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CONCOURS 14 OIL FILTER

I prefer the Mobil MB-110 or MB-112 but Purolator makes a good filter as well which we have used but I don't recall the part number off the top of my head.
 
The Purolator may be an ML-16817  that is what comes to mind.  I was incorrect, its a PL14610. The ML line is made in China. See my other post below.
 
this is from the parts directory:


OIL FILTERS

Oil Filter - 16097-0004
A/C Delco - PF2135
Amsoil - 24942 (this one may be a Wix filter)
Fram - PH6017A
K&N - KN-303
Napa Gold - 1358
Napa - PS1358 (black and costs less)
Purolator ML16817 (made for motorcycles)
Purolator Pure One - PL14610 (Note: Purolator recommends not using automotive filters on motorcycles)
Purolator Pure One - 2.5"- PL14612 (Note: Purolator recommends not using automotive filters on motorcycles)
Walmart Super Tech - ST7317
Wix - short: 51358; long:  51356

I have been using the Kawi filter personally, but will probably give the Wix a shot.    :motonoises:
 
I have never used anything but OEM filters on a any of bikes, can't see saving a couple of dollars on something as important as an oil filter. Guys on the Gold Wing  site will spend $25,000 on a bike and want to save $4.00 on a filter, I don't get it, I bought my Gold Wing filters 10 at a time and got them,  for $8.00 each.
 
joe in calif said:
I have never used anything but OEM filters on a any of bikes, can't see saving a couple of dollars on something as important as an oil filter. Guys on the Gold Wing  site will spend $25,000 on a bike and want to save $4.00 on a filter, I don't get it, I bought my Gold Wing filters 10 at a time and got them,  for $8.00 each.
Click to expand...



TRUE VERY TRUE !!!!
 
I just used the OEM on my first change, heard a few horror stories of removing,  no problem though,  chain wrench makes short work of it.
 
I use OEM only as long as the bike is under warranty (that way they can't use the Oil Filter to deny an engine claim as many makers will try to do)

After that, I will trust K&N, but I am leary of others....
 
So just how often does everyone change their oil if I read properly my manual says 7500 miles but ive heard dealer saying anywhere between 2000-5000
What's your thoughts
 
I have hated oil threads on motorcycle sites for years and I have a feeling this is going to be another one. I cannot believe all of you who insist an OEM filter is superior in filtration and protection to certain high performance filters. What are you basing your claims on? What research have you done? Is it just that you think Maw Kaw will honor your warranty with one and won't without it? I call crap on that one.

So just what is it you are looking at? Element material, amount of filter material surface area, size of material filtered in microns, percent effectiveness, anti drain back valve material and shape, case thickness?

If you look at the hard data on all of these things I am pretty sure you will find that Purolator is 99.2% effective down to 20 microns while your OEM filter is only 85.2% effective down to 20 microns or about 10x more material is getting back into your engine with the OEM. You will find similar protection with the Mobil 1.

I too think Purolator is full of crap when they say not to use the the PL14610 on a bike. The ML filter they suggest and the one I listed the part number for earlier is made in China and branded with their label. Would you trust that on your bike?  Myself and many many others have used the PL14610 for years and probably hundreds of thousands of miles between us with no problems. I did not have the exact part number in front of me when I made that post, hence it was incorrect. I do not and will not use the ML filter, only the PL14610 or a Mobil 1 M1-110.

Feel free to contact the filter companies and talk to a few oil company engineers as I have and form your own opinions. Lets face it, if we change our oil at frequent intervals and use a good filter the motor will probably outlast us. But there are better filters out there than OEM for the same or less money if you shop around so why not use one.

Just my .02
 
Teleskier said:
I have hated oil threads on motorcycle sites for years and I have a feeling this is going to be another one. I cannot believe all of you who insist an OEM filter is superior in filtration and protection to certain high performance filters. What are you basing your claims on? What research have you done? Is it just that you think Maw Kaw will honor your warranty with one and won't without it? I call crap on that one.

So just what is it you are looking at? Element material, amount of filter material surface area, size of material filtered in microns, percent effectiveness, anti drain back valve material and shape, case thickness?

If you look at the hard data on all of these things I am pretty sure you will find that Purolator is 99.2% effective down to 20 microns while your OEM filter is only 85.2% effective down to 20 microns or about 10x more material is getting back into your engine with the OEM. You will find similar protection with the Mobil 1.

