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Educate me please......

sas mayhem

Street Cruiser
I'm looking at getting a 17" front wheel for my 06 Connie. The choices are from these bikes

Kawasaki ZR750 C1-C3 (1990-1993)
Kawasaki ZR7/ ZR7S F2/ H1-H5 (2000-2005)
Kawasaki ZX6 D1-D4 (1990-1993)
Kawasaki GPZ1100/ZX1100E (1995-1997)

question, I'm looking on ebay and I have found some wheels "but" what is the differance in the letters? C1-C2 or D1-D4 and so on? Sone of the ones that I have found don't say C1 or D4 ....etc

Cheers
Ron
 
The letters indicate a change in the model, i.e., a ZX600C is different than a ZX600D in some way that Kawasaki thought was significant.  The numbers indicate the year of the model, i.e., C1 is the first year of the C model, C2 is the second year, etc.  The C10's are all A's, i.e., A1 thru 20.  Usually the year is good enough when you're buying parts, but some bikes, like the ZX600C and D apparently overlap around 1991, so it is better for that year if you know the letter designation.  Hopefully that makes sense.
 
GF-in-CA said:
Thanks this was the one I was eyeing, too and he has the speed gear too.
Are you referring to the spacer between the bearing or the spacer on the outside?  To my understanding all the spacers on the outside are the same except for the Kawasaki ZR7/ ZR7S F2/ H1-H5 (2000-2005) which has a different p/n. Is this correct?

Cheers
Ron
 
That's correct, the right side spacer is different for the ZR7 wheel.  If the bearings are still in the wheel, you will likely get the center spacer, then it's a matter of finding the right side spacer.  You can buy them new for not a lot of money.
 
wow...them guys are pretty proud of their wheels.  :eek:

Ron, I'll be watching your results closely!  I've already got the 17 rear and going to a 17 front would be nice.  :beerchug:
 
GF-in-CA said:
That's correct, the right side spacer is different for the ZR7 wheel.  If the bearings are still in the wheel, you will likely get the center spacer, then it's a matter of finding the right side spacer.  You can buy them new for not a lot of money.

Ok so, if I get the wheel that I am eyeing, then the spacers(outside) will work correct?

Cheers
Ron
 
Sport Rider said:
wow...them guys are pretty proud of their wheels.  :eek:

Ron, I'll be watching your results closely!  I've already got the 17 rear and going to a 17 front would be nice.  :beerchug:

Yeah!!! Ditto, some of those sellers are nuts.  Even for damaged wheel there what a arm and a leg.  I'll let you know how everything goes.

Cheers
Ron
 
SAS Mayhem said:
Ok so, if I get the wheel that I am eyeing, then the spacers(outside) will work correct?

Cheers
Ron

I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you're asking if the Concours spacer will work, then the answer is no, the ZX600 spacer is a little longer than the Concours spacer.  You will still need to get the right side spacer (and the speedo drive) for the ZX600 (or GPZ1100) for the wheel to fit.  The Kawasaki part number for the spacer is 92143-1335, and is about $11 from Ron Ayers.  With the ZX600 spacers and speedo drive, the overall width of the spacers, wheel bearings, and speedo drive is the same as the Concours.

HTH,
 
GF-in-CA said:
SAS Mayhem said:
Ok so, if I get the wheel that I am eyeing, then the spacers(outside) will work correct?

Cheers
Ron

I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you're asking if the Concours spacer will work, then the answer is no, the ZX600 spacer is a little longer than the Concours spacer.  You will still need to get the right side spacer (and the speedo drive) for the ZX600 (or GPZ1100) for the wheel to fit.  The Kawasaki part number for the spacer is 92143-1335, and is about $11 from Ron Ayers.  With the ZX600 spacers and speedo drive, the overall width of the spacers, wheel bearings, and speedo drive is the same as the Concours.

HTH,

Super I get it now,  ;D also thanks for posting the link. I brain farted.

Cheers
Ron
 
Cool.  If you have any more questions, let me know, otherwise, have fun!  :motonoises:
 
GF-in-CA said:
Cool.  If you have any more questions, let me know, otherwise, have fun!  :motonoises:

Thanks Gary I'll let you know if I have any other questions.  I just ordered the wheel,speed drive and spacer.  'll be ordering my tires next month, I might go with BT's, so far I'm undecided.

Sport Rider, I'll keep you in the loop too.  The main reason I'm going to 17" is availability. When I first needed to get tires for my Connie, I call every cycle shop within 50 miles of my house.  The only place that had them was a Kawasaki dealer, but they were the OEM tires, which I did'nt want.  All other places had to order them (AVON). I ended up getting them from http://www.compacc.com/index.cfm faster and cheaper than all the places I looked at .  So I thought since I ride a lot (everyday) and in the mountains it would really suck to have a cruise cut short waiting for tires. Soooo hence the reason for the 17" upgrade.  Every time I go into a cycle shop they all had 17" tires and at least 3-4 different makes.

