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Getting rid of "the buzz"

I did a balancer adjustment a couple of days ago on my '95 C10. I also did one twenty-ish years ago. Curiously, my last adjustment was minor, from the 3:00 position to about the 3:30 position and it made a noticeable reduction in vibration. This time I ended up at the 4:30 position. I am curious whether this is considered normal due to wear. The odometer is just over 60,000. My adjustment procedure was: engine just warm enough to idle at 1000 rpm, ccw till I heard noise, cw till noise went away then just a touch more.

Also, this time I feel like there is increased vibration at 3500 rpm that is consistent through 4500 rpm. Previously, the vibration only started feeling bad when approaching 4500 rpm.
 
As for the handlebar vibrations transmitted to any sensitive electronics through the mount...
I ran a Garmin Etrex Vista Cx GPS for many years.
I used a Ram clutch mount ball and short extension to the GPS holder.
The GPS would receive enough vibration from that setup to occasionally lose it's position and speed reading.
I ended up attaching the GPS holder to a chunk of lead, while the 'ball' for the GPS holder was mounted to the lead chunk with rubber bushings.
It did a really good job of isolating the GPS from the handlebar vibrations.
Just touching the GPS while riding, felt about as 'calm' as gas tank, as a way to compare.
 
BrianG said:
I did a balancer adjustment a couple of days ago on my '95 C10. I also did one twenty-ish years ago. Curiously, my last adjustment was minor, from the 3:00 position to about the 3:30 position and it made a noticeable reduction in vibration. This time I ended up at the 4:30 position. I am curious whether this is considered normal due to wear. The odometer is just over 60,000. My adjustment procedure was: engine just warm enough to idle at 1000 rpm, ccw till I heard noise, cw till noise went away then just a touch more.

Also, this time I feel like there is increased vibration at 3500 rpm that is consistent through 4500 rpm. Previously, the vibration only started feeling bad when approaching 4500 rpm.
Click to expand...
I tend to find that my C10 seems to run smoother after the valves have been adjusted and the carbs synced. It might be just the placebo effect. I also tend to have carbs #1 and #4 pulling a teeny bit more vacuum at idle than #2 and #3. At speed, it seems like the carb linkage lash is taken up and they all 'level out'.
 
mtntec said:
The balancer shaft adjustment is only about the gear lash. It does not alter balancer's rotational relationship to that of the engine's rotating assembly. I adjusted mine once when I first got the C10, After going through the adjustment procedure, it was back to the original position.
Basically, there was no need to touch it. Haven't touched in >70k miles.
Click to expand...
Good to know. I have not clearly understood the diagram or seen one taken apart, so that's helpful to know. Doesn't sound like it's worth the trouble unless tehre's an issue.
 
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