I too think Purolator is full of crap when they say not to use the the PL14610 on a bike. The ML filter they suggest and the one I listed the part number for earlier is made in China and branded with their label. Would you trust that on your bike?  Myself and many many others have used the PL14610 for years and probably hundreds of thousands of miles between us with no problems. I did not have the exact part number in front of me when I made that post, hence it was incorrect. I do not and will not use the ML filter, only the PL14610 or a Mobil 1 M1-110.

Feel free to contact the filter companies and talk to a few oil company engineers as I have and form your own opinions. Lets face it, if we change our oil at frequent intervals and use a good filter the motor will probably outlast us. But there are better filters out there than OEM for the same or less money if you shop around so why not use one.

Just my .02
Click to expand...

I did many times with a Purolator Engineer during the development of the Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit for the C-10 Concours. He specifically recommended NOT to use the PL (PureONE) series filters on motorcycle engines. It is also posted on their website:

"What About PureONE
If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter."

You can ignore their specific advice if you want to. I tend to follow it.

Dan
 
Bergmen said:
"What About PureONE
If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter."

You can ignore their specific advice if you want to. I tend to follow it.

Dan
Click to expand...

Sorry Dan, but I have to be a wise a$$. I thought motorcycles were vehicles?
 
I don't get why some people are so against the OEM filters

Yes some aftermarket filters will  filter out more then OEM but will that actually make a difference in the way the motor runs or the likely hood of sudden catastrophic failure?  I am going to have to guess that would be a Negatory Johanson, because if it did, it would have come from the factory with the better filter since they want to avoid motors dying and having all those pesky warranty claims. And as for longevity, I really suspect that the difference in oil filter filtration won't make a hoot of a difference  as long as you use one that has a MIN of what the OEM ships with. 

Speaking of warranty claims,  g-d forbid if your motor seizes or throws some internals and they see a non OEM filter as they WILL try to claim it was the filter.  you then have to take them to court to argue it,  And unless it was an oil delivery problem that caused the issue you would most likely win,  But while you are arguing, that is all the more time your bike is sitting not running and you are not riding.  Granted the chances of having that problem are slim, but why risk it...

And as to those who aregue about the PurOne Filter and say it's fine...guess again.  It may WORK fine and may filter out plenty,  but if you have a filter on your motorcycle that the maker of said filter SPECIFICALLY says not to use on a motorcycle you will have a hard time getting that engine warrantied even if it didn't cause the issue because as part of the warranty you have a responsibility to maintain the engine in a reasonable fashion,  using parts that specifically say not to in this application WILL void the warranty on the engine, no ifs ands or buts about it. 

The cost differences aren't even that much,  Ronayers lists the OEM filter for about 8 bucks whereas the K&N is on murph's site for 16 bucks (Have to buy a pack of 2) Not sure about the Purelator or Mobil but how much more or less then 8 bucks can they be?


So use whatever filter you want to,    as for me, I  will stick with OEM :)


 
Funny thing, I've flown about 6,500 hours behind Lycomings, Continentals, Pratt & Whitneys, Franklins, and on and on... none of which had oil filters.  They all had screens to catch the chunks of seals and unknowns and a magnetic drain plug to collect the iron.  Any carbon that let loose got eaten up and spat out the exhaust unless it blew by and that's why we changed oil every 50 hours.  The other reason for changing oil at 50 hours was to purge the spent chemical oil additives along with whatever resulted from combustion byproducts MOST OF WHICH ARE SUBMICRON.

My position is that an oil analasis every 400 hours is the only way to find out what's wearing in your engine.  If you remove the old filter and throw it away without cutting it open to see what it collected then all you know is that you now have a new oil filter and you're out $ ?????  At least with the screen we get to see what is going on.  Oil filter manufacturers love you guys.  You treat them like gods.  They make toilet paper in a can.