Cheers
Ron
 
Thanks Ron.  For me it's because I have a sportbike that runs 17s.  I have several tires from it that I used on the track.  Since they still have good tread for street use, I can run them on the connie, which I use as my every-day ride.
 
SAS Mayhem said:
Thanks Gary I'll let you know if I have any other questions.  I just ordered the wheel,speed drive and spacer.  'll be ordering my tires next month, I might go with BT's, so far I'm undecided.

Great, sounds like you're all set.  One thing I'm not aware of anyone doing yet is to mount a different fender with the 17" wheel.  The C10 fender leaves a lot of room between it and the tire, and looks a little funny.  I think a ZR7 or ZX600 fender might fit, but so far I don't think anyone has tried it.
 
GF-in-CA said:
Great, sounds like you're all set.  One thing I'm not aware of anyone doing yet is to mount a different fender with the 17" wheel.  The C10 fender leaves a lot of room between it and the tire, and looks a little funny.  I think a ZR7 or ZX600 fender might fit, but so far I don't think anyone has tried it.

Thanks for that info, I'm going to shoot the seller of the wheel I got and ask him to check. I'll keep you posted.

Cheer
Ron
 
Well so far I got everything, sans the wheel.  I have a set of bearings and seals from my OEM wheel set up,(I believe that there the same size) If so I'll put them in, and I'll need to strip and paint the wheel too. I want it purty.  Next month I'll be doing the swap after I get my new tires.


Cheers
Ron
 
Yes, the bearings and seals are the same, so you should be good to go.  As for painting, I used Duplicolor wheel paint, and am very pleased so far.
 
GF-in-CA said:
Yes, the bearings and seals are the same, so you should be good to go.  As for painting, I used Duplicolor wheel paint, and am very pleased so far.

Thanks for that info, I really want to paint my bike Fred. But dang !!! I don't get down time on her. In the last 18 months I've put 30,000 miles on her. I do preventive maint, and roll..... she never skips a beat.  I'm praying for some serious snow and ice to get her off the road. LOL

Cheers
Ron
 
SAS Mayhem said:
GF-in-CA said:
Yes, the bearings and seals are the same, so you should be good to go.  As for painting, I used Duplicolor wheel paint, and am very pleased so far.

Thanks for that info, I really want to paint my bike Fred. But dang !!! I don't get down time on her. In the last 18 months I've put 30,000 miles on her. I do preventive maint, and roll..... she never skips a beat.  I'm praying for some serious snow and ice to get her off the road. LOL

Cheers
Ron

Hold on there a minute.....let's not get carried away!!!  ???
 
Sport Rider said:
Hold on there a minute.....let's not get carried away!!!  ???

LOL, I hear you my friend ....just enough to keep me off the road for 5 days, which here in NC, is about 1/32 of a inch to paralyze this state.

Cheers
Ron
 
I am about to join the group. 17" Front wheel is on its way!

Now I have to find a 17" rear!

Is Kosman and or a mean-streak rear the only options???? anyone? 
 
You will be pleased when your finished.

The Kosman and the Mean Streak are the only current options until the next option is discovered. Much labor and research goes into finding these options...and I applaud those persons for their labors.

You can find the spacers at your local dealer. Ordered of course. I used the ZX6D speedo drive from Ron Ayers and my speedometer errors is usually 1% or less in comparison to gps based on several thousand of miles traveled since mod.

I'm very interested in any solutions to the 17inch fender substitution.
 
Handyman is correct, those are the only two real options.  Some owners have made one-off welded up wheels using the spokes and rim from one motorcycle and the hub from a C10, but you really have to know what you're doing to be safe with that option.  I actually think it is great that we have more than one option, given the specific hub dimensions required for the shaft drive.  Swapping wheels is much easier with a chain drive.

BTW, I read that Kosman has changed ownership, and that workmanship and customer service has suffered as a result.  Can anyone confirm that?
 
GF-in-CA said:
BTW, I read that Kosman has changed ownership, and that workmanship and customer service has suffered as a result.  Can anyone confirm that?

First I've heard of this (but I wouldn't be all that surprised necessarily). Sanford (Sandy) Kosman is the original owner and he isn't getting any younger. He doesn't do any of the actual work at the outfit, his expert designers and machinists do. He is really a spark plug, he's got more energy and ideas than most people I know or have ever met.

