• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Clapping sound from my 160k C14 ( It's Been Repaired)!

Motomaniac

Motomaniac

COG Southwest Area Director
Member
Coming home from 4 days of riding in the Sierras in California. On my way home yesterday in the hot lower Sierras my bike was over heating with an occasional FI code showing. I started to hear a moderate clacking sound coming from the engine area. Pulled over with fellow riders. Continued riding after 15 minutes rest and sound got louder. So I stopped and started a couple of more times. Rode in neutral on the downhills and motor cooled down and less noise. Anyway finally it got louder and it started to over heat I immediately pulled over into some shade. My overflow reservoir was boiling and finally the water/anti freeze released out the overflow tube. I took it in to a shop today. I am about 330 miles from home. They will give me an idea of what needs to be repaired. What do you think it is. It sounds serious to me. Luckily fellow member Keith put me up at his home and picked up a trailer at UHaul to move it to the local shop. Connie riders are the best!
 
Possibly a water pump? But that's too easy, and the clacking is a mystery. If it never felt like it was loosing power then I doubt that it's hurt.
 
Going to throw my 10 cents in here and it's really hard to diagnose sounds sitting 18 inches away from a monitor but been around engines so here it goes!
First, let me say Sorry you broke down and awaiting news.

So Your engine was overheating it's likely the cylinder head combustion chamber was glowing red and you experienced pre-ignition meaning as the fuel was sprayed out the Injecter tips and was lighting before the correct crank and spark degrees were pretty common for severe overheat, Hopefully, the tops of the cast pistons and ring lands are still in one piece.

The oil cooler on the Concours is oil-to-water transfer, in my opinion, it's the cheap way out for the OEM on a mass-produced Bike, and Kawasaki is a common setup, unlike Suzuki which uses OIL to air as in a small radiator both have their benefits with the Suzuki not relying on oil to coolant transfer but using God supplied-air!

So the loss of coolant flow through the little oil cooler heat exchanger and the engine being maybe super hot transferring heat to the oil it's possible if your running oil temps were reached the 240F range and that's with having fresh oil it thinned out broke down and there was some friction contact, If you're using the STOCK Hydraulic tensioner they will back off and rattle when they lose tension and ride high up on the gears when you roll off the throttle making noise.

We have seen worn ZX 14 Pumps break the shaft when the bearing fails sending bearing metal into the oil and making a musical racket and hopefully, that's all that happened your oil filter was clean and not bypassing.

The ZX ZG motor is pretty robust so hoping for the best they figure it out and your riding home
 
Thank you for all the comments. I appreciate each of you trying to help me and give me and my bike positive vibes. As it turned out the bike had a fatal Lower Rod failure and engine will need to be repaired extensively or replaced with a 35K Motor from a C14 that was damaged from an accident. Years of bikes considered are from 2008-2014. Cost difference is 4-5k to replace the existing damage from the bike with genuine new parts or replace with a lightly used engine that comes with a good water pump (The original water pump was damaged and needs to be replaced) for 2k. All fluids will be changed, new plugs and valves will be done also. What do you riders think. Go for lightly used engine replacement or part out the bike and retire it for good. Bike has very close to 160K miles on it and they were all fun pretty hard miles. I am a pretty aggressive rider. (No work miles on this bike) I have owned it since 2010 and it's been an awesome bike. The bikes worth before this failure was in the 2.5k-3K range though I may be optimistic. I believe the owners of the shop that are doing the work are honest and they have experience replacing motors.
 
Motomaniac said:
Thank you for all the comments. I appreciate each of you trying to help me and give me and my bike positive vibes. As it turned out the bike had a fatal Lower Rod failure and engine will need to be repaired extensively or replaced with a 35K Motor from a C14 that was damaged from an accident. Years of bikes considered are from 2008-2014. Cost difference is 4-5k to replace the existing damage from the bike with genuine new parts or replace with a lightly used engine that comes with a good water pump (The original water pump was damaged and needs to be replaced) for 2k. All fluids will be changed, new plugs and valves will be done also. What do you riders think. Go for lightly used engine replacement or part out the bike and retire it for good. Bike has very close to 160K miles on it and they were all fun pretty hard miles. I am a pretty aggressive rider. (No work miles on this bike) I have owned it since 2010 and it's been an awesome bike. The bikes worth before this failure was in the 2.5k-3K range though I may be optimistic. I believe the owners of the shop that are doing the work are honest and they have experience replacing motors.
Click to expand...
Bummer to hear the extensive damage, water pump went bad and then cascade of events, overheating, oil dilution, etc. ?

