No on sells crash bars for our bikes, I assume back in the day they did. I was planning on building a set of 5\8ths twisted steel crash bars. Does anyone have pictures of the old ones and where they mounted and how they mounted?
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Crash bars
- Thread starter nomoreusmc6802
- Start date
I have been looking for them as well. I have a friend who fabricates. He said he would make me a set when he has time.
Murphs still sells the hardware kits for the tipover bars ( bars not available) . Might be good to have if trying to make some .
Yeah I Had considered it. I'm concerned that brackets aren't going to be strong enough to support the weight of the 5\8th solid bar I was planning to use. I'm planning on them being honest to God crash bars not just tip over bars (also a mounting points for side lights)(maybe hwy pegs too)
Honest to God crash bars ( I had them on a Honda 750) Most likely would have folded in on a crash bending or breaking the frame in the process. Tip over bars most definitely fold in on a crash but do not usually damage the frame. I tried it myself and they folded without damaging the frame. Anything jutting out is going to lever and put great force on wherever it attaches to the motorcycle frame. Sliders and pucks only stick out a couple of inches and protect the engine.
Most of the time I'm glad the tipover bars are on the bike but they make maintenance more difficult, plus there's some weird voodoo the front bars do to the upper engine mounting bolts - which the bars use. I've had so many loosen up I've taken to carrying spare bolts, nuts, and washers on trips with me. I've replaced a few in hotel parking lots - which usually requires field stripping the lower plastic off for access. I've tried the shims, Loctite, and grade 8 bolts. I have a pivoting box end ratchet wrench that should make field repairs somewhat easier.
Most of the time I'm glad the tipover bars are on the bike but they make maintenance more difficult, plus there's some weird voodoo the front bars do to the upper engine mounting bolts - which the bars use. I've had so many loosen up I've taken to carrying spare bolts, nuts, and washers on trips with me. I've replaced a few in hotel parking lots - which usually requires field stripping the lower plastic off for access. I've tried the shims, Loctite, and grade 8 bolts. I have a pivoting box end ratchet wrench that should make field repairs somewhat easier.
Ok good information, will watch out for the motor mount bolt. I was still planning on bolting it to the motor but was planning on instead of 14 gauge steel for brackets I was planning on using 11 gauge and have the brackets bend before the bar. Should be a bit springy before it bends. Plan on doing the rear pretty much the same design, just beefier.
If you make the crash bars too strong, your save the plastic and break the engine casing.
Suspect a welder could use the parts from Murphs and this to make a set.
Suspect a welder could use the parts from Murphs and this to make a set.
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On page 60 of the above crash bars it says it fits the 1986 ZG 1000A Kawasaki Concours.
That is what I see. Someone else please look
Dean
That is what I see. Someone else please look
Dean
That's actually pretty close to what I was thinking actually, except solid twist not tube.
You think 11gauge bracket would bend before breaking the case?
Not sure about the gage strengths. (I'm not a welder)
On the ones I posted I doubt their as strong as the ones that used to be available.
ie; Might not be strong e'nuff to completely prevent any plastic damage.
But the chance of damaging an engine case (from being too strong) is bad.
Dumb question but, is it possible to twist square box tubing?
On the ones I posted I doubt their as strong as the ones that used to be available.
ie; Might not be strong e'nuff to completely prevent any plastic damage.
But the chance of damaging an engine case (from being too strong) is bad.
Dumb question but, is it possible to twist square box tubing?
It is possible but I don't like the way it looks. And tube is a hot twist, so the consistency of the twist is just as consistent as the heat that the tube holds wall twisting. Solid is a cold twist and is extremely consistent because the force goes along the whole work piece. Hot twist also dulls the corners which starts to deform the box shape