If in fact he has retired I think he would go nuts sitting around with nothing to do (that's just my opinion). He is quite a character, an engaging personality. He joked that I would put his motorcycle wheel (Concours) modification enterprise out of business when I showed up with a Mean Streak wheel for his machinists to modify. It was intended as a compliment of course.

Interesting story: Within minutes of having first met Sandy he could tell I had some knowledge and capabilites. He gave me a complete tour of his facilities and showed me dozens of projects he had underway. He was constantly asking me what I thought and asked my opinion on several design related issues, some generic, some pretty gnarly. This guy wasn't afraid to try anything, very creative. I went there intending on dropping off my wheel and ended up staying for more than three hours looking over all kinds of cool projects.

On their website (http://kosmanspecialties.com/) they do announce a change in ownership but Sandy is still doing the wheel conversion business. I would recommend giving Sandy a call, he is a great guy to talk to.

Dan
 
Dan,

I read about the issues on the ZG/GTR forum, apparently someone there had a wheel done, and there were issues with runout that Kosman was reluctant to do anything about.  It may have been an isolated incident,  so I was hoping others could share any recent experience that could confirm or negate it.
 
SAS Mayhem said:
GF-in-CA said:
I think a ZR7 or ZX600 fender might fit, but so far I don't think anyone has tried it.

What year will I be looking at Gary?

Cheers
Ron

You might want to look at a ZRX front fender also to see if it might fit:

2524086100053667879S600x600Q85.jpg


Dan
 
SAS Mayhem said:
GF-in-CA said:
I think a ZR7 or ZX600 fender might fit, but so far I don't think anyone has tried it.

What year will I be looking at Gary?

Cheers
Ron

For the ZX7 or ZX6 fenders, it would be the same years as the compatible wheels, plus I think the later model ZX6 (1994 to 1998?) might work, too.  As Dan mentioned, the ZRX is a possibility, too, though the ZX6 fenders seem to be the most plentiful, at least on eBay.  Perhaps one like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX6-600-Front-Fender-No-Cracks-/300612525845?hash=item45fde71f15&item=300612525845&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

It looks scuffed but paintable.

 
Well Damn you all!  What with this talk about 17" this and 17" that did you think I would lay down and just take this heresy!  :32:

This specious brand of blaspheny has no place here!  :96:

Oh no, no no! THIS WILL NOT DUE!

Being adamantly against this evil trend and in an attempt to save someone else from this aweful mistake I, with great benevolence, have decided to remove two of these offending items from the marketplace.

I now own a  ZX6 front rim and a Mean Streak (with rotor) rear rim.  :p

In order to know my foe I must learn their ways and only through this pursuit to gain knowledge from the darkside will I be able to ascertain the truth!

Therefore I ask, you sinners, to bear great strength and lay down your methods of deceit so I may too learn the true nature of your affliction.

(In other words I'll be bugging you guys until I get it right!)

Whoa is me, but this is a task I must pursue.  For the cause is just and true!    ;)

(More to follow...........  Oh yes I will pretend to be ignorant, stupid and clumsy in my mechanical aptitute, so do not think more of me as you will be fooled by your own pride of wisdom through my vail of idiotic and inane questions! But I will prevail!  :-[ )  I will prevail!  :72:

 
2linby said:
I now own a  ZX6 front rim and a Mean Streak (with rotor) rear rim.  :p

The meanstreak rear rotor will not work with the Connie caliper.  you need a nomad front rotor that's 280 mm.  (it's been a while, so if I'm wrong on that, someone please correct me).
 
Sport Rider said:
2linby said:
I now own a  ZX6 front rim and a Mean Streak (with rotor) rear rim.  :p

The meanstreak rear rotor will not work with the Connie caliper.  you need a nomad front rotor that's 280 mm.  (it's been a while, so if I'm wrong on that, someone please correct me).
The only problem with the Meanstreak rotor is that it is 10mm too large.  I turned mine down and it's been working fine for over two years.  THe rotor IS pretty hard and cutting into the holes on a lathe ruined a few bits, but take it slow and you can avoid that or use a mill and that should work fine.
 
Thanks Bergman and GF-in-CA, I'll work with one of those ideas.
Sport Rider, welcome to the Darkside....  :beerchug:

Cheers
Ron
 
Sport Rider said:
Have you ridden on the new wheel yet?
I'm not sure who this was aimed at, but I have ridden the Meanstreak wheel for two years now and have been running the 170/60-17 Roadsmart tire.  I'm thinking next time I need to go to the narrower/taller tire.  I personally felt the bike handled better with its original wheel tire combo and Avons.  I will certainly be trying different tires.  Probably Michelin PR3s next time and if I don't like that, I'll go back to Avons.  The Roadsmart is good traction for accel/decel, but I'm not all that impressed in the rain (its big selling feature) and its dry cornering isn't that impressive either.  If I can't herd it around corners I'm not interested.  WHile the larger rim and short profile of the 170 tire SHOULD yield a larger contact patch, and consequently better grip, I'm not at all convinced the Roadsmarts are MY kind of tire.  I particularly didn't like the RPM increase of the 170/60 tire either as it makes the desire for a seventh gear doubly exaggerated. LOL
 
