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Clutch question

Andy Panda

Andy Panda

Guest
Guest
I got my 2009 Connie Father's day of this year and immediately noticed that upon start-up when I went to put the bike in 1st gear that it immediately started to pull forward even though I had the clutch lever in all the way. Was wondering if this is normal for the Connie's hydraulic clutch. I usually park the bike leaving it in first gear (how we motorcops are trained to) and have also noticed that it was a little stiff to move manually when off by squeezing in the clutch lever. I've further noticed that after the bike has warmed up, the pull is not as bad. Comming off of a 1999 BMW R1100RT-P , I am not used to this and wanted to make sure it is normal. Was also wondering if there is any way to adjust the clutch even though the manual says it don't need it 'cause its hydraulic.
Thanks all,
Andy
 
check your lever adjustment 1st.  I am new to the connie as well-my first hydrolic clutch set up, i have an 09 that i bought in June, and i know that i need to have the lever adjusted so that the clutches engagement occurs with my hand out about 1&1/2 inches out from the bar at least.  when i did have it set up to be closer, it seemed that the clutch was engaging earlier than i wanted it to.  i have small hands, so finding a good set up took some trial and error.

If there is an actual issue with the clutch, i am sure someone else will chime in with something that could be a problem.
 
I found that a slight surge was normal on mine when the bike was cold. But it never took off. Just a slight surge forward. 
 
The cold oil in between the clutch plates will cause fluid coupling when the oil is cold and the bike is first started. This is normal on a wet clutch bike. You probably will just need some time to adjust to the difference between a wet clutch feel and the dry clutch you had on your BMW. I suspect what you are feeling is normal.
 
Thanks all for the replies. I kinda figured it was normal but was not sure. My only other motorcycle experiences I have to reference off of are the HD Road King, Kawasaki ZZR, Kawasaki KZ1000-P, Honda ST1300 and the BMW, this hydraulic clutch of the Connie's is new to me.
Thanks again!!!
Andy
 
Even cold, you should be able to get the lever 50% or more away from the bar before you get engagement.  Twice now, my 2010 tried to take off as soon as I started to release the lever when cold, but only twice in 17K+ miles.

Was your bike a brand new hold over, or did you get it used?  If used, how many miles on it?

Two things I would suggest are replacing the clutch fluid (rule of thumb is to do it every 2 years regardless of mileage), and change the engine oil with a semi or full synthetic.  The Kawasaki branded engine oil is a semi-synthetic (Motul 5100, as I recall), can be purchased for less than most other semi-synthetics, and works great in the motor.

As for pushing in gear with the engine off, mine is the same as you describe.  Usually if you rock it back and forth once, the clutch will let go, and it will move, though with more resistance than if it were in neutral.

Another habit I have developed, is to squeeze and release the clutch several times after a cold start, before putting the bike back in gear.  Also, you probably already know about the adjustment dial on the levers.

Let us know how it goes.
 
Every bike I've owned (cable clutch or hydraulic) will jump a little when put in gear, hot or cold.
 
C1xRider said:
Two things I would suggest are replacing the clutch fluid (rule of thumb is to do it every 2 years regardless of mileage), and change the engine oil with a semi or full synthetic. 
Click to expand...

Bleeding or changing the clutch fluid is a good suggestion. I've seen brand new bikes that had air in the clutch from the factory. Its a pretty simple thing to do, and only takes a few minutes.
 
So which clutch is better..a wet clutch or a dry clutch?  Perhaps most important, which clutch is most consistent and lasts the longest? Is one clutch better to prevent a bunny hop on a hard downshift? I have no issues with the c14.
 
My '08 would lurch forward when cold and shifting from neutral to first gear.  I figured it was normal until I changed all the hydraulic fluids.  The clutch definitely improved.  My bike was originally sold new in September of '07, so the fluid was about four years old, and it may have had more of an effect than changing the clutch fluid on a newer bike.
 
I think I'll try changing the clutch fluid then. The bike had just over 12,500 miles on it when I got it and I've noticed that the fluid is about two shades darker than the brake fluid so maybe a change might just do the trick. Thanks to all who responded!!!
As far as Dry vs Wet, well I think having learned to ride in the first place on a dry clutch has helped me to use less rear brake than an average motorcop uses on the slow cone pattern stuff. The BMW dry clutch was like working an on off switch, so it is not like slipping a HD's clutch and if you tried to slip a BMW's clutch and used too much rear brake, you risk burning the clutch up (damn near a $2000.00 mistake). When I got the Connie and tried some slow exercises I noticed I did not need to use my rear brake hardly at all, so I think experience with both helps improve riding skills thus resulting in the bike ultimately spending more time on the road and less time in the shop  :motonoises:. Some police motor schools (especially west coast) have started to change their training up to teach just throttle and clutch control leaving the "feathering of the rear brake" completely out. It makes the wrenches (mechanics) feel better cause they say that motorcycles were never designed for or meant to have their clutches slipped the way motorcops do in the first place. So I say get experience with both, hell get with someone with a completely different bike and switch bikes in ten minute intervals for an hour or so in a vacant parkinglot doing circles. Believe me doing this with the RT and the Road King was an eye opener.
 
my o9 connie hasnt done that. The Road King however did on cold mornings as some of the other guys cause of a mis adjustment on the RK cable.
Sanford PD???????
 
when its very cold outside and upon the first cold start in the morning, my clutch seems like it has bled all of its pressure.  the lever is loose and the nano second that it releases from the grip, the clutch engages.  after it warms up for a few minutes it goes back to normal.

it does not do it in warmer weather.  the dealer has flushed the fluid twice but every winter is the same problem. not sure if this is what youre referring to or not.
 
tjhess74 said:
when its very cold outside and upon the first cold start in the morning, my clutch seems like it has bled all of its pressure.  the lever is loose and the nano second that it releases from the grip, the clutch engages.  after it warms up for a few minutes it goes back to normal.
it does not do it in warmer weather.  the dealer has flushed the fluid twice but every winter is the same problem. not sure if this is what youre referring to or not.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm glad you mentioned that. I was wondering whats going on with mine. 
 
My clutch just started to have issues this weekend after a trip to the mountains.  Now when I first start the bike the clutch feels very soft and engages as soon as I start to release the clutch lever.  After the bike has been warmed up the clutch lever firms right up and the engaging point returns to normal.  Guess I will bleed the clutch this weekend and see if it fixes the problem.  Just weird that it developed so suddenly.
 
kawicop said:
my o9 connie hasnt done that. The Road King however did on cold mornings as some of the other guys cause of a mis adjustment on the RK cable.
Sanford PD???????
Click to expand...

...Groveland PD  :beerchug:
 
reminder:
both clutch, and brake fluids are a scheduled replacement at 15k and 30k miles, and I suggest a better rule would be every 2 years regardless of milage.
 
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