When I purchased my 09 a year ago a detailed maintenance log was included. In the log there was " key fob code" then a two digit number. Obviously that can't be a complete fob code. Maybe the only difference between codes was that the first x number of letters/numbers were identical and the last few digits of the code number just increased as fob production increased? Don't think it could be a two digit key number b/c it looks like there's just two blank cut styles, groove left and groove right. I'm a bit confused. No oem fob package was included, and I didn't know enough at the time to ask. Concerned, b/c I'm notorious for misplacing things. Better guard these two fobs with my life...lol. Wondering if anyone might have any idea about the two digit "key fob code." Thanks
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Fob code question
- Thread starter gp74
- Start date
I've never read of any reference to 'key fob code' being recorded anywhere, except on a bag a new fob comes in.
Do yourself a favor - take the battery out of both fobs and ensure the passive function works as described in the Owner's Manual. If so, send one of them to someone like Fred H to be cloned or take to a locksmith to be cloned. If the passive function of one or both fobs don't function, you'll need to have them registered to the bike by a dealer or someone with KDS - but as that bike came from the factory with 2 fobs they should be both function, if original.
Do yourself a favor - take the battery out of both fobs and ensure the passive function works as described in the Owner's Manual. If so, send one of them to someone like Fred H to be cloned or take to a locksmith to be cloned. If the passive function of one or both fobs don't function, you'll need to have them registered to the bike by a dealer or someone with KDS - but as that bike came from the factory with 2 fobs they should be both function, if original.
Good idea and will do...on the passive function. Thanks for the heads up. Would hate to have the battery go dead just to find out the passive function isn't working.
Working on it....
Have a question on the passive Kawi fob. Does anyone know where the programming code is on the package that the dealer needs to get it working with the bike. I bought one and took it to the dealer and they said I was missing the card with the code on it. So I thought I must thrown it away at a time I was cleaning off my desk and was distracted. I ordered a second one and the packaging of it is the same, no additional card or paper with a code on it. So now I'm thinking the dealer didn't know what to look for. Picture of the label below, that I wonder has the code on it somewhere. Any ideas? Thanks!
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The passive fob/immobiliser key thingy do not have or need an ID code. It sounds like the dealer is ignorant, as many are in this regard. When registering a passive fob the KDS operator must register the new one and re-register any others including the passive part of the active fob(s) one after the other. If they register just that new passive fob, the other one(s) will be wiped from memory. Passive fob and active fob registration are 2 completely different procedures and the registration information is held to 2 different ECUs - hence the different process. And to complicate the issue a little bit further, the instructions for passive fob registration mentions fob or immobiliser - SINGULAR in the last step where it should be PLURAL, meaning that s/he has to repeat the process for the other passive fobs/immobilisers. Before you leave the shop, remove the battery from your active fob(s) and ensure the passive function works - as well as the new flat passive fobs.
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Thank you Freddy. You're a great help. That makes sense. Sounds like the dealer is confusing the processes for the active vs passive fob registration. I'll print this out and bring it with me. Mods, extend his membership!!
I don't have access to the complete KDS manual at the moment but I found this crap version on the net - pix don't show.
This was written before the new flat immobiliser fob key thingy was 'invented.' Note the words Immobiliser and fob are both used to describe the passive function. Note the text under Fig 5-42 and especially this line at 5-44 When ALL fobs have been registered, select
Confirm changed item.
It should say itemS. If they select Confirm at this point, before doing the other passive fobs and passive part of active fobs one after the other, only the last one to be done will work.
Hope it goes well - just ensure all work as they should before you leave the shop. Remove battery from active fobs to check passive function.
This was written before the new flat immobiliser fob key thingy was 'invented.' Note the words Immobiliser and fob are both used to describe the passive function. Note the text under Fig 5-42 and especially this line at 5-44 When ALL fobs have been registered, select
Confirm changed item.
It should say itemS. If they select Confirm at this point, before doing the other passive fobs and passive part of active fobs one after the other, only the last one to be done will work.
Hope it goes well - just ensure all work as they should before you leave the shop. Remove battery from active fobs to check passive function.
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Hey Bud, since I only have one working fob it makes me nervous to send it off. I tried a couple local locksmiths but they had no idea about cloning passive RFIDS. I'm going to return one of those two fobs I just bought. Should have asked you guys before I bought the second one. I talked to them today (this is Sloans in Murfreesboro) and the tech on duty today finally realized that yes no code is required for the passive fobs. Have an appointment for them to do it on the 28th. Yes I'll definitely check all fobs. I reminded them there's a passive RFID inside the active fob case. I'll do so again when I go.
I'm going to print out this conversation so they are aware of these issues. .... Thanks again!
I'm going to print out this conversation so they are aware of these issues. .... Thanks again!
Freddy if you click on 'See other formats' , versions of the manual with the pictures show up and you can download a pdf of it (click on the 3 dot circle)
I'm 3000miles away from home at present. I have KDS and everything related to it back there. An interetsing tidbit is that the new H2 SX SE is the only other Kaw bike to have Kipass. It requires different software & hardware than our bikes.
Read of the differences here.
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OK thank again for your help. It's a nice system to use but getting new fobs added is a pain.
Ensure to come back with how it all goes Pete. I'll be entitled to 'read only' after today.
Ride safe. Freddy
OK Freddy, I'll report back. This same dealer added a passive fob to my 08 ten years ago but very likely a different technician now. I should have checked with you guys prior to starting this. Oh well.
Fred H. if I was a little closer I may consider a road trip over to you. It's probably 5-6 hours each way on the slab.
Fred H. if I was a little closer I may consider a road trip over to you. It's probably 5-6 hours each way on the slab.
