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Brake Brackets for 2003 Connie. Anyone interested??

C

connie_rider

Member
Member
I'm working on developing Brackets to install 4 Pot Tokico Brake Calipers on my 2003 Connie.
If I succeed in the project, I could build additional brackets.
My question is: would anyone be interested if I made extra Brackets?

I talked with 2 fast and others that have built brackets and installed newer calipers. "All" feel the braking is far better than stock.


Background:
The Calipers I purchased came off of a ZZR 1200. (Cost me $60)
  The same calipers can be purchased off of multiple Motorcycles, including some GSXR's  ZZR's, ZX's, ond possibly some Hondas?
    I will (eventually) compile a complete list of calipers that will fit the new brackets...

I'm building my brackets to work with stock (300 MM) Rotors. (95 and newer C-10's)
  This will give me better braking without the additinal cost of purchasing 320 MM Rotors.
    I talked to others that have added the 4 pot calipers and they suggested that I use stock 300 MM Rotors.
    They admit that the 320 MM Rotors are slightly better than 30 MM Rotors, but the biggest improvement was the caliper instalation, not the addition of 320 rotors.
    And, (Most importantly) using 300 MM Rotors saves about $100-$300 on the project.

My brackets are a bit different than others I've seen on the Forums.
    They will be made of Alumium instead of steel.
    I will build 4 lighter/aluminum brackets rather than the standard 2 steel brackets.
    Brackets will be anodized (probably blue or gold anodize).
    To ensure the bolt threads in the aluminum brackets, I will use steel thread inserts.
    Calipers will not require Mill work to fit the brackets.

I do NOT have a final cost for the brackets, as the cost of building them is dependant on how many I have Machined and Anodized..
My best guess is $75 - $100 per Connie.

Total project cost for someone to install the (Tokico) Calipers on their Connie would be the cost of the brackets and the cost of the Used calipers they buy elsewhere...

Brackets will include the bolts to do the installation.
Should be a Bolt-On Project.....

Is anyone interested??  :confuse:

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yup, I'll try them.  PM me or whatever, I'd love to try a set.  Seriously.  :great:

I have no idea what these will look like, but will aluminum hold up to the heat?
 
Easy13,
Aluminum is definitely up to the task since your calipers are made from it! and your forks, and your engine cases, etc etc etc.
Matt
 
Anyone know if switching to the 4 pot setup eliminates the connie front brake 'mush' ??
 
mattchewn said:
Easy13,
Aluminum is definitely up to the task since your calipers are made from it! and your forks, and your engine cases, etc etc etc.
Matt
Click to expand...
  You're absolutely right, I wasn't thinking it through.  :-[  I'm good.
 
Anyone know if switching to the 4 pot setup eliminates the connie front brake 'mush' ??
Click to expand...

YES. It did for me anyway. Nice and firm brake lever even with stock brake lines.

Close to the best upgrade I've done for my bike.
 
Easy13, the brackets I'm working on will visually "look" the same as the ones that Gitbox posted.
Except: the brackets he posted are 1 bracket per caliper, that 1 bracket is mounted outboard of the calipers, and it is made of 1/4" steel.
          "If" I can figure this out:  the brackets I build will be 2 brackets per caliper, 1 bracket (3/8") will be mounted inboard of the Caliper, and 1 bracket (1/8") will be mounted outboard of the Caliper. The brackets will be made from aluminum that I plan to Anodize.

I'm being completely honest here......
1: I'm not sure I will work this out. At this time, (I'm close)... I've machined a set that wasn't exactly the right fit.
    (If I can get time to do it),,,, In the next week or so I hope to machine another set to confirm the fit.
    After that I would need to arrange anodizing, order parts machined, install inserts,,,, etc..... "This will not happen soon"....
2: The ones he posted "do" work fine. Not sure mine will be any better. I just wanted to try a different design, that I hope will be better.
3: The ones he posted might be using 320 mm Rotors?
4:  I've been tinkering with this for some time and I'm not rushing to get it done. Just a project I've wanted to build.....
5: This discussion was started to see if anyone was interested (if I make some extra's). And to see if anyone knows why my idea won't work or knows of a better way. Gitbox, your  note is appreciated. That design is one I looked at prior to starting this design....

