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Maintenance and the new owner

Steve in Sunny Fla said:
ajsfirehawk said:
I've just always asked 'why?'.

 
Click to expand...

  I'm glad you wrote that. I've just always asked "why" too, and it's p*ssed people off ever since I was a little kid. Never meant to, often it was seen as being disobedient or argumentative. At this point I try to preface my questions so that folks understand I'm trying to learn, not just be a contentious, difficult  p. i. t. a.  ;) ;) ;) Steve
Click to expand...

Feelin' your pain guys.  Knowing how to fix something was never enough.  I wanted to know how it worked, why it broke, and
what the fix is doing to make it right.  People think I'm crazy because I have no fear when it comes to tearing something apart
to see why it isn't working, and if I can fix it...  It's a behavioral disorder.  :)
 
+1 to both SIFS and McFly's comments.  if you don't hack off your mentor, you end up in a better place.  Going through and adjustment sequence may fix something and make it run.  Clean lube and adjust fixed 85% of the stuff I run into.  It is what happens when that doesn't work.  If you know why you are doing each adjustment, it helps you do PD/PSI and get to root cause when the cookbook doesn't work.  Onward through the fog.
 
Thanks, Steve.
Just purchased a great used 2004 Connie and will do just as you say here. I hope you still do the carb mods, etc.... Love the youTube vids, btw.
Take care,
Don
 
@group and @Steve, could I get some good tire and fluid recommendations (or point me to posts) for my "new to me" 2004 Connie?  Tire's look good, but a few years old, so what do I know? Noob rider, here. Thanks!
 
SteveJ. said:
Dricardo1 said:
@group and @Steve, could I get some good tire and fluid recommendations (or point me to posts) for my "new to me" 2004 Connie?  Tire's look good, but a few years old, so what do I know? Noob rider, here. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Tires:

http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=25607.0;topicseen

Oil:

http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?board=3.0

Brake/clutch fluid DOT4

Coolant: silicate free anti freeze with a touch of Water wetter.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!
 
sorry probably the wrong section,,,but having problems with throttle control housing,,  problem in that its cracked and broken on the bottom where throttle cables go in,, also cable with adjuster the plastic L is broken,,,any ideas? other than throwing money at it,,,,thanks
 
If a new Concourse 10 owner is intimidated by the advise given here I think it is really a good thing. A rider that thinks you can buy a used 10 to 20+ year old bike and thinks it is turn key needs a little reality check. That's why this site and people like Steve really promote riding and necessary new owner/used bike maintenance. Just a few basic can ensure a quick reliable bike and riding experience. Another reason this might be the best motorcycle forum.
 
:iagree: 

Having bought into an '06 a few years ago, I've spent more than I'd ever would have thought.  I'll admit a lot of $$$ was
making the bike 'better' for me, but a low mileage C-10 will require an 'investment' to get it up to spec, in time, labor and money.
Cutting corners on maintenance is NOT an option...  It's money/time well spent, that eventually pays in dividends in the long haul.
 
Now THIS is Funny, Steve.. As in Funny/Odd. I really thought I had a deal on a North Dakota Concours. A DONE deal. Wrong!! It was a Cockamamie Deal gone way wrong. I even bragged here what a nice deal that bike was gonna be with some TLC. BUT... I didn't lose a dime. I figure, "Maybe sumpthin' better will come along. Maybe.
Today I'm packing for Europe n Russia and my DREAM ZG1000 hits Craig's List. A COG'ers Bike. Bam. 19,000 miles, overflow tubes by STEVE, bars risers, Rifle windshield, backrest etc. BUT I GOTTA BUY IT 'Sight Unseen'....cuz I'm hoppin' on a plane...like NOW !! (But if the Tubes were dun by STEVE...I'm buyin' it.) The check is in the Mail.  Locomotiveman Tom from Minnesota.
 
Locomotiveman said:
Now THIS is Funny, Steve.. As in Funny/Odd. I really thought I had a deal on a North Dakota Concours. A DONE deal. Wrong!! It was a Cockamamie Deal gone way wrong. I even bragged here what a nice deal that bike was gonna be with some TLC. BUT... I didn't lose a dime. I figure, "Maybe sumpthin' better will come along. Maybe.
Today I'm packing for Europe n Russia and my DREAM ZG1000 hits Craig's List. A COG'ers Bike. Bam. 19,000 miles, overflow tubes by STEVE, bars risers, Rifle windshield, backrest etc. BUT I GOTTA BUY IT 'Sight Unseen'....cuz I'm hoppin' on a plane...like NOW !! (But if the Tubes were dun by STEVE...I'm buyin' it.) The check is in the Mail.  Locomotiveman Tom from Minnesota.
Click to expand...

