Factory tools for Front Fork service. Two different styles of tool?

[Jjjtx]

Does anyone with a KAW manual know why the service manual shows, at least to me, using to different spring compressors on the front forks when, I think both fork tubes are the same left/right?


The one looks like an old JEEP bumper jack, and the other one has two handles with rods on each side.  Are the two " spring compressors " doing something different that I'm glossing over?


Page 13-9 ( 2015 year)

 

[smithr]

I don't have the manual here but this is what I got and I did both forks with it.

http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Service-Tool-Kit/

All you really need is...
http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Spring-Compressor-Kit-4017/
http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Bleed-Tool-Universal-0-0/

 

[syxxphive]

The one with two handles is the part that clamps on the plastic spacer underneath the cap. There two holes in it that the go into. The other tool attaches to the bottom of the fork tube to actually compress the spring.

I just used the traxxion compressor tool and a single ratchet strap.

 

[Jjjtx]

The one with two handles is the part that clamps on the plastic spacer underneath the cap. There two holes in it that the go into. The other tool attaches to the bottom of the fork tube to actually compress the spring.

I just used the traxxion compressor tool and a single ratchet strap.

Yeah I was wondering why the need for the jeep style jack.


I was looking at Traxxion's site after a search here and it looks like the tools you need to change the fork seals and dump /  change the fluid is pretty reasonably priced. 

 

[syxxphive]

They’re not bad at all. The pulling rod is an absolute must. Once you pull the cap off and let the tension off the spring, that sucker is gone. Lol. If you do replace the seals, make sure the jam nut under the cap has the proper thread length above it. I think it’s 12mm. If you have the wrong the spacing, the damping adjustment won’t work right and possible damage could result.

 

[Jjjtx]

They’re not bad at all. The pulling rod is an absolute must. Once you pull the cap off and let the tension off the spring, that sucker is gone. Lol. If you do replace the seals, make sure the jam nut under the cap has the proper thread length above it. I think it’s 12mm. If you have the wrong the spacing, the damping adjustment won’t work right and possible damage could result.

Noted.  It was puzzling when I was reading the service manual that it looked like they were doing the same thing to the fork in the photos, but used one tool one time, and the other one the next time but were taking the same part off......


That JACK is like 500$ ! :truce:

 

[Jjjtx]

I don't have the manual here but this is what I got and I did both forks with it.

http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Service-Tool-Kit/

All you really need is...
http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Spring-Compressor-Kit-4017/
http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Bleed-Tool-Universal-0-0/

Yup.  I have a couple years and 10K on the bike.  I I dont see anywhere in the book where it says when to do the oil.  But I'm thinking 15-20K and I'll do it.


I noticed the tools in another thread and for around $100 at traxxion you can do the same work the book is using 900$ in tools to do.  :-\

 

[syxxphive]

They’re not bad at all. The pulling rod is an absolute must. Once you pull the cap off and let the tension off the spring, that sucker is gone. Lol. If you do replace the seals, make sure the jam nut under the cap has the proper thread length above it. I think it’s 12mm. If you have the wrong the spacing, the damping adjustment won’t work right and possible damage could result.

Noted.  It was puzzling when I was reading the service manual that it looked like they were doing the same thing to the fork in the photos, but used one tool one time, and the other one the next time but were taking the same part off......


That JACK is like 500$ ! :truce:

Put bike on center stand. Use scissor jack from car on header pipe. Lift approx 1.5-2”. Works great.

 

[Jjjtx]

They’re not bad at all. The pulling rod is an absolute must. Once you pull the cap off and let the tension off the spring, that sucker is gone. Lol. If you do replace the seals, make sure the jam nut under the cap has the proper thread length above it. I think it’s 12mm. If you have the wrong the spacing, the damping adjustment won’t work right and possible damage could result.

Noted.  It was puzzling when I was reading the service manual that it looked like they were doing the same thing to the fork in the photos, but used one tool one time, and the other one the next time but were taking the same part off......


That JACK is like 500$ ! :truce:

Put bike on center stand. Use scissor jack from car on header pipe. Lift approx 1.5-2”. Works great.

Right.  I mean the compressor in the manual.  I call the fork compressor a jack.

