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Keeping your carbs from clogging up

K

keithvasan

Training Wheels
I plan on riding my Connie only once in about 2 or 3 weeks. Right now my carbs have been cleaned and fuel tank flushed and cleaned. Any advise on how to keep the carbs from getting clogged up again, with this ride frequency of once in about 20 days ?

Does it help just opening the petcock to prime, for 30 secs every week, without starting the motor ?

How about adding fuel stabilizer on a regular basis with every fill up, to insure against (unforeseen) longer periods of non-operation?

Also I plan to fill the tank after each ride, whenever possible, to prevent rust build up in the tanks. Does this help ?

Thanks for any advise.
 
fuel stabilizer is a good choice. I, and many others here, use TCW3 two stroke oil, at a ratio of 1 oz / 4 gal in the tank. since doing this I've not had any pilot jet clogging issues. HTH, Steve
 
My advice, for good or ill, would be this...

Yes to fuel stabilizer whether you run the two smoke oil or not (but if you are going to allow the extended parking, the oil might be a good idea).
When shutting the bike down for a brief, yet extended, stay of two weeks to a month... I would pull the vacuum lie from the petcock and allow the bike to run out of fuel.  I would do this with the bike either on the centerstand or while sitting astride holding the bike upright.  This will permit the carbs to drain as far as possible and eliminate the fuel sitting above the float valves.  Yes, this will cause them to sit dry and open, but the Viton will not be in contact with the alky in the fuel and with the fuel level reduced, neither will most of the other internal parts of the carbs.  The reduction of fuel in the bowls also will eliminate/minimize the gumming or sediment-like deposits left behind by fuel evaporation in the bowls, jets, idle circuits, etc. 

If the bike does NOT run out of fuel doing this, you obviously have a malfunctioning petcock that you will want to address (success does not guaranty your petcock is good, but failure DOES guaranty it is malfunctioning).  After the bike shuts off, replace the vacuum line so that the bike will be ready to go upon fire up.  When returning to the bike for the restart, you WILL, of course, have to put the petcock to PRI for a few minutes to restore the fuel level in the bowls.  Again, I'd recommend doing this with the bike on the centerstand or otherwise held upright.

Carbureted outboard boat owners (all are using TCW3) always perform a similar ritual in order to prevent the same problems Connie can suffer.  Well, either they do these things or they soon learn to do them because most boats are not used on a daily basis.  These are just my opinions and worth what ya paid fer em. 
 
Rev Ryder said:
... I would pull the vacuum lie from the petcock and allow the bike to run out of fuel.  I would do this with the bike either on the centerstand or while sitting astride holding the bike upright.  This will permit the carbs to drain as far as possible and eliminate the fuel sitting above the float valves. 
Click to expand...

I run my KLR dry most of the time since I don't know when I will be riding it.  I keep thinking I will get a pingel for the C10 for this same purpose.  Now I wonder if there is some sort of in-line valve I could put on the vacuum line of the C10? 
 
if you have a valve on the vacuum line and the petcock inside malfunctions the valve on the vacuum line won't help. but if you have a valve on the fuel line anything before it malfunctioning wont matter becasue the fuel will be interrupted.
 
DC Concours said:
if you have a valve on the vacuum line and the petcock inside malfunctions the valve on the vacuum line won't help. but if you have a valve on the fuel line anything before it malfunctioning wont matter becasue the fuel will be interrupted.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I thought you were addressing me, not SmokinRZ. 
So I thought you were saying to PULL the fuel line rather than the vacuum line.  That would not be as effective since the fuel would stop to the carbs, but it would continue to flow as long as the vacuum from the still running engine was applied.  My bad reading comprehension I guess. Sorry.

One COULD clamp a hemostat onto the vacuum line OR the fuel line and shut off fuel flow without disconnecting anything and then remove the hemos ater the engine dies, but eventually the hose will suffer wear and tear from that.  If one was to put a valve in any line, you might as well put it in the fuel line and just do away with the petcock (as many have done) but that's another thread. 
 
Rev Ryder said:
  These are just my opinions and worth what ya paid fer em.
Click to expand...