I am sure you will be very happy with it.
Yep, SISF carb work with overflow tubes (of course) complete kits, 2 minute jet mod, exhaust sprocket, new unmounted front tire, etc.
I must say, it is/was/will be the strangest transaction I've ever been contacted
Going to miss the 2005 C10, but it stays here for my viewing pleasure (next to the ST1300) until Tom gets back from Europe. Sort of a leap of faith on both our parts, but it is minnesota ya know..
 
jettawreck said:
Locomotiveman said:
Now THIS is Funny, Steve.. As in Funny/Odd. I really thought I had a deal on a North Dakota Concours. A DONE deal. Wrong!! It was a Cockamamie Deal gone way wrong. I even bragged here what a nice deal that bike was gonna be with some TLC. BUT... I didn't lose a dime. I figure, "Maybe sumpthin' better will come along. Maybe.
Today I'm packing for Europe n Russia and my DREAM ZG1000 hits Craig's List. A COG'ers Bike. Bam. 19,000 miles, overflow tubes by STEVE, bars risers, Rifle windshield, backrest etc. BUT I GOTTA BUY IT 'Sight Unseen'....cuz I'm hoppin' on a plane...like NOW !! (But if the Tubes were dun by STEVE...I'm buyin' it.) The check is in the Mail.  Locomotiveman Tom from Minnesota.
Click to expand...

I am sure you will be very happy with it.
Yep, SISF carb work with overflow tubes (of course) complete kits, 2 minute jet mod, exhaust sprocket, new unmounted front tire, etc.
I must say, it is/was/will be the strangest transaction I've ever been contacted
Going to miss the 2005 C10, but it stays here for my viewing pleasure (next to the ST1300) until Tom gets back from Europe. Sort of a leap of faith on both our parts, but it is minnesota ya know..
Click to expand...

  SEE! Fairy tales do come true. :) :)
 
I bought a Blue 01 ZG1000 on April first of this year, it had 12,207 miles on the odometer.  I was worried that it could have 112,207 because the final drive is making noise, a slight hummmm...  I tore into it to adjust the valves, replace the plugs, change oil and filter plus final drive lube (I never believe previous owners) and resync the carbs.  It still had the factory pant on the valve lash adjusters, they needed adjusting but were not way off from specs.  So I do believe the 12,207 miles figure and concluded the final drive lube had never been changed.  It's the big ring gear bearing making the noise, not sure I can replace just that bearing.... Now has 17,105 and it was on my lift for a total of 4 weeks.....

I paid $2,000 for it but have put another $1,500 into getting it where it fits me better.

I also have a 1984 ZX750-E1 GPZ Turbo that I bought wrecked with 395 miles July 22, 1984.  I got the C10 so I would stop putting so many miles on the Turbo bike....
 
I have a 2001 game 1000 concourse it runs good at the low-end speeds but I can't get like beyond 80 miles an hour it has no power on the highway I have the aftermarket carburetor kit with the sponges that controls the air I wonder is that getting enough fuel or not getting enough air  any help out there
 
First; {to help you} we need more information.
ie; Is it just lacking power, or is it missing at higher speeds?

Second; The carb kit your indicating, is Steve's 2 Min Jett Kit.
  {He's a bit busy right now recovering from a Hurricane}.
Installed properly the kit should increase power.
Installed incorrectly, it's possible it could hurt. {but I suspect the kit is not your problem}

If installed properly, the foam should "partially" block part of "one" of the intake ports "into" the airbox.
We've heard of some folks installing the foam in the wrong places....
Where is your foam located?

NOTE: The simplest way to determine if the foam is the problem is,, simply remove the foam...
          If removing the foam changes anything, get back with us/Steve and we can give more info.

Ride safe, Ted



 
It's installed on the right side of the airbox and there's it's not missing or backfiring it just seems to not have the power around 4000 RPM In six gear
 
OK I'm just learning how to use this post sorry everyone I have a 2000 1ZG 1000 concourse that doesn't have no power on the highway I have a two minute jet kit from's after market that you tune with sponges I have the sponges in the right side of the airbox I don't have Highway power  it seems to have low and power but starts to lose power up around 4000 RPMs especially in six year
 
Ok, that sounds correct.
Ensure that the entire port is not covered.

