Checked pads on inspection before Lake George trip and there down to the 1mm thickness ,All worn about the same and at 16000 miles. I got out my trusty Service Manual and it shows and details that you don't have to remove the caliper, just two pins and a spring and out the pads come. Can it be that easy? Never seen that before. Got full set of EBC pads coming this afternoon. Is the manual right on this?
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C-14 brake job
- Thread starter wjinks
- Start date
) and yes, that should be all there is to it. Some of the other folks on here can comment on the details. I havent done mine before so i am unaware of any tricks at this point. Good Luck!Yes, it is that easy. The front calipers have a small, metal cover over them. Remove this, remove the pin, and the pad will slide (or fall) out.
It is easier to spread the pistons apart using the old pads since the new pads will be thicker. I used a tire spoon and was very gentle. Wrap some towels around your master cylinder when you do this. As the pistons slide in, fluid is forced back to the master cylinder. If the mc becomes full, the extra fluid will spray out and get all over your gas tank. Actually, covering all the painted surfaces in the area is a good idea. Saran wrap works well.
It is easier to spread the pistons apart using the old pads since the new pads will be thicker. I used a tire spoon and was very gentle. Wrap some towels around your master cylinder when you do this. As the pistons slide in, fluid is forced back to the master cylinder. If the mc becomes full, the extra fluid will spray out and get all over your gas tank. Actually, covering all the painted surfaces in the area is a good idea. Saran wrap works well.
Be very careful when trying to push the pucks back in. It's very easy to bend the rotor carrier and cause a pulsation in the brakes if you put much pressure on the rotor at all. Personally, I'd rather just unbolt the calipers and remove them from the rotor. Then you can get in there and clean off the surfaces of the pucks with a toothbrush before you push them in, so you don't push dirt and brake dust past the seals of the pucks.
The point about not overflowing the brake cylinder is also a good one. It might be a good idea to remove the brake reservoir lid and suck some out before pushing in the pucks, and then refill with fresh fluid when you get done.
If you do remove the calipers, I think its also a good idea to put some anti-sieze on the threads of the caliper bolts, as they have a tendency to get frozen on from the repeated application of heat of the brakes.
The point about not overflowing the brake cylinder is also a good one. It might be a good idea to remove the brake reservoir lid and suck some out before pushing in the pucks, and then refill with fresh fluid when you get done.
If you do remove the calipers, I think its also a good idea to put some anti-sieze on the threads of the caliper bolts, as they have a tendency to get frozen on from the repeated application of heat of the brakes.
Hi,
Also another reason to remove the calipers is if you are changing pad material, IE going from OEM to say EBC you want to clean the rotors with contact cleaner and a scotch brite pad. Slightly dissimilar materials could cause glazing on the new pads. Ask me how I know!
Later,
Norm
Also another reason to remove the calipers is if you are changing pad material, IE going from OEM to say EBC you want to clean the rotors with contact cleaner and a scotch brite pad. Slightly dissimilar materials could cause glazing on the new pads. Ask me how I know!
Later,
Norm
Yes, the pads come out after the pad retaining pins are removed. You can probably change the brake pads on this bike in a parking lot, in the dark, bent down on one knee.
That said, I always take the calipers off the bike and clean them before pushing the pistons back into the calipers. I believe the grit that is driven under both the dust seal and the piston seal itself is responsible for a lot of leaking calipers after the pads are changed a couple of times. I clean the calipers thoroughly but especially around the pistons where they contact the dust seals (really another set of seals on this bike) before pushing the pistons back. As you know I am not particularly worried about most things that require normal maintainance and this is probably overkill but it does not take too long and it is the only time the calipers are ever clean on my bike anyway.
Brian
That said, I always take the calipers off the bike and clean them before pushing the pistons back into the calipers. I believe the grit that is driven under both the dust seal and the piston seal itself is responsible for a lot of leaking calipers after the pads are changed a couple of times. I clean the calipers thoroughly but especially around the pistons where they contact the dust seals (really another set of seals on this bike) before pushing the pistons back. As you know I am not particularly worried about most things that require normal maintainance and this is probably overkill but it does not take too long and it is the only time the calipers are ever clean on my bike anyway.
Brian
wayne_jenkins_CT said:
I think the way Fred said to do it is better as it also gives you a chance to clean the pistons in the caliper. Think toothbrush. I'm not a fan of brake cleaner as it leaves a film behind despite the description sayign it wont.
If you have access to RO (reverse osmosis) water, it makes a fantastic cleaner.
If you choose to leave the caliper on, don't let your prybar touch the rotor.
If you have access to RO (reverse osmosis) water, it makes a fantastic cleaner.
If you choose to leave the caliper on, don't let your prybar touch the rotor.