RevRyder,
I really like the above disclaimer ! LOL
I think I will do the fuel-burn-out routine, probably for anticipated longer periods of non-use.

Otherwise, I will just run the motor for about 5 minutes in the garage once in about 10 days. I think about 5 mts of idling, should cycle through one float bowl of gas, so it is like replacing the gas in the carbs each time I do it. (Unless my neighbor has any issues with the added noise pollution.)

Steve, Thanks for the tip on adding 2T Oil. But I still cannot figure out whether TCW3 is better than Sta-bil, ot is it for other reasons? If it is Sta-bil, then I can use that for my lawn mower too !

Sorry for these elementary / newbie questions.
Thanks

 
None,
Running the bike for short periods of time and then letting it sit will cause it's own problems. Condensation in the crankcase for one. NOT GOOD!  If you are going to run it it needs to get completely up to temp and stay there for a short time in order to remove all the moisture buildup in the crankcase form the last "cooling off" period. Best to leave it OFF and just start it when you are going to ride it.
Matt
 
None, while running the bike for a few minutes can be good for the carbs and even the battery, it's not a recommended practice since the engine will not get warned up enough and there will be more condensation in the exhaust and inside the cases and valve cover. The moisture will cause possibly as many issues as the short runs may eliminate. If you run it, run it long enough to build good engine heat.
 
I use the additives and oil in the gas and drain the carb float bowls when the bike is expected to be parked for over two weeks.  Never had an issue even with the crab gas we are forced to use. 
 
I can't equivocally says this is long enough, but if the bike must sit for more than a week, I'll go ahead and start it up.  After about a minute of warmup, I'll set the throttle to 1.8K rpm with the throttle lock and let it run until the cooling fan goes through 1 On-Off cycle.  This takes about 10 minutes, or half a libation, depending on the ambient temperature.  At that point she's warm enough that you can't touch the mufflers.
 
In South Texas we prefer Gulf Shrimp Gas.  Down here, IF we have to stoop to Crab Gas, it's usually Blue Crab Gas and while it's "passable" it's certainly no Snow Crab Gas. But hey... any crustacean in a tank that'll keep her eatin' will suffice.
 
this fall I used the marine sta-bil AND the TCW3 oil.  put away ~Oct.  early Feb we had a particularly warm dry sunny couple of days ending with a sunny & dry weekend.  normally I'd also drain the carbs over the winter.  I was busy and didn't get a chance and finally it was miserable enough in the garage I lost all interest in draining the carbs.  so, when that particular Saturday arrived, turned to prime for a wee bit, then back to normal, then hit the starter.  took a little longer to start than normal, but that always happens in the spring anyway.  once it got running it settled right down into a smooth idle.  went for a ~150 mile ride.  no stutters, shakes, hesitation, or anything.  cool.  still think I probably should drain the carbs over winter but am a lot less inclined to do that now, though I'm sure it's beneficial if you do drain the carbs.
-Brian 
 
None said:
Thanks for the tip on adding 2T Oil. But I still cannot figure out whether TCW3 is better than Sta-bil, ot is it for other reasons? If it is Sta-bil, then I can use that for my lawn mower too !

Sorry for these elementary / newbie questions.
Click to expand...

I hope one of the gurus here will back me me, but I believe you want to add both items, especially if you ride infrequently or you anticipate parking your bike for an extended period of time.

Sta-bil (or something similar) is meant to preserve the integrity of the fuel by slowing the breakdown of gas, plus some of the formulations also are supposed to lessen the negative impacts of ethanol in gas (another thread altogether).  Gasoline has a very limited shelf life; Sta-bil should be used when the fuel will be around for a longer period of time (weeks, months, or longer). You would want to use Sta-bil whether the fuel is in you bike, your car, or in a little red container in you storage shed - it's all about the fuel itself.