View Steve's procedure to do the airbox tune...

It's starting to sound like you may have had a hydrolock and bent a rod.
  {One slightly bent rod can run fine, but lack power because of decreased compression}

View Steve's procedure on measuring for a bent rod.

NOTE: The bike is not loosing power in sixth.
          It's not making sufficient power to rev to higher rpm's in that gear...

Ride safe, Ted
 
Thanks Ted I thought these new carburetors were ment to prevent Hydro lock could it be a to lean to rich scenario
 
The stand pipes in the carbs are supposed to prevent hydrolock.
I'm under the impression that you just got this machine?
If so, perhaps the prior owner had a hydrolock and installed the jett kit in an attempt to solve a problem?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yes it's possibility I'm wondering if maybe also my valves need to be adjusted and I'm I have loss of power that way  i'll do a Hydro lock test on it when I can see if the piston are all same height  should I not write it if it's got a bent rod
 
Riding it (if it has a slight bend) shouldn't be a problem.
If it were bent badly you would know it.

NOTE: I am not absolutely saying it has a bent rod.
          Could be other things.
          But, it should be checked.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hey there yes he got the parts from should've been engineering I did a Hydro lock test on the bike it's not Hydro lock to check the spark plugs out and measured each piston they're all equal  just have a lack of power it is backfiring after getting off the throttle  I change the oil I have new spark plugs I have the largest sponge of the three in the air intake on the right-hand side of the airbox I did notice some fuel leaking from the herb box where the filter goes in once it does look a lot
 
Rock said:
I have a 2001 game 1000 concourse it runs good at the low-end speeds but I can't get like beyond 80 miles an hour it has no power on the highway I have the aftermarket carburetor kit with the sponges that controls the air I wonder is that getting enough fuel or not getting enough air  any help out there
Click to expand...

Your problem seems simular to a problem my friend had on his 88 C10.  He said it seemed to run fine at low speeds and his idle was fine but it would not go over 80 to 85 mph on the highway.  This all started after he did a valve adjust so he knew it should have gone much faster than that.

I went over to help him check over the valve adjust he had done and long story short his problem turned out to be he had put his plug wires on numbered to the firing order instead of the cylinder numbers.  The #3 and #4 were swapped so he was only running on the #1 + #2.

Rock,  start your bike and let it warm up a little then check the header pipes with a laser temp gun or by spraying water on them to see if their all getting to around the same temp.

The wires on the left coil should go to the #1 plug (left most plug when sitting on the bike) and the #4 plug. (right most plug)  The wires on the right coil should go to the #2 and #3 plugs.  (two plugs in the middle)  The cylinders are numbered 1-4 going from left to right when sitting on the bike.
 
I did notice some fuel leaking from the herb box where the filter goes in once it does look a lot

Can you explain this sentence?
If you have fuel leaking into the air box, you have carb problems.

One thing we haven't thought of is insufficient fuel.
If your lacking power at higher rpm's or under load, it's possible the fuel line is kinked and your not getting enough fuel.
Sometimes the kinked fuel hose if fine until the engine heats things up.
It doesn't cause problems until the engine heat softens the hose and allows it to bend a bit more.
Check your fuel line...

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hi guys I'm new to this group I just got my Concours 1000 2 weeks ago and I'm loving it I just have a quick question about the cam chain tensioner mine is making a small rattling noise when idling is there a way I can adjust the original one or I just have to buy a new one I don't want to get the manual one I was reading something about taking the middle school out and type in it in the center will the screw goes with a small screwdriver and then reinstalling the spring and the pin again
 
You have the idea right.
If your bike makes the noise primarily at idle until it warms up,,, it may help.
How many miles on the bike?

Carefully remove the top screw.
  (Be careful when you do as a spring and small pin will jump out).
Put a flat ended punch or screwdriver in the hole.
It will rest against the adjuster when inserted.
Give the punch a sharp tap. (Don't bash the hell out of it).
If there is sufficient chain slack the adjuster will move to the next step and quieten the motor.
Re-install pin/spring top bolt, and see if it helped.

NOTE: All Connies have a certain amount of chain noise, I suggest you compare with others.

I suggest; join the club and come ride with us.
                Then you'll have lots of Connies to compare with and I guarantee you'll like the group!

