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Corrosion

gsun

gsun

COG# 9127 CDA# 560
Member
I was messing around on the bike today and I noticed some corrosion under it. Seems there is some dissimilar  metal contact but not all. There is corrosion on the front brake lines, the oil drain plug, the tie rod on the rear shock and the muffler. Now, I did ride late and there was snow on the sides of the road this year so there probably was salt on the road. Should I be concerned? Any way to stop it?
 

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More pics.
 

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I do at times. I spray mine off quite often. And I definitely would spray it off and use soap and other stuff, if I rode around with salt on the roads. But that's just me. I put my bikes away when the salt and sand comes out (if not before). And they stay away until it's pretty much all washed off the roads.  But of course I'm an extreme example.  :))
 
:eek:

Wow, so glad they don't use salt on the roads here in the PNW, that sucks man.  :(
 
The best corrosion inhibitor I've ever found is Boeshield T-9.  Originally developed by Boeing to keep aircraft cables in good shape, it goes on wet and dries to a waxy finish that sticks to the bare metal, keeping that corrosive oxygen away from it for a LONG time.  I started using it in the 80s and it's still great stuff.
 
ChipDoc said:
The best corrosion inhibitor I've ever found is Boeshield T-9.  Originally developed by Boeing to keep aircraft cables in good shape, it goes on wet and dries to a waxy finish that sticks to the bare metal, keeping that corrosive oxygen away from it for a LONG time.  I started using it in the 80s and it's still great stuff.
Click to expand...
Do these products burn off exhaust pipes? I guess they would.... Just found this about a half mile from my work! Pick some up tomorrow.
 
Any chance you've been using a spray wheel cleaner?  I know those spray cleaners designed to release brake dust will eat away at the metal plating on our brake lines and bolts.  It is really hard on the metal parts if it is left on too long without a thorough rinsing.
 
G-Mazz said:
Any chance you've been using a spray wheel cleaner?  I know those spray cleaners designed to release brake dust will eat away at the metal plating on our brake lines and bolts.  It is really hard on the metal parts if it is left on too long without a thorough rinsing.
Click to expand...
Nope. Too lazy for that.  ;D Actually, I use a metal polish that comes as a liquid in a bottle.
 
gsun said:
Nope. Too lazy for that.  ;D Actually, I use a metal polish that comes as a liquid in a bottle.
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Many metal polishes are acidic and may need to be followed with a neutralizer. I'm not saying that is what caused your rust (which looks like road salt probably did it) , but I'd be careful how and where I use metal polish. The wheels are clear coated so you shouldn't need to use anything more than soap and water or maybe mineral spirits on them.

For existing rust, there are some spray on products that will convert the rust to zinc phosphate. It will at least stop it from getting worse.
 
For existing rust, there are some spray on products that will convert the rust to zinc phosphate.

Any names of this type of product?
 
gsun said:
For existing rust, there are some spray on products that will convert the rust to zinc phosphate.

Any names of this type of product?
Click to expand...

http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY/productinfo/MRG/

STUFF IS AMAZING
it comes with the POR-15 fuel tank coating "kit" also, and I can attest it works... best part is, for something you can "dip / soak" in a container, you can re-cycle the juice, it will work for many uses, and does not deplete it's effectiveness for a long time. Just pour it back into a container and save it till needed again.
 
gsun said:
For existing rust, there are some spray on products that will convert the rust to zinc phosphate.

Any names of this type of product?
Click to expand...

I used to buy some stuff called OxySolve but I'm not able to find it anymore, but I think it's the same stuff as that POR-15 product. You could reuse it over and over. Eastwood Automotive also has some good rust treatments you might want to look over.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/treatment.html
 
orangewingnut said:
gsun said:
Who washes under the bike?
Click to expand...

i do. i lay on the ground and give it a good scrub with a brush.

Bill
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That's why part of you handle is "wingnut"! ;D But, then again, you probably don't have any problems either.....
 
