How have most of you installed the controller for your Rostra? (On the bars I mean) Is there a bracket available for mounting on the left bar?
Thanks
Thanks
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Question for those who installed Rostra Cruise
- Thread starter flashback50
- Start date
I'm not able to answer your question, but I had previously installed the CS100 cruise (similar to Rosta) on my old Honda ST1100, and was able to use the cruise controller for a same year Goldwing. It made the whole project turn out really nice. Has anyone done anything like that with any Kawi parts? I never liked the controller that comes with the Rosta Cruise, but want to add cruise to my bike.
flashback50 said:
Danny, take a look at this thread for some ideas: http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=53492.msg387247#msg387247
I purchased the right hand SS mount from Murph, but beginning to think that mounting the CC controller on the left handlebar, makes WAY more sense ergonomically.
Hoping to tackle the Rostra install process in the coming weeks of winter....although, it looks to be shaping-up
to be a very mild winter, so time may be tighter than expected!
gr
Hoping to tackle the Rostra install process in the coming weeks of winter....although, it looks to be shaping-up
to be a very mild winter, so time may be tighter than expected!
gr
C14lvr said:
Thanks,
I looked at Murph's mount but it looks like it won't work with a 2010 and up with heated grips. The screw it attaches to is covered by the heated grip wire guard on the right side.
ghostrider990 said:
Hey GR what year bike do you have? It looks to me like the Murph's mount won't work with bikes with heated grips because of the way it attaches. But maybe I'm mistaken.
C14lvr
Street Cruiser
flashback50 said:
That's why I mounted mine on the left hand side on my 2011.
Plus, it makes it far better to set the cruise with the left hand while holding the throttle steady with the right.
If you install it on the left it works fine with heated grips. Does not work on the right side, due to the metal cover that goes over the moving wire for the grip heater.
Zarticus said:
Hey Zart -
Can you post-up a pic of your rendition of Murph's mount??
And Yes....mine is a 2012, so I must have missed that little tidbit of info when I purchased!
Damn, I need to get ON this install....but I'm S C A R E D!!! :-\
gr
Zarticus said:
Still on vacation Zart?? ;D
C14lvr
Street Cruiser
Hey, ghostrider990,
Really, the only "scarey" part for me was when it came time to drill the hole in the throttle bracket.
A fuel injector is right behind that area, so you have to be sure and put a piece of metal plate or something in behind the throttle... so you don't slip and accidentally install a new hole in your injector...
Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. Sort the mechanical, then the electrical.
Lots of documentation and pictures. Probably the biggest challenge of all is removing / reinstalling the Tupperware, without breaking something fragile or losing a fastener...
If you get stuck, and need advice, let me know. i've installed several Rostra's and a Audiovox 100.
Maybe I can help. Unless you have -0- mechanical skills, You can do it!
Bob
Really, the only "scarey" part for me was when it came time to drill the hole in the throttle bracket.
A fuel injector is right behind that area, so you have to be sure and put a piece of metal plate or something in behind the throttle... so you don't slip and accidentally install a new hole in your injector...
Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. Sort the mechanical, then the electrical.
Lots of documentation and pictures. Probably the biggest challenge of all is removing / reinstalling the Tupperware, without breaking something fragile or losing a fastener...
If you get stuck, and need advice, let me know. i've installed several Rostra's and a Audiovox 100.
Maybe I can help. Unless you have -0- mechanical skills, You can do it!
Bob
I used a hex bolt with a beveled head "think drywall screw type head" so it would recess into murphs bracket mounting hole. I then used a nylon bushing on the backside of the bracket to space it out from the handlebar control clamp a little, The hex bolt goes threw murphs bracket & then threw the spacer & then threads into the factory control clamp. Then you just mount the cruise switch to murphs bracket once its in place. I can reach over with my left thumb to set the cruise without taking my hand all the way off the grip. I may be bias but I think my idea is the best for safety, ease of use & looks :beerchug:
Attachments
Looks Good Zart - THANKS!
--agreed tho....left handlebar makes WAY more sense!--
--agreed tho....left handlebar makes WAY more sense!--
I just made a bracket for a friend yesterday. We did cut off the nubs on the controller and drill it for bolts and screws instead. The installer for the system just had an ugly mount for this system and mounted it to the brake reservoir so it kept moving when you hit buttons. This works much better. We used a sheet of 16ga. aluminum, jigsaw, grinder, and drill mainly to make the mounting plate.
Only thing left is to prime it and paint flat black
Only thing left is to prime it and paint flat black
Attachments
That looks very nice, Ryan. Did you seal the unit from the inside with silicone to weather-proof it? I noticed you don't have any type of cover over it.rmills944 said:
If I may make a suggestion on sealing the switches?
Remove the front cover. Then remove the rubber keypad from the cover. Apply silicone sealant to inside of the cover and replace the rubber keypad. This will seal the face of the switch housing. Once the cover is reinstalled onto switch body, use silicone sealant to close the gaps on the back side.
