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Mobil 1 Question

jaxrider

jaxrider

Scooter
Costco has Mobil 1 on sale through Sunday, with a $10 off coupon for a 6 quart case. Is it better to run the 10w30 or the 5w whatever in the bike? thanks and note - this is not an oil war thread :) David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
Isn't anything below a 40W oil considered "energy conserving" and therefore contains friction modifiers that are considered detrimental to a wet clutch? I've run the Mobil 0W-40 in my 03 Concours for about 9000 miles so far with no detectable slipping and it shifts the best it ever has, especially when it's cold.
 
Thanks Zorlac - I've heard it's good stuff and I figure I'll give it a run. I usually use Rotella Dino and am thinking of going to either Rotella syn or Mobil 1. A friend with the same type of bike as I have (ZZR1200) ran 64k miles with no valve adjustment needed using Mobil 1. It seemed like a great endorsement. The bike sounds like it's new. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
Personally, I would never run a 5w-anything oil in a motorcycle. It is made from 5 weight base stock oil, and IN MY OPINION, that is too thin for the transmission. Mobil One makes a 15w-50 oil that is not energy conserving and is probably a better choice since it is made from 15 weight base stock oil instead of 5 weight.
 
15W50 in Texas maybe. It's too cold up here other than summer. I've used 15W50 and it made the bike real sluggish in the colder fall/spring weather. I just stay with the 4T 10W40. It works well in all my situations. cold up to 100 degrees. Although when it's a hundred. I probably won't be on the bike anyway. :p Bionic Bob COG & AMA member First C14 CDA member #0220 2008 C14 & 2003 Mean Streak
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10w 40 is fine, and I agree it may be better in colder climates. However, I would never put a 5w-anything in a bike where the oil also is used for the transmission.
 
Not to worry, they told me the Concours is bulletproof. :p It shifts the best it ever has with the 0-40W oil, rather than having to JAM it into second & third with 15-40W Rotella. It was almost unridable below 30 degrees.
 
I ran the Mobil 0-40W for the first 30,000 miles. I really did like the way it shifted when it was cold. The cams looked fine during valve adjusts that seems like the only thing that could be oil related. The only reason I switched was it was hard to find. I had a jeep diesel that used it also so it was worthwhile hunting it down. I sold the jeep so I switched to Amsoil 10-40 as the local NAPA carries that.
 
Hopefully you are talking about Mobil 1 for motorcycles as the automotive formulas have friction modifiers that will eventually cause clutch slippage. Rotella T does not have the friction modifier additive, and hence has been a good alternative (economical) oil to use in motorcycles with wet clutches. Not trying to start any oil wars :) Bob Sherwood COG #2994 COG Industry Liaison MSF RiderCoach Statesboro, GA
 
Before Mobil 1 decided to do a makeover on the bottles a lot of people used to put the "red cap" 15-50w synthetic oil. They still make a 15-50w synthetic oil; now it has a "gray cap." Mobil 1 also used to have a "green cap" 10-40w synthetic oil but I haven't seen that one in years.
 
Mobil 1 15w/50 is ok for bikes it does not carry the "E" conservation rating in the circle, unknown about 10/40 I've never seen it in Mobil1. Same would apply to Mobil 1 0/40 it also doesn't carry the e designator. All those with the e designator in the cicrle have an additive that will cause clurch slippage its considered an energy conserving additive don't remember if its phosphorous or potassium. I've used Mobil 1 in in bikes for years never had any clutch problems, you can also expect slightly better fuel mileage, easier shifting and generally longer oil change intervals, the synthetic don't break down like regular motor oil. I recommend a 5000 mile oil change interval but have gone 7500 if strictly touring. Be aware if you have any oil leaks prior to using a synthetic oil you'll really have one now, they run alot thinner. You don't have to buy the more expensive motorcycle oil, regular automotive Mobil 1 15w/50 works fine.









 
I've been using Mobile One 10-40W synthetic ever since my connie turned 5K miles.  I ride all year round in Kansas so I ride in temps well into the teens and up above 100 F.  So far I've had no troubles.  I have never tried running 5-40W or 5-50W because I think 10-40W is fine for the temperature range I usually ride in.  On cold days I always warm her up before I hit the road.  Maybe if I was further north I'd think about it using 5-40W....or using 10-50W if I was in the desert out west.  Just my opinion.
 