Ride safe, Ted
         



 
Well Steve and his YouTube videos is what brought me to COG . Ihave to say sounds like solid advice, bikes do fall over the plastics on mine are proof  :))
 
ok , I just rejoined and cannot find my topic so thought general topic forum might be the place to ask.  So my bike has been in the garage and not ridden in four years. Now retired, it is time. But reading all the hydrolock issues I get the fear of it.  What I do not see, cannot find, is an article on. Once a bike is coming out of storage, what is the procedure. I would guess, replace all liquids etc. But the main question is now that I am worried about hydrolock, I assume as long as there is no gas in the tank there shouldn't be a problem ? Do I , should I,  pull the carbs, should I pull the spark plugs and squirt a few drops of oil into cylinders.  I think I am over thinking this. but there must be an understood list of steps.

thanks
 
Kurt.  Change the oil. If the bike was stored with fuel stabilizer, dumping all the old fuel and adding a gallon of new and attempting to start would be what I would do. At some point I would replace the petcock as well. If not, the carbs need to be pulled to check for green goo.
 
Question on a new to me '93 zg1000 with bar risers.....is there only one air filling tube and the second one a "dummy" on front forks? I can only put air/check pressure on one side & the other side seems like a dummy...can't  check pressure or even fill.
Thanks for help
 
Yes, air fill/check only on the right fork - there's a balancer tube down just above the lower triple clamp that balances air between the left and right fork.
 
Bostonclassics said:
Hi Steve, Is getting a fuel petcock with an 'OFF' position the best way to avoid Hydrolock?
thanks,
Roy
Click to expand...

A different Steve here, but no. It can take but a brief moment to have gas leak into the engine from forgeting or not bothering to switch off the petcock. The overflow tubes are the best way to avoid a hydrolock. Self install not recommended, BTDT.
 
SteveJ. said:
Bostonclassics said:
Hi Steve, Is getting a fuel petcock with an 'OFF' position the best way to avoid Hydrolock?
thanks,
Roy
Click to expand...

A different Steve here, but no. It can take but a brief moment to have gas leak into the engine from forgeting or not bothering to switch off the petcock. The overflow tubes are the best way to avoid a hydrolock. Self install not recommended, BTDT.
Click to expand...

I went into my garage after not running the bike for a couple of weeks.  Turning the petcock to prime,
is the same as turning a manual petcock on.  Within several seconds gas was pouring out of the overflow tubes.
If the needle valve is stuck, a manual petcock is not a 100% cure.  You can manually fill that cylinder up and
you may never know.
 
Hello, New owner here. Can someone tell me what the small hose coming out of the fuel shutoff valve does? I pulled the tank off to access the spark plugs and after the plugs checked out okay I reinstalled the tank. I noticed the small hose is old and slid too easily back on. Too easily it seems because I didn't notice when it slid back off. Of course the bike would not start after that. This morning I reinspected everything I did yesterday and noticed the loose hose. That little devil sure caused me a panic attack. It started right up after that. What does the little hose do?
 
Treadlightly said:
Hello, New owner here. Can someone tell me what the small hose coming out of the fuel shutoff valve does? I pulled the tank off to access the spark plugs and after the plugs checked out okay I reinstalled the tank. I noticed the small hose is old and slid too easily back on. Too easily it seems because I didn't notice when it slid back off. Of course the bike would not start after that. This morning I reinspected everything I did yesterday and noticed the loose hose. That little devil sure caused me a panic attack. It started right up after that. What does the little hose do?
Click to expand...

it's the vacuum source to activate the petcock. no vacuum, no flow, except in prime.

Steve
 
Wow the Connie Guru himself!!! Thanks Steve.. First time Kawasaki owner, previous were Honda's and a BMW.. I ran into an unbelievable deal on Craigslist. I got 2 1986 models, one with 7000 miles one with 75,000 miles. The 7000 mile bike is running like a beast and inspected until next May. The other bike donated some parts for the one I'm riding.
 
Newbie here again, guess I didn't do things in the right order, if this is a duplicate sorry. '01 Concours sat for 3 years, downloaded a spreadsheet, thank you, intend on doing everything. Question, what tool do you all recommend to balance carbs?
 
Bobdog76 said:
Newbie here again, guess I didn't do things in the right order, if this is a duplicate sorry. '01 Concours sat for 3 years, downloaded a spreadsheet, thank you, intend on doing everything. Question, what tool do you all recommend to balance carbs?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the COG forum Bob!  Lots of knowledge here!  Please consider joining as a paying member.  Paying members get a book full of folks that will help you if you have problems on the road.  Cost of membership is worth it just for that reason alone.