Rev Ryder said:
Sport Rider said:
Have you ridden on the new wheel yet?
I'm not sure who this was aimed at, but I have ridden the Meanstreak wheel for two years now and have been running the 170/60-17 Roadsmart tire.  I'm thinking next time I need to go to the narrower/taller tire.  I personally felt the bike handled better with its original wheel tire combo and Avons.  I will certainly be trying different tires.  Probably Michelin PR3s next time and if I don't like that, I'll go back to Avons.  The Roadsmart is good traction for accel/decel, but I'm not all that impressed in the rain (its big selling feature) and its dry cornering isn't that impressive either.  If I can't herd it around corners I'm not interested.  WHile the larger rim and short profile of the 170 tire SHOULD yield a larger contact patch, and consequently better grip, I'm not at all convinced the Roadsmarts are MY kind of tire.  I particularly didn't like the RPM increase of the 170/60 tire either as it makes the desire for a seventh gear doubly exaggerated. LOL

Chuck, if you lived closer I'd let you borrow my MS wheel with the 160/70 on it so you could do a direct comparo. I have not ridden with the 170/60 so I can't advise on that. BUT, the 160/70 is slightly taller than the stock 150/80 ZR16 so it does help with lowering highway rpm a smidge. Along with the 7th gear, it works wonders.

Also, I think there is something in the profile differences. The 160/70 is narrower and taller where the 170/60 is wider. In my case, the 160/70 is in perfect harmony with the profile of the front which is a 120/70 ZR17 (I run Storm 2 Ultras F/R).

Dan
 
Rev Ryder said:
Sport Rider said:
Have you ridden on the new wheel yet?
I'm not sure who this was aimed at, but I have ridden the Meanstreak wheel for two years now and have been running the 170/60-17 Roadsmart tire.  I'm thinking next time I need to go to the narrower/taller tire.  I personally felt the bike handled better with its original wheel tire combo and Avons.  I will certainly be trying different tires.  Probably Michelin PR3s next time and if I don't like that, I'll go back to Avons.  The Roadsmart is good traction for accel/decel, but I'm not all that impressed in the rain (its big selling feature) and its dry cornering isn't that impressive either.  If I can't herd it around corners I'm not interested.  WHile the larger rim and short profile of the 170 tire SHOULD yield a larger contact patch, and consequently better grip, I'm not at all convinced the Roadsmarts are MY kind of tire.  I particularly didn't like the RPM increase of the 170/60 tire either as it makes the desire for a seventh gear doubly exaggerated. LOL

Thanks Rev, but I was aiming that to Ron to see if he's got the front on yet and how he feels about it.  I'm running the MS rear now.  My first tire on it has been a shinko 009 in a 170/60 size.  it's definitely raised the RPMs, but now that I'm used to it, I don't find it an issue.  Otherwise, my results have been positive.  My next step will be the 17 front.  Maybe my winter project if I can get some other things out of the way.  :)
 
Dave,
Sorry to get in the way.  I have the 17 front, but since it is with different forks, etc. it's not a fair comparison so I'll just leave that alone.

Dan,
Yeah, I don't know if it will be better with just a different tire.  The Roadsmarts had such great press when they came out and since I've never been totally happy with the Azaro in the rain I thought I'd give them a go.  I haven't gotten to ride all that much the last two years, but I can say that I've put about 6k on these tires which is almost twice what I could get from the Azaro/Storm combo in stock sizes.  My first priority ALWAYS is grip with wear a secondary but still important thing.  I've also run a set of Pilot Powers (not the 2C) and they were incredible for stick, but only good for about 1500 miles of awesome riding before they went away and were just funky, cupped, and flat worn out.  If I could get 4-5k out of a set of tires and feel safe under power I'd be thrilled.  I know I can over power any tire in a corner, but... 

