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Fuel Petcock for an 86 = same for 2001

Dempster

Big Wheel
Does anyone know if the fuel petcock used on the 1986 ZG1000 is the same part number as the 2001 model? Mine is leaking, I found a used one, but my bike and book are a long way from where I am/// Thanks. KJ
 
D

Donrix

Guest
Guest
Dempster, all gas tanks are the same up to the new model, so you should be able to use 1986 or 2001 unit.
 

brooke.benfield

Member
Member
It's about $30.00 for the parts to rebuild your original petcock. A used one will need to be rebuilt at some point, might as well put your dollars towards new rubber bits for the original as it should last longer after a successful rebuild than a used petcock with questionable remaining life.
 

Dempster

Big Wheel
Thanks....never really considered trying to find new parts. I've been rebuilding this old bike off of stuff I find used online, including Ebay....whom do you buy your new parts from for these old bikes? Thanks again for the advice. Kris
 

suzukijay

Mini Bike
I've been rebuilding this old bike off of stuff I find used online, including Ebay....whom do you buy your new parts from for these old bikes?
Unless you know the person you are getting the parts from on fleaBay it is going to be a hit or miss proposition. You might have better luck with new original parts from Kawasaki or aftermarket parts from K&L.
 

brooke.benfield

Member
Member
I've used both the K&L and OEM parts to rebuild my 86 C10 petcock and I seem to remember the OEM diaphragm being thicker and IMO of better quality.
 

suzukijay

Mini Bike
If you really get hard up for a petcock you can take one from a late 70's early 80's Suzuki GS motorcycle and it will fit perfectly. The only difference is the PRI and RES are exactly OPPOSITE of the petock on the ZG.
 

MOOSERIDER

Training Wheels
Forum Subscriber
I landed a K+N Supply petcock on Ebay for $46 shipped. It is for the Suzuki so mechanism is reversed (Shout out to Suzuki Jay)

It is in euro packaging but is a quality K&N Supply product for 1/2 of OEM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Petcoc...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


 

m in sc

Member
Member
Guest
^ thats good info. I rebuilt the one on the 2000 and used a new one on the 99. both still working fine too.
 

jonbadger

Bicycle
Forum Subscriber
2x on Murph’s kits. I got a rebuild kit from them, they ship fast, and the rebuild took all of a half hour, and that’s just cause I took the time to hone all the mating surfaces.
 

Mrhyde

Big Wheel
Forum Subscriber
Just curious if anybody else has had any problems rebuilding the stock petcock with a “K&L 18-2704” kit? I have a nagging slow leak ( 1 drop/minute). I cleaned and honed the mating surfaces but had alignment issues with the punched holes in the new diaphragm mating with the raised pins on the old plastic separator plate. I was meticulous with the install but could not get a smooth wrinkle-free match. I finally carefully enlarged the two holes in the diaphram with a soldering pencil. I would have preferred to punch them out, but was too anxious to ride to fabricate such a small punch. I thought I was successful, but guess not. I will undoubtedly take it apart and try again. But, why no new separator plate, and why only 2 new flathead screws? Thoughts from you wrenches?
 

nosmo

Sport Tourer
Forum Subscriber
I used a K & L kit to rebuild mine and it didn't seal internally due to an undersize O-ring for the poppet valve, and a weak spring. I went with the Pingel manual valve (yes, I know, it relies on the pilot to turn OFF and ON) but it has been trouble free for many years now. PLUS it's chrome plated.;)

DISCLAIMER: Manual valves are actually more risky for hydro-lock if you don't have carb drain tubes. If switching to a manual valve, you must install drain tubes.

I also previously had trouble with K & L float needle valves in the carbs having inconstistent spring tensions causing fluctuating fuel levels. Fixed that with OEM parts from Murph.
 
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Mrhyde

Big Wheel
Forum Subscriber
Thanks guys, I should have left it alone! It was working and not leaking, but I was being proactive! One vote for procrastination! The old diaphram didn’t look so good and I won’t attempt to reuse it, but it did seem that the 4 locator holes near the corners were slightly larger than those in the new diaphragm.
 

Mrhyde

Big Wheel
Forum Subscriber
Just curious if anybody else has had any problems rebuilding the stock petcock with a “K&L 18-2704” kit? I have a nagging slow leak ( 1 drop/minute). I cleaned and honed the mating surfaces but had alignment issues with the punched holes in the new diaphragm mating with the raised pins on the old plastic separator plate. I was meticulous with the install but could not get a smooth wrinkle-free match. I finally carefully enlarged the two holes in the diaphram with a soldering pencil. I would have preferred to punch them out, but was too anxious to ride to fabricate such a small punch. I thought I was successful, but guess not. I will undoubtedly take it apart and try again. But, why no new separator plate, and why only 2 new flathead screws? Thoughts from you wrenches?
So, not wanting to order another rebuild kit and take my chances, or wait for a new $90 valve, I spent a couple of hours fine-tuning the plastic separator plate and it now functions perfectly and doesn't leak. Since I had 'nothing to lose' I sanded the alignment nubs off the side of the plate that goes towards the valve-body. Careful fitting of the diaphragm, using the 4 nubs on the other side of the separator plate to provide alignment with the vacuum cover and diaphragm, aligns the whole assembly. Just offering this as a possible option for anybody in a similar bind.
 
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