As for which balancing tool, it depends on who you ask.  MOB is a big fan of the twin max.
https://www.amazon.com/TMX-A005-Twinmax/dp/B004K5MH5M/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHoEddZAXg2mqwPkly9S_rrPxBfLfQHSIZpQb0oNI7buIK5PzGeGYoaAk8vEALw_wcB&hvadid=174241471414&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9016643&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10349132449822280837&hvtargid=kwd-1788483221&hydadcr=26612_9479196&keywords=twinmax&qid=1569406255&sr=8-1

Others have mentioned the morgan carbtune.
https://www.carbtune.com/

Pick your poison! :)
 
Now that’s it’s hard to find sg/sh oil, standard oils are SN- and a lot of synthetics or synthetic blends. Old school was don’t use synthetic in the connie (98, 30k miles), but there are bike specific synthetic/blends.
Time for the pre-season oil change so appreciate the thoughts.
 
Bobdog76 said:
Newbie here again, guess I didn't do things in the right order, if this is a duplicate sorry. '01 Concours sat for 3 years, downloaded a spreadsheet, thank you, intend on doing everything. Question, what tool do you all recommend to balance carbs?
Click to expand...

What spreadsheet is this? Is there a nice checklist or spreadsheet that someone has put together already for restoring a sitting Concours? I'm a project manager type and I've been working on my own spreadsheet but I know I have gaps and I need to figure out the best order for each task.
 
crash said:
Now that’s it’s hard to find sg/sh oil, standard oils are SN- and a lot of synthetics or synthetic blends. Old school was don’t use synthetic in the connie (98, 30k miles), but there are bike specific synthetic/blends.
Time for the pre-season oil change so appreciate the thoughts.
Click to expand...

OMG!!!  :-\      It's time for the Oil Tread!!!  :whoo: :c002: :wee_hee:

Crash, I'm just picking on you.
We've discuss oil in the Connie for years.
The simple truth is almost any oil will be fine.

NOTE: I've used Rotella T for years.
              Plain old dino oil/or semi-synthetic/or synthetic...
                      "All worked fine"

You'll now see 20 or so differing opinions...  :great:

  {Let the flames begin}

Ride safe, Ted
 
ColoradoMike said:
What spreadsheet is this? Is there a nice checklist or spreadsheet that someone has put together already for restoring a sitting Concours? I'm a project manager type and I've been working on my own spreadsheet but I know I have gaps and I need to figure out the best order for each task.
Click to expand...

When you become a full member, you gain access to Tech pages and archive copies of the monthly.

Very much worth the small price for admission. I saved a lot of time and money by working through the tech pages and archives.

DS
 
ColoradoMike said:
What spreadsheet is this? Is there a nice checklist or spreadsheet that someone has put together already for restoring a sitting Concours? I'm a project manager type and I've been working on my own spreadsheet but I know I have gaps and I need to figure out the best order for each task.
Click to expand...

Found it!!!

I thought it was in the Members only part, but I was wrong.

Here you go.

http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-c10-zg1000-general-chat-and-tech/c10-excel-spreadsheet-maintenance-schedule/msg669854/#msg669854

DS
 
DSamudio said:
ColoradoMike said:
What spreadsheet is this? Is there a nice checklist or spreadsheet that someone has put together already for restoring a sitting Concours? I'm a project manager type and I've been working on my own spreadsheet but I know I have gaps and I need to figure out the best order for each task.
Click to expand...

Found it!!!

I thought it was in the Members only part, but I was wrong.

Here you go.

http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-c10-zg1000-general-chat-and-tech/c10-excel-spreadsheet-maintenance-schedule/msg669854/#msg669854

DS
Click to expand...

DUDE! YEEEEEEEEES!! Thanks for digging this up. This is the anal retentive maintenance structure I needed. This combined with the other input from the forum on non-standard stuff to check this bike should be humming in no time!

A thousand thanks.

Mike
 
I'm one of those guys who just purchased my first C10. It's a 2002, so 20 years old. I get it. The Connie is only my second bike.

My first bike was a 1982 Honda FT500, so 40 years old. (I'm coming up in the world.) Honda only made the single-lung FT500 for 2 years before they turned it into a v-twin. The single-lung FT500 has a very loyal following and had a very active Yahoo group similar to COG.

