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Ohlins Rear Shock update

Fred H.

Fred H.

Member
Member
Just wanted to drop a note and tell you that I now have several thousand miles on the Ohlins rear shock, and I couldn't be happier with it. It really has improved the ride and I have not had to make any adjustments to it at all since I got it back from them. I did return it once to have the spring changed to the next lower spring rate, but that's the only change that has been done to it. While it has adjustments for both compression and rebound damping rates, I haven't had to touch them. They are spot on perfect as sent from the factory. It really is a quality shock.

I believe they have made some minor changes to the clevis to make it better fit the 2010 models, though I was still able to get mine mounted even before they made those changes by simply mounting the bottom bolt first and pushing the top forward and then putting in the upper bolt. It fits and works fine, I think the changes to the clevis were only made to make it easier to install.

Anyway, if you're looking for a rear shock, I'd highly recommend you consider the Ohlins.  COG is also going to raffle one off later this year, so you might want to get in on that action.
 
is there a model number or options for the c14 rear ??
Anything done to the front ?? springs, valving ??

thanks for the update.
Joel

Say Fred, how do u ride ? commuter, twistie person, track guy ? trying to get a feel for your style and when the benefits of this shock come into play. My mechanic wants me to start up front with springs and valves and stuff, then the rear.
thanks again
 
JS_racer said:
is there a model number or options for the c14 rear ??
Anything done to the front ?? springs, valving ??

thanks for the update.
Joel

Say Fred, how do u ride ? commuter, twistie person, track guy ? trying to get a feel for your style and when the benefits of this shock come into play. My mechanic wants me to start up front with springs and valves and stuff, then the rear.
thanks again
Click to expand...

The Ohlins part number for the shock for the 2008/2009 Concours is KA 709
I think they may be making a new part number for the 2010 bike, though I'm not sure what it is yet.

I'm can and do ride fairly aggressively at times, though I've been making an effort to dial it back a notch or two lately. Almost all my riding is on two lane twisty roads, and I never take the interstate unless I have no other choice. I also ride a lot of rather "technical" roads that have rough and uneven pavement, so I give the suspension a pretty good workout.
 
starting with the front i think, was told it would be most noticeable, the rear then finishes the job.
 
Ditto excellent experience with the Ohlins Shock.  I also had my forks re-valved and re-shimmed with Race Tech by Piper Suspension in Fort Worth.  Whole new bike.
 
Looks like its time for me to say bye bye to the Ohlins shock. I'm sure gonna miss it. I know whoever wins this at the raffle is really gonna love it.
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
Looks like its time for me to say bye bye to the Ohlins shock. I'm sure gonna miss it. I know whoever wins this at the raffle is really gonna love it.
Click to expand...
You know... If you attend the National... I'm just saying...  >:D
 
Man, I miss that big yellow shock already. I feel like a drug addict that had to give up Ohlins cold turkey. I need just one more fix.
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
I couldn't stand it anymore. I called today and pulled the trigger on a new Ohlins rear shock.
Click to expand...

Congrats Fred!  :beerchug:

It's hard to ride coach after you've been spoiled in first class eh...  ;)
 
Exiledviking said:
Fred,

Thanks for the link.

Did you have any work done to the forks or were they stock?
Click to expand...

I have the Traxxion fork springs and AK-20 dampers in my forks, which currently have a 15% sale going for COG members. I installed them myself.
 
Fred,

I just completed a 3rd track day in 2 years and am loving the bike. It's cool when other riders walk up who are on litre and 600 bikes and comment on how well the connie hauls arse. As my instructor said, she's a big girl and you just have to know how to lead her around the dance floor.

Back to suspension. I currently have my sag set, but I'm running out of control on rebound. My front rebound is turned all the way to the right, is this optimal I don't know, but the bike seems very stable. I guess I should try backing it off and seeing what happens.

My question. Could this be becuase I need new fork oil, I don't think its been changed in 12k miles? Or since I'm 250lbs with gear and more senstive to bike setup, I'm at the end of what the stock suspension can offer?

Thoughts?
 
Stewart said:
Fred,

I just completed a 3rd track day in 2 years and am loving the bike. It's cool when other riders walk up who are on litre and 600 bikes and comment on how well the connie hauls arse. As my instructor said, she's a big girl and you just have to know how to lead her around the dance floor.

Back to suspension. I currently have my sag set, but I'm running out of control on rebound. My front rebound is turned all the way to the right, is this optimal I don't know, but the bike seems very stable. I guess I should try backing it off and seeing what happens.