If you really love the bike - transplanting a ‘new’ heart & soul (engine & transmission) will be a ‘rebirth’.

Start thinking ahead what are the risks of placing a significantly younger engine into an older mileage machine. Will the mechanicals outlast the electrical? Are other components getting highly worn (final drive, head bearings, suspension components, ECU give up the smoke one day), that will start hundred dollaring you to death - although more and more parts can be had cheap used on eBay. Or possibly work a deal with the shop for the donor bike components swapped over?

Do you want to stay with the exact machine or move on - that’s the big question only you can answer. 160K a good run.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Motomaniac said:
Thank you for all the comments. I appreciate each of you trying to help me and give me and my bike positive vibes. As it turned out the bike had a fatal Lower Rod failure and engine will need to be repaired extensively or replaced with a 35K Motor from a C14 that was damaged from an accident. Years of bikes considered are from 2008-2014. Cost difference is 4-5k to replace the existing damage from the bike with genuine new parts or replace with a lightly used engine that comes with a good water pump (The original water pump was damaged and needs to be replaced) for 2k. All fluids will be changed, new plugs and valves will be done also. What do you riders think. Go for lightly used engine replacement or part out the bike and retire it for good. Bike has very close to 160K miles on it and they were all fun pretty hard miles. I am a pretty aggressive rider. (No work miles on this bike) I have owned it since 2010 and it's been an awesome bike. The bikes worth before this failure was in the 2.5k-3K range though I may be optimistic. I believe the owners of the shop that are doing the work are honest and they have experience replacing motors.
Click to expand...
That is rough news. The costs of repair/replacement are sounding like 50-70% of the cost of several of the used bikes I have seen in Cycle Trader. Many are 08-11 vintage averaging around 30k in miles. I always figure adding roughly a grand to a used bike in good condition to get it to the level I expect (fresh tires, new wheel bearings, stainless hydraulics, new coolant lines, replaced fork seals, etc). Bringing another bike into the picture adds other variables. A tough decision for sure; however, I would likely go for another bike. Of course…. As long as it is a Connie! 😀
 
Hate to hear this Russ, I was looking for you to join the 250K club. Personally, I would have to move on whether it be another C14 or something else. I couldn't justify spending what or more than the bike is worth on repairs.

As far as parting it out I guess that's a personal choice or a matter of storage space. When mine quits & it will someday. I'll probably build a pedestal to set it on in my shop so I can still look at it, to many miles & memories to just sell it off in pieces.
 
Similar story to this one…. Worked on a gents C14 whereas he purchased it used with a terrible flash (not from the high class more known gents here) - was pouring fuel into the machine and running SUPER rich, subsequently, gas was getting into the crankcase. Oil dilution occurred after a few hundred miles and machine started making terrible noises, began burning the thinned oil and running hotter.

Owner would note oil drop in sight glass and the noise then change oil again for another few hundreds miles.

I brought it in, reflashed it, changed oil, ran for about 15 miles, changed oil 2nd time due to fuel residue and now issue is gone.

He got very, very lucky… only the tried, true should be flashing for the masses or if on your own - know your stuff.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Bagger John said:
Why did the rod failure occur?

May help others in knowing the signs to watch for.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the W/P failed engine got super hot throw in some pre-igni to start beating the big end of the rod, oil thinned, the engine was loaded rod bearings are usually the first that seizes itself around the crankshaft journal. Next depends on the bearing’s location when they Spin rod bearings are the most common failure.
spun rod bearing will tear up the big end bore in the rod, ruin the rod journal on the crankshaft, and sometimes break the connecting rod and make a big mess
 
