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lowering c-14
- Thread starter Trucker
- Start date
http://projektd.com/index.php?cPath=27_39 http://www.muzzys.com/concours14/concours14_links/index.html Sorry I forgot to do this yesterday. ---------------------------------- South Central Area Director Email scad@cog-online.org
<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br
[rant] I just checked Muzzy's for a set of muffs for my FJR1300. Cheapest is $650 for carbon fiber slip-ons (nothing more). Just for kicks I checked Ebay for a muffler for my '04 Acura TL and saw a complete system from the crossover pipe back to the tail pipe, including the Cat - described as in perfect condition - for a Buy It Now price of $199.00 I like a nice mellow sound on my bike but I can't even come close to justifying paying prices these aftermarket guys get for their stuff. I mean, you have to have money to burn to even halfway explain $650 to the little lady so you can have your bike sound good. Which brings up a point. Have any of these clowns ever thought about the benefits of volume business? [/rant] Bob "Flylooper" Burns COG #5887 E Clampus Vitus, YB#1 '04 FJR 1300
ronnielyons
Bicycle
Hey Trucker, throw on a set of Muzzy lowering links and push the front forks up in the clamps 1 inch. Makes a big difference for less than $100.00.
ronnielyons
Bicycle
You're asking about lowering the C14 ? This is the response I posted on the other forum.
Author asks:
1) Are you leg-length challenged? What is your true/anatomical inseam (see above to compute it)?
My response: 5-7 and 30" inseam. I'd say that qualifies me.
2) How did you address your height issues? What are your reasons?
Muzzy links and pushed the forks up one inch in the triple clamps. Why? Safety is the main reason. I can't tell you how many times I've nearly fallen trying to back the bike up and my toe tips skip out on sand, etc. I also just "feel" more secure why I can flat foot a machine.
3) Did you use the Muzzy lowering links? What is the exact drop of the rear? Did you use some other links or method?
Yes, Muzzy because I wanted a commercially available link and this is the only one I could find. Not sure of the exact amount of drop, didn't measure ride height pre and post install. Feels like a couple of inches though.
4) How much have you ever lowered the front? In what way? How far did you ultimately lower? How did it affect your handling with various drops?
Pushed the forks up exactly one inch. Remove front wheel and fender, loosened the bolts on both triple clamps just enough the forks would swivel in the clamps, push them up and evenly and measure exactly one inch above the top triple clamp using a micrometer. Not sure how much it lowered the front but it seems like it evened it out with the back. Doesn't seem like it affected the handling one bit.
5) If you lowered, how did you address the kickstand? Did you do anything with the center stand?
Cut about 1.5 inches off the kickstand and added a round plate to it when I welded it all back together.
6) Have you had any "bottoming out" problems if you lowered? Have you had any problems with road disturbances (speed bumps, dips, etc)?
None. Yes, I was really worried the first time I hit the brakes hard but no contact with the fender and the bottom of the fairing. No problems with road disturbances.
7) What suspension settings are you using (dial settings)? Why? What did you learn?
I haven't adjusted the factory setting at all, haven't had the need.
8 ) Have you ever had a low or no-speed drop of the bike that could have been prevented if it was lower?
Not this one but yes I have dropped bikes because they were too tall.
9) Have you fixed your issues? Are you happy? Are you safe? Any other advice?
Yes, but if I could lower it any more I would take another inch off just for personal satisfaction, but can't. Yes, I'm happy with the results. Safe, I don't see why it's not as safe as a factory bike? Some will say pushing the forks up in the clamps alters the factory geometry but I'm not a good enough ricky-racer to tell the difference. Only other thing I could tell you is, if you drop both ends and it still isn't enough, you can have your seat cut down a little and build the soles up on your boots for another 1/2 to 1 inch. All told, it's worth the $100 for links and the time to do it.
Author asks:
1) Are you leg-length challenged? What is your true/anatomical inseam (see above to compute it)?
My response: 5-7 and 30" inseam. I'd say that qualifies me.
2) How did you address your height issues? What are your reasons?
