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Pulsating headlight, at all RPMs, but gets better as electric load increases

woolhound227

Tricycle
I've seen threads from over the past 2-3 years that have dealt a little bit with what's generally considered an only an annoyance: a pulsating headlight at idle (dash lights, brake light, too).  I haven't seen anyone in those threads post any real final resolutions, but let me throw out my situation, which occurs at ALL RPMs, but changes in frequency with RPM, and something else interesting I found tonight.

First,  it's a 2006 with about 30,000 miles.  I've used two different batteries with the same results.  "Free power mod" done to promote better ground.  I've disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected all multi-pin connectors.  Battery cables cleaned and free of corrosion.  Alternator connectors tight and clean.  J-box connections (external) are all clean and tight.  Voltage at battery while running is pretty steady at 14.5 to 14.6V.  Steve-clean carbs, new plugs, wires, caps. 

Situation:  at idle, all lights on the bike pulsate.  Think about how a headlight modulator looks.  It's like that but not quite so dramatic.  My idle is set at 1200rpm.  As I increase RPM, the pulsating does not go away, rather the frequency of the pulsating increases with speed.

The pulsing in the lights is also clearly directly correlated with a noticeable "pulsating" in the idle.  In other words, the fluctuation in the electrical system is affecting more than just the lights. Idle is also "pulsating", if you will, in sync with the lights.  The impact on the running of the engine isn't as noticeable at road speed RPM because the frequency of the fluctuation has increased so much.  The lighting issue is bad enough that while riding at night, I can see the modulating effect of the headlight shining on the road and on vehicles ahead of me.  It's that bad. 

Now while in the garage tonight I stumbled on something.  When I grabbed the brake and the brake lights came on, the pulsating improved and the idle smoothed out some, but still in frequency with the improved pulsating issue.  I then turned on the high beam and it got even better.  The only other thing I could turn on were the emergency flashers.  With all that extra load put on the system, the pulsating all but went away completely and idle smoothed out considerably.  Taking each of those added loads off one by one, the problem increased again. 

The battery, as a capacitor, should have the ability to help smooth out somewhat uneven discharge from the alternator, correct?  But if it's unable to handle perhaps some excess spikes from the alternator, is that what's happening when I put the extra load on from the other lights?  ...that those extra lights are absorbing an excess output from alternator that the battery can't absorb on its own?

I could let it go, perhaps, as an annoyance or "character" of the bike if it was just at idle, but when this is enough to make a flashing headlight (and all other lights) at night at higher-than-idle RPM, and when it noticeably affects engine performance, I want to get to the root of the matter and correct it before it turns into something worse later on.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 
OK ... It's late and I am tired ... But I thought i would offer a suggestion. I would look at the alternator/regulator ... After all, youve checked everything else.  ;D

Perhaps one of the diodes in the regulator is blown ... Causing a pulsation from 14.5 "regulator" volts down to 12.5 "battery" volts. When you rev, the pulsation lessens ... But doesn't go away.

A blown regulator seems to follow the evidence ... Increased RPM reduces the intensity of the fluctuation because the average voltage out of the regulator increases ... But still doesn't overcome the bad diode rectifier circuit problem.

I will be interested in what the group has to say ... And your final solution.
 
Aussie,  the pulsating doesn't go away or decrease at all with increased RPM.  It actually stays the same in intensity, however the frequency (the speed at which it's all flashing) increases.  The issue only improves as I add load to the system. 

Is the regulator, rectifier, diode all part of the same assembly under the alternator's cover?
 
Gotcha ...  Unfortunately I am not an expert on bike electrics ... But I think that the regulator might be built into the alternator nowadays.

I think the issue "improves" as you load the system because the other rectifiers in the circuit start to overload and the difference between alternator voltage and battery voltage reduces ... Hence less modulation.
 
Check your grounds as well. I've seen several GS Suzuki's (and one Yamaha's) electronics that turned to mush when the grounds failed.
Alternators put out a whole lot more than they need and at voltages they can't use, if it doesn't go somewhere to get cleaned/polished first. That is usually done by the regulator.
http://www.bikerperformance.com/electrosport-regulator-rectifier-kawasaki-zg1000-zg1200-86-06-p10115.html if you need one a bit better in quality than what comes with it. (and a hell of a lot cheaper than $322ea from Kawasaki). You can find a new generator (alternator) that's good, it'd be the fastest repair and most likely the cheapest.

Just a guess though. I've been told I don't know what I'm talking about a LOT lately.

http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=396582&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2005&fveh=9108 Part number 21066
 
My bike does the same thing.  Only difference is I have an HID headlight and occasionally, not too often, the light hiccups (blinks).  I just live with it since the bike rides fine.  I would fix it if I knew of a solution but, given all the other problems I have to deal with on a daily basis....it's just too small a potato.

My first thought, though, given my limited knowledge of electronics, is a capacitor.  Aside from the bike world, namely computers, capacitors are an ongoing problem.  Which is why I see the later generation of HP laptop motherboards have done away with them.  How, I do not know - given their function of storing electricity like a battery and delivering it when needed.

Anyway, in my day to day encounter with electronics (which is all day long since I repair A LOT of PCs and other equipment, capacitors are the weakest link.  75 percent of the time I run into a dead motherboard, a capacitor is at fault. After that it is usually a micro fracture in a solder joint.

It goes without saying that on both mine and your bike (and I'm sure a lot others), the electrical system is not producing a  constant level of voltage.  I think Aussie's theory is very plausible as well.
 
Yes, I experience the pulsing at idle as well. My 86 did the same thing.

When I added a voltage monitor, what I saw is that at idle, the voltage is actually getting higher than it should.

Mine goes away above 1500 rpm, and the voltage drops to its proper level.

It sounds like the regulator is not working correctly in your case, and I would try the regulator millerized sent you.
 
Probably not telling you guys anything you don't already know ... But the alternator coils output AC voltage and that is rectified into DC at around 14.5v. The rectifier is the AC to DC converter. If one of the diodes goes bad you get some fluctuation in the DC voltage ...

You need to have a higher voltage than the battery 12V to charge the battery ... Volts "roll downhill" from the alternator potential 14.5V to the battery 12V.

To test the alternator rectifier you would need a scope ... Which is probably not likely. You might be able to take your alternator into an auto-store and have it tested though.

Still would like a tech to weight in though ... Us engineers are good at theory ... But ...
 
Free Power Mod. Also, I would be taking a close look at the ground wire at the left side coil.  ;D

My bad, I see you did the mod... still, I'd look at that coil ground.
 
I assume you did check the brushes in the alternator. Page 271 of
your Clymer manual. Yes it sure sounds like you have a bad diode
in the voltage regulator, test on page 277 of your Clymer manual.
By the way the battery only acts as a capactor when it is discharged.
When fully charged the battery acts as a high resistance that's why a fully
charged battery draws less current and the voltage rises to the level
where the regulator stops it from rising by diverting current to ground.
The ground path is thru the screws that hold the regulator in place.
 
That ^^^ is a good point. Also, a possible open stator winding?

Another thing to consider: Most digital voltmeters do not have a fast enough refresh rate to show brief voltage fluctuations. So what looks like a steady reading may not actually be the case.  To see the highest and lowest voltage, you need a meter like a Fluke 87, which is capable of snapshot recording and displaying 1 millisecond high and low readings.
 
Lots of good thoughts, guys. 

I hope to report some concrete findings of some sort soon.  I'll check back in ASAP. 

Thanks!



 
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