Motomaniac said:
Thank you for all the comments. I appreciate each of you trying to help me and give me and my bike positive vibes. As it turned out the bike had a fatal Lower Rod failure and engine will need to be repaired extensively or replaced with a 35K Motor from a C14 that was damaged from an accident. Years of bikes considered are from 2008-2014. Cost difference is 4-5k to replace the existing damage from the bike with genuine new parts or replace with a lightly used engine that comes with a good water pump (The original water pump was damaged and needs to be replaced) for 2k. All fluids will be changed, new plugs and valves will be done also. What do you riders think. Go for lightly used engine replacement or part out the bike and retire it for good. Bike has very close to 160K miles on it and they were all fun pretty hard miles. I am a pretty aggressive rider. (No work miles on this bike) I have owned it since 2010 and it's been an awesome bike. The bikes worth before this failure was in the 2.5k-3K range though I may be optimistic. I believe the owners of the shop that are doing the work are honest and they have experience replacing motors.
Click to expand...
I think I would spend the $800 on the engine for sale in the classifieds. 40K miles...and it is on the west coast.
 
Motomaniac said:
Yes...After the Sidewinder trip I was going to rest her but she had enough. Looks like I am going to repair her also so you'll see her again. :) …
Click to expand...
C-14 wasn’t made for resting! Right now ‘Blue’ is being abused sitting while handling some adult obligations, chores, 🙄.

I think dropping a fresh heart in your machine will be rewarding. Love a good challenge, especially when there’s another machine (ur GW) to be ridden in the interim.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Well here are some pictures of the repair of my bike. (Yes I decided to get it repaired) Should be ready for pick up Friday. My engine was replaced with a lightly used 2009 C14 engine with 37k miles. My hope it will be as good as I remembered it or better! The dirtier engine is the damaged or original one. Once I pick it up and ride the 300 miles home I will do a follow up report. Send positive vibes for a great repair! :)
 

Attachments

  • NE1.JPEG
    NE1.JPEG
    206.5 KB · Views: 252
  • NE2.JPEG
    NE2.JPEG
    208.8 KB · Views: 247
  • NE3.JPEG
    NE3.JPEG
    216.6 KB · Views: 247
Motomaniac said:
Well here are some pictures of the repair of my bike. (Yes I decided to get it repaired) Should be ready for pick up Friday. My engine was replaced with a lightly used 2009 C14 engine with 37k miles. My hope it will be as good as I remembered it or better! The dirtier engine is the damaged or original one. Once I pick it up and ride the 300 miles home I will do a follow up report. Send positive vibes for a great repair! :)
Click to expand...
I assume you are doing valves, plugs and all that other stuff now? I think you will be happy with it.
 
kzz1king said:
I assume you are doing valves, plugs and all that other stuff now? I think you will be happy with it.
Click to expand...
Yes all that is being done and I believe I will be happy with it. I will see the bike hopefully tomorrow afternoon now. Ride it home on Friday. Thank you for your comment.
 
Well today I rode my 2008 C14 with a new used 2009 (37K) motor back home in Southern California from Merced, California! S and P Motorsports an independent motorcycle shop in Merced I feel did a terrific job getting this bike running even better than it's run in a long time! I had 330 miles for the ride home and it rode and performed very well! I am very happy with my decision to repair my bike and hope to have many miles of fun in it's future! Here's some pictures from the shop and when I came home late this afternoon.

All 4 pictures below are my old engine which they will hold at the shop and use for any parts needed for another C14 or if I need a part they will take it off the old engine ( if good). That oily mess you see best in the first photo is from a leaky gasket from the top.
 

Attachments

  • CR1.JPG
    CR1.JPG
    169.1 KB · Views: 164
  • CR2.JPG
    CR2.JPG
    161.1 KB · Views: 169
  • CR3.JPG
    CR3.JPG
    176.5 KB · Views: 155
  • CR4.JPG
    CR4.JPG
    172.5 KB · Views: 165
Last edited:
First photo is a closer look at the oily and thick grime build up. The last 3 pictures are from my arrival from my 330 mile ride home today. Sorry most of the engine is of course covered in plastic. Smooth riding and no clapping sounds! :) :cool: (y)
 

Attachments

  • CR5.JPG
    CR5.JPG
    156.7 KB · Views: 146
  • CR6.JPG
    CR6.JPG
    126.2 KB · Views: 146
  • CR7.JPG
    CR7.JPG
    156.9 KB · Views: 143
  • CR8.JPG
    CR8.JPG
    138.8 KB · Views: 151
Outstanding. Always good to hear when a C14 is resurrected. I know it's not my place to suggest it, and I say this partially in jest, but you should name your machine 'Lazarus'. :^ ) While not indestructible these motors don't often give out, so I'm echoing Doug's question about why the bearing let go. Would be good to hear if there's a lesson-learned in this story somewhere that we can add to the COG Tech Repository.

