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I did it...Muzzy lowered...IMHO

nando

nando

Crotch Rocket
Thanks to Kapernicus, the install was a breeze with a 2x4 and a fulcrum cross 2x...lifted the tire and the bolts came out easily.

The bike does handle differently. I am not sure how anyone could say it does'nt. The longer front rake is likely NOT to be a positive change for hot-rodders. If this bike has a model marker half way between sport-n-touring, the lowering link move that marker toward touring a couple of notches and lessen its 'sport' character.

Those who lower the front also are likely to lose no more than clearance. BMW sells a lower version of the RT...tis probably what you get lowering both ends.

I like the way it sits on the freeway. The rear tire seem more settled at high speeds. Longer rakes make for better straight-away slab stability. I am guessing whoever expected the front tire to last longer with the links is going to be right. The front tire seems to take less of a brunt from braking and rough road. I could swear the front forks are actually working more efficiently now, but that is just a feeling.

The seating position is more comfortable for cruising style. Your butt make better use of the OEM seat and the leaning to the handlebars is less pronounced making the cruising more comfy. My head is even further down on my shield which makes it even less wind-buffeting.

Peddling the bike around is easier for my 5' 8.5" boyish figure. I could flatfoot before with straight legs; now I can extend my legs out further giving me a wider stance and lower center of gravity feel when maneuvering in tight quarter...less turning radius, but not that noticeable.

Overall, I think it is not worth lowering the C14 unless you have to. Maybe a drop of one inch instead of 1.5 might be more accommodating for my taste. I 'll probably try for a while, go back to stock again and ride for another while...before I make up my mind what to stay with.

Everyone knows the trauma of the 'stands'.
 
I have a 2010 that is lowered with muzzy links and the front tubes slid up in the clamps and the low seat from Sargents (Im 5'6'')
I think the bike handles very well and have no problem with ground clearance i just hang off more in corners ! and for the most can hang with the sport bikes in the twisty  stuff !  also have an 07 SV1000 that is lowered and it handles great !
 
I'm also at a loss as to the bad traits associated with lowering our bike. The ONLY things I have been able to come up with are;
a)  Centerstand you can forget unless you put a 1" board under the rear tire before raising.
b)  Your kickstand when on un-level ground you may not feel comfortable with the lean angle. I'm N the process of fixing that now.
So when it's all said and done (just my opinion) unless your Clint Eastwood with a 6' or more height I think the lowering links are GREAT! I wouldn't change a thing?
 
Phil said:
I'm also at a loss as to the bad traits associated with lowering our bike. The ONLY things I have been able to come up with are;
a)  Centerstand you can forget unless you put a 1" board under the rear tire before raising.
b)  Your kickstand when on un-level ground you may not feel comfortable with the lean angle. I'm N the process of fixing that now.
So when it's all said and done (just my opinion) unless your Clint Eastwood with a 6' or more height I think the lowering links are GREAT! I wouldn't change a thing?
Click to expand...

The fabrication on my shortened centerstand (minus 2") is almost complete. Not enough room below the cross-brace to cut 2" out (could do 1-1/2" probably, making it easier to fab) so cut it out above the brace. This forced relocation of the spring anchor pin, and where the foot lever attaches with all that gusseting, a notch has to be cut in it to allow the spring to reach the relocated anchor pin, otherwise the gussetting is in the way. So that had to be cut, and boxed, and won't lose any strength, but adds fabrication time.

 
I got Soupy's coming...not here yet and I am pooping my pants everytime I leave the bike on the OEM stand...Precisiin Engineer also makes on that is actually better looking...could not tell u which is stronger... The complain on the Soupy is that the end is shaped like an arrow...what a dumb idea....I ll pribably have it reshaped with a flat footing...The engineer stand is cute but looks flimsy to me on the pic...I could be completely wrong about that
 
nando said:
Thanks to Kapernicus, the install was a breeze with a 2x4 and a fulcrum cross 2x...lifted the tire and the bolts came out easily.

The bike does handle differently. I am not sure how anyone could say it does'nt. The longer front rake is likely NOT to be a positive change for hot-rodders. If this bike has a model marker half way between sport-n-touring, the lowering link move that marker toward touring a couple of notches and lessen its 'sport' character.