I have to admit my naivete, from the magazine reviews I expected the Roadsmarts to rival the Avons for dry stick, excel over them in the rain, while still delivering improved mileage.  The mileage is all I thought it would be, but the rest has been disappointing though cupping (a real issue for me) is not too bad.  My overall opinion is nothing beats a decent Michelin in the rain (their silica content is generally higher than others), nothing beats an avon in the dry, and higher mileage ALMOST ALWAYS means less grip.  Still looking for that perfect combo.  At least with the 17" rims I have choices to compare, so I reckon the search goes on.  I'd love to try out the Storm 2 ultra rear without buying a set. LOL 
 
Rev,

Have you considered any of the Shinko line?  I have some 011's on right now, and am really happy with them.  They've done everything I've asked of them, including a lot of tight twisties and 2 up and haven't put a foot wrong yet.  I like the turn in with them, and they seem to hold a line pretty well.  I had some 009's and they seem to want to fall into the turn more than I like, but I like these.  I'm also really happy with the wear, especially since I heard that they are a low mileage tire.  So far I have 3000 miles on them, and it looks like I'll get at least double that. One thing I don't do a lot of is ride in the rain, and the 011's don't look to have a good rain tread, but I can't really say how well they do there.  I really want to try the Avons I have in the garage, but have to wait a little longer than I expected, which is not a bad thing in this case LOL.  I haven't worked my way through a lot of tires like you have, nor do I have a turbo, but it may be worth looking in to, especially for the price.
 
Sport Rider said:
Rev Ryder said:
Sport Rider said:
Have you ridden on the new wheel yet?
I'm not sure who this was aimed at, but I have ridden the Meanstreak wheel for two years now and have been running the 170/60-17 Roadsmart tire.  I'm thinking next time I need to go to the narrower/taller tire.  I personally felt the bike handled better with its original wheel tire combo and Avons.  I will certainly be trying different tires.  Probably Michelin PR3s next time and if I don't like that, I'll go back to Avons.  The Roadsmart is good traction for accel/decel, but I'm not all that impressed in the rain (its big selling feature) and its dry cornering isn't that impressive either.  If I can't herd it around corners I'm not interested.  WHile the larger rim and short profile of the 170 tire SHOULD yield a larger contact patch, and consequently better grip, I'm not at all convinced the Roadsmarts are MY kind of tire.  I particularly didn't like the RPM increase of the 170/60 tire either as it makes the desire for a seventh gear doubly exaggerated. LOL

Thanks Rev, but I was aiming that to Ron to see if he's got the front on yet and how he feels about it.  I'm running the MS rear now.  My first tire on it has been a shinko 009 in a 170/60 size.  it's definitely raised the RPMs, but now that I'm used to it, I don't find it an issue.  Otherwise, my results have been positive.  My next step will be the 17 front.  Maybe my winter project if I can get some other things out of the way.  :)

Sorry Sport Rider, no not yet, since I have time I'm going to roll he dice an order that other fender to see if I can close the gap, to make it look more uniformed.

Cheers
Ron
 
Gee...you would think a guy would post some pictures of the gap, wouldn't you?  ???

;) ;) ;)

(if you happen to have any or could take some, I'm curious to see what the gap looks like.)

:beerchug:
 
GF-in-CA said:
It doesn't sound like Ron has installed his wheel yet, but handyman posted a picture of the 17" wheel with the original fender in another thread:

http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,29166.msg127478.html#msg127478

Also, there is a picture of a C10 with the original fender at the end of the tech article for the wheel swap.

HTH,

Your right I don't even have the tires yet. But I will post a before and after pic, Sport Rider.

Cheers
Ron
 
this project is going way too slow!  I'm going to have to order mine and pass ya!  :p

Hope my posts don't offend you.  just some good-natured ribbing.  :)
 
hey...I was reading another thread discussing raising the fender for clearance reasons by slotting the bolt holes.  I wonder if that would work the other way to lower the fender for the 17 inch wheel.  Hmmm....
 
Lowering the fender will decrease the separation, but it will not eliminate the difference in radius issue. The front and rear of the fender will still stick out a fair amount from the tire.

I'm looking into the ZR7 fender option as the forks have the same first serial number series as the Connie. Then there is the paint issue...
 
handyman said:
Lowering the fender will decrease the separation, but it will not eliminate the difference in radius issue. The front and rear of the fender will still stick out a fair amount from the tire.

I'm looking into the ZR7 fender option as the forks have the same first serial number series as the Connie. Then there is the paint issue...

Look around and you should be able to find someone who knows how to paint plastic auto and motorcycle parts. I found a kid who worked at a local body shop who specialized in this type of painting. My fender was Kawasaki green (didn't go too well with Candy Cardinal Red) and he matched the color perfectly and it looks like it came from the factory that way. Cost me $50.00, I was glad to pay it.

