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Oil change

S

shall

Member
Member
I know the manual states that I should use 10W40,but I came across some synthetic Shell 10W30 and would like to be able to us it. Has anyone else used different weights and types of oil? I usually us Spectro gold 10W40 at $9.95 each but the $45 could go for other expenses in life. I would like to save some money but not at the expense of my bike. I'm sure there are some opinions about this out there, I would love to hear them and hopefully learn something.
 
I haven't used anything but 10W40 as recommended in the manual. However I have tried cheaper motorcycle oils, sythnthetic, synthetic blend, etc. All seem to work fine - they got very dirty (thus doing their job). Most important thing is to change it as recommended and to stay away from high-mileage car oils that could cause the clutch to slip because of the modifiers. Go with a cheap motorcycle specific oil and change at 3,000. Greg COG # 7010/7010a (Tracey) CDA 0120 Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude (CDAAD) 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle". 05 Ninja 250
 
I think you are supposed to stay away from any energy conserving oil. It will have the EC symbol on the bottle somewhere. A lot of 10w30's are EC.
 
Don't forget this engine was designed in 1980, and first used on the 1984 (1983?) Ninja 900. Energy saving oils weren't all that prevalent back then. Seals, orifices, pumps, tubes and channels are all designed with a specific "weight" of oil in mind. Oil, as a topic of discussion, is akin to religion and politcs on forums such as this. :) So here's my 2 cents: If you want to save money, just use a less expensive oil. Many COGers, myself included, had excellent results using Castrol GTX, available in Wally World and supermarkets. Honda's private label oil is excellent, reasonably priced and comes in 5 quart jugs. I am a firm believer in oil & filter changes every 3000 miles, regardless of the type or cost of the oil. My personal recommendation is not NOT use your on-hand 10W30, especially with summer upon us. But WTF do I know? Will your 10W30 Syn hurt the Concours? Probably not. But I, nor anyone else on this forum, have done any valid science-based testing. We all have opinions, some learned, some pulled out of the nether-region. Do whatever floats yer boat. The Original Rich Reed COG #7 1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R 1977 Yamaha XS650 Standard 2004 Little Blue Chevy "Over the hill it's five bucks. Here in Idaho it's a hundred and eighty."
 
I have used Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 with outstanding results. Shifting is smoother and my Concours always liked it. Once I ran 6500 miles between changes on three highway trips. Walmart sells it for about $17/gal. There are many threads on many boards that call it the best available, but I know that Amsoil is actually the best but costs about $40 for 4 quarts.
 
However if frugality is necessary I would go with Rotella dino, available at Advance Auto Parts and I think also at Walmart. I also would use Valvoline 10w40 or 10w30 but not the high mileage oil, just the white bottle oil. I used it for years in air cooled 4-cylinders from Suzuki and Kawasaki and it is an excellent oil. It also worked well in my Concours before I went to Rotella. I sold my Concours with 60k miles on it and it did not leak or burn any oil, not even at 6500 miles between changes with the Rotella Syn
 
I believe in dino=3000, synth=6000 -- For the Connie. I am no expert, its only my opinion. I have never done oil analysis on the Connie. I have done some on the wifes old car, and have done many many samples on my truck comparing both Dino and Synth. Oil Analysis in the truck shows that Synth definately holds up better. Wear metals were about the same. I didnt see any difference there. From a viscosity and additive package viewpoint, the synth oil hold its viscotity longer, etc. Still I think it depends. I some ways I think the MFG's use 3000mi as what they list in the manual to be on the safe side of things and cover all worst case scenarios. -- Meaning for example I remember back when the wife and I had a 626 and a little dodge colt. I used Mobil 1 in both. In the 626 with the Wife driving at 5K the Mobil 1 look like you just changed it only a few weeks ago. At 10K it was finally looking like it needed changed. I could never bring myself to go more than 10K. But at 6K I would pull the dipstick and examine the oil and wonder why I was bothering. WHERE on the colt with my driving that thing was looking ready to change at 5K even with Mobil 1. 2500 on dino was looking black, dirty and felt thinner compared to new fresh from the bottle. The 626 at that interval was barely starting to brown. Still way too much golden color to the oil at 2500mi on Mobil 1. But then the truck for example, always gets firty fast no matter what. Its a diesel and soot gets in the oil. Here w/o a bypass filter setup I am not sure I would do extended intervals at all. Some do. But I wouldnt. Just too much crap getting into the oil. Sync also has better temperature characteristics. For turbo charged vehicles where oil can sit in a hot turbo after shutdown, I would tend to stick with synth. So I guess where I am going with this is that I believe the blind 3000mi no matter what rule was dreamed up my MFG's to cover the masses under worst case. Hell even many/all onwers manuals I see have something like 7500mi under normal conditions and 3750 under heavy duty conditions. Then of course they list what qualifies as HD. And just about everything does. But my point is even the MFGs of our vehicles make an attempt to recognize oil intervals vary under different conditions. I believe in analysis, and using your judgement to come up with what is right for your vehicle under the conditions you drive it in.
 