 

[syxxphive]

500 for that? I should start making them at work and selling them. Hahahaha

 

[Jjjtx]

500 for that? I should start making them at work and selling them. Hahahaha

Amazon sells them for 500 +


http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/kawasaki/57001-1771/b3050921


They sell them for $330ish.


Still a lot.


So I was wondering if It was even necessary .


Seems like All I need is the TRAXXION gear for 100 ish.

 

[syxxphive]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

 

[Jjjtx]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

Oh most definitely.  The seal drivers are pretty common and not real expensive.  I don't like the home made tool stuff mostly because I can't make them myself.




Where did you use the strap ?

 

[OMoaC]

Make you a deal. Join the club and I can arrange to have the Traxxion tools sent to you for loan  Another generous soul may even donate the seal driver 

 

[Jjjtx]

Make you a deal. Join the club and I can arrange to have the Traxxion tools sent to you for loan  Another generous soul may even donate the seal driver 

I appreciate the offer of course. But I like to have the tools on hand.  The cost is not a factor for me.  I was actually looking at buying the factory tools but noticed traxxxion has really the essentials for the cost of ONE Kaw' tool.    Theres certainly no sense in blowing cash on tools I really dont NEED just to dump fluid and change seals.


Which was the premise behind my original post here on why it looks like KAW is using two tools to do the same thing with the forks........

 

[OMoaC]

Make you a deal. Join the club and I can arrange to have the Traxxion tools sent to you for loan  Another generous soul may even donate the seal driver 

I appreciate the offer of course. But I like to have the tools on hand.  The cost is not a factor for me.  I was actually looking at buying the factory tools but noticed traxxxion has really the essentials for the cost of ONE Kaw' tool.    Theres certainly no sense in blowing cash on tools I really dont NEED just to dump fluid and change seals.


Which was the premise behind my original post here on why it looks like KAW is using two tools to do the same thing with the forks........

No Worries.  :great: :beerchug: The Traxxion tools work and get the job done. Worth it. For those out there doing seals or fluid changes these tools are available for loan. Includes the oil level tool. Gotta be a club member though so we can keep track of 'em.

 

[syxxphive]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

Oh most definitely.  The seal drivers are pretty common and not real expensive.  I don't like the home made tool stuff mostly because I can't make them myself.




Where did you use the strap ?

The strap gets threaded through the axle hole and one side attached to the compression tool. The ratchet gets attached to the other side of the comp tool.

 

[Jjjtx]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

Oh most definitely.  The seal drivers are pretty common and not real expensive.  I don't like the home made tool stuff mostly because I can't make them myself.




Where did you use the strap ?

The strap gets threaded through the axle hole and one side attached to the compression tool. The ratchet gets attached to the other side of the comp tool.

Oh I see.  Vs having someone help you, you strapped it.

 

[syxxphive]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

Oh most definitely.  The seal drivers are pretty common and not real expensive.  I don't like the home made tool stuff mostly because I can't make them myself.




Where did you use the strap ?

The strap gets threaded through the axle hole and one side attached to the compression tool. The ratchet gets attached to the other side of the comp tool.

Oh I see.  Vs having someone help you, you strapped it.

I’d love to find someone big enough to help. I’m 320 lbs, and I couldn’t compress the spring enough by hand. It’s gotta go all the way down to the top of the tube, then you have to pull up on the cap with a large amount of force and slide a keeper of sorts underneath the jam nut.

Also, if you’re just doing an oil change, or seal change, you don’t need to remove the cartridge. So don’t worry about the Allen bolt on the bottom of the fork.

 

[Jjjtx]

I’d recommend a seal driver too. I got mine from revzilla, it’s a motion pro 43mm ringer seal driver. You can rig something that will work, but there’s nothing like using a dedicated special tool. Also, a 1” wide ratchet strap. I think I got mine at Walmart for like $5.

Oh most definitely.  The seal drivers are pretty common and not real expensive.  I don't like the home made tool stuff mostly because I can't make them myself.




Where did you use the strap ?

The strap gets threaded through the axle hole and one side attached to the compression tool. The ratchet gets attached to the other side of the comp tool.

Oh I see.  Vs having someone help you, you strapped it.

