Fork Seals and Creaking Connie

[Sirius Scratch]

To All,

Got a weeping RH front fork seal, and in addition, discovered an ominous creaking sound that emanates from the rear suspension.  The creaking seems to come from the rear suspension, but I haven't been able to sit on the bike, get the bike to creak, AND have my ear close enough to figure out where exactly it is coming from.  It sounds like a creaking metal spring rubbing on something.

Called the local motorcycle shop about the fork seal job and they wanted over $300 dollars to fix the fork seals. :smiley_confused1:  After I regained my senses from that response, out of curiousity I asked them what they charged for an oil change.  $55.00. :rotflmao:  I came very close to asking the guy if he was effing kidding me.  My Mustang GT oil change costs less than that at the Ford Service Center!  But I digress.
Obviously I will be changing my own oil.

I have wrenched on my own cars, mostly a 1990 Honda CRX Si, the most complicated machine I've ever worked on (not to say that it was very complicated, I am just giving a point of reference).  I have replaced CV joints, alternators, brakes.......So that brings me to my question, does it sound like I have the skills to competently rebuild the forks on my '99 Connie.

Assuming I have the mad skills to tackle the fork seal job, any pointers on how long it would take a first timer?  Any tips on the process?  Other advice? I have perused the fork seal topics on the forum.

Oh, any Coggers in the Beaverton area wanna help a newbie with his fork seals?

Thanks for your help.

Sirius Scratch

 

[smithr]

This and many other fixes and info are on the Tech Pages area linked to from the home page of cog-online.org
Get there by clicking on the big COG at the top of this page.  Here is the fork seal direct link.

http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=30801

 

[smithr]

Oh by the way...  I had one bike creak because the tail pipe on the left side would hit the axle bolt but only when you sat on the bike.  The fix was rotating the tail pipe can slightly and then re-tightening it.

I had another one that creaked when I went over slow bumps.  That turned out to be the front fender.  I could make it do it just by flexing it by hand.  The fix is to snug up the pop rivets or replace with bolts.

 

[Sirius Scratch]

I've read and re-read the fork seal tech articles and I believe I can do this.  > However, for the sake of trying I am going to give the masking tape a whirl first.  By the way, is it critical to make the masking tape one single layer without overlapping the ends?

As for the creaking sound.  After about 20 minutes of further serious scrutiny since the original post, I discovered a rear wheel bolt cotter pin spun outwards which was ever so slightly scraping the right muffler can. DOH!! :-[

How long is it practical to ride the bike with a weeping fork seal?  Are there conditions to look for that would indicate that the bike is unsuitable to ride?  I ask because I'll be moving across town within 5 to 6 weeks (new house has room to work, not so much where I live now) and likely will be averaging about two 40 mile round trip commutes per week, plus the occasional jaunt around town (two-up) with my better half.  Don't want to endanger myself or my wife or others for that matter.

Thanks for your input.

Sirius

 

[colinp386]

Just one layer of tape and butt the ends.
You can also try film negative, that is more robust.


Most likely if the bike has a few years on it you will want to replace the seals as they harden  with age.
As long as they leak is not excessive, and the forks don't feel totally soft your probably fine.


Murph sells the seals.


Best not leave it too long though. You can measure the height of the oil with a long dowel, and top up if low.
Instructions are in the Clymer or Kawasaki Workshop Manual.


Bring it to the Bun Cooler we can do it in the car park after a few brews LoL  >