Cheers! AB
 
texas.devops said:
Outstanding. Always good to hear when a C14 is resurrected. I know it's not my place to suggest it, and I say this partially in jest, but you should name your machine 'Lazarus'. :^ ) While not indestructible these motors don't often give out, so I'm echoing Doug's question about why the bearing let go. Would be good to hear if there's a lesson-learned in this story somewhere that we can add to the COG Tech Repository.

Cheers! AB
Click to expand...
A prior posting theorized that a water pump failure may have begun a chain of events leading to overheating and seizure.
 
Bagger John said:
A prior posting theorized that a water pump failure may have begun a chain of events leading to overheating and seizure.
Click to expand...

Thanks John, good call and thanks for sharing. I should have done some more research before asking. Was there a final determination, after the motor was pulled, that confirmed pump failure as the culprit? Thx, AB
 
texas.devops said:
Thanks John, good call and thanks for sharing. I should have done some more research before asking. Was there a final determination, after the motor was pulled, that confirmed pump failure as the culprit? Thx, AB
Click to expand...
Unknown - hopefully the OP will do a post-mortem and get back to us.

Question for the board at large: Has anyone had a water pump fail?
 
The Rod failure doomed the engine. It was a combination of several things, Close to 160,000 fairly hard miles, Very hot weather, Water pump failed sometime during the process. The Clapping noise on the bike started after lunch and got progressively worse as we rode the last set of curves before heading home. I did stop several times to cool the bike and have my rider friends give me advise. It is possible if I did shut down my bike earlier it may not have escalated but the main mechanic felt the damage had already occurred earlier. I was very concerned for the bike and engine. It just sucks (it was always dependable) but it gave me a lot of fun adventures the last 12 years. I hope the new heart will give it and me many more years of fun.
 
Motomaniac said:
The Rod failure doomed the engine. It was a combination of several things, Close to 160,000 fairly hard miles, Very hot weather, Water pump failed sometime during the process. The Clapping noise on the bike started after lunch and got progressively worse as we rode the last set of curves before heading home. I did stop several times to cool the bike and have my rider friends give me advise. It is possible if I did shut down my bike earlier it may not have escalated but the main mechanic felt the damage had already occurred earlier. I was very concerned for the bike and engine. It just sucks (it was always dependable) but it gave me a lot of fun adventures the last 12 years. I hope the new heart will give it and me many more years of fun.
Click to expand...

Right on. Hard miles in hot weather reduced the lifespan of some of the innards. Pump failure just helped it accelerate along the inevitable. Here in the southern part of TX, where Hades gets a run for its money every summer, I think it's safe to assume that changing oil frequently and making sure the coolant system is up to snuff is rather important. Thx for the update Russ! Enjoy your revived ride and stay safe amigo, AB
 
It doesn't make sense to say that hard miles did it because hard miles eludes to high RPMs and heavy use which would open the tolerance and clearances which should make it less likely for the crankshaft to grab a rod bearing because it would be a looser fit.

Overheating due to a failed water pump does make sense
 
Douglasjre said:
It doesn't make sense to say that hard miles did it because hard miles eludes to high RPMs and heavy use which would open the tolerance and clearances which should make it less likely for the crankshaft to grab a rod bearing because it would be a looser fit.

Overheating due to a failed water pump does make sense
Click to expand...

That's not the way it works. in general, if clearances are opening, it's because of wear... contact. this would be seen as wiping on the bearing. As this happens, the clearance opens up, and the oil pressure drops. this leads to more contact. Remember, it's the oil film keeping the journal and bearing separated from each other. The "loose fit" theory should be considered "the low oil pressure" theory.

Another issue folks overlook is advanced timing at low rpms. If the driver / rider applies a lot of throttle at low rpms, the oil film is thin and gas knock will drive the rod bearing down onto the journal. This will beat the crush out of the bearing, and eventually it will spin.