Dan
 
Found a machine shop to modify my new to me, Mean Streak rear wheel and rotor for 2.5 hrs shop time at $55.00 per.  Once this is done I'll replace the bearings and seals. Ordered the ZX6 speedo and as soon as I have both wheels ready I am thinking about power coating them both in either the orignal gray or black leaving the leading edge of the rim the raw brushed alumimum look.  The ZX6 is a darker gray than the Connies wheels and the mean streak is the brushed bright aluminum.  I currently have lots of rubber left on my Connie front so I will not be replacing it until necessary, (spring) More to follow when it happens.  :)
 
Well my tires should be here tomorrow, and I have the Ninja front fender. Just by eye balling it, it looks like it will work.  I just finished paint the 17" wheel too. So by this weekend I hope to be done with the front wheel set up.

hows it going at your end  Sport Rider?

Cheers
Ron
 
SAS Mayhem said:
Well my tires should be here tomorrow, and I have the Ninja front fender. Just by eye balling it, it looks like it will work.  I just finished paint the 17" wheel too. So by this weekend I hope to be done with the front wheel set up.

hows it going at your end  Sport Rider?

Cheers
Ron

How did you paint your wheels?  Rattle can? or something different? Product? Thx
 
2linby said:
SAS Mayhem said:
Well my tires should be here tomorrow, and I have the Ninja front fender. Just by eye balling it, it looks like it will work.  I just finished paint the 17" wheel too. So by this weekend I hope to be done with the front wheel set up.

hows it going at your end  Sport Rider?

Cheers
Ron

How did you paint your wheels?  Rattle can? or something different? Product? Thx

I went with Dupli color Silver and clear coat. I've always had good results with Dupli color. For durability.

Cheers
Ron
 
2linby, here goes a before and after shot of my 17 inch wheels. I de-greased  it and wet sanded the wheel with 600 grit and de-greased it again. And shot several light coats of Dupli-color Wheel paint silver followed by the several coats of there wheel gloss clear coat

Before
ricky001.jpg


After
ricky.jpg


I installed the Ninja front fender too, it bolts right up...kinda.  The mounting holes are just a tad off. You can either bolt up the front two bolts or the rear two bolts, with no issue. the other two bolt holes are just off by maybe a 1/16th of an inch. So a quick tap with the dremel is all you need to get the other two bolts in.
I'll post a pic of the fender installed once photobucket is done with there site maintenance.  ???

Cheers
Ron
 
Thanks ChipDoc, here are the pictures of the Ninja fender. I painted it with a Dupli color rattle can, from Auto Zone. The Dark Blue Pearl (8P4) is real close to the 06 color.

The on the left is our Connies and the right a 91 Ninja
ricky002.jpg


Now is was very surprised how good the Ninja front fender look with a OEM front wheel (18inch)and tire combo seen here. The gap is close but plenty of room.
ricky003.jpg


and one more close up.
ricky004.jpg


FYI the fender extender that some of us have will not work with the Ninja fender, without major surgery.
FYI II- That tire is a Ultra Storm 2 with 16,000+ miles in it.

Cheers
Ron
 
Ron,

Thanks for posting the pictures. I am still waiting on my rear from the machine shop.  If the local powder coater is too expensive its Dupli-color for me too!
 
2linby said:
Ron,

Thanks for posting the pictures. I am still waiting on my rear from the machine shop.  If the local powder coater is too expensive its Dupli-color for me too!
No problem 2linby here is the finished product with notes.

This is the clearance with my new rubber Shinko Raven 120/70-17 and the Ninja front fender. Pretty much a straight install with the correct part from the list mentioned at the beginning of this post. I cant believe how close the Dupli color is either  :)
ricky012.jpg


Here is another shot so you can see the complete job.
ricky013.jpg


OK now for the rear, not so much an issue just be prepared. With the mean streak rear wheel and the Bridgestone 020 170/60-17 tire I had no issue installng and removing this comb. But the Shinko Raven 170/60-17 was another story, it was wider and the only way I was able just to get in I had to remove the hub assembly (4bolts) to get room the get the tire up, and that even with a bobbed tail that I have. Not a big issue it only added 2 minutes to the install, just be prepared.  And one final note is the center stand , hits this combo too. I just took my dermel in grind off  less that 1/2 inch of the right inside radius to clear the tire
ricky015.jpg


And here is the final product. I did a quick 50m mile ride just to see how it felt. I was very surprised that I felt the height change as soon as I got on the bike, more comfortable for me being a tad lower. As far as riding the bike "seemed" to steer quicker. I'm not sold yet on that tho... I had to take it easy with the new shoes. But I felt that the steering input was quicker, I went on a on ramp at about 45-50, and I leaned like I always do and she "seemed" to move right faster that  expected. I was heading to the white line quick... but I need to ride more to see after the tires get worked in.
ricky011.jpg


Cheers
Ron

 
SAS Mayhem said:
No problem 2linby here is the finished product with notes.

