I figured they are cheap enough especially if you are ordering more parts. $25.I took mine apart at 155k. Just for a look around, not because I felt anything bad. It fell out in 3 pcs, was hard as a rock with black powder everywhere. Same black powder thats on the wheel after a long ride. So I had a used like new wheel that I swapped out, assuming the cush is much better in it. I can't tell any difference but would say that the original needed replaced.
I believe he said he was at 280,000..What mileageare you up to these days Cliff?
What mileageare you up to these days Cliff?
I took mine apart at 155k. Just for a look around, not because I felt anything bad. It fell out in 3 pcs, was hard as a rock with black powder everywhere. Same black powder thats on the wheel after a long ride. So I had a used like new wheel that I swapped out, assuming the cush is much better in it. I can't tell any difference but would say that the original needed replaced.
Thanks LakerYes the drive shaft is turning. It's turning because of 2 cam-dampers in the driveline. One drives the clutch and one drives the front bevel drive. They are heavily spring loaded devices intended to cushion the jerking of the driveline while shifting. Chain drives don't need it because the chain itself absorbs the jerkiness.
Surprised there isn’t a maintenance parameter for this no-disassembly measurement in the FSM.Yes the drive shaft is turning. It's turning because of 2 cam-dampers in the driveline. One drives the clutch and one drives the front bevel drive. They are heavily spring loaded devices intended to cushion the jerking of the driveline while shifting. Chain drives don't need it because the chain itself absorbs the jerkiness.
That would be valuable info. Easy enough to do, especially if on center stand as already.Surprised there isn’t a maintenance parameter for this no-disassembly measurement in the FSM.
Maybe someone with a brand new C-14 could measure their driveline slack and post - be at least an indicator…?
Wayne, Carol & Blue
That may be difficult to replicate from one bike to another without removing the springs behind the male portion of the damper. As you can see in the pic below, the male radius rides in the female radius and is restricted by the spring in how far it can move before hitting a solid stop. The spring is pretty stiff, so I don't know if you can determine how far the engagement is, towards the solid stop. Spring is not shown. Picture is just for illustration, one piece is clutch, the other is output shaft. I bought the complete transmission for $25 just to get the male portion so I could hold the clutch in a vise.Maybe someone with a brand new C-14 could measure their driveline slack and post - be at least an indicator…?