Anybody check the ph of their crankcase lately.  Let's worry about that for awhile... and the black electrical tape on the wiring in your homes.  How old is that?
 
i only use K&N -- KN-303 --$14 and has a nut on top for easy on and off , i use them on all my bikes and my truck and car for years , and been doing track days for years and never had one go bad !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beerchug:
 
After fighting with my filter (with appropriate wrench), I'm on board with any filter that has a nut welded to it. Only a K&N feature?
 
trailer_parks said:
After fighting with my filter (with appropriate wrench), I'm on board with any filter that has a nut welded to it. Only a K&N feature?
Click to expand...
  yes i love the K&N http://www.amazon.com/KN-303-Motorcycle-Powersports-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVIS
41MytiQKncL__SS500_.jpg
 
Once you get the factory filter than the one you put back on shouldn't be a bear top take off it you don't over tighten it. One thing about after market filters that FIT a different vehicle, the filters have a pressure valve in them, if the pressure valve is not the same as the OEM you can cause damage to your motor.
Read this

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/oilfiltertest.htm
 
joe in calif said:
Once you get the factory filter than the one you put back on shouldn't be a bear top take off it you don't over tighten it. One thing about after market filters that FIT a different vehicle, the filters have a pressure valve in them, if the pressure valve is not the same as the OEM you can cause damage to your motor.
Read this

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/oilfiltertest.htm
Click to expand...

Always learning something new ... thanks for sharing that.
 
The Purolator  PL14610.....Yea I know my bike is a tick'in time bomb with the unapproved "car" filter  :deadhorse: ?? Any oil opinions guy's ??? :deadhorse:
 
as for the K&N with the nut on top --- i have put years on the race track with them on other bikes and mine never failed , and you dont use the nut to put the filter on and use my hands to get snug , then 1/4 turn with wrench , its just so easy to take off with the K&N almost so fast you dont spill anything , as for being over priced thats funny come on 2or 3 dollars more is worth not having a headache taking a filter off ,
 
Having the nut on the K&N is probably the ONLY possible reason IMHO to use something other then the OEM,  but honestly it's not that big a deal.. I use a pair of big channel locks and the OEM filter comes off in less then 30 seconds.

Once the warranty is up, I MAY consider the K&N for the ease of having that Nut,  but for now it's OEM all the way :)

Ps, nut or no nut,  you should NEVER use a wrench on an oil filter to install,  hand tighten only IMHO :)

PPs, I highly doubt your engine is a ticking time bomb cause you have the non approved car filter (In my opinion,  YMMV)  I can't say for sure but U suspect it would work fine..HOWEVER if you DO have an engine issue and it turns out it was friction related, and they see a CAR filter that the maker of said filter SPECIFICALLY says not to use for Motorcycles then Kawi would be well within it's legal rights to deny a warranty claim
 
Use K&N that I get from the Cycle Gear store. Come on guys, you're talking about $4 difference here. We spend more than that on all kinds of crap for our bikes.
 
It  actually costs more for me to use OEM or anything other filter from the dealer. I don't know about y'all. But my closest dealer (where I tend to support) is 20+ miles each way. I figure that it probably costs me $15 or more in fuel for my truck to run out there. Although if I take one of the bikes, it's about $5 in fuel. So when I go to the dealer. I try to go combined with some other trip.
 
gasman5.0 said:
The Purolator  PL14610.....Yea I know my bike is a tick'in time bomb with the unapproved "car" filter  :deadhorse: ?? Any oil opinions guy's ??? :deadhorse:
Click to expand...

If you go by the main course of this thread...I would assume most people are using only Kawasaki oil...... :))  Pesonally I use full synthetic Shell Rotella T
 
Cap'n Bob said:
It  actually costs more for me to use OEM or anything other filter from the dealer. I don't know about y'all. But my closest dealer (where I tend to support) is 20+ miles each way. I figure that it probably costs me $15 or more in fuel for my truck to run out there. Although if I take one of the bikes, it's about $5 in fuel. So when I go to the dealer. I try to go combined with some other trip.
Click to expand...


I pay 8.50 ish on Ronayers and figure a few bucks on shipping (I order a few at a time) so figure 10 bucks total per filter.

As I said, once the warranty is up, I will prob start to use the K&N just for the convenience of the nut for removal at change time :)
 
Okay... I'll bite.  Who among you have held in your hand, either your left or your right, a name brand oil filter that "failed"?  Now don't make it up because I've been in the industrial, marine, aircraft, motorcycle, automobile, generator and skid-steer business for fifty years and I've heard 'em all... but I've yet to see an oil filter that failed... had that single ply toilet paper fail though.  I call BS.