This is the clearance with my new rubber Shinko Raven 120/70-17 and the Ninja front fender. Pretty much a straight install with the correct part from the list mentioned at the beginning of this post. I cant believe how close the Dupli color is either  :)

To summarize the parts, as I am too lazy to reread all this again, That is the new front wheel itself, the proper axle spacer, speedometer gear, and the Ninja Front Fender. Wheel bearings if needed.

I guess I forgot how come the Ninja Front fender ?
 
Yeap!!! Strictly visual appeal, Slybones. The Ninja fender closes the gap between the tire and fender better that the stock did.

Cheers
Ron
 
Sport Rider said:
Looks great Ron!  thanks for posting the info so we could follow along!

...and glad the girl got a bath!  ;)

I gave her a quick rub down just for you !!!!  :nananana:

Cheers
Ron
 
Yes, Sandy isn't running the shop anymore.  the new guy is having some growing pains.  Looks like he is an ok guy, just fighting some management bugs.  I suspect it'll be squared away soon.
 
Ron, it looks great, glad the ZX fender worked out. 

As for the clearance issue with the centerstand, it's interesting that I used the same model and size of tire with my Mean Streak wheel, and didn't have an issue with clearance with the stock stand.  When I shortened the stop pad on the CS to get more ground clearance, the right side was very close.  I have heard of others having an issue on the left side, so this supports my feeling that there is enough of a variance in centerstands that some will interfere while others won't.  You're right, it isn't a big deal, and my solution was the same as yours, a quick grinding away of the foot pad to gain the necessary clearance.
 
GF-in-CA said:
Ron, it looks great, glad the ZX fender worked out. 

When I shortened the stop pad on the CS to get more ground clearance...

Hummm !!!!. I have a bumper pad on my CS, but I noticed that it is NOT in contact with anything, nothing is even close. But there is a vacant hole/bracket in my left muffler in the area. I went and took a look at Ronayers http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Muffler(s)_/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/3245/Model/Concours/GroupID/331158/Group/Muffler(s)_ fiche and pn# 92075-92075-1002 DAMPER RUBBER, in MIA ??? is THAT the pad that the one on the CS is supposed to contact?

Cheers
Ron
 
That's the one!  My guess is if you had the pad in place, there would be quite a bit more clearance.  ;)  As it is, you have more ground clearance.  :motonoises:
 
GF-in-CA said:
That's the one!  My guess is if you had the pad in place, there would be quite a bit more clearance.  ;)  As it is, you have more ground clearance.  :motonoises:

Okay thanks GF-in-CA..  :beerchug:

and one more side note about the Mean Streak wheel, is that the Meanstreak wheel uses a smaller diameter stem than the C10, I was just reminded of that.

Cheers
Ron
 
SAS Mayhem said:
and one more side note about the Mean Streak wheel, is that the Meanstreak wheel uses a smaller diameter stem than the C10, I was just reminded of that.

Cheers
Ron

This is correct, this is also mentioned in the article.  The Kawasaki part number for the valve stem is 16126-1191.  It is a nice all metal 90 degree stem.
 
I finally got my Mean Streak rear wheel back from the machine shop having the stock MS rotor cut down to 280mm and the rotor mounting surface machined down .300". Bearings, seals, spacer and cush drive removed from the rear wheel and the rotors, bearings, seal, spacer and speedo hub removed from the front wheel.

I am having the wheels powder coated a medium dark gray (pretty much as the stock Connie wheel color) next week and hope to have my new tires, bearings and seals and speedo hub in before too long.

Before pictures:

Rear wheel before removal of rotor
2206448060052071584S600x600Q85.jpg


Rotor mounting surface machined
2699011380052071584S600x600Q85.jpg


Front wheel
2664575830052071584S600x600Q85.jpg


After pictures to follow, well........after!  :)
 
Rev Ryder said:
YAY!  Welcome to the Meanie Club.

Not quite yet, but getting there!    :)  BTW powder coating for both wheels is only $75.00!  nice!

Looking at new tires now could be be a set of Shinko's (cheapest) or Pilot Roads or RoadSmarts, I just don't know yet...... Any suggestions?  I am a medium agressive rider who loves long rides in the moonlight, err.......  or should I shoot the breeze with a sportier set for my first new 17" shoes?
 
I'm running the Roadsmarts right now and like em OK.  But I want to go for the PR3s next I think.
 
Rev Ryder said:
I'm running the Roadsmarts right now and like em OK.  But I want to go for the PR3s next I think.

Yeah I was also looking at the Pirelli's.......... choices, choices, choices........... nice!  ;)
 
Mayhem: those are terrific tires. I've put a knee down with those on my zzr many a times. How are you liking em?

Anyone got a good source for thick fork oil? I'm using straight 30wt motor oil and there is still not enough dampening for my taste. I want 40wt straight oil.