Ride safe, Ted
 
Mortech said:
Anyone know if switching to the 4 pot setup eliminates the connie front brake 'mush' ??
Click to expand...
Short answer- NO. Most of your 'mush' is from the stock rubber brake lines. Most of us who wished to have better brakes already changed those out for Stainless Steel  lines  or 'SS' lines for short. Murph sells nice premade kits ready to go for you. I would consider changing those hoses (lines)  at the same time as when your  adding the  4-pots.
If you look at the  Kawasaki service manual it does say your supposed to change those rubber hoses every 4 years anyway. I do not know of anyone who as ever done that. Once you install SS lines those are good for life so it is a 'no brainer'.
 
Ted, I'm in no hurry here whatsoever; this'll be a real nice improvement, but it aint like the bike doesn't stop now.  Let us know how it's going and if there's anything I can do to help.

And Daytona Mike is right: when I went to a Speigler 2-line system for the front brake, the feel is a good bit firmer than the OEM.
 
Ted, is there any chance that these could be designed to be used with 300mm OR 320mm rotors? Something like two sets of either fork mounting holes or caliper mounting holes?

If it can be done without compromising the integrity of the adaptors, it would give owners the option of going with the 320s (or upgrading to them at some point in the future).

Just curious.

Dan
 
Dan,,,,, Now ya done it!  :-\
You've got me setting here, thinking... Turning the brackets in my hand,  smoke comin' out my ears....

Initial thought is; the brackets are countoured to fit tightly around the profile of the caliper.
So on the "Caliper side", I don't think there is a way to include a second set of holes (for use with 320 mm rotors).

But it "may" be possible to add a second set of (320 mm) holes on the "fork side" of the brackets.
The (320 mm) holes would be 10 mm from the (300 mm) holes, and must be at some (?) angle that would move the caliper up "and" out...
(There would be a tiny web between the 2 holes (300 and 320 MM),,  so it should be strong enough...)

May be Do-able, I (might) be able to calculate it as everything works from the Centerline of the axle, but NOTHING is square to that centerline...

OOPS/edit,,,, I think the 320 Rotors have a different offset...
(If the 320 mm rotor  has a different offset,  a 2 piece bracket design would be easier).

Bottom line, I'd need some 320 mm rotors to work it out.

Let me figure this (300 mm) out first, and I'll see if it's possible to add (320 mm) holes.

NOTE: I tend to over-Engineer everything.
I took (lots of) careful measurments, did sketches, layouts, and finished drawings, machined prototypes, etc,,,, and I still haven't finished.
Another Low Life Individual,,,, whose name I won't mention did the EZ method.
Jim S. The err EZ Guy used plexiglass, sawed and drilled holes until he had it right,,, used the plexiglass as a pattern,,,, and built his brackets...
I hate him!  :mad:

Brilliant idea: I'll ask Jim err, the EZ Guy.
"Jim" err EZ Guy,,, is it possible to make brackets with 300 and 320 mm holes,,,,,, like Dan suggested???

Ride safe, Ted
 
Ted, what comes to mind to get dual usage is to have oblong inserts in the brackets at the fork mounting holes.  The insert would have an off center hole to place the bracket in two different locations depending on which way the insert is oriented, and the bracket would have slotted holes to accommodate both positions.  The insert could be "held captive" by the bracket when it is bolted to the fork tabs.  The mounting bolts are 10 mm, so offsetting the bracket 10 mm with two different sets of holes may cause packaging issues.

Another way to get dual usage is to abandon the idea of using the conventional type caliper and make a bracket to use radial mount calipers.  That way using larger calipers would just be a matter of installing a spacer shim under the caliper mounting holes.

Just a couple of ideas to turn your gears.  ;)
 
I have 320mm rotors with stock calipers on my '01, using a kit form Murphs. They were on the bike when I got it, so I don't have a comparison to stock.

I've thought about upgrading to 4-pots, making my own bracket. But if you can make these at a reasonable price, and they can fit the 320's, I just might be interested. Not so much if it means I also would have to go buy 300mm rotors as well.

Pretty sure my 320's have the same offset, as the Murph's brackets look just like the originals I've seen. Couldn't say for certain, though.
 
Gary, your right.
The 10 mm change in Caliper location (using 10 mm bolts) would definitely be a problem.
I think I understand the oblong insert idea. 
  (Removable oblong insert with 1 threaded hole 10 mm off-center. Rotate oblong insert 180* to adjust for 300 or 320 rotors?)
  If I don't have it right, Send me a sketch if you get a chance.

