KiPASS Issue

[Bmar]

While on a trip to Austin, TX, to visit with friends from college and to attend the United States Grand Prix two weeks ago a KiPASS problem arose.  I was riding in 30 degree weather on my way to Birmingham, AL, I got cold and stopped at a Waffle House to change my wet riding boots, eat pie and drink coffee.  After warming up I returned to my 2010 C-14 pressed the stove key.  Nothing!  Oh Crap.  After replacing the battery in the FOB, checking all of the fuses, attempting to jump start the battery and removing the battery to have it tested at a car parts store still nothing.  So I got a tow to Mountain Motorsports in Marietta, GA.  I wondered the show room pondering how long I would be stuck in Georgia when I wanted to be in Alabama.  After about 45 minutes the mechanic came out and said he had the problem fixed.  He told me he checked everything that made sense and than called Kawasaki Technical Support.  They said, "This might sound barbaric, but hit the ignition with a hammer."  It worked.  A swithch in the ignition system stuck and needed some persuasion for the switch to releas.  Supposedly Kawasaki has a heavier spring to replace the stock spring to help prevent the switch from sticking.  I haven't had time to contact my local dealer to have the work completed yet, but this week it will happen. 

So if you try to start your bike and the KiPASS system doesn't start whack the stove key with a rubber mallet.  I hope this saves someone a tow and the stress on a long trip of having problems.

Brad Martin

 

[Fred H.]

He told me he checked everything that made sense and than called Kawasaki Technical Support.  They said, "This might sound barbaric, but hit the ignition with a hammer."  It worked. 

Gee, I wonder where they got that idea from.  :rotflmao:

 

[B.D.F.]

Yeah, the stuck activation switch has been an occasional problem on C-14's. It also causes a lot of anxiety which seems to be far more of a problem for most people than the switch actually sticking. It just isn't fun using a vehicle while wondering if you might be the next lucky winner of the 'who's switch is stuck today' contest.

Quite a while ago I developed a work- around for a stuck activation switch. Unfortunately the original mod. required the purchase of some electrical parts, soldering and cutting into the bike's harness. As a simpler work- around, I developed a by-pass harness which virtually anyone can install, can be removed with no residual effect to the bike, and will absolutely get around a stuck activation switch 100% of the time. So while beating on the ignition switch housing does have a certain primal satisfaction, there is also this solution:

The sub harness is exactly like an extension cord, you simply open the factory connector and place the new harness in-line. The sub harness has a pig tail that contains a fuse- should the activation switch fail or stick 'ON' as does occasionally happen, simply remove and reinsert the fuse and KiPass will activate (exactly as it does when you press down on the ignition key). The pig tail is placed in a convenient position under a fairing cover where it can be reached and used while sitting on the bike (no fumbling around in the dark).

NOTE: you will still need a functioning fob to start the bike! This harness DOES NOT by pass KiPass, only the KiPass activation switch. This harness cannot be used to replace a lost / broken fob or steal a C-14. This by pass does address the only problem that KiPass has ever had, to the best of my knowledge, 100% of the time though and cannot fail to work around a stuck switch.

This product is made in the USA from the best components available. The connectors themselves are Japanese. Price is $50 including delivery anywhere in the continental US. Delivery elsewhere for the actual cost of shipping via USPS minus the $5 charge that domestic delivery costs me (Canadian shipping has been $13 in the past, which means the final price of the harness is $58 delivered to Canada for example). Anyone interested can contact me via e-mail by clicking on the little envelope icon on this page.

A few photos:

The sub- harness itself:

The stock connector on a C-14:

The sub- harness installed into the bike's harness:

And, of course, this product is fully endorsed by Kirby. In fact, it is the second generation of Kirby's KiPass Korrection Kit.

Of course this is a commercial product but I thought it was relevant to the original post and might be of interest to some C-14 owners.

Brian

<snipped description of KiPass activation switch sticking>

So if you try to start your bike and the KiPASS system doesn't start whack the stove key with a rubber mallet.  I hope this saves someone a tow and the stress on a long trip of having problems.