One problem I've seen is people test the passive portion of the Active FOB by simply holding it to the ignition lock and then pushing on the stove knob and seeing if it works. If the battery is still in the active FOB, it will work even if the passive chip isn't programmed, because the Active FOB overrides it. In order to properly test the passive portion of the FOB, you have to REMOVE THE BATTERY from it, otherwise you won't be able to test it.
Programming in a new Active FOB requires TWO STEPS with the KDS. You have to program in both the Active portion, and then you have to program in the Passive portion. Many dealers aren't aware of this when they program in extra Key FOBs, and the result is that the Passive portion of the FOB won't work on the bike.
If you have an second Active FOB that doesn't have the passive chip coded to the bike, but have another Passive FOB that works, I can clone your working passive FOB and replace the chip in your Active FOB with the cloned chip so that it will work, and you won't have to get it coded in with the KDS. Just an option to consider if you're in this boat.
Programming in a new Active FOB requires TWO STEPS with the KDS. You have to program in both the Active portion, and then you have to program in the Passive portion. Many dealers aren't aware of this when they program in extra Key FOBs, and the result is that the Passive portion of the FOB won't work on the bike.
If you have an second Active FOB that doesn't have the passive chip coded to the bike, but have another Passive FOB that works, I can clone your working passive FOB and replace the chip in your Active FOB with the cloned chip so that it will work, and you won't have to get it coded in with the KDS. Just an option to consider if you're in this boat.
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Well went to the dealer to get the new credit card FOB registered to the bike today, Sloans in Murfreesboro. They did exactly what Fred H. and Freddy suspected they might. Active FOB still works normally and new passive FOB works, but the passive chip in the large FOB no longer works. It did before, I tried it without the battery a few weeks ago. I didn't try that part before I left today. Forgot to bring a tool to open it and take the battery out, plus I missed breakfast (thought we'd have a nice breakfast at Cracker Barrel early but they had issues and I left the wife there after two biscuits and went to Sloans). Would not have made any difference. I called them when I got home and tried it and they said they followed Kawasaki's directions and couldn't do anything else until they called MaMa Kaw next week. He said there's only one step to register the two parts of the large FOB. I told him that's probably not accurate.
I did bring a printout of Freddy's and Fred H's advice and handed it to them. Of course the attitude was that they didn't need any help, even though I mentioned they didn't know what to do when I was there Sept. 9. To some degree this confusion is on Kaw for poor instructions, but if Sloans is going to charge $80 for 0.5 hours labor they should make it a point to know what they're doing even if Kaw doesn't. On the phone I told him I'd be happy (make up for today and wasted time on Sept 9) if they can fix it and refund my $80 too, or mount & balance my new tires for free. Just crickets and then said they would have to call Kaw for advice. Well maybe it's half-a-win since I now have a 2nd physically separate FOB that works. I did return the extra 2nd small FOB I had bought since I had hoped they'd get it right and I wouldn't need it. I'll see what they say but it's a pain riding up there; very congested town. Still on the original Bridgestones too. They just don't like to lean! Maybe I'll ask Fred H to see what he can do.
I did bring a printout of Freddy's and Fred H's advice and handed it to them. Of course the attitude was that they didn't need any help, even though I mentioned they didn't know what to do when I was there Sept. 9. To some degree this confusion is on Kaw for poor instructions, but if Sloans is going to charge $80 for 0.5 hours labor they should make it a point to know what they're doing even if Kaw doesn't. On the phone I told him I'd be happy (make up for today and wasted time on Sept 9) if they can fix it and refund my $80 too, or mount & balance my new tires for free. Just crickets and then said they would have to call Kaw for advice. Well maybe it's half-a-win since I now have a 2nd physically separate FOB that works. I did return the extra 2nd small FOB I had bought since I had hoped they'd get it right and I wouldn't need it. I'll see what they say but it's a pain riding up there; very congested town. Still on the original Bridgestones too. They just don't like to lean! Maybe I'll ask Fred H to see what he can do.
Yeah I was pretty grumpy Saturday morning. We think the Friday night staff at Cracker Barrel left a big catering order for the Saturday morning staff. I don't do well missing breakfast but at least Sloans put out some nice complementary cookies, LOL. Typical big dealer service department though.
I do all my own wrenching on the bike, but with fobs and KiPass we're kind of held hostage. I've got some new RSIII's to put on when I get the time.
I think one major lesson this season is don't trade bikes in the middle of the riding season. Spent most of my time after that re-installing farkles.
Thanks again for all the help and input guys.
I do all my own wrenching on the bike, but with fobs and KiPass we're kind of held hostage. I've got some new RSIII's to put on when I get the time.
I think one major lesson this season is don't trade bikes in the middle of the riding season. Spent most of my time after that re-installing farkles.
Thanks again for all the help and input guys.
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Pete, if you can't get the dealer to reprogram it, I can clone and replace the passive chip in your Active FOB if you send me a WORKING passive FOB and the Active FOB that the passive function isn't working on.
I'd try the dealer first though, and see if they can make it right.
I'd try the dealer first though, and see if they can make it right.
Thanks Fred. I was wondering if you used my now working passive fob and made a new passive chip for the active fob, how hard it is for me to remove/replace the passive chip in the active fob. i.e avoid sending the active fob in the mail, just the passive one. Looks like the passive chip in the active fob is just a snug-fit installed piece in the active fob housing. I'll see if I want to try the dealer again.
It isn't too hard, you just pry the old chip out of the FOB case and push the new one in. I can certainly make one for you if you want.
Another option would be just to send me the outer shell plastic half of the FOB and I can replace it for you. I don't need the actual circuit board, just the plastic shell half that holds the chip.
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OK thanks again Fred. I'll PM you at the end of the riding season. I'll get this done, do my tires etc. after enjoying about another month of riding.