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Clutch Flush???

mitchvon

Mini Bike
I just had a new tire mounted at a shop and was told I need brakes. I thanked them and ordered pads from Murph's. Brakes I can do myself. They also said I needed my clutch flushed. 2001 C10 has 33000 miles. I am unfamiliar with flushing the clutch. I thought it the motor oil runs through the clutch. Flushing the clutch - is this for real or is it a kin to muffler bearings?? NEVER MIND I found it on page 195 of Clymers.
 
The motor oil does run through your clutch, so I would say that they meant to say you needed muffler bearings. Anyone couldf make that mistake. :)
 
May have meant that the clutch hydraulic system needs flushing. I could not believe how much crud there was in mine
 
I agree I am sure they meant the hydraulics , cause I had to do mine when I got it and what I got was a kin to mud not hard to do but it does take some patience to get thourghly cleaned out
 
A vote for Speed Bleeders on this one too. I got mine from Murphs. My opinion is they work great. 2003 Concours, 64K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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If you don't have a Mityvac get one. Having someone else to "fill up the master cylinder w/ DOT 4 brake fluid" would also make this job easier to complete.
 
Anyone know the recommended interval for this? I have a '06 with 43k and I haven't done it and unless it is in the service within the first three years, the dealer didn't do it either.
 
I don't know the service interval, but at about 20K the stock fluid in mine looked darkish in the sight glass. After changing to Valvoline SynPower fluid, its stayed clear for the next 30K. Then I redid it as I put on a new SS clutch line. Been clear since then too, about 15K. 2003 Concours, 64K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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I would do the clutch hyd fluid every time you bleed the brakes and the same way you bleed your brakes. The clutch fluid actually gets nasty faster I think. It is because the clutch master is connected direct to a very hot engine spot and that makes the fluid down in that area go bad faster. At least your brakes cool between uses. Photos[/url]
 
I think that the fluids are made to work in the high heat, and the breakdown would come with friction. So, running time (miles) might be a good gauge to use in timing of most oil changes. The only other time I think would matter is if the bike sat for a very long time without use.
 
Bob Smith wrote: "I would do the clutch hyd fluid every time you bleed the brakes and the same way you bleed your brakes. The clutch fluid actually gets nasty faster I think. It is because the clutch master is connected direct to a very hot engine spot and that makes the fluid down in that area go bad faster. At least your brakes cool between uses." +1 here, thats my thinking. I flush the fluids once a year, and with-in 6 months the clutch fluid is looking dark. And do a bit of "clutchless" shifting so realistically I think my brakes get more a "workout" than the clutch IMHO. The constant exposure to engine heat has just got to not be killer for what little bit of fluid that sits down there.
 
Kawi manual says change brake and clutch fluid every two years. HTH. Eddie COG Marketing Asst. Sanford, FL 2005 Concours 1969 Triumph Bonneville AMA# 686667 COG# 7073 CDA# 0136 http://picasaweb.google.com/Eddie753
 
The clutch fluid actually gets nasty faster I think. It is because the clutch master is connected direct to a very hot engine spot and that makes the fluid down in that area go bad faster. At least your brakes cool between uses
Me thinks its because the slave cylinders movement and action is further and likely more frequent. A brake slave only moves perhaps a millimeter or tow with each depression of the lever. Whereas the clutch moves about 3-5mm. I doubt the heat has much effect on contaminating the fluid.
 
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