No offense meant, but I guess thats because I dont mind doing that stuff. I suppose that if you just want to drive your vehicle, take it in when the odo says so, and ever have to think about it, then 3K rule is not a bad rule. -- I guess I just like to get out in the garage more than that.
 
I run Mobil 1 15~50 synthetic. I live in the warm part of the country and ride daily. I try to change it at 3,000 miles, but if I run longer I don't worry. Between the manual saying 6k and the fact that synthetic lasts longer I'm safe. But oil is cheep compared to any problems. My thoughts, Yuma, Summer in Yuma is not hell, but hell is a local call :) 2006 Connie http://community.webshots.com/user/Lateck?vhost=community
 
An oil thread??? Now I know this is a real COG forum :) -- Steve Smith, #3184 COG Northest Area Director (somewhere in south central CT) If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
 
Flaming oil thread!!!! And I was the first to mention Rotella dino and syn! What an honor. I did sell my Concours and moved up a notch in sport touring to a ZZR1200 (2002). It's got the Concours motor on steroids and all the improvements (17" wheels, 140hp, better suspension) and none of the niceties like a big windshield and hard bags. :)
 
Flaming oil thread!!!! And I was the first to mention Rotella dino and syn! What an honor. I did sell my Concours and moved up a notch in sport touring to a ZZR1200 (2002). It's got the Concours motor on steroids and all the improvements (17" wheels, 140hp, better suspension) and none of the niceties like a big windshield and hard bags. :)
 
After 125k mi on the former '98 C10 that now has about 135k mi, I rode it after months after having the 24 kmi '01. Using dino oil all those miles on both. I could not tell the diff with engine noise or performance. Yes, I do stay away from the energy saving type and use 10-40 and 20-50 and change @3k mi and filter @ 3 or 6. I get the chevron/shell/havoline whatever that is on sale by case at Schucks. Same with all my other vehicles. Dan P COG 2877
 
I use the shell synth stuff and it seems good. I was just wondering how much the current usage of it is more based on a very knowledgeable sounding web site that came out a few years back that showed it having the best specs for our type of engine? I bet none of us have the knowledge to dispute the web site or prove that it makes any real difference between the ones that tested OK and ones there were top of the test. This might be the site I am talking about but I am not going to read it all again to find out. http://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.
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<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br
 
In the summer I run 15w50 or 20w50, winter 10w40. I've used a lot of different brands and types, even run Pennzoil dino once. But my preference is for the blends, good performance at a reasonable price. tcars John
 
Thanks to you everyone that put there "two cents in", as I said before I was sure that I would learn something. With my family coming first I don't get to ride much so I only put 3000 miles on a year anyway. I decided to use the oil I have on hand for the mowers and stick with Spectro for the once a season oil change. That way I'll have my Connie for many years to come. Hopefully I'll see some COG members at Americade this weekend. Thanks again.
 
Going to Americade? Hey, if you are up riding the hills around Lake George and see a 30-ish guy wearing a Hi Viz one-piece Aerostich riding a red Viffer with Givi hard bags, say hi to him. That's my son, Tim. It is still in Lake George, isn't it? Or am I dating myself? dang.....it's a bitch getting old... The Original Rich Reed COG #7 1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R 1977 Yamaha XS650 Standard 2004 Little Blue Chevy "Over the hill it's five bucks. Here in Idaho it's a hundred and eighty."
 
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