A pure overheating failure on the crank would be kind of a combination of the 2 scenario's above. The heat thins the oil and separately the excess cylinder temps lead to detonation . Now the oil is thin and the rod bearings are being beat to death against the crank journal. Contact is occuring on the top of the bearing where it's contacting the crank, which further wears the bearing and crank and opens the oil clearance. This lowers the oil pressure, and the bearing / crank wear is even more pronounced. This keeps happening until a bearing spins in a rod or the operator shuts the engine down with all the bearing shells and crank journals worn because there's basically no oil pressure left.

BTW, this is exactly the reason why I run synthetic oil in every piston engine I own. Over the decades of engine building, I've seen that under extreme heat, engine have a better shot of survival with oil that resists breakdown to higher temps. I don't use synthetic for what it does on an average day, I use synthetic for this exact overheating scenario.
 
Last edited:
Steve in sunny Fla said:
Another issue folks overlook is advanced timing at low rpms. If the driver / rider applies a lot of throttle at low rpms, the oil film is thin and gas knock will drive the rod bearing down onto the journal. This will beat the crush out of the bearing, and eventually it will spin.


BTW, this is exactly the reason why I run synthetic oil in every piston engine I own. Over the decades of engine building, I've seen that under extreme heat, engine have a better shot of survival with oil that resists breakdown to higher temps. I don't use synthetic for what it does on an average day, I use synthetic for this exact overheating scenario.
Click to expand...
With regards to the first point: My SOP has always been to gradually apply throttle from where the bike is currently operating (keeping in mind speed, gear and RPM) and if an immediate pick-up isn't noted, a downshift is in order. Unless cruising in 6th at freeway speeds, I try to keep the tach at least 3K - and usually higher in a given gear if I need quicker acceleration.

And the second: Both of my C14s have only seen full synthetic since I got them. The new one ('12) was properly broken in using pure dino, then semi-synth and finally full synthetic at its 3k fluid change. The '08 was bought from a buddy with ~5800mi on the odo and upon taking delivery, all fluids and filters were changed.
 
Bagger John said:
With regards to the first point: My SOP has always been to gradually apply throttle from where the bike is currently operating (keeping in mind speed, gear and RPM) and if an immediate pick-up isn't noted, a downshift is in order. Unless cruising in 6th at freeway speeds, I try to keep the tach at least 3K - and usually higher in a given gear if I need quicker acceleration.

And the second: Both of my C14s have only seen full synthetic since I got them. The new one ('12) was properly broken in using pure dino, then semi-synth and finally full synthetic at its 3k fluid change. The '08 was bought from a buddy with ~5800mi on the odo and upon taking delivery, all fluids and filters were changed.
Click to expand...
My shift point is minimum 4K, same reason, these engines are designed for RPMS and downshift for even more fun times.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
What a "good read" that story was Steve! Glad to hear it was a happy ending with everything coming together rather quickly at the shop where you got the transplant done. With a 160K on the meter I would say you got your moneys worth of full throttle sessions for what it cost you to replace and repair everything.

It sounds like the rod knock carried on for quite a while before the end was assured. It causes me to wonder...
Perhaps I should carry an extra oil filter in case an oil inspection ever becomes necessary if strange internal sounds are ever noticed.

I am also thinking a clean up of the exterior of the engine might make a small difference in how cool the motor runs. You're new motor is clean now... I wonder what the front of mine looks like?
 
zrxmax said:
I am also thinking a clean up of the exterior of the engine might make a small difference in how cool the motor runs. You're new motor is clean now... I wonder what the front of mine looks like?
Click to expand...
During each of the valve inspection/clearance projects with my C14s, I spend at least an hour cleaning the front of the motor and probably as much time polishing the head pipes with Collinite Metal Wax. Less garbage = better heat transfer.
 
A follow-up to my earlier post regarding throttle, in reply to Steve:

On the way home last night I purposefully paid attention to throttle/shifting technique and the tach, to confirm what I'd written earlier. At no point did I exceed 1/8 throttle opening, even when running the bike smartly up through the gears. I'm not sure who feels the need to go WOT in a high gear at relatively low speed...

And:

Unless cruising in 6th at freeway speeds, I try to keep the tach at least 3K
Click to expand...