Muzzy links and pushed the forks up one inch in the triple clamps. Why? Safety is the main reason. I can't tell you how many times I've nearly fallen trying to back the bike up and my toe tips skip out on sand, etc. I also just "feel" more secure why I can flat foot a machine.
3) Did you use the Muzzy lowering links? What is the exact drop of the rear? Did you use some other links or method?
Yes, Muzzy because I wanted a commercially available link and this is the only one I could find. Not sure of the exact amount of drop, didn't measure ride height pre and post install. Feels like a couple of inches though.
4) How much have you ever lowered the front? In what way? How far did you ultimately lower? How did it affect your handling with various drops?
Pushed the forks up exactly one inch. Remove front wheel and fender, loosened the bolts on both triple clamps just enough the forks would swivel in the clamps, push them up and evenly and measure exactly one inch above the top triple clamp using a micrometer. Not sure how much it lowered the front but it seems like it evened it out with the back. Doesn't seem like it affected the handling one bit.
5) If you lowered, how did you address the kickstand? Did you do anything with the center stand?
Cut about 1.5 inches off the kickstand and added a round plate to it when I welded it all back together.
6) Have you had any "bottoming out" problems if you lowered? Have you had any problems with road disturbances (speed bumps, dips, etc)?
None. Yes, I was really worried the first time I hit the brakes hard but no contact with the fender and the bottom of the fairing. No problems with road disturbances.
7) What suspension settings are you using (dial settings)? Why? What did you learn?
I haven't adjusted the factory setting at all, haven't had the need.
8 ) Have you ever had a low or no-speed drop of the bike that could have been prevented if it was lower?
Not this one but yes I have dropped bikes because they were too tall.
9) Have you fixed your issues? Are you happy? Are you safe? Any other advice?
Yes, but if I could lower it any more I would take another inch off just for personal satisfaction, but can't. Yes, I'm happy with the results. Safe, I don't see why it's not as safe as a factory bike? Some will say pushing the forks up in the clamps alters the factory geometry but I'm not a good enough ricky-racer to tell the difference. Only other thing I could tell you is, if you drop both ends and it still isn't enough, you can have your seat cut down a little and build the soles up on your boots for another 1/2 to 1 inch. All told, it's worth the $100 for links and the time to do it.
I just purchased a 2011 C14 and am looking to put lowering links on it. Has anybody ever used anything besides Muzzy? Soupy's has adjustable links that can drop up to 4 inches. It is a turnbuckle style. Also has anybody used the Muzzy handlebar risers or Helli risers? Any thoughts on either?
Thanks!
Thanks!
ronnielyons
Bicycle
Use Muzzy's links and push the forks up one inch in the triple clamp. Good to go.
Kimo said:
you cannot drop the suspension that much.(4")...doing so WILL result in accelerated driveline wear/failure, it was never designed for that.
if you drop the rear, 1"-1 1/2" is about all you can do safely, without changing the Tetra-link geometry radically from it's design parameters. If you are going to attempt this, the Muzzy product is the safer of the 2 options, given options.
Also note that Muzzy states not to be used carrying passengers, or heavy loading (or they used to when they first appeared).
Those links originally were the exact same ones they released for the Z14, without consideration for the Concours' differences in geometry and weighting. They simply started saying they could be used for both bikes, they never engineered those links specific to the needs of the Concours. they have since created multi hole versions for the Z14, and left the original version noted as C14 specific.
You would not know this if you had not followed the progression of their product literature since the c14 came out, and see the difference now in their webpages...
and to toss this one up to you as to their CREDIBILITY, they still have not corrected their photos (after 4 years) for other products they are hawking, with regards to stupidly advertised "familiarity" with the bike they are selling parts for...this picture tells a lot about them: :-[ :
:-Xhttp://www.muzzys.com/concours14/concours_14_fender_elim/index.html
what's wrong with that photo?
)
:rotflmao:mike said:
funny thing is, I have sent no less than 8 e-mails to them since they placed it on the site, telling them to correct the situation...they just don't get the hint... :-[ :-[
I would never buy something from them for this simple reason.
maybe they should sell "bag retainers"...cause I think they may need them :rotflmao: :rotflmao: