New Concours Rider - Advice Needed on Maintenance Intervals

[lloydcliff3210]

Hello,

I'm a brand new Concours owner and have just been reading through the maintenance schedule. A few of the recommended replacement intervals are very surprising to me and I'm curious how diligently more experienced owners follow this schedule?

(For context, I have owned Harley Davidsons my whole riding career so the maintenance of these bikes is my frame of reference).

The following replacement intervals seem like they were designed by lawyers or people who own dealerships, and not engineers:

- Replace fuel hoses every 4 years
- Replace radiator hoses every 3 years
- Replace brake hoses and lines every 4 years
- Rebuild brake / clutch master and slave cylinders every 4 years

Are you guys really doing this?

 

[Bud]

Nope

 

[chrismpero]

Negative.. Welcome and congrats on the new to you bike!

 

[jwh20]

- Replace fuel hoses every 4 years

Nobody does this but I do check mine annually for any signs of deterioration.

- Replace radiator hoses every 3 years

No, a very expensive procedure and again unless you see them bulging or cracked, let them be.

- Replace brake hoses and lines every 4 years

No, but I always flush my brake and clutch fluids at every oil change. This will help your hoses and lines last longer. If I do replace these I'd use braided stainless steel lines.

- Rebuild brake / clutch master and slave cylinders every 4 years

I've never needed to as flushing helps prevent problems. I'd only do this if there is a problem.

 

[lloydcliff3210]

- Replace fuel hoses every 4 years

Nobody does this but I do check mine annually for any signs of deterioration.

- Replace radiator hoses every 3 years

No, a very expensive procedure and again unless you see them bulging or cracked, let them be.

- Replace brake hoses and lines every 4 years

No, but I always flush my brake and clutch fluids at every oil change. This will help your hoses and lines last longer. If I do replace these I'd use braided stainless steel lines.

- Rebuild brake / clutch master and slave cylinders every 4 years

I've never needed to as flushing helps prevent problems. I'd only do this if there is a problem.

Super helpful info, thank you. Quick question on flushing brake lines. My Harley Davidson has ABS and flushing the lines on that (which in the case of HD is the same process as bleeding) requires a special HD diagnostic tool to ensure the ABS control module doesn't get screwed up, and only dealers have this equipment. Can the Concours ABS brakes be flushed without special equipment? (Just curious - I do have a service manual on order so hopefully that will cover it).

 

[lloydcliff3210]

Negative.. Welcome and congrats on the new to you bike!

Thanks, Chris!

 

[lloydcliff3210]

Nope

Thanks. Do you still have the GS1100? One of favorite bikes!! It was the bike I really wanted but couldn't afford the year I left high school. (Yes, I'm old)

 

[Bud]

Go to your favorite gravel spot and activate the abs that way. I still have the GS1100GK. I bought it in 1991 for $1500. I've had that longer than any vehicle I have owned. To be clear, this is the full dress, shaft drive, 8 valve, touring model. I had an 83 GS1100E which was the 16 valve model as well in 83. Dad made a trailer hitch for that one, for a camping trip to the land between the lakes. The 1100E pic is from 1984. IIRC I sold that in 85 for what I had in it. Insurance was EXPENSIVE. I think I went to a 750ES and then the mighty GS1150ES.

 

[chrisd61]

I ride it like I own it - not like I stole it.

First real valve ajustement was done at around 115k (kilometres, converts to, oh, a little under 72k miles) and it didn't need a shim - minor change on one of the valves. Nothing else done except regular oil changes (full synthetic, every 5000 km or so), tire and brake pad replacement (the usual consumables). Since I bought it in 2012, replaced the battery twice - using the recommended Yuasa model, not cheaping out on power. I keep the battery connected to a Noco Genius battery conditionner whenever I'm not using the Connie for a while.

Replaced the air filter too.

So unless you're beating it, it's so reliable it's not even funny.

 

[jwh20]

Super helpful info, thank you. Quick question on flushing brake lines. My Harley Davidson has ABS and flushing the lines on that (which in the case of HD is the same process as bleeding) requires a special HD diagnostic tool to ensure the ABS control module doesn't get screwed up, and only dealers have this equipment. Can the Concours ABS brakes be flushed without special equipment? (Just curious - I do have a service manual on order so hopefully that will cover it).