I just purchased a 92 connie with 101374 miles on it. The previous owners both used Mobile 1 15-50 synthetic and the bike hasn't had any problems.
I did a valve adjustment the second day I had her and the top end was as clean as a 10k bike. The bike shifts perfect, the bike is strong and solid and no to end buildup isln sight.
I know I wont be changing the oil I use.
 
RonaldLewis said:
You don't have to buy the more expensive motorcycle oil, regular automotive Mobil 1 15w/50 works fine.
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I hope you are kidding ... you can not run an auto oil in a wet clutch bike.
 
MKorn said:
RonaldLewis said:
You don't have to buy the more expensive motorcycle oil, regular automotive Mobil 1 15w/50 works fine.
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I hope you are kidding ... you can not run an auto oil in a wet clutch bike.
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They say that. But I ran normal Mobil1 in all my bikes for years and never had a clutch slip or any kind of motor/transmission problem ever with it. Makes wonder why I spend more for the 4T now?  :))
 
mkorn, you can use automotive oil in a wet clutch motorcycle.  many of us have been doing for decades.  the key is to look at the api label on the back of the bottle (circle with upper and lower rockers).  if one of the rockers says 'energy conserving' then you CANNOT use it as it contains friction modifiers that will cause problems with a wet clutch.  if the api label does not contain those words, then it IS safe for your bike.

paying for a jaso rated, motorcycle oil is a good way to waste alot of money.  personally, ive used shell rotella since the early 90's.  only until recently did it obtain a jaso rating on most of its oil types. ive even used walmart supertech brand once or twice in a pinch with no issues.

the ONLY time you would need a 4t type oil is if youre actually racing...which i, and most of us, dont do.
 
rsorrell2 said:
I run the MX-4T Mobil 1 in mine since just after the 600 mile mark and at the 15K - no valve adjustments required.
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So how much are you paying for oil at each change? $50? More than that?
 
Speed Racer said:
rsorrell2 said:
I run the MX-4T Mobil 1 in mine since just after the 600 mile mark and at the 15K - no valve adjustments required.
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So how much are you paying for oil at each change? $50? More than that?
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The price has gone up a lot on oil recently. Mobil1 4T probably runs $11 a quart lately at Advance auto (for example). So five quarts (4.7) would cost you aproximately $55. Then add in the price of a filter. I think it would be a waste of money to change the oil sooner than recommended or yearly at the end of the season if you don't ride that much!
 
rsorrell2 said:
I run the MX-4T Mobil 1 in mine since just after the 600 mile mark and at the 15K - no valve adjustments required.
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lots of c14ers have reported no valve adjustments necessary at the 15k mile mark so i wouldnt necessarily attribute that to the oil. 
 
Mobil One 15w-50 is fine to run in a bike, as it is not an "Energy Conserving" oil. I've been using it for about 15 years now in various bikes. Napa is currently running a sale on it this month for $4.99 a qt.

The thing you have to watch out for when using automotive oils in a motorcycle is the word "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half of the API symbol on the oil container. This indicates it has friction modifiers in it (generally it's molybdenum disulfide). These friction modifiers can get absorbed into the clutch plates and make the clutch slip. They also can cause problems with sprag clutches which are used on some motorcycles starter motors, when they make the sprags too slippery, causing the starter motor not to engage and free spin, usually on the first cold start of the day.

Typically, most all 10w-30 and 5w-whatever oils you'll find at the store are now marked as Energy Conserving. There are only a few left that are not. Mobil One 15-w-50 is one of them, though the other viscosities of Mobil One are Energy Conserving oils.

And one last point I'd like to make. You are far better off using a cheaper oil and changing it more often than using a high dollar oil and running so called "extended drain intervals". Don't get sold a bill of goods on oils that claim to last 10K miles and not need changing. Your engine gets dirt and contaminates in it, both particulate and liquid (acid, moisture etc) and your oil filter won't remove many of them. The only way to get them out is to change the oil. Dirt inside your engine accelerates wear. The single best thing you can do to extend the life of any engine is to change the oil often. Extended oil change intervals are folly. Remember the old adage, penny wise and pound foolish.

The API symbol looks like this: (Note the words Energy Conserving in the bottom half of the circle)

donut10w30.gif
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
Fred,

Here's a link to an interestng oil thread by an oil engineer:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1912.0

He has lots of good info and facts that go against the current grain of wisdom. It's a good read non the less.

Thanks,
Philip
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