I’d love to find someone big enough to help. I’m 320 lbs, and I couldn’t compress the spring enough by hand. It’s gotta go all the way down to the top of the tube, then you have to pull up on the cap with a large amount of force and slide a keeper of sorts underneath the jam nut.

Gotcha.  So is this what that  big spring compressor I call a JACK, is for ?

https://www.amazon.com/kawasaki-2015%602016-1400GTR-Toolsfork-Compressor/dp/B01CQ8O5U4

 

[syxxphive]

Not sure. That isn’t in my service manual. But mine is an 08. The forks are identical but Kaw probably just designed some new tools to make the job easier. The traxxion tools are great and will work flawlessly.

 

[syxxphive]

These are the fork tools in my manual.

 

[Jjjtx]

These are the fork tools in my manual.

Do we have the same book?  Mine is 15-16 year issue.


If so look at page 13-9

 

[syxxphive]

We don’t. Mine is for an 08. But the forks are identical. Kaw just designed new tools. Basically all upside down forks, like ours, are the same. Doesn’t matter the brand of bike. There’s minor differences here and there, but they’re all basically the same thing.

 

[Jjjtx]

We don’t. Mine is for an 08. But the forks are identical. Kaw just designed new tools. Basically all upside down forks, like ours, are the same. Doesn’t matter the brand of bike. There’s minor differences here and there, but they’re all basically the same thing.

OK so it seems like they created another tool, that does the same thing that you have listed.    Its odd that KAW has made two tools that appear to be doing the same thing, or the premise behind my main question.


The amazon list is way more expensive than bikebandit. http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/kawasaki/57001-1771/b3050921  Or $331.


If 1540 and 1587 do the same thing then what is their point I wonder.    If you had these two tools would you need the strap?

 

[syxxphive]

This is the kit from traxxion. The ring with threaded rods is the compressor tool. It works just as well as the Kaw tools, but it’s not as dignified.
https://www.ebay.com/i/262501814326?chn=ps&dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F262501814326%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D262501814326%2526targetid%253D363620366571%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9029766%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D935970388%2526adgroupid%253D43456209301%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-363620366571%2526abcId%253D1129686%2526merchantid%253D8334574%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwjdLOBRCkARIsAFj5-GA6uFC0YLDYgmhEmwbdjy1pcqM8ex0rPrSQKmI9qbOs9lPg9mg24voaAgK-EALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1327005508015

 

[Jjjtx]

This is the kit from traxxion. The ring with threaded rods is the compressor tool. It works just as well as the Kaw tools, but it’s not as dignified.
https://www.ebay.com/i/262501814326?chn=ps&dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F262501814326%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D262501814326%2526targetid%253D363620366571%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9029766%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D935970388%2526adgroupid%253D43456209301%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-363620366571%2526abcId%253D1129686%2526merchantid%253D8334574%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwjdLOBRCkARIsAFj5-GA6uFC0YLDYgmhEmwbdjy1pcqM8ex0rPrSQKmI9qbOs9lPg9mg24voaAgK-EALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1327005508015

Yeah its in my shopping cart wish list for sure




What I want to avoid is the strap method of compressing anything.  I don't trust straps and would rather just pay up for a tool, even if its a KAW tool to not have to rely on getting a strap just right on the assembly.

 

[syxxphive]

The strap will work fine. But if you want to spend hundreds of dollars for piece of mind be my guest. You’re not compressing thousands of pounds here. Only about 300. That strap I used is rated for almost 1000 lbs. You’ll only have it compressed for a few minutes anyhow. Literally thousands of people have done it this way.

 

[Jjjtx]

The strap will work fine. But if you want to spend hundreds of dollars for piece of mind be my guest. You’re not compressing thousands of pounds here. Only about 300. That strap I used is rated for almost 1000 lbs. You’ll only have it compressed for a few minutes anyhow. Literally thousands of people have done it this way.

No I understand.  It's just my luck, something wont go right and it'll fall, or slip, or release and I'll loose an eye or something silly. 


The cost is not a factor. I would rather have the tools.

