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Fork Oil Change/Hyperpro Spring Instal

M

mcgyver74

Member
Member
Finally installed the Hyperpro spring kit in my forks today,  Haven't had a chance to ride it yet but just back and forth in the Garage the front feels firmer and less divey..

Tried to document the install but forgot to take pics when the springs were out :(


https://picasaweb.google.com/109835062911947295359/ForkSprings?authuser=0&feat=directlink
 
Quick Q for Fred and Brian...

When reassembling, on page 13-16 of the manual, Kawi says you should have 13mm clearance between the rebound damping adjuster and the bottom of the fork cap

I didn't so I just screwed the clickers in until I did, but what is the point of this,  Before I disassembled the forks I backed off the preload adjusters and the rebound clickers all the way so there was less tension on things...  Had I just left it loose and reassambled then readjusted things what would have been the difference???
 
Love the AC/DC shirt and cheerleader poster Marc!  :great:  :beerchug:


Oh, and good luck with the forks project too bro.  ;)
 
springs and valving replaced, or just the springs ??
last year, at 18k had the fork oil changed, added more than stock and took some spring out. made a huge difference with the bike diving. this year i'm having the springs and valves changed. Can only be better than stock.
rear only sag and tried to have adjusted (far from linear) not fully committed with thousands yet, so starting with springs and valving up front. Huge bang for the buck i feel.

nice job,
Joel

 
This was the front end portion of a Hyperpro kit that included a new rear shock, and fork springs as well as 10 weight oil.

Because the springs are slightly longer (they have to be to hold more weight) the kit calls for reducing the oil level a bit (120MM instead of the stock 93 MM)

I haven't gotten to ride it much yet but just up and down the driveway etc it Feels less divey then it did before.

 
Mad River Marc said:
I haven't gotten to ride it much yet but just up and down the driveway etc it Feels less divey then it did before.
Click to expand...


It better. You had over 20,000 miles on the factory fork oil.
 
Yeah the oil that came out was pretty nasty.  Nowhere near as nasty as what came out of my FJR at 5k miles..but still pretty bad.. (Was pretty much the consistency of water)
 
Mad River Marc said:
Quick Q for Fred and Brian...

When reassembling, on page 13-16 of the manual, Kawi says you should have 13mm clearance between the rebound damping adjuster and the bottom of the fork cap

I didn't so I just screwed the clickers in until I did, but what is the point of this,  Before I disassembled the forks I backed off the preload adjusters and the rebound clickers all the way so there was less tension on things...  Had I just left it loose and reassambled then readjusted things what would have been the difference???
Click to expand...

I believe the purpose of doing this is to get the fullly closed position of the clickers set correct and to get the depth of the cap set correctly on the damper rod, because this will in turn impact the adjustment of the rebound damping. With the clicker turned full clockwise, and the cap screwed onto the rod to a depth of 12mm, this leaves the rebound damper rods extended just 1mm above the end of the threaded damper rod when the cap is screwed down to the 12mm depth. You then should be able to turn the clicker counterclockwise 12 clicks to the fully loose end of the rebound damping setting. This just helps insure the proper start and end point for the clickers, because the cap will stop turning on the threaded rod when the compression damper rod won't push down anymore, so you want the clickers set at their fully compressed position, which puts them 13mm up from the bottom of the cap. Now, when the cap is threaded on fully, and the compression adjuster rods are pushed all the way in, the clicker setting matches, since it is also set at the fully closed (CW) position.
 
Thanks Fred,  :)  I wasn't sure why they wanted this since from what I could see just making sure you had at least 12mm between the lock nut and the top of the damper rod would do the same thing..but hey if the manual says to do it who am I to argue :)


Got about 200 miles in today heading home...  the front end is DEF less divey and it doesn't feel like it's as easily upset by bumps in the corners as it was before. Also seems to handle harsh road better.. it does seem more sensitive to grooved road now..not bad, but you really know you are on it even though it feels stable......  but I did notice one thing bad..

Before I did this, I always had a wobble in the bars if I took my hands off the bars around 40mph, not major but enough that you wouldn't want to have your hands off the bars for more then a few seconds...  Now that I did this, the wobble is at 45mph and is more pronounced, again not dangerously so...but I still wonder what is causing it...

Gonna try readjusting the head bearing since it feels loose to me.....  Hopefully that fixes it
 
The problem is that if the adjusters are cranked down and you don't have 13mm between the bottom of them and the bottom of the cap, then you'll never be able to screw it on the full 12mm. It will bottom out against the adjusters before it gets all the way down, and then your adjusters will be all out of whack.
 
Ok now I am confused,  I had the adjusters backed all the way out, so I just turned the clickers (the plastic knob on the outside of the cap) till the plunger was 13mm from the end of the cap...  Are you saying that I should have bottomed out the adjusters and then made sure i had 13 mm?
 
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