things unserviceable.
 
My car sensor batts are over 10 years old, and still working fine. They cost $35 each to replace the sensors, but there are four.

My C14 batts were toast after 4 years, and are much more expensive to replace, unless I take it upon myself to re-solder in new batteries, which is what I am trying to do.
 
CW said:
My car sensor batts are over 10 years old, and still working fine. They cost $35 each to replace the sensors, but there are four.

My C14 batts were toast after 4 years, and are much more expensive to replace, unless I take it upon myself to re-solder in new batteries, which is what I am trying to do.
Click to expand...




It's really an injustice upon the consumer.


I will not spend my time and money to replace a sensor I dont really need unless it becomes an error that interferes with normal operation of the display.
 
CW said:
My car sensor batts are over 10 years old, and still working fine. They cost $35 each to replace the sensors, but there are four.
.....................................
Click to expand...

My Nissan Xterra TPMS cost $180 each. And I can't find an independent shop that can replace them. I wish I could replace mine for $35 each.
 
Shoe said:
CW said:
My car sensor batts are over 10 years old, and still working fine. They cost $35 each to replace the sensors, but there are four.
.....................................
Click to expand...

My Nissan Xterra TPMS cost $180 each. And I can't find an independent shop that can replace them. I wish I could replace mine for $35 each.
Click to expand...


Just be glad the fools that run your state legislature dont make it an INSPECTION requirement.
 
Thanks Fred. Great information!

Unfortunately, mine has the newer sensors.
I've seen several times that the battery in the new style can't be replaced. (because of the potting)

Dumb question, but is "can't be replaced" absolute?

Thinking that one of these day an old sensor could be cut apart (to find where the battery is) and "maybe" they could be repaired?

Ride safe, Ted



 
connie_rider said:
Thanks Fred. Great information!

Unfortunately, mine has the newer sensors.
I've seen several times that the battery in the new style can't be replaced. (because of the potting)

Dumb question, but is "can't be replaced" absolute?

Thinking that one of these day an old sensor could be cut apart (to find where the battery is) and "maybe" they could be repaired?

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

It may be possible. I haven't gotten my hands on one yet to try.
 
It may be possible. I haven't gotten my hands on one yet to try.  Fred

Hmmm, that gives me a brilliant idea.  :dance:
  I'll spread the word.

If anyone has replaced the new style sensor, (and still has the old one) send it to Fred so he can operate on it!!!
    I'll pay the postage!

Ride safe, Ted
 
That ^^^ brings up a good question.

When the dealer replaces a newer style TPMS do they just throw them away?
Send them back to Kawasaki?  Then Kawa replaces the batteres somehow and then sends
them back to the dealer to sell as new or a replacement for warranty work?

After all how many customers SEE the new (replacement) sensors
actually put back on the wheel?  Most dealers won't let customers in the service area claiming insurance won't
cover them if something happened, so they don't allow it, to save there butts - which I believe is  :ecomcity:

Seems a waste to throw away the new style ones when they go dead. 

NOW the chance of anyone having a dead new style one in their possession seem unlikely as I would assume that the dealer
holds on to the dead one or sends it back.  The customer is unlikely to receive it - especially if covered under warranty.  Only
if they paid for it out of their own pocket could I see them demanding it back.  Since the new sensors are in the 2013's and up and supposed to last
longer - I doubt there would be many around that have been replaced - especially NOT under warranty.  JMO
 
SilverConnieRider said:
That ^^^ brings up a good question.

When the dealer replaces a newer style TPMS do they just throw them away?
Send them back to Kawasaki?  Then Kawa replaces the batteres somehow and then sends
them back to the dealer to sell as new or a replacement for warranty work?

After all how many customers SEE the new (replacement) sensors
actually put back on the wheel?  Most dealers won't let customers in the service area claiming insurance won't
cover them if something happened, so they don't allow it, to save there butts - which I believe is  :ecomcity:

Seems a waste to throw away the new style ones when they go dead. 

NOW the chance of anyone having a dead new style one in their possession seem unlikely as I would assume that the dealer
holds on to the dead one or sends it back.  The customer is unlikely to receive it - especially if covered under warranty.  Only
if they paid for it out of their own pocket could I see them demanding it back.  Since the new sensors are in the 2013's and up and supposed to last
longer - I doubt there would be many around that have been replaced - especially NOT under warranty.  JMO
Click to expand...

Dealer told me that I could not have them.  Had to be turned into kaw.  Intimated they had til be turned in to be destroyed
 
freebird6 said:
Dealer told me that I could not have them.  Had to be turned into kaw.  Intimated they had til be turned in to be destroyed
Click to expand...

I believe that's against the law....

They're your parts, working or not.
 
Russ said:
freebird6 said:
Dealer told me that I could not have them.  Had to be turned into kaw.  Intimated they had til be turned in to be destroyed
Click to expand...

I believe that's against the law....

They're your parts, working or not.
Click to expand...

I doubt that's true when the parts are replaced under warranty.
 
