My bike was down for a few months while I, slowly, tackled the job of checking and setting the valve clearances and balancing the throttle bodies. My KIPASS RF fob would not work to start the bike, but I assumed it was because the fob battery was dead, and I was able to start and test the bike using the built-in proximity fob. However, even with new batteries installed correctly (positive side) down, neither of my RF fobs work. The ignition switch and proximity fobs work fine. Suggestions?
-
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE ABLE TO POST? REGISTER FOR COG MEMBERSHIP
All registration must be done through the club's main webpage: To register / join COG, click here
For instructions to convert to full membership, click here
-
Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
KIPASS not working
- Thread starter jerrylking
- Start date
That's the passive function that's working, not the KIProximityASS function that uses the battery in the fob. It's the 'immobiliser' emergency function that got it started, which is regisateres to the ign switch ECU as you know. I'll get back about the issue tho soon.
Last edited:
Simple things: 1. what volts are the two new batteries showing?
2. are the contacts clean where the two halves of the fob circuit touch? Rub them with an eraser anyway.
3. if 1 & 2 are ok does squeezing the fob while pressing & releasing the stove knob/key wake it up?
4. was the 'active' function of the fobs functioning beforehand?
2. are the contacts clean where the two halves of the fob circuit touch? Rub them with an eraser anyway.
3. if 1 & 2 are ok does squeezing the fob while pressing & releasing the stove knob/key wake it up?
4. was the 'active' function of the fobs functioning beforehand?
Last edited:
Thanks!!! You solved part of my problem, but there still is a problem. I got one of the fobs to work. When I opened it, I did not realize it, but apparently the internal PC card went flying and ended up on my kitchen floor. I found it outside, on the patio, where my new puppy had carried it. After reading your post, I examined it closely and realized that she had bitten down on it and had bent the two prongs on the PC card that are supposed to make contact with the battery. I bent the two prongs back in place, and, voila, it works. That, however, does not explain why my other fob does not work. The battery voltage is 3.08 volts, and I replaced it with a fresh battery at 3.33 volts, but that made no difference. I tried bending up the prongs, also, to get a better contact, but no luck. What I'm wondering is this--the second fob is a spare that I carry with the battery uninstalled so that it can be on the bike without energizing the ignition system. Is it possible that it has lost its memory after being stored for a long time without a battery?
One FOB is now working while the other is not.
Questions I would ask/investigate:
- Has the non working FOB ever worked as an active FOB (not needing to hold it against the stove pipe)?
- Have you tested the voltage of the FOB battery from the battery prongs of the FOB while installed to verify it is transmitting current to the circuit board and there is adequate contact?
My thoughts:
If the active portion of a FOB is registered properly to the ECU it will work when provided adequate power (by battery) no matter how long it has been without power. Even if the motorcycle is without power (battery removed) for an extended period of time the ECU will remember what devices (TPMS, passive FOB, and active FOB) are registered with it.
My experience:
I changed a tire and the battery on a TPMS sensor. When everything was put back together the front TPMS sensor did not work (this was done while measuring the valves and took several months because of work obligations). Ultimately the TPMS sensor was found to be faulty (likely because I dropped it) and a new one was easily paired.
I hope this might help.
Questions I would ask/investigate:
- Has the non working FOB ever worked as an active FOB (not needing to hold it against the stove pipe)?
- Have you tested the voltage of the FOB battery from the battery prongs of the FOB while installed to verify it is transmitting current to the circuit board and there is adequate contact?
My thoughts:
If the active portion of a FOB is registered properly to the ECU it will work when provided adequate power (by battery) no matter how long it has been without power. Even if the motorcycle is without power (battery removed) for an extended period of time the ECU will remember what devices (TPMS, passive FOB, and active FOB) are registered with it.
My experience:
I changed a tire and the battery on a TPMS sensor. When everything was put back together the front TPMS sensor did not work (this was done while measuring the valves and took several months because of work obligations). Ultimately the TPMS sensor was found to be faulty (likely because I dropped it) and a new one was easily paired.
I hope this might help.
Yes, the second fob is original and it used to work. I think I will try swapping the PC cards in the two fobs. That will tell me if the problem is with the PC card or the battery holder.
Now I am totally mystified. I tried swapping the PC card from the fob that does not work with the PC card from the fob that does work. Both PC cards work, but only with one bottom case/battery holder. Great news, I thought. Both PC cards work, and it should be easy to figure out what is wrong with the problematic bottom case and battery holder. However, I have not been able to figure it out. Both bottom cases/battery holders appear to be identical. I get good voltage readouts on both battery holders. I tried bending the contact prongs up a little bit to ensure a good contact, but that made no difference. The tops and bottoms of both fobs snap together the same way. It seems that with the problematic bottom case I am not getting power to the PC card, but I can't see why not.
Cracked plastic? Hairline crack may not be visible until put under pressure. Housing not snapping closed tight enough?
Problem Solved!!! However, the solution is almost unbelievable. To recap, I had one working and one non-working fob. Both fobs are original and used to work. The fobs have a PC card with the electronics and a lower case with a battery holder. To narrow down the problem, I tried swapping the PC cards. Both PC cards worked with one of the bottom cases, so the problem had to be with the other bottom case and/or battery holder. However, I could not find the problem. The bottom cases and battery holders look identical. I got good voltage readings from both. The battery voltage in the non-working fob was over 3 volts, but I replaced the battery anyway, and that made no difference. I tried bending the contact prongs to get a better connection and tried again and again. It finally occurred to me that the one thing I had not tried was swapping the battery from the working fob with the batteries from the non-working fob, to test the extraordinarily unlikely hypothesis that there was something wrong with the other two batteries, even though they tested good and one was brand new. I recalled what Sherlock Holmes reportedly said, i.e., that when all other possibilities have been eliminated, the one that remains, however improbable, must be true. Well, guess what. Both PC cards worked with both bottom cases if I used the good battery. There is something wrong with the other two batteries, but I have no idea what. They test good and look identical. I just bought some new batteries, and they also work. So, I still have a mystery, but I have a mystery and two working fobs.
I tested them both ways. I was getting good voltages with the batteries installed. I cannot explain why they did not work despite having good voltages, but they didn't. The two batteries that did not work were the same brand and identical to the one that did work, so it cannot be that they were too thin or thick. I can imagine one bad battery testing good but being bad, but two? I am mystified, but I have two working fobs.