Those who lower the front also are likely to lose no more than clearance. BMW sells a lower version of the RT...tis probably what you get lowering both ends.

I like the way it sits on the freeway. The rear tire seem more settled at high speeds. Longer rakes make for better straight-away slab stability. I am guessing whoever expected the front tire to last longer with the links is going to be right. The front tire seems to take less of a brunt from braking and rough road. I could swear the front forks are actually working more efficiently now, but that is just a feeling.

The seating position is more comfortable for cruising style. Your butt make better use of the OEM seat and the leaning to the handlebars is less pronounced making the cruising more comfy. My head is even further down on my shield which makes it even less wind-buffeting.

Peddling the bike around is easier for my 5' 8.5" boyish figure. I could flatfoot before with straight legs; now I can extend my legs out further giving me a wider stance and lower center of gravity feel when maneuvering in tight quarter...less turning radius, but not that noticeable.

Overall, I think it is not worth lowering the C14 unless you have to. Maybe a drop of one inch instead of 1.5 might be more accommodating for my taste. I 'll probably try for a while, go back to stock again and ride for another while...before I make up my mind what to stay with.

Everyone knows the trauma of the 'stands'.

i agree with all of your comments including lower the connie only if you have to.  i have lowered the connie to get my feet down and lessen the chance of a tip over.  much better to live with now.  as far as the bike handling different, i would say only very experienced rider would detect the steering being a little slower turning in.  an experienced rider knowing the steering has slowed, will use a bit more counter steering.  i think most guys on a connie have been riding long enough to compensate with a little more countering steering, whether it be intuitive or intended.  i did not drop the front, mainly for the postive points you posted.  plus, lowering links do cause excessive peg dragging, for more aggressive riders.  i decided to leave the real aggressive riding for my literbikes and live with the small "cons" versus the many "pros" the lowering links effect.  the good thing is the links are cheap and easy to remove if one does not like the results.  for me the links stopped the slidding forward on the tank and weight in the hands, which was a real "pain".
Click to expand...
 
A lot on riding comfort has to do with muscle memory. In other words, whatever your body gets used to. I remember the first time I rode a crouch rocket I thought I was gonna fall off my seat in front of the bike and run over myself. It seems like I was looking over the top of the front tire. I had a hard time making a U turn with that thing. That was because I was coming off many years of chopper and cruisers.

I have heard guys claims they don't get how anyone could ride a bike sitting up straight. A dirt-rider told me he rode a cruiser and the straight up sitting position felt like he could not control the bike.

I am getting used to riding with the lower rear end and longer rake and liking it.

Nevertheless, there is not doubt the C14 loses something on the transition when it is not on its original stock geometry. If you are a hot-rodder and can reach the ground...leave it be.
 
JR said:
Phil said:
I'm also at a loss as to the bad traits associated with lowering our bike. The ONLY things I have been able to come up with are;
a)  Centerstand you can forget unless you put a 1" board under the rear tire before raising.
b)  Your kickstand when on un-level ground you may not feel comfortable with the lean angle. I'm N the process of fixing that now.
So when it's all said and done (just my opinion) unless your Clint Eastwood with a 6' or more height I think the lowering links are GREAT! I wouldn't change a thing?
Click to expand...

The fabrication on my shortened centerstand (minus 2") is almost complete. Not enough room below the cross-brace to cut 2" out (could do 1-1/2" probably, making it easier to fab) so cut it out above the brace. This forced relocation of the spring anchor pin, and where the foot lever attaches with all that gusseting, a notch has to be cut in it to allow the spring to reach the relocated anchor pin, otherwise the gussetting is in the way. So that had to be cut, and boxed, and won't lose any strength, but adds fabrication time.
Click to expand...
All that was cut out of my center stand was 1".  Alittle higher off of the asph but fine.
Lizard
 
Phil said:
Nando
Which adjustable did you go with? How many (inch or inches did you allow?)
Click to expand...

Sorry to get back at you so late, haven't looked at this thread in a while

I got the sidestand from PrecisionEngineering...it seemed a lot better quality than the adjustable type...I got the PE one inch shorter and it worked find with the bike lowered ONLy on the rear
 
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