I'd have to do a LOT of thinking about the radial Design Calipers. Not exactly sure which caliper your thinking of. I assume your talking about a caliper like one on a Hyabusa? If so, not sure how to make those fit C-10 Forks?
Maybe a 90* Bracket with 2 threaded holes (at 90*) for the calipers, and 2 offset holes to fit the fork Tabs?

Dan/Willy P (or anyone with 300 and 320 mm rotors), try to measure the offset on the 2 rotors and see if they are the same....

For now I plan to finish my 300 mm set up. (I already have $300+ in Calipers/material/Insert tools and I'm close to finishing)
Once I have the 300 mm brackets figured out, it should be relatively easy to work it out hole locations for 320 mm Rotors.
And then, I could work out something that would work with either Rotor...
 
I think the oblong insert idea was based on it being a plain hole, not threaded. A threaded oblong would have nothing to hold the bracket onto it. Unless there were another piece added to trap the oblong piece. I think that would be unnecessarily complex to make, if four threaded holes would work.

Personally I think it would be easier to have two templates, and just make the different bracket, depending on whether someone would order for a 300 or 320.
 
Ted, I'm 90% sure that the 300's and 320's have the same offset, but I can measure my 320's this weekend and you can compare them.  I don't have any 300 mm rotors anymore to compare.

I forgot you were using a threaded hole on the inside plate, so I agree with Willy that the oblong insert would probably be too complicated for your design, and I don't think you have enough room between the fork tab and rotor.  It might work for a bracket mounted on the outside similar to ones made by zrxmopar and SVracingparts.

The radial calipers I was referring to are like the C14 uses, and your description of a bracket for them is spot on.  I remember seeing them for the ZRX on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZRX1200-GSX1300R-ZX7R-ZX9R-Beringer-Brembo-Calipers-Bracket-Adapter-Hanger-100mm-/321244156145?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acba4d0f1&vxp=mtr

The brackets shown are for Brembo radial calipers, and the ZRX caliper mounting tabs are completely different than the C10, but it would be the same idea.
 
Thanks WillyP
We agree that different brackets for diffent rotors would be easier.

His idea was Primarily, for discussion... Stir thinking..
If we could figure out a bracket that works for those that start with 300 mm Rotors and later change to 320's.
Would save $$ if 1 bracket could do both....

The problem with 2 holes (side by side) is the hole diameters are 10 mm, and the distance between the holes is 10mm.
So the sides of the holes would be touching...
Plus; The O.D. of the threaded inserts I plan to use are approx 11 mm (bigger than 10 mm),  so 2 threaded inserts could not be installed..

Trying to find a solution, he thought of using an oblong insert.
I think I figured out how to build the oblong insert (with 1 threaded hole or with 1 thd. insert installed).
and again,,, You are correct, difficult to do, but possible.
The oblong insert would need to be built with a step on the OD and the hole would have a matching step.... arghhhhhhhh

keep the comments coming. I do like the discussion!!

Ride safe, Ted

 
Please don't flame me, but can I politely ask why we are reinventing the wheel? The adapters exist already for the calipers mentioned in the OP.
 
Not a problem. You have a good point.  :great:
Bottom line; I just like to build things...
In this case, I wanted 4 pot calipers with double (aluminum) brackets on each caliper.
I think they'll be stronger/lighter.
  (The ones that are available; only have 1 (steel) bracket per caliper), and I didn't particularly like what I saw...
So, I decided to build some for me (to see if I could do it).

Then I thought (if it works out) others might want a set.... so I posted the question.

Plus, it's interesting to discuss others idea's about a project; including "why are we reinventing the wheel"?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Gitbox said:
Please don't flame me, but can I politely ask why we are reinventing the wheel? The adapters exist already for the calipers mentioned in the OP.
Click to expand...

No fear of flaming necessary, it's a reasonable question, and one I've asked Ted myself  :)  Ted really likes to tinker, and he thinks he can make something better for his bike that he can offer to the rest of us.  Even though the SVracing brackets work, they weren't really designed for this bike, so it would be cool if someone in the C10 community came up with another alternative that we could support.  :great:  Back when I suggested the SVracing brackets could work on the C10, there were no brackets available.  Now we may have more than one option.  Choice is usually a good thing  :beerchug:
 
connie_rider said:
Another Low Life Individual,,,, whose name I won't mention did the EZ method.
Jim S. The err EZ Guy used plexiglass, sawed and drilled holes until he had it right,,, used the plexiglass as a pattern,,,, and built his brackets...
I hate him!  :mad:

Brilliant idea: I'll ask Jim err, the EZ Guy.
"Jim" err EZ Guy,,, is it possible to make brackets with 300 and 320 mm holes,,,,,, like Dan suggested???