The TCW3 is all about the carbs, especially vented carbs that will dry out if parked long enough.  The additive would not be beneficial for a closed fuel system like the FI C14.  The TCW3 leaves a thin coating on the surfaces of your carbs, kind of like spraying cooking spray on your pots and pans.  When your bike is parked for a while some fuel evaporates, but the gunk floating in, or dissolved in, the fuel is left behind.  The gunk will want to stick to something.  If this cycle of filling the carbs and letting the bowl dry out repeats itself often enough, the built up gunk will start causing problems.  The thin layer of TCW3 will help prevent the gunk from adhering to the carb surfaces and it be more likely to go back into solution next time the carbs are filled and will be burnt up when you next ride your bike. 
 
TinDog said:
None said:
Thanks for the tip on adding 2T Oil. But I still cannot figure out whether TCW3 is better than Sta-bil, ot is it for other reasons? If it is Sta-bil, then I can use that for my lawn mower too !

Sorry for these elementary / newbie questions.
Click to expand...

I hope one of the gurus here will back me, but I believe you want to add both items, especially if you ride infrequently or you anticipate parking your bike for an extended period of time.

Sta-bil (or something similar) is meant to preserve the integrity of the fuel by slowing the breakdown of gas, plus some of the formulations also are supposed to lessen the negative impacts of ethanol in gas (another thread altogether).  Gasoline has a very limited shelf life; Sta-bil should be used when the fuel will be around for a longer period of time (weeks, months, or longer). You would want to use Sta-bil whether the fuel is in you bike, your car, or in a little red container in you storage shed - it's all about the fuel itself.

The TCW3 is all about the carbs, especially vented carbs that will dry out if parked long enough.  The additive would not be beneficial for a closed fuel system like the FI C14.  The TCW3 leaves a thin coating on the surfaces of your carbs, kind of like spraying cooking spray on your pots and pans.  When your bike is parked for a while some fuel evaporates, but the gunk floating in, or dissolved in, the fuel is left behind.  The gunk will want to stick to something.  If this cycle of filling the carbs and letting the bowl dry out repeats itself often enough, the built up gunk will start causing problems.  The thin layer of TCW3 will help prevent the gunk from adhering to the carb surfaces and it be more likely to go back into solution next time the carbs are filled and will be burnt up when you next ride your bike.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Tindog. Found this very helpful.
 
Rev Ryder said:
In South Texas we prefer Gulf Shrimp Gas.  Down here, IF we have to stoop to Crab Gas, it's usually Blue Crab Gas and while it's "passable" it's certainly no Snow Crab Gas. But hey... any crustacean in a tank that'll keep her eatin' will suffice.
Click to expand...

Here in Illinois we don't get any crustaceans... we're stuck with Corn Gas. So TCW3 and Startron are added to the fuel.
Started her yesterday for the first time after about a two week sit with temps hovering around 10 degrees. Didn't touch the petcock except to reattach the fuel line... took about 3 cycles of cranking, about 3 secs each, full choke and she lit up.

Now receiving more snow.

Dear Winter,

Die. Now.

Sincerely, not a friend
 
TinDog said:
None said:
Thanks for the tip on adding 2T Oil. But I still cannot figure out whether TCW3 is better than Sta-bil, ot is it for other reasons? If it is Sta-bil, then I can use that for my lawn mower too !

Sorry for these elementary / newbie questions.
Click to expand...

I hope one of the gurus here will back me me, but I believe you want to add both items, especially if you ride infrequently or you anticipate parking your bike for an extended period of time.

Sta-bil (or something similar) is meant to preserve the integrity of the fuel by slowing the breakdown of gas, plus some of the formulations also are supposed to lessen the negative impacts of ethanol in gas (another thread altogether).  Gasoline has a very limited shelf life; Sta-bil should be used when the fuel will be around for a longer period of time (weeks, months, or longer). You would want to use Sta-bil whether the fuel is in you bike, your car, or in a little red container in you storage shed - it's all about the fuel itself.