 
I'm using the Fram - PH6017A for the first time, I had been using the K&N prior but its pricey. My only concern is how it come off really. Let you guys know in 3000 mile when I go to change oil again. If I don't have any problems removing I'll stick with it 4 buck filter and change oil ever 3k miles.
 
It takes pressure to force oil through a filter or cooler.  As filters collect debris oil pressure out is reduced.  If the blockage is substantial an over pressure relief valve serves to bypass the filter or cooler.  Multigrade oils weren't formulated to get thicker when hot, rather they were developed to get thinner when very cold so the pump could move the stuff.  Without multigrade oils we would have oil dilution for cold winter starts.  Oil dilution via gasoline (introduced into the oil of a running engine) is performed prior to shut down in extreme cold so engines can be restarted the next morning... is some cases if the engines will be off for just a few hours.  But, that's not where I was going with this...

... changing your oil every 6,000 miles is fine but, change your filter every 3,000.  This would pertain to a mid-time engine as greater bearing tolerance and blow by would be expected, the first resulting in lower oil pressure and the later resulting in constant reducing filter capability which again results in reduced oil-out pressure.  Simply put, if a two foot wide box is parked in a four foot doorway, it's a two foot doorway.

Mid-oil change filter change helps to assure stabile pressure in a dirty engine and especially one that's making metal, in which case the pin is probably out of the grenade... oh yeah, and drain your oil cold not hot... after the bike has sat on the side stand for at least six to ten hours.
 
im a cold oil change guy myself. 

oil and filters are like shoes and underwear.  no one pair will fit all.  as long as the oil is not energy conserving and as long as the filter fits, use it if it helps you sleep at night.

kaw doesnt make kaw filters.  kaw also doesnt make kaw oil.  your preferred brand started in the same barrel of oil that the next brand did...fact.  same for your gasoline too.

combined, we have millions of miles on thousands of bikes and likely no engine grenades solely due to using non oem parts.  if there is one example, it is beyond an isolated event.

list your preference to share with others, and use what you want.  and until purolator can tell me specifically why not to use the pl filter on my bike, i will continue to do so.  again, well over 200k miles on multiple bikes using the pl and various oils.  no issues whatsoever.

debate on...
 
tj

saw your signature. thanks for serving. I have two sons in the Navy as we speak. One on deployment now. Agreed with your post too. Thanks
 
Got one similar to this when I bought my last filter at Cycle Gear. It was a giveaway so cost me nothing. Just put in on my socket wrench and twist away. It's self adjusting and will take off any filter, although it DID crush the OEM one that came on the bike.
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PRC_L46-00010

Of course, you could always try one of these. I never have, though.
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_15-1326_G
 
Wal Mart sells a Fram brand oil filter wrench....not wrench, exactly, but the metal, slip on tool. 3.26 and it was the smallest size they sell.
 
The great oil filter debate makes it to motorcycle forums too... and I thought that was only a big deal on the car side...
Anyway, to clear a few things up on oil filters;  K&N, Purolator, Bosch, AC Delco, Motorcraft, Mobil 1, and a couple other brands I can't recall are all made by Champ Labs/Purolator, depending on who has the contract that day.  While most are a decent filter, stay away from the ECORE design, plastic core tube and fiber end caps don't play well inside motors, and are simply a way to lower production costs.  Napa Gold, Carquest Blue, and Wix branded filters are all made by Wix, and are decently well constructed filters that do their jobs well, and are OE in many automotive applications.  Fram/Penzoil/Quakerstate filters are all made by Fram (Honeywell consumer products), don't bother with these, as Honeywell seems to spend more on adverising than on production quality.  Baldwin/Hastings are excellent filters, and well worth the money, just can be difficult to find outside of truck parts stores.  Amsoil filters are exceptional, but again, not the easiest filters to get your hands on.
Any questions, don't hesitate to message me and ask why I say certain things about these particular brands.
 
parts guy,

Everything you stated is true and valid and compares to all of the research I have ever done into oil filters.
 
Teleskier said:
parts guy,

Everything you stated is true and valid and compares to all of the research I have ever done into oil filters.
Click to expand...

I work in a family owned parts store...  ya might say I go a bit overboard on my research on these kinds of things.  It helps me sell my own products easier.
 
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