Brad Martin

 

[professorkonk]

Unsolicited testimonial: I have one of Brian's bypass harnesses, and it is a thoroughly professional, well-made product. A nice slice of peace-of-mind for those of us with a preppers mentality! I have (at least) two long trips coming up this spring/summer, and a stuck switch will be one thing I won't have to worry about. And as far as I know, this may be the one farkle I have that ZG does not already own!!
)

 

[zg]

And as far as I know, this may be the one farkle I have that ZG does not already own!!
)

 

[556ALPHA]

Unsolicited testimonial: I have one of Brian's bypass harnesses, and it is a thoroughly professional, well-made product. A nice slice of peace-of-mind for those of us with a preppers mentality! I have (at least) two long trips coming up this spring/summer, and a stuck switch will be one thing I won't have to worry about. And as far as I know, this may be the one farkle I have that ZG does not already own!!
)

+1

 

[tlr-boise]

Question about the Kawasaki fix: 

When they advised to "hit the ignition with a hammer."  I ask, where's "the ignition"?

 

[Conrad]

Instead of hitting the switch with a hammer a MUCH easier solution is to press the stove knob switch down and hold it, then let your finger slip off to the side allowing the knob to snap back into place. Do this a few times till the switch gets unstuck. It doesn't always work (so I've been told) but you can always resort to hammer time if it doesn't.

After this bit of fun, go ahead and buy Brian's harness.

 

[mcgyver74]

I thought the 2010+ already had the stiffer spring?

 

[Cap'n Bob]

I thought the 2010+ already had the stiffer spring?

:-X

 

[B.D.F.]

I think the stiffer spring showed up on 2011 models but at any rate, people with 2012's have been stuck with this same problem. The stiffer spring reduces the number of instances but does not eliminate the problem. The true 'fix' access to the mechanical switch inside the ign. switch housing so that it can be positively opened. Even a 'poke hole' fix like Mac's use to eject a disk when the machine has no power would work. But the best solution would be a mechanical coupling that forced the switch open when the ign. key was pulled up; that way if the switch did stick, you would 1) see that it was stuck and 2) bring mechanical force to bear to force it open and 3) know that when the key returned to its original height, the activation switch was absolute certainty. Remember, early electrical switches were knife switches- crude to be sure but absolutely reliable and the user knew with absolute certainty when it was engaged AND disengaged. There is a lesson there....

Brian

I thought the 2010+ already had the stiffer spring?

 

[mcgyver74]

So how hard is it to replace the spring with a stiffer one?  Not that I am planning to, I have a bypass installed so I won't get stranded, but was just curious what would be involved

 

[B.D.F.]

Do you mean after your remove the ign. switch assembly housing and drill out the tamper proof screws or including that....

;D

It is a fair amount of work, requires a drill and drill bit and some time. And you cannot get the spring 'cause Kawasaki is keeping that mum- it has no part number and is not available other than to dealers, for them to install.

Brian

So how hard is it to replace the spring with a stiffer one?  Not that I am planning to, I have a bypass installed so I won't get stranded, but was just curious what would be involved

 

[firstsage]

All,
I am having this issue just two months after buying my bike.... I have been talking to my dealer a lot and basically their solution is to take the assebmly apart, clean it and put it back together. Since I have no part number to reference for the heavry spring, they can't order one and put it in for me..... The only other option he gave me was getting a whole new ingintion switch which he said would require a new ECU.... I am getting really frustrated now as we are doing a long weekend ride to Moab, UT with some friends. Having this hanging over me all weekend is going to suck! 
Does anyone know of a dealer that has dealt with this that I could speak to to help my dealer understand what needs to happen??? 
Or does anyone have a quick guide on taking the housing off to get to the spring? I cant see off hand how to remove it.

Thanks for any help!

Jon

 

[B.D.F.]