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Ok, EZ Guy here (aka Jim Snyder) and off course its possible Ted. If there is 10 mm spacing between the 300 and the 320 holes that sounds doable. Since I have a set of each size I will look at this next time I'm in the shop.
And now to throw a giant monkey wrench in the gears !!! The ultimate idea would be slotted holes that could be moved to accommadate either rotor size. You would need one set of standard holes to bolt up to the fork side, and the slotted holes to mount the caliper. If the holes were precise, all the way in would be for 300 rotors and all the way out would be for 320. Cool idea huh ? I can see your brain smoking now !!
I also like GF's idea of the radial mount calipers and using shims to move them out. A simple bracket could be made to bolt to the forks and use radial mount calipers. Gee now your brain will really be smokin'.
 
Ted,

I'm definitely interested. Considered the SV brackets, but like already mentioned, you have to do some adapting to get the adapters on the C10.

FYI, I also thinks I have a set of 320mm rotor's on the shelf? I can get'em (or one for fabricating purposes?) to ya, take some measurement's, whatever can help, if you wanted to tinker with those. I'll measure them tonight, make sure they are 320's. Priority I'm more interested in is the 4 pot conversion, upping to a 320 is secondary.
 
I think the problem with slotted holes on the caliper end has been mentioned, that the lugs for the caliper are so close to the caliper that there isn't room to slide the caliper in, for the 300, on a bracket long enough for the 320. I'd also be concerned about the caliper moving outward when installed with the 300. However, the solution to that would be that you don't need a slot, if the holes are not threaded, then touching holes might be ok. I think even like that there would be enough meat between the holes to hold the bolt in the right place. And it saves a machining step.

Of course, that is all moot if there isn't room at the caliper.
 
Bottom line; I just like to build things...
Click to expand...

I can relate to that.  :great:

All the DL650 adapters need is 9 mm spacers. The thread I referred to uses 6 washers which work fine, but I felt the need to machine nice solid steel spacers. Might as well use the lathe for something.
 

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"All",,,, Thanks for the replies.
After thinking about it, I don't think I can make my design work for both 300 and 320 mm rotors.
Reason is; My plan is to install both an inboard and an outboard bracket on each caliper in an effort to make the brackets lighter/stronger..
              The inboard bracket is "VERY" close to everything, and has to be threaded...
So,, (on the inboard bracket) the Caliper Body and Fork Tubes are too near the mounting tabs to allow the extra material.

However, a 2 bracket set up would probably work if you did as Jim S. the EZ Guy suggests. (Add a second set of (caliper) holes to the mounting Brackets).   
This would work because the bracket is not near the caliper, and it uses round spacers.

NOTE: Jim S. "the EZ Guy" will probably go out in his shed, (use a hammer, chisel, and a couple of rusty files) to build a 4 bracket set tonight that works.
He'll do this, because the words "Can't work" drives him into a frenzy!!
        But that's my thinkin' and I'm stickin' to it!

Vic/JIm s errr EZ Guy, if you have a 300 and a 320 Rotor (that is not on a bike),,,, lay them on a flat surface and measure the offset to see if they are the same...

Ride safe, Ted
 
  I assembled the first brackets on the bike yesterday. (Made on a 3D Printer)
  I used stacked washers for the spacers. (actual Spacers will be machined aluminum)
      I attached the photo's so that ya'll can see what I'm thinking,,,,,,  (hope this works)

First photo shows the Outboard and Inboard brackets on my right Fork Tabs without the Caliper.
Other photo's show the Caliper/brackets mounted on the bike from various angles....
Blow them up and look closely....

NOTE:
On this attempt, you can see that (the back side of the ) Inboard bracket is close to the Rotor and Very Close to the Rotor bushings.
Did a rough gage of it and it's approx 1/16 inch from the Rotor Bushings. The real brackets will have a bit more clearance.

Whut do you think?

Ride safe, Ted
 

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Looks neat!

Did you drill out the threaded holes on the caliper to get the bolt to pass through?
 
Gitbox said:
Did you drill out the threaded holes on the caliper to get the bolt to pass through?
Click to expand...

Yes, the 8 MM Threaded hole in the caliper is drilled out to .316" ("O" drill) so that I can screw the bolts into the Inboard Bracket.
  The (thick) Inboard Bracket will have 2 ea - 8 mm, and 2 ea - 10 mm Thread inserts installed. (to assure thread strength)
  Thickness of the Inboard bracket will be reduced from 3/8" to approx. .350".

