Final Drive shaft fluid change

[cockraml]

I took my bike to the dealer and paid them $55 to change the final drive shaft fluid on the bike. They didn't change the gasket like the manual says to do. They told me then never do when they do this job. Is this normal?

I checked it at home and the gear oil doesn't come up to the top of the bottom threads.  It looks like it comes up to the threads where the end of the filler knob would screw in ( half way up the threads). Is this a problem?  Should I add more? 



Thanks for your help.

 

[necron99]

You got jobbed.  The gasket isn't necessary to be changed.  But $55 is a jobbing.  They probably charged you for a quart of fluid.  It takes only a few ounces. 

 

[cjny01]

55 bucks, ill do it for 25 next time and through in a gasket.

 

[Fred H.]

There really isn't a gasket, its just a crush washer, and most of the time you can reuse it without issue.

The bike needs to sit on the centerstand for at least an hour before you check the rear drive oil level because it is very thick and will cling to the ring gear and takes a long time to drain down. If you check it right after riding, you'll most likely find it is a little low. Let it sit and come back in a couple hours and I bet you'll find it has come up. Also, don't attempt to fill it up until you are sure it has all drained down. Preferably, leave it overnight and check it in the morning. And don't rotate the rear wheel when you fill it, cause you'll overfill it if you do, since a lot of oil will cling to the ring gear.

A bottle of rear drive oil costs about $10 - $12.
$50 for a rear drive fluid change is a bit steep. I'd recommend you learn how to do it yourself next time.  Drain it when the rear drive is hot after riding it a while, let it sit for half an hour or so, put the plug back on, and fill it till it reaches the bottom of the threads and put the cap on and you're done.

 

[DocPigskin]

Definetely agree on DIY.  Very easy project to do at home.  I use a syringe to refill the fluid.

 

[Cogwheel]

Torque for final drive drain plug: 78 inch pounds
Filler cap: 18 inch pounds

Both are easily and usually over tightened, the drain plug threads won't take much hamfisting.

 

[rcannon409]

Speaking of which, what do you guys use to remove the cap?  Obviously, a screwdriver (large) will work, but I used a round, brass plug from something to avoid scratching up the cap.  I suppose what works...works, but is there anything better?

 

[KLRtoConnie]

I bought this tool from the dealer (special order only)  for ~ $10 and it works great and is small enough for the on bike tool kit

INSPECTION PLUG TOOL

Prevent screwdriver dings on the fluid add plugs with this handy tool

Great for professional mechanics and owners

Kawasaki Vulcan Inspection Plug Tool K56019-063  (K56019-063 INSPECTION SCREW TOOL)

If you need a photo let me know and I will go out to the garage

 

[Cap'n Bob]

I bought this tool from the dealer (special order only)  for ~ $10 and it works great and is small enough for the on bike tool kit

INSPECTION PLUG TOOL

Prevent screwdriver dings on the fluid add plugs with this handy tool

Great for professional mechanics and owners

Kawasaki Vulcan Inspection Plug Tool K56019-063  (K56019-063 INSPECTION SCREW TOOL)

If you need a photo let me know and I will go out to the garage

If you wouldn't mind, I would like to see a picture of it.


As obviously you know now is that the Vulcan and C14 caps are the same size and interchangeable. The oil filters also fit. Although technically one is a little longer. I just used the bigger oil filter on both bikes.

 

[rcannon409]

I'd love to see a pic as well. It sounds like a good idea so I'll order one from the dealer. I would say, "Pick one up", but we know that wont happen.

They have a HUGE parts warehouse with what appears to be nothing in it. Its a rare occasion when they have what I am looking for.

 

[KLRtoConnie]

I bought this tool from the dealer (special order only)  for ~ $10 and it works great and is small enough for the on bike tool kit

INSPECTION PLUG TOOL

Kawasaki Vulcan Inspection Plug Tool K56019-063  (K56019-063 INSPECTION SCREW TOOL)

Attached is Photo of tool

Brent

 

[Fred H.]

I use a very large flat washer I had laying around and put it in a vice grip. Fits perfect.

 

[wally_games]

I found one of those cheap wrenches in my box that is stamped from thick sheet metal. It came with something else that I bought. I used the edge of it and it fit perfectly.

 

[necron99]

I replaced my oil and FD caps with colored billet aluminum caps that have a finger ridge.  They look cool, IMO.

 

[wally_games]

I replaced my oil and FD caps with colored billet aluminum caps that have a finger ridge.  They look cool, IMO.

Pics?

 

[Cap'n Bob]

I use either my MAC think shank stubby screw driver (fits perfect), or my oil filter wrench. I bought an oil filter wrench from a guy in Canada back a few years ago for my Mean Streak. It was laser cut to be a filter wrench, with the proper thickness and a tab on the other end to open the fluid caps. It works great for both. But I don't know if he still makes them or not. The filter and fluid caps are interchangeable between the Vulcan's and Concours. So it works great on both bikes!

 

[necron99]

Someone makes a replacement that is "secure" because some folks are worried that someone might open their fluid intake and pour in sane or something.  I guess I don't worry about that, but wow that would be bad.  But I use these, they look fine, and they're easy to unscrew.  Please forgive the low res images.

 

[Cap'n Bob]

All these caps are interchangeable between the engine and final drive. The first picture is the OEM C14 cap. The next two pictures of these are right out of my Vulcan, but as you can see, they will fit either the engine or final drive on the C14. The final picture is the Murph's tamper resistant cap! IMO, the cheapest version is an engine oil cap. (about $8 for cap and "O" ring from Ron Ayers).