• Do you want to post in the COG forum? Join the club (free limited trial membership available) or upgrade/renew your membership to enjoy full posting privileges.
    For simple instructions, click here
  • Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Lowering

croach1776

Member
Member
I am contemplating installing or having a lowering kit installed to resolve the only major issue that prevents the Connie from being the near
perfect ride. When moving it from garage to driveway in prep for a ride only me forefoot touches the ground. So would appreciate suggestions
for best lowering kit plus I realize that side stand and center stand will need some re-fabrication to work with lowered Connie. Thanks
 

ONOBob

Member
Member
Same here. My 29" inseam makes maneuvering this thing around on foot a bit of a challenge.
I've read on here you can lower the front end up to 1" without major impact to handling.
1. Since I have the 1" risers to accommodate my handle bar adaptors I thought I would start there.
2. I am replacing my center stand, because the one I have is bent / the foot lever is missing / makes it hard to use.
This is turning out to be a bit more work than I thought, as it appears I have to loose the 1-2 header and exhaust
to get the kick stand sensor out of the way BDFORE I can get to the left side center stand bolt.
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
The best lowering for a C-10 is with a Norm Soucy Lowering Rocker.
His address/phone number is; sanleonster@gmail.com phone# (281) 339-1156
It's been years since I talked with him, so give him a call to see if he still makes them.
It's very EZ to install and available is whatever drop you want. I suggest you use the least amount of drop you can.

NOTE: Once the bike is lowered, it will be almost impossible to get the bike on the center stand. If you want to use it, the legs will need to be shortened. same with the side stand. But heating it and bending it outwards a bit is a simple solution.

1 thought; A ZZR -1200 Shock is supposed to be a replacement for the OEM Shock.
I used a C-1400 shock on mine (which is longer) and also had to add the lowering rocker.
The ZZR is shorter and does not require a rocker.
I understand that It lowers the rear of the bike a bit. {Not sure how much}
Might be worth trying that, as it's relatively inexpensive, {will lower the bike a bit} and also give you better suspension control.
02-05 ZZR1200 REAR BACK SHOCK SPRING COIL ABSORBER SUSPENSION | eBay

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:

santacruzrider

Member
Member
Not to sidetrack your request, but if as you say, the "only major issue" is walking the bike from garage to driveway, why not just stay off the bike and walk it into place?

That's what I've always done. I either ride it or or I walk it (butt not on seat), but I try hard not to mix the two because it's all too easy to grab that front brake and then you're snapping pegs (at least that's what I've HEARD). :eek:
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Ya I think I found a good use for that stimulus check. I will look into lowering the front once I
decide best kit for lowering the rear. I read that some use a 2x8 to place the front wheel on
when in the garage to make raising on the center stand easier. Probably taking out a section of the CS equal to
the amount rear is lowered would be permanent fix. I think taking out a section would allow the lower section to
fit into the upper section for a better and stronger fit and fix plus a good weld job.
 

oldsmoboat

Street Cruiser
Forum Subscriber
What Norm says about the stands: " heat up the side stand with a torch and bend it out just a little...
as far as center stand , start cutting legs off about 1" - 1.5" and weld a new foot on it
you want the rear tire to be off ground about 1/2" makes it easier to get up
."

I used his method for the side stand.

I purchased a center stand off of Ebay with the intention of having it cut down and feet welded on. The shop had it for about 2 months and never got around to cutting it down. I picked it back up.

I ride up on a paver under the rear wheel to get it on the stand. But, if I have my boots on and I am feeling frisky, I can get it on the stand without the paver.
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Ya thats the only ones I have found. Someone mentioned lowering the front. Will that involve
installing different springs in the front forks.

Have a safe holiday
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
No. To lower the front, you just loosen the pinch bolts on the Tripple Trees and rise the fork tubes a bit.

On the rear, I opted for the Lowering Rocker over the Links. Very EZ to install.
If you later opt for a better shock, will work fine.

Ride safe, Ted
 

croach1776

Member
Member
No. To lower the front, you just loosen the pinch bolts on the Tripple Trees and rise the fork tubes a bit.

On the rear, I opted for the Lowering Rocker over the Links. Very EZ to install.
If you later opt for a better shock, will work fine.

Ride safe, Ted
Havent heard of the Lowering Rocker is that a hack or a kit. Thanks
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Not to sidetrack your request, but if as you say, the "only major issue" is walking the bike from garage to driveway, why not just stay off the bike and walk it into place?

That's what I've always done. I either ride it or or I walk it (butt not on seat), but I try hard not to mix the two because it's all too easy to grab that front brake and then you're snapping pegs (at least that's what I've HEARD). :eek:
Should have said walking bike anywhere.
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Should have said walking bike anywhere.
But to me walking it while on it still preferable to being on one side and walking it as it can still get away from you and then you
only have your upper body to keep it upright if it falls away from you.
 

santacruzrider

Member
Member
But to me walking it while on it still preferable to being on one side and walking it as it can still get away from you and then you
only have your upper body to keep it upright if it falls away from you.
I 've personally always found I had much more leverage standing next to a tall bike and with both feet flat on the ground, rather and being in the saddle and on my toes. No doubt though that you have be paying attention to the balance. But standing to one side I can lean the C10 into my hip and take alot of lean towards me. The bias is always toward my body and the balance only goes neutral when I'm kicking the sidestand down.

Good luck with your lowering project.
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Are those for C10 also?
The Norm Soucy Lowering Rockers are only for use on a C-10.

In the image I linked {Post #3}, a C-14 shock had been installed on a C-10. {the shock and link were being sold}
I explained that the C-14 shock is longer than a C-10 shock and the bike needs a lowering rocker added to reduce the height at the rear of the bike. But a ZZR-1200 shock is the correct length {or slightly shorter than stock} and a lowering rocker is not needed.


Ride safe, Ted
 
Top