  Thickness of the (Thin) Outboard Bracket will be .125".
  Spacers will be made of (approx) 5/8" Dia machined Aluminum.

Inboard bracket will handle most of the Load.
Outboard bracket is added for stability.

Thoughts?

Ride safe, Ted
 
OK, so you're using the two piece bracket for added strength and stability? I was wondering why two pieces rather than a single one like ZRXMopar did with his brackets. Clever!
 
Nice. I think the rear bracket alone looks strong enough. The front bracket might be overkill, but better overkill than underkill.  ;)
 
Yes, I was "very" fortunate to get access to a 3D Printer.
After I made the pieces, I discovered they didn't (exactly) fit the fork/caliper.
It turned out; that, on this printer, the hot plastic shrinks as it cools. (resulting in undersized parts)
Luckily, I was able to assemble the brackets on the bike, but the plastic parts in the picture are actually stretched a bit...
When I get time, I still have to machine a set of the parts; to ensure fit.

NOTE:
The inboard bracket might be strong enough, but it's aluminum, not steel. So it's (lighter) but not as strong as it looks...
I added the outboard bracket, which will give me the extra strength, stability, and safety.
"and" I think it looks better.  ;)

Ride safe, Ted
 
The original brackets are aluminum, and a whole lot less meaty. But I agree, I like the two brackets too.
 
I finally got some time and machined the inboard brackets (to check that my hole locations were correct).
I also installed the threaded inserts, and drilled the caliper holes.
All looked good so I mounted the inboard bracket and 1 caliper on the left side of my bike.
Hole locations finally seem to be prefect!!
yahoo

NOTE: The inboard bracket is a little too close to the rotor for my liking., so I will reduce the thickness when I do the  finished run.
But that shouldn't be a problem.

Next step is to machine outboard brackets and do a full install.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Outboard brackets machined and checked for fit.
Everything looks great.

Hopefully I can install the thread inserts tomorrow and finally bolt everything to the bike.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Nice Work Ted.  :great:

Think you can have them black anodized? I don't know many blingy connie riders  :D  Steve
Click to expand...

Hey, hey, wait a minute, I was sorta partial to the blue ones myself. And I'm sure they may be some love for red and pink also. Just sayin'.
 
I hadn't thought about black anodize.
Was leaning towards blue, or Gold, (or mebbe) silver anodize.
Give it a little, but not a lot of bling.  (Worked too hard on this, that it not be noticable..)
Others, do ya have a color preference??  (Guesss I'll hafta build Jim a Pink set)...

Had a change of plan. Decided to put the inner brackets back in the Mill and remove some material. The inner brackets are too close to the Rotor bushings for my taste... We'll try to do that tomorrow.

More later, Ride safe, Ted
 
This week, I:
Milled .030" from the Inboard Brackets to improve clearance. (this gives me .100" Clearance from the rotating parts)
Installed S/S (8 and 10 mm) Thread Inserts.
Milled Inserts to exact length.
Machined Spacers. (5/8" Dia x .630")
Bead blasted all brackets and Spacers.
Weighed assemblies (Each Caliper assy with Brackets and Bolts weighs 2 3/4 Lbs) Will weigh original Calipers later to compare.
Temporarily installed and checked fit..
All looks good....
Located and will soon order (Zinc Coated/Blue Tinted) Grade 8, Socket Head Cap Screws.

If time permits, I'll try to clearcoat the Prototype Brackets and do a final install this weekend.

Ride safe, Ted

 
New calipers installed.
WOW!!!

Unfortunately my running/dash/brakelights decided not to work and then it started to rain..
Will do a more complete test ride after I sort out the lighting problem. grrrrrrrrrrrr

Any suggestions on why all these lights suddenly decided not to work?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Before I did the installation I weighted the assembly.  (4 piston Calipers/brackets/hardware)
Today I weighed the stock set up. (2 piston Calipers/brackets/hardware)

My hope was that the aluminum brackets would help keep the weight down..
Turns out that the new assembly is slightly "lighter" than the stock setup! 
yahooo

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yes.
I didn't trust putting threads in the Aluminum Brackets and wanted something strong.
Preferred Stainless Steel. Plus, I didn't like Heli Coils....
I liked the looks of the Time Serts (seemed better).
So, I went with the Time Serts.

