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Need help: immobilization error 08 C14

J

jtc14

Big Wheel
I need some help..
I went to start my 08 C14 after work today. The bike ran for about 2 second then died.
I pushed the key & got Immobilization error & then a pic of the key comes on.
No display afterwords & the ABS,Neutral & red light flicker dimly.
I disconnected the batt to try a reset... Same thing.
I loaded the bike on the back of my truck & got it home.
I looked throughout the service manual & there is no mention of this error code appearing anywhere in the manual... WTF..

Any ideas? I will be calling the dealer tomorrow but thought I would post this here as well.

Thanks
JT
 
Immobilizer is part of the KIPASS system. From what you described you may have an actuator partial lock up. But because the bike was running then died. I would check all your battery connections and the battery itself. You probably have a battery issue going on. The bike needs good battery voltage to run. It probably lost it and died. Then you got the error because there is not quite enough battery voltage to allow the actuator to unlock the ignition. So check all the connections and grounds. Also read the battery voltage under the load of trying something also, to make sure your battery isn't going bad.
Of course this is just what I think and could be wrong. My pencils do have erasers!  :))
 
Check the FOB battery. An immobilizer error indicates a communication problem between the KIPASS receiver and the FOB.
 
Cap & Fred
Thanks for your reply.
Fred Both FOB have new batts as of 3 months ago.. I knew it wasn't them..

Cap everytime I pushed the key it would unlock leading me to believe the batt was OK.
After I posted the topic I went out to my garage pushed the key down & checked the batt under load 7.5 VDC!!!

The batt is 1 year old & this is the second battery I have had to put in it.
It did not do this the last time I replaced the batt. It just gradually died. 
I Keep my C14 & Wing both on battery tenders all winter & I ride both bikes year round.
The dealer asked if I use a battery tender & said that all it does is keep the KI Pass going
& does nothing to charge the batt (?)

This should not be happening..
Anyway I am on my way to pick up another $140.00 batt & hope this IS DEFINATLY what is causing the issue.


Thanks again & I'll post a hopefully quick follow up?

JT
 
It was the Batt.
Replaced & eroor code for speed sensor came on.
Went for a ride down the highway & error code gone & bike is back to normal..

I took a closer look at the batt & saw the positive side of the batt case had a slight bulge in it.
Blown/Fried Cell ???


Thanks again Fred & Cap..

JT
 
Make sure your battery tender doesn't have a switch setting on it for 6 volts. If it does, make sure it didn't get accidentally knocked over to the 6 volt setting. That will ruin batteries in short order.
 
Computers are great when they are properly programmed and tell you what is happening--why didn't Mama Kawa program a message of "low voltage check battery" instead of giving you alternative a picture of a cartoon key and immobilizer icons? Did they not expect any batteries going down? I had a loose ground from the battery to the frame, and got these messages when the bike died out on the dark highway one night. Thought I had a computer problem, but it was just a loose wire! What does the Goldwing computer display when your battery is near death?
 
Right now the Goldwing is sitting on my bike lift in the garage &  doesn't have any forks on it.
I blew a seal a week ago & I am waiting for the retaining clips to put it back together.

As far as the wing batt message .. Fortunately I have not had any issues with the wing outside of the for seal going and spraying oil on the brakes.tires & me!!

JT
 
Go to Advance and get an AGM bat. or order a Shorai and forget about it.Get rid of stock bat...........................
 
In regards to your battery issue.  As a former emergency generator technician I know a lot about batteries and tenders.  There are two primary types, trickle and float.  Both suck but trickle is really for over winter storage of motorcycle batteries.  Although a lot of people get away with it, the charger keeps the battery warm during the cold months thus causing it to loose water.  The lack of water can cause the battery to explode when you go to start it, it can sulfate the plates and make it not able to maintain voltage during a load.  Best things to do for over winter storage is one of two.  The first is what I do, nothing I leave the battery in and every two weeks I start the bike and let it run for a while the alternator charges the battery and oil is pumped up to the heads and rod bearings that tend to loose it when sitting too long helps prevent valves sticking as well.  The other thing you can do is remove the battery and so there is no load on it during the winter,  the computer will slowly drain it after about 2 months of not starting.  If you choose to do neither of those hook up a "float" charger which is charger that maintains a specific voltage usually 13.6 and I would  place it on a plug in weekly timer and set it to run about 2 hrs every other day.  Good luck with your new battery.
 
Josh said:
The first is what I do, nothing I leave the battery in and every two weeks I start the bike and let it run for a while the alternator charges the battery and oil is pumped up to the heads and rod bearings that tend to loose it when sitting too long helps prevent valves sticking as well. 
Click to expand...

I disagree. I would suggest you NOT start an engine in the winter on a motorcycle, (or any other vehicle for that matter) unless you intend to actually ride it. In cold weather, you'll have to ride nearly 20 miles (or more) just to bring the oil up to temp to burn off any condensation, and all starting a cold engine and idling it will do is bring even more moisture into the crankcase. You'll never get the oil up to temp by idling it. It needs to hit around 215 degrees or more and stay there for several minutes.

Don't use a $5K engine as a battery charger. Go to Wal Mart and buy a $20 automatic battery charger. Most all new automatic battery chargers now will auto switch from trickle to float modes as the battery voltage rises, and AGM and VRLA sealed batteries won't boil off the water in them like older style batteries did, and there is no harm in leaving it on a float charger for long periods of time.

I do agree that disconnecting the battery during long storage periods will help reduce the parasitic drain on it, so all you have to worry about then is the batteries own self discharge rate, which goes down in colder weather. So simply disconnecting it, and then hooking it to a trickle charger for a few hours every month or two would keep it fully topped up, and this would also be a good strategy.
 
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