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Got my peg lowering kit have a couple questions

dano59

dano59

Mini Bike
^-^

Before I start tearing things apart, I have my knee saver kit installed and I have to say I love the position and quality.

I can live with the shifter and brake position but would like to lower bothe an inch or so.

The brake side looks like adjusting the clevis will take care of that right?

I can't tell if the shifter side is splined or if there is an easy way to adjust the hight?

I could just dig into it but would like to know if I am waisting time.

Thanks
 
The shifter side is splined so there's plenty of travel to put it where you want it. I had to relieve some of the fairing on the shifter side to get it low enough for me and had to modify the brake lever a little also.
 
Same experience here.  I was able to adjust the shifter reasonably well, but I could not adjust the brake pedal downward as it was already at the adjustment limit.  I ended up putting my original footpegs back on for now.  Great product, but I was sort of disappointed in my results.  Can you get a brake pedal with a different angle?
 
I wonder if I could heat the pedal just enough to bend the shaft of the pedal at the pivot point enough to lower it an inch or so without weakening the shaft?
 
I think it's cast aluminum, isn't it?  That wouldn't bend well - probably snap off.  I'm wondering if maybe something off another Kawasaki would have a different angle, but the same mechanics.  Ninja, maybe?  I don't know if there's some kind of aftermarket pedal, either.
 
I think I recall a discussion on this Forum (or the other) about adjusting the Brake Pedal for those pegs. Try doing a search on both.

I'm not near my bike so can't look at it to check this. But, I think it might be possible to move the Brake cylinder or extend the adjustment by making a new mount?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yes I think your right on the cast slum so that isn't the answer. I'm going to dig into it this morning so I will see what I can come up with.
 
Just got done working on bike in the unbelievable heat in the hot driveway.

Pulled the rear brake brackets, pulled the cotter pin and adjusted clevis all the way in to the shortest it will go and adjusted the rod on the shift side. Everything adjusted perfect and I am very happy with the adjustments. The hight is perfect and I not just pivot my toe in or out as needed.

A great addition. ;D
 
Good to hear you've got it adjusted. To answer the question about heating up and bending cast aluminum.  Here is the best answer. Although it can be done my advice is to:

DON'T HEAT AND TRY TO BEND CAST ALUMINUM.  :-\

If you heat it too much the metal will literally melt into a pile of useless and now expensive ex brake lever material. Not good.
 
I also removed the locknut on the foot brake adjustment ... I believe some people have also removed up to 1/4" of the adjusting screw to lower the brake pedal even more.
 
turbojoe78_MA said:
I also removed the locknut on the foot brake adjustment ... I believe some people have also removed up to 1/4" of the adjusting screw to lower the brake pedal even more.
Click to expand...

Good idea, I think ir is ok where it is at but yes that would lower it a bit more. :-[
 
Yeah, now that I think about it, maybe taking out that locknut would give me the extra adjustment I need.  On my '05, I turned that locknut all the way down and the clevis with it, yet my brake pedal was a full inch higher than my (lowered) footpeg.  Hit or miss, I guess.

That said, I drove it with the stock pedals over 500 miles this past weekend, and it wasn't horrible.  Maybe I'll just live with it.
 
I have gotten use to the pedal adjusted as low as it will go with the locknut still in place. 8)
 
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