I was happy to stumble onto COG (Thanks Steve), but I have not found what I came here to find. In the FT500 group, there was a checklist something to the effect of "These are things you should check/change/service right away." "These are known issues with this bike and here's where to find the best info to fix them." "Here are some simple upgrades that will make your ride significantly better."

Does a document like that exist somewhere in this group and I just can't find it?

The Connie's got 21k and change on the odometer. I have no idea of the bike's service history. (I already sent the carbs to Steve's carb spa.) I figured I'd just make my way through the service manual's 18k service recommendations, but they're not all going to happen at once nor before I ride the bike. I was hoping for some guidance on where I should start.

Thanks.

Dan
 
Well, you're in the right place - start at the beginning of this thread. Also, since you are a member you have access to the tech pages which are loaded with info. Not sure there is any one document like you describe, but all the answers you seek are here somewhere.

For me and "new to me" used bikes, I won't ride them until I know the tires/brakes/lights and controls are in good condition and functional. I will also change the oil(s) and inspect fluids and give all nuts and bolts a once over inspection/tightening. Of course, if it does not run correctly you'll need to dope that out as well. You've got a great start having the Florida guys do your carbs - I had them do mine last fall and it was the best "upgrade" I've done to my bike in 8 years of ownership.

Congrats on the purchase - silver is the best (and fastest) color!

1651842375715.png
 
I found an old note that I sent to another member in 2004.

At about the time I sent the note I had sold my beloved 1986 {to an AH that destroyed my bike}, bought a 2003, and started tinkerin' all over again.

Thought y'all might enjoy the old note {??} and I think it might help the new guys on "their project bike".

Ride safe, Ted

Hi Billy Bob, here is an old (incomplete) list of my Tinkerin'..

Before we continue. I have to tell you this... I worked hard on "Traveler".
This is my story. "A Poor Mans Connie".....

I bought my bike as a "project bike".
It was in pretty sad shape. After some repairs to get it running again, I did a few improvements...
Here is the list!! Now you'll "KNOW" where my money has gone!!!
"Brace yourself"!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8-D
Are ya ready? :cool:
Here we go!!! :^>
Almost there!!!! 8-O

"The List"
1. Replaced front rotors, and all brake pads.
2. Replaced front and rear tires. (Dunlop 491's)
3. Replaced windshield. (Tinted Targa)
4. Replaced grips. (Gel grips / Murph)
5. Replaced horns, added relay. (from a used Fiat car/UNBELIEVABLY LOUD)
6. Added Fenda Extenda.
7. Added Switch/relay system to cooling fan. (Mod by Ted)
8. Added CB radio and antenna. (Now changed to FRS radio). (Mod by Ted)
9. Replaced mufflers. (Cobra F1s)
10.Removed exhaust system, polished and relieved header pipe inlets. (Mod by Ted)
11.Ground exhaust ports and matched to header inlets. (Mod by Ted)
12.Wrapped headers with heat tape. (Kerker)
13.Added Corbin seat and backrest. (bought used on internet)
14.Added stronger cargo rack. (Built by Ted)
15.Sanded and painted bike with two tone Toreador Red paint. (Painted by Ted)
16.Added front and rear side running lights. (Lockhart Phillips)
17.Added K&N filter, and Modified air box. (Mod by Ted)
18.Added throttle lock. (Vista Cruise)
19.Modified rear turn indicators to running/turn lights. (Mod by Ted)
20.Modified taillight to semi flash with turn indicators. (Mod by Ted)
21.Modified head light to now have 3 beams, low beam, high-beam, and {both} high & low beam. (Mod by Ted)
22.Added Murph's SS bolts to bike. (Murphy)
23.Bobbed rear fender and raised license plate assembly. (Mod by Ted)
24.Added Street Pilot and Radar detector. (Garmin and Whistler)
24a. Built special GPS Mount. (Built by Ted)
25.Rebuilt carbs and changed jetting. (Synced carbs) (Mod by Ted)
26.Replaced Clutch master cylinder and modified clutch springs. (Mod by Ted)
27.Added magnetic tank bag. (Sharp)
28.Modified front forks and added stiffer spring set-up. (Mod by Ted)
29.Replaced clutch and brake levers with newer adjustable style. (from a 98 Connie)
30.Krouser Trunk. (bought very used) (Repainted and repaired by Ted)
31.Built FRS/CB Radio harness and helmet system. (Built by Ted)
32.Added SS Brake and Clutch Lines (Built by Ted)
33.Some I've forgotten...(Forgotten by Ted)
34.Plus 5 years of normal maintenance. (Labor by Ted)
Whew.....