Kawasaki is well aware of this problem. They have introduced a stronger spring to help lessen the incidence of the KiPass activation switch sticking.

Taking the ignition housing assembly apart if a fair amount of work, involves drilling out security screws and a lot of disassembly and reassembly.

Changing the ignition switch assembly does NOT require a new ECU but it does require that the KiPass ECU be re-programmed to recognize the new ign. switch ass'y. Your dealer will need the KDS hardware / software package to do this service which should not take more than an hour, probably a bit less than that.

If at all possible, I would suggest finding another dealer- it does not sound like the dealer you are currently using has much experience with C-14's.

There are other solutions to getting the bike going in a pinch, ranging from beating on the ignition switch with a rock to taking apart a connector under the top / left fairing to a commercial solution which I do not want to elaborate on.

In the end, this is really Kawasaki's problem in the long term and they will almost certainly replace or repair the ignition switch ass'y. It sounds like your dealer is not willing or able to deliver the warranty service on this part of the bike though.

Brian

All,
I am having this issue just two months after buying my bike.... I have been talking to my dealer a lot and basically their solution is to take the assebmly apart, clean it and put it back together. Since I have no part number to reference for the heavry spring, they can't order one and put it in for me..... The only other option he gave me was getting a whole new ingintion switch which he said would require a new ECU.... I am getting really frustrated now as we are doing a long weekend ride to Moab, UT with some friends. Having this hanging over me all weekend is going to suck! 
Does anyone know of a dealer that has dealt with this that I could speak to to help my dealer understand what needs to happen??? 
Or does anyone have a quick guide on taking the housing off to get to the spring? I cant see off hand how to remove it.

Thanks for any help!

Jon

 

[firstsage]

Kawasaki is well aware of this problem. They have introduced a stronger spring to help lessen the incidence of the KiPass activation switch sticking.

Taking the ignition housing assembly apart if a fair amount of work, involves drilling out security screws and a lot of disassembly and reassembly.

Changing the ignition switch assembly does NOT require a new ECU but it does require that the KiPass ECU be re-programmed to recognize the new ign. switch a**'y. Your dealer will need the KDS hardware / software package to do this service which should not take more than an hour, probably a bit less than that.

If at all possible, I would suggest finding another dealer- it does not sound like the dealer you are currently using has much experience with C-14's.

There are other solutions to getting the bike going in a pinch, ranging from beating on the ignition switch with a rock to taking apart a connector under the top / left fairing to a commercial solution which I do not want to elaborate on.

In the end, this is really Kawasaki's problem in the long term and they will almost certainly replace or repair the ignition switch a**'y. It sounds like your dealer is not willing or able to deliver the warranty service on this part of the bike though.

Brian

All,
I am having this issue just two months after buying my bike.... I have been talking to my dealer a lot and basically their solution is to take the assebmly apart, clean it and put it back together. Since I have no part number to reference for the heavry spring, they can't order one and put it in for me..... The only other option he gave me was getting a whole new ingintion switch which he said would require a new ECU.... I am getting really frustrated now as we are doing a long weekend ride to Moab, UT with some friends. Having this hanging over me all weekend is going to suck! 
Does anyone know of a dealer that has dealt with this that I could speak to to help my dealer understand what needs to happen??? 
Or does anyone have a quick guide on taking the housing off to get to the spring? I cant see off hand how to remove it.

Thanks for any help!

Jon

Thanks for the info! I did call another dealer and did some research as well.
I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otvC_AlqxUI that was very helpful. Seems the issue is a combonation of the spring and the solenoid. I stopped by my normal mechanic (not the dealer but an amazing mom and pop shop. Brady does AMAZING work!  ) and after looking at the vid he gave me a decent sized piece of brass to smack the metal housing shown in the vid. So far so good! Hopefully now this weekend will be full of  :motonoises: and not  :'(  and :truce:....
On the commercial option listed above, does this solution no longer require the keyfob? Or does it just bypass locking the key so I need to remove it when I park?

Thanks for the help and feedback!