My question. Could this be becuase I need new fork oil, I don't think its been changed in 12k miles? Or since I'm 250lbs with gear and more senstive to bike setup, I'm at the end of what the stock suspension can offer?

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Stewart, it sounds like the combination of your weight, and the aggressiveness/speed of your riding style have you at the limits of your suspension. A fork oil change may help some, but probably won't totally resolve it. A slightly higher fork oil viscosity might also be something you could try, but that only addresses half the problem (damping) and doesn't fix the spring rate issue. Typically on the track you'll want both more spring and more damping because you are riding at higher speeds. Higher speeds are more demanding on the suspension and you'll typically need higher spring rates and more damping to achieve the same level of control you have at lower speeds. If there ever is a problem in how you have your suspension set it, the faster you ride, the worse it will get, because increased speeds will increase the velocity that the suspension travels as it hits a bump, and this is why you are having to crank down on your rebound damping adjustment all the way. The settings that work and feel good at low speed won't feel good at high speeds, and vice versa. So as in most things, it's always a compromise finding a setting that works good in all situations.

If you want to continue to track the bike, you're probably looking at a suspension upgrade. The OEM damper cartridges and spring in the forks are probably set up toward the softer side to try to accommodate a wider range of riders and riding conditions. What you need are fork spring rates chosen to more properly match your weight, with new damper cartridges to match those spring rates, and a new rear shock with a spring rate to match your weight would also be a good idea. Both Traxxion, and now Ohlins make drop in replacement springs and 20mm cartridges for the C14, along with new rear shocks, and they are both recognized as two of the best in the business.

Traxxion current has a 15% discount this week going on for COG members, and I believe this also applies to their Penske rear shock, so you might want to give them a call. Ohlins may also have some competitive deals if you shop around a bit.
 
Fred,

Thanks for the input and worthy of consideration. For now I think I'm just going to have to live with what I have. Ultimately if I want to ride that hard/fast on the track more frequently, I think I might have to save my pennies and get a track bike. Or I can ride the Connie twice a year and just be happy with what I have.
 
Stewart said:
Fred,

Thanks for the input and worthy of consideration. For now I think I'm just going to have to live with what I have. Ultimately if I want to ride that hard/fast on the track more frequently, I think I might have to save my pennies and get a track bike. Or I can ride the Connie twice a year and just be happy with what I have.
Click to expand...

You could just try decreasing your sag a bit (add preload) and cranking in more rebound damping on both ends. If that isn't enough, another low cost solution might be stiffer fork springs coupled with a slightly higher viscosity fork oil. However, the only way to improve the rear will probably be to just replace the rear shock with a different one. You might check with Mad River Marc and see how he likes his rear hyperpro shock. I don't know what those cost or how they perform though. 

I can tell you that both the Ohlins and Traxxion systems are cases where "you get what you pay for". One big advantage of them is that they are already pretty much dialed in for the bike, and anyone who has ever messed with suspension knows you can spend a lifetime trying to get it "dialed in" correctly, so having it set up properly from the begining is a big plus. When I installed the Ohlins rear shock I didn't have to turn a single knob. I think I added one click to the rebound adjuster on the Traxxion AK-20's and it has been perfect.
 
The Ohlins and Traxxion are the Rolls Royce of suspension. IT's the best you can get period!

I went the Hyperpro route which is a LOT less expensive.  I decided to go with their rear shock, but if you don't want to spend the $ they have a front and rear spring kit that made a BIG difference on my old FJR.

 
Is the rear sotck spring too heavy for a 160lb rider plus 10-20lbs of gear?  I know this bike is known for carrying a passenger, did they put too stiff a spring on for someone like me?
 
RyanP said:
Is the rear sotck spring too heavy for a 160lb rider plus 10-20lbs of gear?  I know this bike is known for carrying a passenger, did they put too stiff a spring on for someone like me?
Click to expand...

It shouldn't be, you probably just need to set the sag and adjust the damping to match your weight and ride preferences. Try to get 34mm sag on the rear (if you want a softer ride, increase sag to 36 or 38 mm). Then start adjusting the rebound damping by trial and error till you find a place that feels good for you.

13 clicks on the rear preload adjuster from full CCW and about 4 1/4 lines showing on the front fork preload adjusters should get you close.
 
