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Custom crash bar

Whats it supposed to be protecting ? Canyon cages and the Trex bars are there to guard against expensive bodywork damage. Looks to me like this would put the impact on the bodywork...jmho
 
Interesting. I made those 9 or 10 years ago. That must be Mattchewn's old bike. The custom tip over bars are attached to custom brackets mounted to the engine cases. They have been tested by 3 of the 4 sets ever mounted to a C14. And tested to the extreme. The brackets held up well with no effect on the engine cases. I have many photos of how they're made, mounted and used. Also photos of how they held up and how they protected the bike in crashes. They were never intended as crash bars, only as tip over bars at 0 mph. But they did protect the bike and bodywork in every instance
Konehead34 said:
Looks to me like this would put the impact on the bodywork...jmho
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Must be the photo not really showing how they protect. I have better photos if anyone is interested. An added benefit is the blade type highway pegs
 
Thank you. The owner said it was Matt Needham's bike. I don't know him as I am not real active here- cause I don't own a Connie yet! I may go look at this bike. Is Matt on this forum? I had some questions and current owner doesn't work on it and said he may contact Matt with my questions.
 
laker9142 said:
Interesting. I made those 9 or 10 years ago. That must be Mattchewn's old bike. The custom tip over bars are attached to custom brackets mounted to the engine cases. They have been tested by 3 of the 4 sets ever mounted to a C14. And tested to the extreme. The brackets held up well with no effect on the engine cases. I have many photos of how they're made, mounted and used. Also photos of how they held up and how they protected the bike in crashes. They were never intended as crash bars, only as tip over bars at 0 mph. But they did protect the bike and bodywork in every instance

Must be the photo not really showing how they protect. I have better photos if anyone is interested. An added benefit is the blade type highway pegs
Click to expand...
These look like really simple nice protection for the fairing
 
hammerash said:
Is Matt on this forum? I had some questions and current owner doesn't work on it and said he may contact Matt with my questions
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Mattchewn is the Matt who owned that bike. He's a member here but not very active in the last couple years. He's got an H2 now. Excellent mechanic and a very good rider. If you can't get your answers let me know.
 
Laker, no disrespect intended. I personally would.love to see more pics..

With the departure of 'canyon cages' that leaves just t rex ... could be the ideal time to bring these back and make some money. Theres alot of people looking for canyon cages...
 
Also RG adventure bars.

I sent email today but haven't gotten response from owner. Maybe he is contacting Matt? Bike in DE. Owner did say he takes bike to Matt for work. Does that sound plausible?
 
Yep, matt was one of those guys who would offer to do valve adjusts, and rostra cruise control installs...
 
Konehead34 said:
With the departure of 'canyon cages' that leaves just* t rex ... c
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*...and Top Blocks that Murph sells. These were the only available tip over protection at the outset and I had to order mine from France and they were at least $200 more back then over what Murph wants for them now. I'm not trying to sell them for Murph, I'm just trying to keep the knowledge base/information accurate about what is available out there. Originally these are to protect the whole bike, but I'll admit with less than a very level surface and without a rider on the bike trying to resist the drop, they may allow some saddlebag damage. I combined top Blocks with the rear protection that canyon cage people sold (looks a lot like what T-Rex has now for the rear, although IMO T-Rex rears look better made.). Believe me I have unintentionally tested the combo system in parking lots, stop signs and yes even in my garage. With due respect for Laker's work, the Top Blocks appear to mount the same way, but they don't have hwy pegs like his do, although I believe some creative folks here could figure that addition out on their own.

More info from back in the day courtesy of Fred Harmon.--->https://pbase.com/fredharmon/topblock
 
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clicked the link to murphs top blocks. What does the front attach to? Is it similar to what you made, laker9142?
 
hammerash said:
What does the front attach to?
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Of your two questions, I can only answer this one. The top blocks have a piece on each side that mounts to the upper motor mount as shown in this right side photo --> https://pbase.com/fredharmon/image/134427757

This photo---> https://a4.pbase.com/o2/41/9841/1/134427754.EjVrcLHt.Top_Block014a.JPG shows both sides, the vertical black bars are the inside the fairing supports that drop down from the upper motor mounts and attach to the the outside the fairing bars in the front. I'm only assuming that laker's does something similar? I recall when Top Blocks were initially discussed on the forum back in the day most were worried about cutting the hole in the fairing in the correct spot, I'll admit to some personal hand-wringing before I cut mine as well. There are two different designs, one for GEN I and another for Gen II. The Gen I Top Blocks look much better in almost everyone's opinion.

IIRC the outside bar on the right side needs to be disconnected at the front and is simply rotated upward pivoting around the rear mount temporarily while doing a valve adjustment. The inner support bars are not removed ever again unless the engine needs to be removed for some reason.

Again, photos courtesy of Fred Harmon. -->https://pbase.com/fredharmon/topblock
 
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It took me three years to get them where I wanted them. I believe they are sturdier than the Top Blocks considering the front attachment points. There was some concern over what would happen to the motor in a crash. That concern has been addressed and there is no movement or damage to the engine. At the end of the pictures, you will see a mangled set from being wedged under a guardrail. I gave him a new set and they bolted right up. The other damage pictures are from my own bike where I lowsided, slid a ways, and stood the bike up at about 20mph and kept riding! Check out the gear shifter. both tires were off the ground! Mattchewns 2012 benefited twice. Once on the skyway where he actually broke the tubing, not the weld. The tubing is 4130n, 1.00" od x .065 wall. This was a good test to show failure of the tip over bars with no adverse effects on the motor or the mounting brackets. Another time Matt was trailering his bike (enclosed trailer) and found that after several hundred miles the bike had fallen on its side and had minimal damage, I think to the mirror or the handle bar. Another benefit that I enjoy is to put straps around them and lift the whole bike up, spin it 180 and set it back on the lift table for front end work.

I had a lot of fun developing these bars and do enjoy them. But they are very labor intensive. I enjoy the development not the production. If anybody wants a project, I've got good working drawings, fixtures and more pictures to help you out.

On the picture link, switch the sorting to old first, it'll make more sense.

www.amazon.com

David shared 86 photos with you

www.amazon.com
 
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