I mounted them in an aluminum channel assembled from two Home Depot 1½ inch angle extrusions. This should provide some protection, both from the elements, and from me banging into them when walking around the bike. I had considered hanging them under the Givi mounting brackets about even with the plate light, but then I decided that they would be even more protected right under the topcase just above the stock taillight. I bent some aluminum bar stock and mounted it on the back of the assembled channel. I then clamped the bar in position and drilled small pilot holes through both the bar stock and the Givi mounting brackets and then enlarged them separately to ¼ inch. Exclusive of the painted brackets, most of the mounting hardware that came with the light bars was Stainless. I replaced the four ¼-20 bolts that were not stainless, with stainless equivalents and purchased two stainless bolts and acorn nuts to attach the assembly to the Givi brackets.
Since the LEDs don’t go all the way to the ends of the bars I knew there would be a light- gap in the middle even if the light bars were touching, so I decided to purposely have a gap between them and just fill it with a red reflector. The gap also made it much easier to get at the inboard end screws of the light bars. The whole assembly measures 18 inches wide. I cut a piece of aluminum to fill the middle gap, and attached a reflector there, and a reflector on each end. The inboard turn signals are only used when I first turn on the bike or when the hazard flashers are on. I accomplished this by putting two 12v relays in series, each activated by opposite turn signal circuits which functions as in an electro-mechanical AND gate to activate the inboard turn signals. These light bars were not designed to work in pairs yet the initial 3 flashes are fairly well in sync. Overall I’m happy with the results, I think it is as visually present as if it was a full 18 inch light bar.
edit: Finally added a video. Not very good, which is why I didn't put it up in the first place. If I get a better one I'll
come back and replace this one.
https://vimeo.com/55235790
Since the LEDs don’t go all the way to the ends of the bars I knew there would be a light- gap in the middle even if the light bars were touching, so I decided to purposely have a gap between them and just fill it with a red reflector. The gap also made it much easier to get at the inboard end screws of the light bars. The whole assembly measures 18 inches wide. I cut a piece of aluminum to fill the middle gap, and attached a reflector there, and a reflector on each end. The inboard turn signals are only used when I first turn on the bike or when the hazard flashers are on. I accomplished this by putting two 12v relays in series, each activated by opposite turn signal circuits which functions as in an electro-mechanical AND gate to activate the inboard turn signals. These light bars were not designed to work in pairs yet the initial 3 flashes are fairly well in sync. Overall I’m happy with the results, I think it is as visually present as if it was a full 18 inch light bar.
edit: Finally added a video. Not very good, which is why I didn't put it up in the first place. If I get a better one I'll
come back and replace this one.
https://vimeo.com/55235790
I use my hazard flashers more than most do. I have the two center inboard turn signals hooked together, and they are powered by the tail light circuit through the two relays. Each relay’s trigger coil is hooked to the opposing turn signal, so unless both turn signals are activated the center inboard signals do not flash. When you first turn on the bike or when the hazard flashers are on then both relays are energized and the center signals flash. I mounted the two Radio Shack 1 amp relays (LEDs are low current draw so no heavy duty automotive relay was needed) to a circuit board, covered the solder joints and wires with epoxy and tape and stuffed the board in a foam sandwich under the seat. I also had to cut the plastic cover that is to the rear of the passenger seat for wire clearance as there were two Admore cables and the Givi case cable that had to go through there.