Understand why I'm broke, and tired??? 8-(
Man, am I having fun!!! 8oD
Ride safe, Ted
--

Ted Adcock, Houston, Tex COG# 4154
86' Connie "Traveler"
(The bike whispered the name, I swear it!!)
 
"Not a scratch anywhere, so it has not been crashed"
My first post here but thought I should comment on this statement.

New to me 1995 concours looked soooo good but after I dropped it I found the previously well repaired and painted breaks on the fairing inside . Kudos to the guys that did the original repairs cuz if they had reported the damage on their ICBC insurance the bike would've been written off and/or sold as a salvage vehicle. Lots of weight to learn to deal with now.

As a new owner I'm reading more hours than maintaining. But that's changing soon. I've ordered tools and have a game plan, thanks to all the connie owners and "Steve's", competent service peoples here.

I'm a veteran rider with many bikes over 58 yrs. lots of wrenching and have just fully repainted my 87 K75 beemer. The connie should require just one touchup, but still looking for the "95" maroon colour touchup. Nail polish would be nice for the small job I need touched up.

I'll learn this site much better so if this is in the wrong section admin people please move it.
Thanks
Wayne
 
It all glued back together okay so don't need any pieces but there's a connie rider nearby who needs a front section. I'll pass on your post to him.
 
Steve in sunny Fla said:
...and the old owner, too.

We're seeing a number of guys who have just purchased their first c-10. They come here all happy, particularly if it's a low mileage unit. Then they start getting advise from the seasoned owners. "You need to do a/b/c, oh yeah, while you're there, d/e /f are now easier to do. And while you're at it, replace g/h/i. You'll probably want to upgrade k/l/m and then enjoy the bike for a while" I can see this as intimidating and off-putting. let me explain why this is the advise given, and maybe it will ease the process.

Basically you've bought an old bike. The newest is 9 years old. In some respects, low mileage is worse than a higher mileage unit. The issues will always be centered around areas where there is fluid or rubber. A low mileage unit wasn't used much, so the owner probably felt fluid changes weren't necessary. Additionally, the fuel wasn't changed often, which is the perfect storm for tank and carb related issues. A higher mileage bike that's been well maintained may be cheaper in the long run, but we all like those low - mileage finds. Just don't lull yourself into thinking low mileage equals low maintenance, because it doesn't.

Do yourself a favor - and I do live by this- when you get your new to you motorcycle, the first thing you do is service all areas with fluid and / or rubber. Great looking old tires will get you killed. Replace them. Engines that run poorly due to ignition, valve or carb issues are an annoyance. Brakes that don't stop are deadly. Hydrolock is the only real achilles heal of the bike. Learn what is important to do right now, and what can wait. A new windshield or seat is way behind good brakes and tires in the scheme of things.

You might think you bought a motorcycle for cheap transportation. You're fooling yourself. The maintenance on a motorcycle is much more important, and requires much more diligence than owning a car. Maybe you've never thought of it this way, but here it is in a nutshell... cars don't fall down, motorcycles do. Low tire pressures on a car is manageable, on your bike it may cause you to crash. There are no second chances, no "re-do's" in an accident. Proper maintenance may be the difference in crashing or not. I'm sure in my case my choice to put premium tires on my bike is the only thing that kept me from hitting a mountain when I blew a curve in North Carolina.

Think about it. Motorcycling is a blast, but we all know it's not a "safe" endeavor. Making it less safe because you failed to be diligent in your maintenance, and choosing to ride an under maintained motorcycle is, well, stupid. This is why the advise is so encompassing. Be glad you're getting it, too. Coggers know this bike inside and out. The knowledge accrued about the zg1000 over the last 26 years is why you're here. Take the advise shared here to heart, and if you're wise, act on it. Do the maintenance, and enjoy the peace of mind.

Like I said, motorcycles fall down. Keep that in mind, and proceed accordingly. :motonoises:

HTH, Steve
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Well said. I definitely want all the advice I can get. I've waited 30 years to get another bike and I I want to learn as much as I can to, at least, make an informed decision whether I do the work myself or trust it to someone who already knows what they are doing! I thank you all!!
 
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