 

[syxxphive]

Check out this guy then. Will work well and probably more stowable than the Kaw tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Race-Tech-Fork-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000GV6UIE

 

[Jjjtx]

Check out this guy then. Will work well and probably more stowable than the Kaw tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Race-Tech-Fork-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000GV6UIE

When I Was googling fork compression tools I noticed this style of tool as well.  It's a lot cheaper than the KAW tools.  Though I'm sure anything WITHOUT the KAW logo is less expensive .


I have one of these bookmarked as an alternative to the KAW version. But wasn't real sure on application or  if it was even necessary due to the KAW manual I have that shows BOTH tools being used.


Sometimes I wonder who in the HEII writes these manuals .

 

[syxxphive]

They have well designed special tools that are used daily. That’s why they’re so expensive. They’re purpose built and designed to last. If you were a suspension shop, I wouldn’t go with the race-tech tool. It likely wouldn’t hold up to daily use in a professional environment. For the guys that changes his seals every couple years, maybe helps his buddies out with the same job? Perfect.

 

[Jjjtx]

They have well designed special tools that are used daily. That’s why they’re so expensive. They’re purpose built and designed to last. If you were a suspension shop, I wouldn’t go with the race-tech tool. It likely wouldn’t hold up to daily use in a professional environment. For the guys that changes his seals every couple years, maybe helps his buddies out with the same job? Perfect.

Defiantly agree there.  And I wouldn't hesitate to let others locally use my tools if needed.  I'd even help out.

 

[syxxphive]

Couple other tips, loosen the top cap while the wheel is still on the bike. Just loosen the the clamp bolt on the top, then crack the top cap loose. It’s a 24mm. If you take the wheel off first, the bottom of the work can just rotate when you try to turn the top cap.

Also, I recommend the AllBalls Racing fork seals and dust seals. The dust seals have a spring on the outside keeping the rubber in contact with the fork tube. The OEM ones do not have that spring.

 

[Jjjtx]

Couple other tips, loosen the top cap while the wheel is still on the bike. Just loosen the the clamp bolt on the top, then crack the top cap loose. It’s a 24mm. If you take the wheel off first, the bottom of the work can just rotate when you try to turn the top cap.

Also, I recommend the AllBalls Racing fork seals and dust seals. The dust seals have a spring on the outside keeping the rubber in contact with the fork tube. The OEM ones do not have that spring.

Good to know.  I always get tools +parts long before I need them.  While I wont need to do this job for probably another 5K or so, I will definitely be doing it after another long road trip in 2019.  I Want to have the gear I need before I start vs having that AH #@%HT moment of not having something I need prior to starting.


Are you aware of any recommended interval for seals and or fork oil? I can't find it anywhere in the books/manuals. I'm surprised KAW does not list it in the end user manual. It lists all kind of other stuff but I didnt see anything on the fork oil.  It just says " inspect it ".

 

[syxxphive]

Nope. Probably every 25k or so. Like most bikes. Seals? Just change when they leak.

 

[Jjjtx]

Nope. Probably every 25k or so. Like most bikes. Seals? Just change when they leak.

Thats kind of what I would expect.  But I wonder why the book does not address it at all as a suggestion. I Mean, heck they tell you to replace the spark plugs at 7K!

 

[syxxphive]

That one is asinine. Especially since we use iridium plugs. I’d only replace them at the valve check. And simply because they’re already out.

 

[Jjjtx]

That one is asinine. Especially since we use iridium plugs. I’d only replace them at the valve check. And simply because they’re already out.

Yeah I plan to do the valve check at the books interval, and plugs then, not before.






Is there any practical need to remove the Fork cylinders from the forks for fluid/seal changes?

 

[syxxphive]

No. The cartridge can stay in. Unless you want to do a deep cleaning of everything. But that’s not really necessary. Just pull the rebound rod  out so it doesn’t get damaged while changing the seals.

 

[Jjjtx]

No. The cartridge can stay in. Unless you want to do a deep cleaning of everything. But that’s not really necessary. Just pull the rebound rod  out so it doesn’t get damaged while changing the seals.

Thats what I thought.  I should be able to swish it around enough to wash out anything floating around in there if any.  Maybe if the bike was 10 years old and never had it serviced it would be removed and cleaned, but not in my case.