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Condensation from Left Vacuum Valve

F

freefalldl

Guest
Guest
Just finished a top end on my 2002 C-10 (25,000 miles).I replaced the cams for sever pitting; looked like detonation more than just pitting, I Had it running fine excpet it "stuttered" from 1000 to 2000 rpm. I put almost 500 miles on it and decided to check the valve lash again. When tried to start it back up, I noticed what appeared to be clear water droplets coming from the vacuum valve that attaches to the valve cover over cyl's 1/2. I do not see any gas or water in the oil or contaminates in the coolant. I do not smell coolant and the water droplets appears clear. I checked compression: #1=179, #2=180, #3=190, #4=185 psi. I torqued the head bolts; those nearest the center cylinders were a few ft/lbs loose. re-checked the pressures: #1=183, #2=175, #3=180, #4=175. I realy don't know if these are within spec or if the water vapor/droplets means I have a leaky head gasket or not. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks, Doug
 
Be careful re torquing head bolts. The static friction to move them can be as much as 20% over the torque values and it's easy to over tighten. I used to assemble them with Anti-Seize to get a more accurate torque value. However, I would not worry about what you have so far. I'd leave them alone. The variations in your compression readings are due to variations in the gauge most likely. Otherwise there could be slight differences in piston ring sealing due to being cold, oil flow, and all that. Those tubes sometimes get condensation in them and it could accumulate from short trips but the reed valves are supposed to stop that from happening. I never liked the vacuum valve and decided to take it off both my KZ1000's (yes even the 1980 had it!) and I got a short piece of heater hose and bridged it from one to the other. I also took out the reed valves so they would not accumulate anything. You can also buy block-off plates but that costs a lot more than a piece of heater hose. Have you tried putting some Seafoam in your gas - it could just be a little plugging of the pilots. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
Thanks for the feedback! I did rebuild the carbs. I was going to tear them down for a second look; sounds like I'm in the right area.
 
I scrapped the reed valve junk on mine quite a while ago. Sure makes valve cover removal a lot simpler. I just removed it all, and tapped the old cover holes and threaded in some stainless bolts with anti seize. I used an expanding pipe plug from the hardware store to fill the airbox hole. Shots of the valve cover here..... Valve cover holes tapped and plugged.
 
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