Nothing special needed to flush the brake or clutch fluid on the C14. I use a vacuum bleeder which makes it a lot easier.

 

[lloydcliff3210]

Go to your favorite gravel spot and activate the abs that way. I still have the GS1100GK. I bought it in 1991 for $1500. I've had that longer than any vehicle I have owned. To be clear, this is the full dress, shaft drive, 8 valve, touring model. I had an 83 GS1100E which was the 16 valve model as well in 83. Dad made a trailer hitch for that one, for a camping trip to the land between the lakes. The 1100E pic is from 1984. IIRC I sold that in 85 for what I had in it. Insurance was EXPENSIVE. I think I went to a 750ES and then the mighty GS1150ES.

The full dresser version is a lot more rare, particularly with the factory top box!! At the time Suzuki was transitioning to the Katana which (arguably) was the start of the fully faired sport bike era. However by contrast, and in my humble opinion, the 81/82 Katana looks dated but the GS still looks stylishly classic!

 

[Bud]

I didn't realize that the GK was more rare. My nephew suggested that one day, I should ask the Barber museum if they want it. I'm not sure they would. It would be interesting to know the answer.

 

[Strawboss]

I look at service manual intervals as being written by lawyers for a vehicle operated at the uppermost worst possible abusive way and in the uppermost abusive environment ever imagined. If you are doing holeshots at the dragway while pulling a trailer on a overloaded bike two-up at 120mph all the while riding through a dust storm with oil thats low and over 5 years old with no filter changed ever and storing the bike in the sun with low radiator fluid in 100+ degree heat for years on end and filling up with 85 octane fuel out of 5 gal buckets traded at a roadside stops in Mexico for years and running with no air cleaner, then, yes, you might want to think about following the manual to a T.

seriously, these things are well built, extending the service intervals a bit isn't going to ruin the bike, simply regular oil/filter changes and air filter replacement and fluid flushes will get you far. I like to look at them as guidlelines, some I follow strictly, some not. After talking to a few more people you will see their bikes and what they've done and you can judge as to your style of work and act accordingly. Good luck, and welcome. I have 109,000 miles on my 2001 C-10 and I did what I mentioned above and expect that bike to get another 100,000 miles. I just got a new 2022 and will do the same.

 

[KretonsLC]

Go to your favorite gravel spot and activate the abs that way. I still have the GS1100GK. I bought it in 1991 for $1500. I've had that longer than any vehicle I have owned. To be clear, this is the full dress, shaft drive, 8 valve, touring model. I had an 83 GS1100E which was the 16 valve model as well in 83. Dad made a trailer hitch for that one, for a camping trip to the land between the lakes. The 1100E pic is from 1984. IIRC I sold that in 85 for what I had in it. Insurance was EXPENSIVE. I think I went to a 750ES and then the mighty GS1150ES.

Ah, the early '80s - when large displacement shaft drive Japanese customs ruled the earth!

 

[jwh20]

I look at service manual intervals as being written by lawyers for a vehicle operated at the uppermost worst possible abusive way and in the uppermost abusive environment ever imagined. If you are doing holeshots at the dragway while pulling a trailer on a overloaded bike two-up at 120mph all the while riding through a dust storm with oil thats low and over 5 years old with no filter changed ever and storing the bike in the sun with low radiator fluid in 100+ degree heat for years on end and filling up with 85 octane fuel out of 5 gal buckets traded at a roadside stops in Mexico for years and running with no air cleaner, then, yes, you might want to think about following the manual to a T.

seriously, these things are well built, extending the service intervals a bit isn't going to ruin the bike, simply regular oil/filter changes and air filter replacement and fluid flushes will get you far. I like to look at them as guidlelines, some I follow strictly, some not. After talking to a few more people you will see their bikes and what they've done and you can judge as to your style of work and act accordingly. Good luck, and welcome. I have 109,000 miles on my 2001 C-10 and I did what I mentioned above and expect that bike to get another 100,000 miles. I just got a new 2022 and will do the same.

I consider the service intervals to be important but not especially urgent. It's not like the engine will fail at 1 mile past the oil change interval. But they also factor in some worst-case scenarios in the mix. I think it's the same with fuel, brake, and coolant lines. I'm sure that under some circumstances they may be deteriorating at the recommended time. But in most cases they will safely last much longer. But regular inspections are a must for safety items like the brake lines and fuel lines. Nothing can ruin your ride quicker than a brake line bursting or a fire from a broken fuel line.