Also, the 15wt hvi fluid in the rear shock is too thin. What is there in the way of 20wt? What will happen if I use regular 20wt bel ray fork oil in the rear shock?

Serious replies only. Do not tell me conjecture or theories about how 10wt works fine for you and your wimpy springs.
 
I was pretty happy with the Roadsmart in the 170 size. It only lasted 7500 miles, but that was alot of twisties and the tread was gone from edge to edge when I pulled it off. All those miles were with a touring load riding aggresively. Still running the Roadsmart on the front with a Storm II 160 on the rear now. I have no complaints with either tire and would give both a thumbs up rating. Running a fresh set of PR3's on the Bandit and they feel good so far, but have not been out in the twisties with them. Tires...
 
Just got my wheels back from the powder coating. I will start putting them together tomorrow.

They look much better than the pictures show, but here they are, Finally getting closer!!

Rear with black pwder coated cut down rear rotor (not bolted done yet).  I had the rear Mean Streak Rotor cut down to 280 mm (note the "open" holes on the edges, but they powder coated too much of the braking surface material so I'll be burning off some paint with my old pads before putting on new ones! Yikes!  (my fault  :-[)

2333157530052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Rotor side of rear wheel.

2862022050052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Cush Drive side of rear wheel

2822952420052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Front wheel

2078685340052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Both together (new tires Conti-motions 120/70/17 and 170/60-17 just behind and right next to the turbo charged carpet cleaner!  :nananana:

2127843610052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Bearings, seals, spacers, stems and tires mounted today. I hope to find time this week to pull the stock wheel and switch the front rotors out then mount these babies. Turn signals will be done as soon as my connectors show up I am also adding two new led round panel switches for my driving/running lights and a new fuse panel to replace my old homemade one. Also replacing fork seals that are leaking. Should look good and hopefully be good when I am done.

2673749290052071584S600x600Q85.jpg
 
Rev Ryder said:
They look schweet!

Thanks!  I hope to be able to get the bearing, spacers, seals, cush drive and rotors done tomorrow and maybe mount the tires as well.  I am hoping to be able to get a digital recorder and film? putting the bike up in the air using my sears ATV jack for Cog wiki.  But that might not happen.

Still waiting on some electrical connectors and getting my original Skip Holton Tip over Bars powder coated as well, (glossy black, oh yeah!).  Re-wired my running (fog) and driving lights (FF-50's) and re-did my rear turn signals so they are three wire (two filament) rear running (constant on) and turn signal lamps as well.  Lots of things going on here in the great rainy Northwet region! 

More to follow....  :beerchug:
 
Tires mounted and holding air! but the weather sucked so bad today, no love on getting them balanced and installed. Still have a leaking fork seal that needs to be fixed, but that won't take too long, as I'll fix that inbetween mounting the front wheel.  My electrical connectors will be here on friday, so unless it starts snowing (it might) I hope to have the bike buttoned up and on the road. I also had the powder coater redo my Skip Holton tip over bars and man do they look good!  More pictures to follow. Maybe even a pictorial of how to lift Connie on a Sears Lift.
 
douglasjre said:
Mayhem: those are terrific tires. I've put a knee down with those on my zzr many a times. How are you liking em?

douglasjre, I really do like them, as far as my riding style there is nothing I can't do that I did with my AVON's, also on a side note, they really do an outstanding job treading water.

Those really look great, excellent choice of color.  ;)

Cheers
Ron
 
For the most part my saga is over! THANK GOD!!! I fired my parts man for failure to order the right axle spacer, but with a little ingenuity I was able to find and jerry rig the Connie front hub spacer (the outside 15mm one) by adding a 4mm thick spacer washer. The right part is on order!~

My bearing issue was hammered out as well and today I put about 50 miles on the new tires and wheels for my initial break-in.

Bore diameter of the right?wrong! bearings.... These should be 17mm bore diameter but are barely 16mm!  :mad:

2047040320052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Front wheel. more of a gap than before, but I'll live with it just fine.

2180561520052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Rear Wheel

2423335320052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Rear view of the Conti-motion 170/60-17 tire  Ouch! That looks mean!  ;)

2660214160052071584S600x600Q85.jpg

Rightside of rear wheel with cut down mean streak rear rotor

2985824900052071584S600x600Q85.jpg


 
Excellent!  Glad you got er done, it looks great.  Be sure to give us a review of the Conti-motion once you've got a few more miles.
 
Hooooo doggies!  You're about set to let er rip now.  Those Contis do look pretty good on there.  I just spooned (beat) a set of Conti Trail Attacks on a friend's KLR250 last night.  REminded me of how much I love shaft drive and tubeless tires.  LOL

THe scooter's lookin' good Bob.  See you in Eureka Springs? 
 
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