NOTE: I installed the thread serts from the back side of my brackets. This puts the flange on the opposite side form the Bolt Force. (Which assures me that the Sert can not be pulled out).

The Time Serts seem to hold very well.

Ride safe, Ted
 
In another discussion we made a List of Calipers/rotors that would fit the 94 and newer Connies.
Posting it here for your info.
All possibilities are not listed as I'm sure that there are other bikes that these calipers/rotors come on.

Will bolt on the 1994-2006 C10 front wheel and can be adapted to forks.

4 Piston Tokico Calipers;
Kawasaki:
  ZX-7            91-95      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZX-9            94-97      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZX-11          93-01      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZZR-1200    02-05        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts
Suzuki:
GSXR 600      00-04        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts
GSXR 750      00-04        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts

320 mm Rotors;
Kawasaki:
  ZX-7              91-03
  ZX-9              94-97
  ZX-11            93-01
  ZZR-1200      02-05
  Mean Streak  02-08

Suzuki:
  VZ1600 Marauder  ??

310 mm Rotors;
ZX 750 H1/H2 (ZX7) 89-90
ZX 9R (ZX 900 E1/E2) 00-01
ZR 1100 A1-A4 Zephyr 92-95
ZR 1100 B1 Zephyr 96
ZX 1100 C1-C4 (ZX11) Ninja 90-93
ZRX 1100/ 1200  any year



Ride safe, Ted
 
If anyone is interested, I found a set of Calipers from a ZZR that look really good. Price is ($25-50) lower than others I saw from ZZR.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-2002-KAWASAKI-ZZR1200-ZZR-1200-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPERS-AND-LINES-/121258002203?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3b8a471b&vxp=mtr

Interesting thing is, the same exact calipers can be found on GSXR and generally speaking, the calipers from GSXR's are priced a bit lower than on ZZR's..

For instance:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-03-GSXR-600-750-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPERS-W-GOOD-EBC-PADS-/261376988660?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdb4855f4&vxp=mtr


The reason I posted these 2 sets are they look particularly clean, prices are better than others I saw, and they use the same bolts (8mm and 10mm) as mine..

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
In another discussion we made a List of Calipers/rotors that would fit the 94 and newer Connies.
Posting it here for your info.
All possibilities are not listed as I'm sure that there are other bikes that these calipers/rotors come on.

Will bolt on the 1994-2006 C10 front wheel and can be adapted to forks.

4 Piston Tokico Calipers;
Kawasaki:
  ZX-7            91-95      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZX-9            94-97      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZX-11          93-01      x4 - 10 mm bolts
  ZZR-1200    02-05        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts
Suzuki:
GSXR 600      00-04        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts
GSXR 750      00-04        x2 - 8 mm & x2 - 10 mm bolts

320 mm Rotors;
Kawasaki:
  ZX-7              91-03
  ZX-9              94-97
  ZX-11            93-01
  ZZR-1200      02-05
  Mean Streak  02-08

Suzuki:
  VZ1600 Marauder  ??

310 mm Rotors;
ZX 750 H1/H2 (ZX7) 89-90
ZX 9R (ZX 900 E1/E2) 00-01
ZR 1100 A1-A4 Zephyr 92-95
ZR 1100 B1 Zephyr 96
ZX 1100 C1-C4 (ZX11) Ninja 90-93
ZRX 1100/ 1200  any year



Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Ted, the calipers and rotors listed above, are DIRECT bolt on, or require an adapter plate??

My last Connie had Tokico brakes but had an offset plate to move them out some. I'm needing new rotors...so while I'm at it.... ;)
 
Hazy, sorry that I had to back out of this project for now. Things at work etc got in the way.
I looked at the caliper you posted. It appears to be the same bolt pattern as the Tokico's that I used on my project.
Should work good for you.
On the add you Listed (*Left side). It appears to be missing brake pads, banjo bolt and the top tension spring.
I assume you bought the matching right caliper. All appears to be there.

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
Hazy, sorry that I had to back out of this project for now. Things at work etc got in the way.
I looked at the caliper you posted. It appears to be the same bolt pattern as the Tokico's that I used on my project.
Should work good for you.
On the add you Listed (*Left side). It appears to be missing brake pads, banjo bolt and the top tension spring.
I assume you bought the matching right caliper. All appears to be there.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...

Yep, bought the right side and hoping everything is there. I like the look of the gold on the brakes so will clean them up and will be good to go. :)
 
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