This is how I have done mine, and it seems to be quite effective. I have ridden in torrential downpours for extended periods, with this setup.
Remove the front cover. Then remove the rubber keypad from the cover. Apply silicone sealant to inside of the cover and replace the rubber keypad. This will seal the face of the switch housing. Once the cover is reinstalled onto switch body, use silicone sealant to close the gaps on the back side.
This is how I have done mine, and it seems to be quite effective. I have ridden in torrential downpours for extended periods, with this setup.
I emailed murph on the Covers.....I'll report back.
Until then, my method is proven.
C14lvr
Street Cruiser
Sailor_chic said:
+1. That's how I've waterproofed all of my switches. So far, -0- problems.
I got one of those slip-over rubber covers with my kit, but saw quickly that I didn't like that.
One area those type covers won't seal is on the back, where the wires exit the switch.
The only person I've heard say that this method has not worked for them has been BDF.
He's posted pictures of three switches that were totally corroded.
Still not sure how that happened.
I've ridden through many "toad strangler" rain storms, and never had anything happen like that.
Now, I always park mine under cover and use a waterproof cover.
If I've ridden in a lot of rain, I will wipe it down good with a towel before I cover it for the night.
-and I don't live in the northern climate zone, either. So, that may be a difference?
After several trial and errors with the silicon sealant and the covers, follwed the advice of another member and just smeared a thin film of fishing reel grease on both sides of circuit board- so simple, the contacts always work, no corrosion buildup, no need to cover and seal, is waterproof. Stands up to washing and weather too.
You do not need the Rostra control, an on/off and a on/off/on switch works well too (in instructions)! I did both, installed the Rostra control on the left and also in parallel installed the two switches underneith the throttle on the right and have control with both hands, very convinient.
You do not need the Rostra control, an on/off and a on/off/on switch works well too (in instructions)! I did both, installed the Rostra control on the left and also in parallel installed the two switches underneith the throttle on the right and have control with both hands, very convinient.
What exactly is "fishing reel grease"???? 
Oh, that's grease for a fishing reel!
Bwaaa haaaa! Too funny, Nicole.Sailor_chic said:Oh, that's grease for a fishing reel!
I'm going to install a Rosta in the next day or so. I've done it on other bikes, so I don't think it will be too bad, but I am wondering about opinions on the best place for the servo unit. I have searched and read, and it appears that most place it down low in front, on the left side. Is this the preferred spot?
Rodney, on a C14, a better location may be in front of the gas tank on the right side underneath the fairing, if you don't have a smog control unit there. That's where Nicole located hers.
RodneyW said:
I mounted mine top right of tank about 3 years ago and has worked fine in that location.
Here's a picture I took showing horn compressor location that just happens to show actuator location also.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=63556.msg508925#msg508925
Many have located in this location from years back with good results. Suggest you do some searches for "Rostra" on COG to show you the many details of the install.
Rodney,
Mine is mounted down on the left side of the radiator. This location does not work if you have Canyon Cages though. So if you have them or plan on getting them something to consider. Having the unit tucked in behind the fairing is nice, and leaves room for my Stebel compressor up on the right side under the upper panel!
Matt
Mine is mounted down on the left side of the radiator. This location does not work if you have Canyon Cages though. So if you have them or plan on getting them something to consider. Having the unit tucked in behind the fairing is nice, and leaves room for my Stebel compressor up on the right side under the upper panel!
Matt
C14lvr
Street Cruiser
mattchewn said:
+1. I agree with Matt.
I have my horn mounted front/top/right. So I placed my servo lower left. I remember at the time, I was concerned about heat harming the servo. Almost 4 years now... no problems.
BDF had recommended this location, and told me not to worry, it would be fine there.
It is a tight fit, though. And tip over protection can be an issue. Matt's right.
I prefer this location because then, everything's on the left side. Less to take apart!
If it's on the right side under the black cover, it's easily accessible and no fairings have to be removed.
Rodney, I have pics on my PC at home.
Rodney, I have pics on my PC at home.
Matt,mattchewn said:
Actually it does work, but it's not easy to contort the bracket to hold it there. I have a smog control box to the right of my gas tank and couldn't put the servo there, so I had to go with the lower left radiator location - with the Canyon Cages. Yeah, it's a tight fit.
Sailor_chic said:
That is how I did mine as well. I also gooped up the outside of the plastic mounting plate then slid the top cover over it. It snapped into place and squeezed out all the excess silicone which I then squeegeed off. I used a good quality outdoor UV resistant product that should last a good while.
John
Hey bigfoot, do u happen to have any pics of the unit installed on the left side with the canyon cages installed. I'd like to see how u did it there. I dont wanna hve to move my aux fuse block and relays from the right side if I dont have to..