• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Reviving A bike after it's been setting for the last 3 years.

F

fishdip2227675

Member
Member
So as the tittle lists bike has been setting for 3 years. Before I parked it I did change the oil and rear lube along with a full tank with Sta-bil in it running it from gas station to the house about 1mile. Now with that said its set out in -20 to 112 over the last 3 years so what would every one recommends for getting her back in action other than the obvious like new battery, change the oil and such.
 
Even with Stabil, probably built up some condensation. I would drain as much gas as possible. Oil should be OK if it just sat but could have water.
Check tires, air filter, exhaust for critter homes.
 
Like should I be worried about
ZXtasy said:
Even with Stabil, probably built up some condensation. I would drain as much gas as possible. Oil should be OK if it just sat but could have water.
Check tires, air filter, exhaust for critter homes.
Click to expand...
Do I need to worry about the oil not being in the cylinders for so long?
 
fishdip2227675 said:
Like should I be worried about

Do I need to worry about the oil not being in the cylinders for so long?
Click to expand...

Just crank the engine over with the starter with the fuel pump disconnected a few time to prime the oil system. Many bike have a "flood mode" if you hold the throttle wide open and crank it won't fire off the injectors to help clear a flooded engine, but I'm not 100% certain if this bike does that or not, so it's probably safer to just pull the connector (or fuse) for the fuel pump.
 
Zxtasy mentioned critters. I would pull the side panels and check for nests and chewed wires. Check your coolant reservoir and top off as needed or just go ahead and replace the coolant. Do other stuff mentioned above.
 
Past -20* temps might mean that there could be corrosion from condensation?
So do a look over for corrosion.
Primarily, I'd look the calipers over for corrosion.
After a check, spin each wheel and apply the brakes and release a few times. (to be sure that the brakes are operating smoothly)

another thought; While you're at it, look at the battery posts for corrosion too)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Motion pro has a nice little check valve that they sell for bleeding. Murph has a complete set of speed bleeders that are great!
 
fishdip2227675 said:
Do you have a better brake bleeder then the crappie harbor fright one?
Click to expand...
I have speed bleeders from Murph. Before that I used a device that ran off my air compressor that provided continuous negative pressure to pull brake fluid through my system. I usually let that run and stay at the master cylinder to keep adding fluid. It makes short work of replacing fluid.
 
danmcdermott said:
I have speed bleeders from Murph. Before that I used a device that ran off my air compressor that provided continuous negative pressure to pull brake fluid through my system. I usually let that run and stay at the master cylinder to keep adding fluid. It makes short work of replacing fluid.
Click to expand...
I use the HF tool that hooks to my compressor. It has worked very well for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top