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Cush drive

K

kzz1king

Member
Member
I ordered a new cush drive. I had read something about them wearing. It seems that I am getting some driveline play in mine. A little over 90k of fun miles. Anyone else replace there's and notice any difference?
 
I took mine apart at 155k. Just for a look around, not because I felt anything bad. It fell out in 3 pcs, was hard as a rock with black powder everywhere. Same black powder thats on the wheel after a long ride. So I had a used like new wheel that I swapped out, assuming the cush is much better in it. I can't tell any difference but would say that the original needed replaced.
 
laker9142 said:
I took mine apart at 155k. Just for a look around, not because I felt anything bad. It fell out in 3 pcs, was hard as a rock with black powder everywhere. Same black powder thats on the wheel after a long ride. So I had a used like new wheel that I swapped out, assuming the cush is much better in it. I can't tell any difference but would say that the original needed replaced.
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I figured they are cheap enough especially if you are ordering more parts. $25.
 
Jorge said:
What mileageare you up to these days Cliff?
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278,300.

laker9142 said:
I took mine apart at 155k. Just for a look around, not because I felt anything bad. It fell out in 3 pcs, was hard as a rock with black powder everywhere. Same black powder thats on the wheel after a long ride. So I had a used like new wheel that I swapped out, assuming the cush is much better in it. I can't tell any difference but would say that the original needed replaced.
Click to expand...

Juding by Davids post I might ought to take a little closer look.
 
RevZilla’s Common Tread and Shop Manual are great resources - thanks for sharing.

For inspecting the cush-drive I especially like the end of video method with a couple pieces of tape and rock the machine back and forth.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Not sure what to think of this. I assume it's the drive shaft turning. Is this excessive?
 

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Yes the drive shaft is turning. It's turning because of 2 cam-dampers in the driveline. One drives the clutch and one drives the front bevel drive. They are heavily spring loaded devices intended to cushion the jerking of the driveline while shifting. Chain drives don't need it because the chain itself absorbs the jerkiness.
 
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laker9142 said:
Yes the drive shaft is turning. It's turning because of 2 cam-dampers in the driveline. One drives the clutch and one drives the front bevel drive. They are heavily spring loaded devices intended to cushion the jerking of the driveline while shifting. Chain drives don't need it because the chain itself absorbs the jerkiness.
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Thanks Laker
 
laker9142 said:
Yes the drive shaft is turning. It's turning because of 2 cam-dampers in the driveline. One drives the clutch and one drives the front bevel drive. They are heavily spring loaded devices intended to cushion the jerking of the driveline while shifting. Chain drives don't need it because the chain itself absorbs the jerkiness.
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Surprised there isn’t a maintenance parameter for this no-disassembly measurement in the FSM.

Maybe someone with a brand new C-14 could measure their driveline slack and post - be at least an indicator…?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
2andblue said:
Surprised there isn’t a maintenance parameter for this no-disassembly measurement in the FSM.

Maybe someone with a brand new C-14 could measure their driveline slack and post - be at least an indicator…?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
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That would be valuable info. Easy enough to do, especially if on center stand as already.
 
2andblue said:
Maybe someone with a brand new C-14 could measure their driveline slack and post - be at least an indicator…?
Click to expand...
That may be difficult to replicate from one bike to another without removing the springs behind the male portion of the damper. As you can see in the pic below, the male radius rides in the female radius and is restricted by the spring in how far it can move before hitting a solid stop. The spring is pretty stiff, so I don't know if you can determine how far the engagement is, towards the solid stop. Spring is not shown. Picture is just for illustration, one piece is clutch, the other is output shaft. I bought the complete transmission for $25 just to get the male portion so I could hold the clutch in a vise.
 

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I was just turning mine free play to Freeplay. If I tried I could get it to move a little past that range. It didn't even feel like I was engaging a spring or anything.
 
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