Jon

 

[B.D.F.]

That video is showing the solenoid that locks the key in place. It is a symptom of the problem of a stuck activation switch, not the cause. The new, stronger spring does not go there, it goes under a switch on the other side (the left side) of the ignition switch assembly. The reason it may appear that the solenoid is the problem is because when KiPass is activated, one of the things that happens is that that solenoid retracts a shot- pin and allows the key to be turned. But the real problem is that the activation switch sticks down or 'ON'; even is that solenoid were physically removed and you could turn the key, KiPass would not allow the bike to be started.

This problem is not really any part of KiPass, it is just the system activation switch. C-14's always need a valid fob to start the bike and there is no practical, feasible way around that.

Again, Kawasaki has a stronger spring that a dealer can put in the ignition switch housing under the activation switch. It reduces the chances of the switch sticking.

Best of luck with the switch.

Brian

Thanks for the info! I did call another dealer and did some research as well.
I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otvC_AlqxUI that was very helpful. Seems the issue is a combonation of the spring and the solenoid. I stopped by my normal mechanic (not the dealer but an amazing mom and pop shop. Brady does AMAZING work!  ) and after looking at the vid he gave me a decent sized piece of brass to smack the metal housing shown in the vid. So far so good! Hopefully now this weekend will be full of  :motonoises: and not  :'(  and :truce:....
On the commercial option listed above, does this solution no longer require the keyfob? Or does it just bypass locking the key so I need to remove it when I park?

Thanks for the help and feedback!

Jon

 

[firstsage]

Thanks for the info. I appologize for my newbness on the subject.
At this point, I have purchased the harness you mentioned at the top of the thread so I no longer have to worry about it.  .
I have a workaround for this weekends trip and will be installing the harness as soon as it arrives.
Thanks again for all your help and putting up with my questions!

Jon

That video is showing the solenoid that locks the key in place. It is a symptom of the problem of a stuck activation switch, not the cause. The new, stronger spring does not go there, it goes under a switch on the other side (the left side) of the ignition switch assembly. The reason it may appear that the solenoid is the problem is because when KiPass is activated, one of the things that happens is that that solenoid retracts a shot- pin and allows the key to be turned. But the real problem is that the activation switch sticks down or 'ON'; even is that solenoid were physically removed and you could turn the key, KiPass would not allow the bike to be started.

This problem is not really any part of KiPass, it is just the system activation switch. C-14's always need a valid fob to start the bike and there is no practical, feasible way around that.

Again, Kawasaki has a stronger spring that a dealer can put in the ignition switch housing under the activation switch. It reduces the chances of the switch sticking.

Best of luck with the switch.

Brian

 

[gtr1400kaw]

For months now I`v  been suffering with a problem with the KIPASS ignition switch not working properly. The only way I could switch the ignition on was to bash the top hat, with a gloved hand, or knock the side of the ignition switch with a spanner and wait for a click before I could turn the ignition on.
First of all I took the side cover off the switch to revel the solenoid and give that a good clean with some electrical contact cleaner, but no joy still same problem.
Then I put some 3in1 into the key slot but nothing. Then I noticed that the top ring moved up and down and under the piece of ring that sticks out to the left at 9 o`clock there is a micro switch that had become stuck. After a bit of gentle prodding with a small narrow screwdriver and some electrical contact cleaner and some 3in1 the micro switch is now free and the KIPASS switch top hat is now activated with a slightest touch and not a bashing as before.




It would seem this micro switch might  be the cause of a lot of peoples KIPASS problems and their not been aware that the switch is even there. It could be its not the spring or solenoid but this hidden micro switch that's been the root of the problem all a long,  getting crudded up and sticking.  This micro switch when the top hat is pushed down is what activates the KIPASS and allows the ignition to be turned on to start the bike.  At the end of the day its just a case of keeping this micro switch clean and  free. No need for work around mods and extra switchs to trick the KIPASS.
 

Hope this helps anyone who is having a problem with their KIPASS ignition switch.