I watched the tachometer while cruising in 6th at my normal (comfortable) freeway speed. It averaged around 4K and at times, higher. YMMV. Mine is definitely lower than other's numbers at those velocities. o_O
:ROFLMAO:
 
Bagger John said:
On the way home last night I purposefully paid attention to throttle/shifting technique and the tach, to confirm what I'd written earlier. At no point did I exceed 1/8 throttle opening, even when running the bike smartly up through the gears. I'm not sure who feels the need to go WOT in a high gear at relatively low speed...

And:



I watched the tachometer while cruising in 6th at my normal (comfortable) freeway speed. It averaged around 4K and at times, higher. YMMV. Mine is definitely lower than other's numbers at those velocities. o_O
:ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

If I understand, you're stating that because you use very light throttle, your RPMS for a given road speed are less than other riders at the same gear / speed who give more robust throttle openings?
 
Steve in sunny Fla said:
If I understand, you're stating that because you use very light throttle, your RPMS for a given road speed are less than other riders at the same gear / speed who give more robust throttle openings?
Click to expand...
It depends on gear and speed. What was meant is that I don't apply heavy throttle at low RPMs ("lugging the motor"). The bike makes enough torque and power that I don't need to use a lot of throttle to accelerate normally; a slight roll-on is it.

On ramps and hills are a different matter, and I definitely keep the motor around 5-6K or higher. Even still, I never need WOT to put myself well into 6-point territory - either passing or simply super-cruising.
 
Just a quick update! The new used engine that was installed on my C14 to replace the one that failed is running better than ever. Of course it's a small sample but I have put over 3K on the engine and so far so good. Just got back from The Devil's Cut in Arizona and the bike was outstanding!
Thank you for all the comments and I will update how it is running every few months. Bike has over 163K and the 40K on the '09 lightly used engine now. :) (y)
 
It seems a rare event to hear a Connie eating a rod bearing. It is common in the Gen 1 ZX14 motors due to flexing of the oil pump plate creating a loss in oil pressure under high rpm. It's also compounded by owners not filling the motor with the proper amount of oil.
 
Steve :

What are your thoughts about using Rotella T-6 15W-40 full synthetic vs. other more eexpensive "MC" full syntheticcs ?

What about Rotella T-6 5W-40 ? Both are MA2 oils, BTW.
 
IBAJIM said:
Steve :

What are your thoughts about using Rotella T-6 15W-40 full synthetic vs. other more eexpensive "MC" full syntheticcs ?

What about Rotella T-6 5W-40 ? Both are MA2 oils, BTW.
Click to expand...
Put Rotella in the search bar and you will find about every oil thread on here. Many of use it and have for years.
 
I concur. T6 is what I put in my '21 on the most recent maintenance before going to the Texas Hill Country. It's super smooth and will be what I use moving forward. Was originally concerned about the dry sump question but that has been favorably resolved.
 
I had just replaced the oil in my old engine before the Sidewinder rally and it was the Shell Rotella T6 5/40 and I have been using it for years. excellent oil and was filled to the correct level. Put 1,000 miles on it during the trip when the engine was damaged. Wish it never happened. :cry: But I do not think the oil was the issue at all.
 
Another quick update! The new used engine that was installed on my C14 to replace the one that failed is still running better than ever. Bigger sample now.... I have put over 10K on the engine! Correction I have put 4500 miles on it and Udo the OTP Traveler and all around terrific man put 5600 miles on it in just over 3 weeks of riding along the West Coast, Canyonville area, Sierra Nevada passes, Death Valley, Las Vegas then back to our home! Yes he rode my bike like it was own and said the bike ran perfectly!
Thank you for all the comments and I will continue to update how it is running every few months. Bike has over 170K and the 47K on the '09 lightly used engine now. Still using and just changed the oil T6 Shell Rotella 15w40.
 
Motomaniac said:
I have put 4500 miles on it and Udo the OTP Traveler and all around terrific man put 5600 miles on it in just over 3 weeks of riding along the West Coast, Canyonville area, Sierra Nevada passes, Death Valley, Las Vegas then back to our home! Yes he rode my bike like it was own and said the bike ran perfectly!
Click to expand...

He rode it well too, you'd have thought he had been riding it for years & was well adjusted to it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top