Yes, it's the same with all dealerships, Ford/Chevy/Kawasaki/etc.
The dealerships do the repair under (Company) warranty.
They then send in parts and a bill to the Company for compensation.

Ride safe, Ted
 
SilverConnieRider said:
Russ said:
freebird6 said:
Dealer told me that I could not have them.  Had to be turned into kaw.  Intimated they had til be turned in to be destroyed
Click to expand...

I believe that's against the law....

They're your parts, working or not.
Click to expand...

I doubt that's true when the parts are replaced under warranty.
Click to expand...

Since the picture in his profile is an 08 or 09, I assumed it was out of warranty - you are correct, if under warranty then they dont have to give them to you.
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
Mikes14 said:
Bringing back an old post....Has anyone done this mod? Seems a bit easier than having to desolder/resolder batteries every few years:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=857GC7M4sOE

Mike
Click to expand...

The additional height of the sensor with that battery holder on it is most likely going to result in the sensor getting damaged during tire removal and installation.
Click to expand...
Can I ask where you got holders? All I have seen are for 2 batteries.
 
My dealer reports that the new TPMS transponders are better than the previous ones. I will replace me when I find a spare $500.
 
Mike14

Saw your post (video) of your TPMS battery replacement.

Did not see a follow-up.

How did it work out for you?
 
When I changed my batteries, I did not follow that youtube video and simply removed the sensors, desoldered the wires and soldered the new batteries in. I sold the bike in September of 2018 and they were working fine.

Good luck.
 
Michael said:
My dealer reports that the new TPMS transponders are better than the previous ones. I will replace me when I find a spare $500.
Click to expand...


Your dealer is full of it. PM in bound . Don't forget the cost of installing the new sensors to the computer. They won't read till they are paired to the computer.
 
So....I did exactly as Fred recommended.
SUCCESS!!!
I used the string-spin method and the Connie showed Low Pressure error!
Last weekend I used the BIG CLAMP method of re-installing the TPMS' and upon the first test ride, MORE SUCCESS!!

The collective knowledge you all possess and choose to share is very much appreciated!!!!

:)
 
I replaced my batteries recently, no longer have the low battery warning, but not getting any reading from the sensors either, just 3 dots on each readout. Not too concerned as i mostly wanted to address the annoying warning, but it was kind of a pain in the ass to not have them work. The front one was reading fairly accurately before it died completely previous to the battery change. Any input is appreciated.
 
I now have two 08 vintage sensors that do --- with fresh batteries. I believe the rotation detector switch (blanking on the correct term) can fail after many miles, just wears out.  If you have a newer bike with low mileage (less than 50,000) I'd guess you may have botched the solder jobs. 
 
Mines an 09, the battery warning is gone, just no air pressure reading. Nbd, just curious why they don't work. Thanks for the reply.
 
My two cents.....

I had CONSTANT low battery warnings before I removed the sensors at the tire change early this year.  Then it was the "---" and no warning once they were out.
When I changed the batteries and did that string-spinny thing I got a LOW PRESSURE warning.  When I put the sensors back into the wheels it took ABOUT 1 mile for the pressure to display.

If I had to guess, I would think the (new) battery wasn't so new OR was soldered in backwards. 

If so, bummer....but an easy/inexpensive fix.

Good luck!

j.m. :)
 
This may be common knowledge but - when the TPMS battery warning shows, press/hold the top display button then press/release the bottom display button.  You get a red warning light but a complete display and no flashing.  Once the tire warms up, the warning goes away (if its just a weak battery and cold weather); otherwise the red warning light will last till you turn off the bike. REPEAT AS NECESSARY TO MAINTAIN SANITY!

BTW - I took "opened up" TPMS to Batteries Plus and they removed old battery and cold soldered (regular solder heat will kill a battery) in new battery.
 
HeavyRotation said:
I replaced my batteries recently, no longer have the low battery warning, but not getting any reading from the sensors either, just 3 dots on each readout. Not too concerned as i mostly wanted to address the annoying warning, but it was kind of a pain in the a** to not have them work. The front one was reading fairly accurately before it died completely previous to the battery change. Any input is appreciated.
Click to expand...

  No reading means you either got the batteries backwards ,completely dead batteries , or solder connections came apart.
 
In replacing mine on the 2010 I dropped the battery in backwards at first.  It was like that for a second maybe two.  Battery was dead. :(  Had to get a new one and be mo careful.
 
I've found it's very easy to short circuit the battery when soldering.  Always check the volts after soldering.
 
Have done rear and now it's time for front. Had to pay a lot for shipping so I just ordered 4 of these and I will replace one and keep a spare. Point is I'll have 2 extras and willing to give to someone that really could use them now. Won't need them and know they will go bad if not used. Send PM and I can mail them.
 
Randy said:
Have done rear and now it's time for front. Had to pay a lot for shipping so I just ordered 4 of these and I will replace one and keep a spare. Point is I'll have 2 extras and willing to give to someone that really could use them now. Won't need them and know they will go bad if not used. Send PM and I can mail them.
Click to expand...

I'll bite..  Gonna PM ya.
 
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