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Headlight
- Thread starter Meadow
- Start date
I changed mine by turning the bars to the left, reach in and pull back the rubber boot and connector over the back of light, unclip the spring clip wire from the back of bulb and insert new bulb and reassemble. I thought there was a write up about it but I can't find it yet. Photos[/url]
You do not have to remove anything but the old bulb, it's one bulb, for both high and low, need to get your hand down in there and I forget if it's just a twist type or clip holding it, so much for the help I'm providing, hopefully the clymer will tell you to twist or clip to remove, but the bottom line is you can do it but it'll be tight, do not touch the new bulb glode, glass part.
You can access the headlamp bulb underneath the fairing: 1. Reaching underneath the fairing from the front of the bike and find the headlamp harness plug. Remove by pulling it straight backwards. It should be tight. 2. Remove the rubber boot by pulling on the tab located at the bottom (6 o'clock). 3. Squeeze in the stainless steel spring wire retainer forward towards the headlamp and lift it up freeing it from the latch hook. 4. Remove bulb (three prongs should be easily felt). 5. Replace in reverse order. 6. Rubber boot has to fit into the groove in order for it to be propperly secured and functional. All this is done by feel so best of luck! And don't forget not to touch the new bulb with your fingers as your skin oil will become a contaminent and possibly ruin the bulb when it heats up. AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor 131K and counting! http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
tom_epp_NC
Moped
i've replaced mine using bob smith's method. you are working blind and have to go by feel but it can be done fairly easily.
slybonesjesse
Sport Tourer
I am with wizeguy. I remove the left side fairing pocket and reach in. Makes it simple, you are not doing it blind and plenty of room. In the dark you can also shine a light in there and see. Sure, you do not 'have to' remove anything. And I have done it that way several times. Thats why I now remove the inner fairing panel and do it the wizeguy way. To me its not that much extra time and saves a lot if cussing. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
tom_epp_NC
Moped
is that what that thing's for?
When you remove that piece of the fairing you you can get to the adjusters that control the direction of the headlight beam. ---- What about the little door under the upper fairing between the forks that was put there for removing the bulb? COG# 8837 2007 650 V-Strom 2006 ZG1000 Concours 1999 Turbocharged Vulcan Nomad 1979 KZ1000ST (a work in slow progress)
slybonesjesse
Sport Tourer
there are 3 in the pocket. One in the center bottom and two near the top front 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
tom_epp_NC
Moped
if my memory serves me correctly there are a total of five screws. three inside the box and two where your leg would be. turn bars to the right all the way. the screw in the bottom of the box has a little alignment pin next to it that you can't see unless looking from the bottom. if you pull up a little on the box as you lift the end of the inner cowling it should come loose. you have to raise the whole cowling up kinda high to get the hinge out from behind the upper inner cowling. i usually take the door off the box to make it easier to manipulate out of there. good luck.
slybonesjesse
Sport Tourer
I was thinking there were 2 up there. Thats what I am thining for the two top front ones. After looking I guess that one is not really hiding under the hinge. Close though. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
tom_epp_NC
Moped
i hate when that happens
Doug_Wood_IL
Bicycle
I took the access door off to look and see if it would make getting to the bulb that much easier, and from my pooint of view it doesn't. Taking the left inner panel/compartment out looks like it would be the quickest/easiest solution. Just one guys thoughts. Doug Wood DeSoto,IL AMA#1090587
Replacing the bulb's doable even for someone with big meaty claws like I have. Look first with a flash light so you can see what you're handling but the only tricky parts are figuring out the clip and ensuring that the boot snaps back into place when you're reassembling. You definitely don't want any moisture getting in there. My low beam went out at a gas station and I took off w/no problem from the pump, turned right and accelerated and found myself doing 40mph in darkness. Very exhilerating, fortunately high-beam still worked though my fellow motorists were likely very annoyed. I turned the bars to the right and went in from the left. It's tight getting in but there's plenty of room once you are. Don't get any finger oil on the glass of the bulb. In short, just use the Force. 
Winterborn
Big Wheel
One question, everyone has been very clear about don't touch the bulb. Any problem with wearing nitrile or latex gloves? I would think this would prevent any accidental contact in tight quarters. Just curious.
There are three screws under the pocket cover. One in the bottom of the pocket, one at the upper outside corner, and one more under the hinge. If all three screws are removed, you may be fighting the alignment peg on the bottom of the pocket. Put your fingers under the pocket and gently lift after you know all the screws are out. This should free the peg from the hole.
Gloves can cause the same problem if there is anything on them. What happens is contaminants like finger oils (or anything else that sticks to the bulb) burn and create hot spots, which create failures due to heat. I always try to use the packaging the bulb came in if I have to handle the glass portion of the bulb.