I got my new rear Ohlins shock installed yesterday, and I now have Traxxion on the front and Ohlins on the rear. It seems to be a real nice combination, and it really rides nice now. It soaks up the bumps and is extremely stable front and rear on all road surfaces and speeds.

My weight (185) put me right inbetween two springs rates for the Ohlins rear. When I first tested one last year I initially went with the 140 newton/meter (1239 lbs/in) spring, but later had them swap it out to the 130 newton/meter rate spring (1150 lb/in). The 140 spring felt really good at high speed, but the 130 soaks up the bumps much better at highway and lower speeds, and since this is a sport-touring bike, I went with the lower spring rate on the second Ohlins as well. Though I do wish they made a 135 newton/meter spring, as the 130 does feel just a tad soft at the upper speed ranges (beyond normal highway speeds). I can probably add some compression damping to compensate for it, but haven't yet tried that yet.

One thing I do find a little confusing is on page 10 of the Ohlins manual (see link below). They tell you to turn the rebound damper full CW to the closed position and then count clicks, but the adjuster for both rebound and compression are mounted in a horizontal plane. So I'm not sure which direction clockwise should be, as I don't know if the frame of reference is from the bottom of the shock looking up, or the top looking down. I also have the same question for the compression damping adjuster.

http://www.ohlins.com/Products/OwnersManuals/OM_07241-02.pdf
 
Fred, It's my opinion that it doesn't matter which way you are looking at it. Screwing a right handed screw in is turning it clockwise. So in short, you're over thinking it.  :)
 
- when the term CW or CCW is used , it is always in reference to the user looking at the item being turned.

- Fred , where did you get the Ohlins ? Which model and for which bike ? Front also available from Ohlins ?

- thanks !

.
 
dog said:
- when the term CW or CCW is used , it is always in reference to the user looking at the item being turned.

- Fred , where did you get the Ohlins ? Which model and for which bike ? Front also available from Ohlins ?

- thanks !

.
Click to expand...


I always reference CW or CCW by looking at the (in this case) knob face(like a clock). As far as front, there is a thread on Ohlin's forks (expensive) a little ways back in the menu for this section. Here's a link to it so you do have to search it out.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,34582.0.html
 
The problem is that there is no knob face. Take a look at this photo from Ohlin's instruction manual and tell me which way you think is CW. The best guess I have is that you are supposed to be looking down on the shock, so you would rotate it to the right for CW, but it really is ambiguous and the drawing doesn't help either cause they arrow shows both directions.
 

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Righ-e-tight-e. Left-e-loose-e. So yes. In the image that you posted, that would be the way thay I would interpret it.
 
The Pope said:
Righ-e-tight-e. Left-e-loose-e. So yes. In the image that you posted, that would be the way thay I would interpret it.
Click to expand...

Yea, that is what I thought too, but after doing some testing, it appears it is the exact opposite. When they say "clockwise", the mean the clock face is upside down, so the perspective is supposed to be from the BOTTOM of the shock looking UP.

The stock settings for the Ohlins C14 shock for rebound are:
- 16 clicks from the zero point which is full clockwise, with the first click counted as "zero"
- and the compression is 14 clicks CCW from full clockwise.

I'm going to add one or two additional clicks of compression damping to mine to stiffen it up a bit and see how it feels.
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
The problem is that there is no knob face. Take a look at this photo from Ohlin's instruction manual and tell me which way you think is CW. The best guess I have is that you are supposed to be looking down on the shock, so you would rotate it to the right for CW, but it really is ambiguous and the drawing doesn't help either cause they arrow shows both directions.
Click to expand...

- now i understand your problem !  Haha.

- had an adjuster like this on coilovers on one of the cars.

- by feel , at the end : ie , turn one way and you'll actually feel the mechanism tightening up. The other way and it gets "looser".

- good luck with your ohlins Fred !

.
 
I added two more clicks of compression damping, and that seemed to stiffen it up a bit more to my liking. I'm right inbetween spring rates and went with the lower rate spring, so adding a couple clicks of compression damping seems to be enough to supplement the spring to bring it to where I need. I probably could have achieved the same feel with the higher rate spring and subtracting compression damping.

I also took out one click of compression damping on the Traxxion AK-20 fork damper and that made a nice difference on the front end as well. I think I may have everything just about perfect now.

I'm still a bit unsure if I should have gone with the 140 newton/meter spring or not, but when I first tried it a year or so ago, it felt a bit too stiff, though I never tried backing off the compression adjuster because Ohlins advised me to just "ride it out of the box" and see what I thought.

 
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