• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Got my pegs in yesterday, Thanks

Rob

Training Wheels
Jim, Pegs came in the mail yesterday, and wow. The all black powder coating looks great. The craftsmanship is exceptional and the installation video will be very helpful. I'm shooting for this weekend to get them installed. Thanks again for providing a great product at a good price. 2004 Connie
xhtml">
 
[blushes] Thanks. [/blushes] Black? I thought I sent you pink :p If you need a hand installing them, give me a shout. If you're still happy with them, tell your friends. If you're not, tell me. Thanks again! http://millerized.com/pegs COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
member8960.png
 
Pink? Very funny. I will let you know if I run into trouble installing them. CD looks pretty straight forward with basic tools. Is the engine threaded at the motor mounts or is the other side of the mount threaded? Any torque requirements? 2004 Connie
xhtml">
 
IIRC, but I'll have to check when I get home to make sure: There's a bracket that is threaded on the inside of the motor mount. Motor is just a tube for the bolt to slide through. Loosen one side at a time to prevent any movement. The torque is 40ftlbs. I'm not sure where I got that spec for that, but I think it was either the Clymer or Kawa manual. Use German torque if in doubt. (Gutentight) Yes, it's a simple procedure. The only "hard" part is cutting the hole in the heat shields. While it's not hard cutting (relatively soft plastic) getting the spacing perfect seems to be. Don't worry about breaking, hacking, butchering or even bodging the heat shields, they have connection points above and below the cut/crack/crevice/canyon you put in. They'll stay put even if you installed the grand canyon between the pieces. They're unseen, way under the fairing lowers when done. If I could find a copy of the install for the Rivco tip-over bars bracket, it's pretty much the same cut-out. I have faith in you. There are many who have gone before, and I still only have the original openings I was issued with, so it can't be all that hard. http://millerized.com/pegs COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
member8960.png
 
Rob, I had bought a set from Jim about (I forget how many years ago). Every so often I would get a question on where I got them - but had to say you can't get them any more. I was happy to see that Jim has decided to 'start-up' again. I had them on my 2000 and transfered them to my 2006 when I got it. They are my 'long-distance' friends (left and right). Easy to install, and real leg savers for my 6'5" legs - well, my legs are long. You can't go wrong. You'll see them on a some pics if you click on the link below. John Hoogewerf COG5737 Lansing, Illinois
 
What do you think about this scenerio. Just in case of total distruction of the heat sheild, wrap the pipes with something like heat tape. This is a worst case scenerio of course. I don't have a zip tool but I do have a dremel that should do the trick. 2004 Connie
xhtml">
 
Top