The TCW3 is all about the carbs, especially vented carbs that will dry out if parked long enough.  The additive would not be beneficial for a closed fuel system like the FI C14.  The TCW3 leaves a thin coating on the surfaces of your carbs, kind of like spraying cooking spray on your pots and pans.  When your bike is parked for a while some fuel evaporates, but the gunk floating in, or dissolved in, the fuel is left behind.  The gunk will want to stick to something.  If this cycle of filling the carbs and letting the bowl dry out repeats itself often enough, the built up gunk will start causing problems.  The thin layer of TCW3 will help prevent the gunk from adhering to the carb surfaces and it be more likely to go back into solution next time the carbs are filled and will be burnt up when you next ride your bike. 
Click to expand...
With the TCW3.....IMO this coating may also benefit the fuel tank thinking it could help keep inside surface preserved as well as those places in a tank where everything settles that lead to rust/rot. 
 
I have been an avid user of Marvel Mystery oil in my 2007 f150 (175,000+ miles). Does anyone else use this in their Connie? I have been contemplating doing so and the mention of the 2-stroke oil has me thinking about it more.

Peace
Jay
 
use the tcw-3. it's ashless, and leaves no residue in the combustion chamber, in fact it has a strong cleaning package and actually helps clean the valves and combustion chamber. it's also really inexpensive (cheap ) to use - I did the math at one time, iirc each tank treatment cost 10 -15 cents. Steve
 
  Yeah, cheap and it works. :)  Use it all summer long when I know the bike may sit for a few days. In the winter it's Stabil and TCW 3 for storage. It's been a LOOONG winter. :mad:  My lawn mower gets the same treatment.
 
Maybe I'm the only one, but I thought I'd mention it for the other noobs out there: TCW3 is not a brand name, but a certification. Basically any marine 2-stroke oil with the TCW3 certification is what you want. I'm doing all my yearly maintenance now in the winter (yea new heated garage) and pickup up a pint of the stuff. I plan on using it every tank to keep things nice and clean. Just got the full spa treatment for the carbs from sisf, and I want to keep them that way as long as possible. It helps that I have access to E0 gas here. That all said, Stabil and draining the carbs for winter storage is a must, as well as the battery tender.
 
TCW3 or Marvel Mystery oil work just peachy  :)

The advantage of TCW3 is it's lubricity.  The advantage to Marvel is everything else, it's like a liquid Swiss Army knife.
 
Well....being the good Connie owner I am trying to be, I went yesterday and got a quart of TCW3 and 2-1oz bottles. I added an ounce to the tank (3/4 full) and filled the 2 little bottles to keep in one of the side pockets so I have it with me at the next couple of fill-ups. Might just as well use it in my truck instead of MMO. Though I wonder about using both.....at the same time.

Peace
Jay
 
Jayfrog214 said:
Well....being the good Connie owner I am trying to be, I went yesterday and got a quart of TCW3 and 2-1oz bottles. I added an ounce to the tank (3/4 full) and filled the 2 little bottles to keep in one of the side pockets so I have it with me at the next couple of fill-ups. Might just as well use it in my truck instead of MMO. Though I wonder about using both.....at the same time.

Peace
Jay
Click to expand...
  Really not necessary and a waste of $$ to use both. TCW 3 works just fine and cost less. I buy it by the gallon at Walmart for about $13 and it last a whole long time. For winter storage I add both Sta Bil and TCW 3.
 
Hello Jayfrog:

If your truck is a late model with catalytic converters and o2 or Lambda sensors do NOT use two stroke oil.

Marvel is okay it will not harm anything, it will also help keep your fuel pump and injectors clean and lubricated.

 
My winter prep this season was a little lazy, but I am not too worried. Both bikes have tanks that are entirely E0, and should have a bit of Startron in each. And given the Connie's tank volume, I know there is a mild TCW3 mixture as well. I am curious to see if there is still fuel in the bowls, I feel like in this insanely cold weather fuel doesn't evaporate as fast.
 
So, if I'm reading all this right, not all 2 cycle oil is TCW3, right? I have 3 bottles of oil but none of them give a specification.
 
Mark said:
So, if I'm reading all this right, not all 2 cycle oil is TCW3, right? I have 3 bottles of oil but none of them give a specification.
Click to expand...

TCW3 is a Marine 2 cycle oil, which is the ideal one to use. But I too have bottles of old brands of generic 2 stroke, likely most are ashless and will work. An oz or two per massive Connie tank is not much compared to a 50:1 or 35:1 dirtbike 2-cycle mix.
 
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