 

[2andblue]

One of the intervals that surprises me most is the spark plug change, I believe it’s every 7K miles… For these high quality plugs - This is IMO nothing more than a money printer…. Dealerships charging $100/HR have to tear this thing down pretty good to get in there and most will then say yes change air filter while in there, of course all parts have a healthy markup as well. I think most owners are just changing them at their valve checks with no known repercussions.

Valve check at every 17K miles is another huge cost - well documented that after first adjustment movement slows dramatically and 25K probably better timing for first adjustment. I’ll do mine again after this season, will be close to 30K miles after initial check.

As mentioned above by others the service manual appears built for the most extreme use case.

Have noticed the air filter is consistently m crudded up at the listed 11K mikes.

I also change my full synthetic oils (engine oil / differential) every 5K - 5.5K miles. Maybe throwing away money, however I do use every bit of the machine’s RPM range so would consider this higher end on the service life.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[HeathCreek]

Go to your favorite gravel spot and activate the abs that way. I still have the GS1100GK. I bought it in 1991 for $1500. I've had that longer than any vehicle I have owned. To be clear, this is the full dress, shaft drive, 8 valve, touring model. I had an 83 GS1100E which was the 16 valve model as well in 83. Dad made a trailer hitch for that one, for a camping trip to the land between the lakes. The 1100E pic is from 1984. IIRC I sold that in 85 for what I had in it. Insurance was EXPENSIVE. I think I went to a 750ES and then the mighty GS1150ES.

Awesome pics!

 

[rlievenski4555]

I believe that long-term storage without use is tougher on the bike than one regularly ridden and inspected for wear. Keeping the fluids fresh as they flow through the various rubber hoses will prolong life.

My bike sat in a garage for nearly 10 years before I brought her home. She is an 09’ and had less than 10k on the clock. I immediately replaced all brake/clutch lines with stainless for both feel and robustness and happy with the results.

Last spring involved a valve clearance check at just over 15k. I found 13 of 16 valves tight, some a couple thousands off specs. Glad I brought her back to correct clearances, added a new gasket kit and plugs (Murph’s kits), and bolted on a new header. While apart, all cooling lines were replaced… the main hoses were pretty stiff. Replacing the bag filter of the fuel pump is suggested while the bike is apart anyway. It is surprising how much junk collects on it over a relatively short period of time. She runs better than ever now.

I just received all the parts to rebuild the braking system including calipers and masters. Years of storage and 22k miles of heat make me want to be 100% sure such critical systems are at top operating condition.

Finally, don’t forget the fork fluids. The first change yielded some nasty black/grey oil. I had to replace a weeping fork seal that was pretty hard my first summer of riding. I just did it again after around 8-10k and the fluid was in decent shape. Having the forks out gave me the chance to fully inspect the tubes and polish off the start of a couple pits to prolong seal life.

All but the valve check are pretty easy jobs for someone with decent mechanical ability. YouTube has videos on all… but Fred Harmen’s are the best if you can snag a set.

You made a great choice and will enjoy many miles on your new bike! Welcome to the group!

Rob

 

[danmcdermott]

Hello,

I'm a brand new Concours owner and have just been reading through the maintenance schedule. A few of the recommended replacement intervals are very surprising to me and I'm curious how diligently more experienced owners follow this schedule?

(For context, I have owned Harley Davidsons my whole riding career so the maintenance of these bikes is my frame of reference).

The following replacement intervals seem like they were designed by lawyers or people who own dealerships, and not engineers:

- Replace fuel hoses every 4 years
- Replace radiator hoses every 3 years
- Replace brake hoses and lines every 4 years
- Rebuild brake / clutch master and slave cylinders every 4 years

Are you guys really doing this?

I have a 12' purchased in 14'. My 2 cents. I replaced the fuel hoses after 8 years just because I put 100K on the bike, however there was no leakage or signs of aging, I replaced my radiator hoses for the same reason with the same findings. I rebuilt the brake and clutch Master & slave cylinder at the same time because I rode through some nasty road gunk that required me to rebuild all my calipers and replace all my brake disc's, so why not. I have yet to replace or even think about replacing the brake hoses/lines although I do flush brake and clutch systems every 2 years.