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY/productinfo/MRG/

STUFF IS AMAZING
it comes with the POR-15 fuel tank coating "kit" also, and I can attest it works... best part is, for something you can "dip / soak" in a container, you can re-cycle the juice, it will work for many uses, and does not deplete it's effectiveness for a long time. Just pour it back into a container and save it till needed again.
[/quote]

I don't want to prep for paint. This etches the metal as well. I guess scrubbing is the best way. As far as a protective coating, Boeshield looks good. Going to pick some up tomorrow.
 
gsun said:
I don't want to prep for paint. This etches the metal as well. I guess scrubbing is the best way. As far as a protective coating, Boeshield looks good. Going to pick some up tomorrow.
Click to expand...

It's not just for preparing a surface for paint....it repairs/removes rust and corrosion molecularly, and deposits a zinc phosphate layer upon the virgin metal strata that is below the existing(until removed) rust/oxidation.
It is not an etch process (like what results from using acids or caustic substances), it is a conversion product. metal "etch" products actually attack base metal, and are in themselves corrosive...
I've used Beoshield, and it is a surface "protectant", so take that as it can be used after the rust / corrosion is removed. It ain't gonna do anything for the exhaust pipes though, except burn off...Sealing a surface that is already corroded simply allows the grmlins to keep working below the coating....
 
Russ said:
The earth friendly green tree hugger granola birkenstock wearing spray is now a mixture of salt and some sort of sticky liquid, like molasses - at least in Pierce County.  During our recent ice storm, I saw plain old rock salt being used on arterial's. 

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2008554980_roadsalt24m.html
Click to expand...

:mad:


Well that sucks, I haven't seen it down here in Portland yet though, so please keep it up north for me Russ...
 
gsun said:
orangewingnut said:
gsun said:
Who washes under the bike?
Click to expand...

i do. i lay on the ground and give it a good scrub with a brush.

Bill
Click to expand...

That's why part of you handle is "wingnut"! ;D But, then again, you probably don't have any problems either.....
Click to expand...

my last bike was a 02 gl1800. The aluminum rims weren't coated and were a bi*ch to keep clean. The brake dust would eat at them and you basically had to wipe them down after every ride... so i got used to laying down and scrubbing at everything that was dirty.
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
gsun said:
I don't want to prep for paint. This etches the metal as well. I guess scrubbing is the best way. As far as a protective coating, Boeshield looks good. Going to pick some up tomorrow.
Click to expand...

It's not just for preparing a surface for paint....it repairs/removes rust and corrosion molecularly, and deposits a zinc phosphate layer upon the virgin metal strata that is below the existing(until removed) rust/oxidation.
It is not an etch process (like what results from using acids or caustic substances), it is a conversion product. metal "etch" products actually attack base metal, and are in themselves corrosive...
I've used Beoshield, and it is a surface "protectant", so take that as it can be used after the rust / corrosion is removed. It ain't gonna do anything for the exhaust pipes though, except burn off...Sealing a surface that is already corroded simply allows the grmlins to keep working below the coating....
Click to expand...

That's funny...it says on the web page that it etches the metal. Prep for paint.
I bought some rust remover that is biodegradable, water based. I am going to try it and then spray on Boeshield. I know it will burn off the exhaust, but it will protect the rest.
 
On rust I use Loctite Rust Remedy. (Loctite Extend in the USA)
Brush loose rust off and paint it with Rust Remedy.
Turns the rust black and prevents it rusting again.

However, ya shouldn't have rust on your Stainless Steel headers.
This is more likely to be rust particles suspended in water that has come from somewhere else.
The water has evaporated on the header and left the rust behind.
If it is the headers that are rusting then Rust Remedy them.

As for the ally, most of it is actually paint over aluminium.
A stone chip will let salt get in and then it bubbles up.
Y'all should see the state of my wheels after 2 winters hard use.
When I get time I'll be getting them powdercoated.
I also have a lot of corrosion elsewhere but it's all cosmetic so doesn't worry me too much.

I'll try and take some pics over the weekend.
That should make y'all feel better about your corrosion issues.  ;D
 
Another trick we used on nuts/bolts for corrosion resistance and easy removal for later was to spray it down with Plexus. The same stuff for shields. It was easily available and worked well.
 
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