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RoadSmart IV Evaluation
- Thread starter joliver
- Start date
FWIW, I have about 2000 miles on the RS4 tires. My rear looks like it has worn about 1mm.
The feel is nice. I've never had them slip over the winter, but I also dial back my enthusiasm on the right hand for the winter months.
I'm debating between the RS3, the RS4 and the Conti RA3. All three have a rebate going on. Will the RA4 give sufficient additional mileage to justify the price difference between it and the RS3? And I think the Conti RA3 felt smoother.
Chris
The feel is nice. I've never had them slip over the winter, but I also dial back my enthusiasm on the right hand for the winter months.
I'm debating between the RS3, the RS4 and the Conti RA3. All three have a rebate going on. Will the RA4 give sufficient additional mileage to justify the price difference between it and the RS3? And I think the Conti RA3 felt smoother.
Chris
Ian watching all the discussion, not sold 100% on the Angel GT 2-A’s. Like the former feel on acceleration out of a corner but not doing thing the tracking on parallel grooves.
I just did a check on prices and added a column. Prices are current as of today at Revzilla. They should be identical to anywhere else. Supposedly price fixing is illegal, but I've never seen much...if any...price difference.
The data is ranked per Total Cost after any rebates. You'll see Owner Ratings included. The top rated tire is not the Michelin Road 5. And interestingly, the older Pirelli Angel GT has a better owner rating than its replacement.
I've been showing the average price in the past, and showing how much of a difference the tire cost is from that average. I added the column to the right of the difference from the lowest cost tire. My desire on these two columns is to get past the hype and quantitatively see what it cost to get the latest and greatest Dunlop Mutant tire vs the lowest cost tire, another Dunlop. Is the new Mutant tire really $230 better than the RS3? I doubt it. That's actually more than a set of RS3s cost. Probably any of these tires will perform about the same in wet or dry conditions.
Chris
The data is ranked per Total Cost after any rebates. You'll see Owner Ratings included. The top rated tire is not the Michelin Road 5. And interestingly, the older Pirelli Angel GT has a better owner rating than its replacement.
I've been showing the average price in the past, and showing how much of a difference the tire cost is from that average. I added the column to the right of the difference from the lowest cost tire. My desire on these two columns is to get past the hype and quantitatively see what it cost to get the latest and greatest Dunlop Mutant tire vs the lowest cost tire, another Dunlop. Is the new Mutant tire really $230 better than the RS3? I doubt it. That's actually more than a set of RS3s cost. Probably any of these tires will perform about the same in wet or dry conditions.
Chris
The Dunlop Roadsmart 4 at Revzilla is $221 for a 190/55. The price in that chart is for a 180/55. Without checking each line item, it appears the whole chart may be for 180/55. But its still a good comparison and reference when deciding which tire to buy next! I've never even heard of a Mutant until now.
I would disagree with this statement. But that's just my opinion.
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Just make sure you got the C14 size, not my BNW F800GT size.
I could not find a current rebate for them. So I ordered another set of the RS IIs
Just do a search on DuckDuckGo for "Dunlop Motorcycle Tire Rebate". You'll get this website as one of the results. https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/rebate-submission/
$20 per tire. If you have any other billable item on the receipt, they count that as "installation" and you'll get $60 off for two tires.
Just a word of warning. Before ordering your tires, check to see if that store qualifies for the rebate. For instance, I order my tires from Cycle Gear. If I order them online, I get nothing. If I order them through the store, I get the rebate.
Chris
$20 per tire. If you have any other billable item on the receipt, they count that as "installation" and you'll get $60 off for two tires.
Just a word of warning. Before ordering your tires, check to see if that store qualifies for the rebate. For instance, I order my tires from Cycle Gear. If I order them online, I get nothing. If I order them through the store, I get the rebate.
Chris
Daboo, Cycle gear merged with Revzilla (I think).
They honored my purchases from Revzilla and did my tire changes for the discounted price of $25.
Ride safe, Ted
They honored my purchases from Revzilla and did my tire changes for the discounted price of $25.
Ride safe, Ted
Yep! I found that too . So I just ordered another set of the RS 2s which I had not been able to find. Now I have a pair of RS 3s and 2s with a low mileage rear on the shelf. I am paranoid about shortages.
You're paranoid??? I'm paranoid at what I saw on my first Bun Cooler. We were headed to Elk City and we found at a break that one of the riders had the cord showing on his rear tire.
He ended up changing the rear tire in the parking lot that night. One guy was instructing him. And 35 guys were offering "constructive" comments as they watched while imbibing their favorite refreshments.
I don't know which was worse...the thought of the tire going through the cords...
....or the 35 onlookers offering their advice.
Chris
He ended up changing the rear tire in the parking lot that night. One guy was instructing him. And 35 guys were offering "constructive" comments as they watched while imbibing their favorite refreshments.
I don't know which was worse...the thought of the tire going through the cords...
....or the 35 onlookers offering their advice.
Chris
My 2021 C14 came with the T021 Battlaxes, and when hunting for a rear (because of this stupid nail) I finally found one available on Chaparral's website. $173 without any rebate. It'll cost me $65 to have it mounted and balanced. All because of a stupid $0.02 nail.
I had considered the T031's but wasn't sure if the tread pattern differed sufficiently that I'd need to swap out the front tire too.
I had considered the T031's but wasn't sure if the tread pattern differed sufficiently that I'd need to swap out the front tire too.
If I'm reading this right you're are going back with a T021. Best thing you could do is use this for a excuse to dump them & get something better. There is nothing good about the OEM stones.
At the very least plug it & get a few thousand miles of it anyway before spending that $238.00 on another!
At the very least plug it & get a few thousand miles of it anyway before spending that $238.00 on another!
This is a good review of the Roadsmart IV. https://ridermagazine.com/2021/02/13/dunlop-roadsmart-iv-tires-10000-mile-test/
What I like about it, is the review is written by someone who is actually comparing the same tire against what they've ridden with in the past...not just the manufacturer's marketing hype.
I have to say my RSIVs have been great. Mileage wise, I'm down a 32nd of an inch and have 2000 miles on them.
Chris
What I like about it, is the review is written by someone who is actually comparing the same tire against what they've ridden with in the past...not just the manufacturer's marketing hype.
I have to say my RSIVs have been great. Mileage wise, I'm down a 32nd of an inch and have 2000 miles on them.
Chris
I hate to say this, but I agree with Cliff. {Please don't tell anyone I sed that}
I'll add, use one of the rope type plugs {with some tire patch glue on it}.
Ride safe, Ted
From 0 to 2224 miles on this original from the dealership.
Then THIS little bastard showed up, giving me a gratuitous middle finger (and putting lives at risk). :^ \
So I needed to get my nomadic tire transport gig on and run it over to a local shop to change it this morning. Was losing too much air every night and I got sick of having to fill 6 or 7 lbs everyday.
Chaparral had one for $173 and the local dude charged $60 for the swap.
Now I've got fresh skin on my rear end. I told wifey that she needs to rub my backside more frequently now that I've got baby soft skin.
She just rolled her eyes... :^ )
All because, out of the thousands of bikes cruising those highways and byways, a $0.02 rusty nail decided to pick my tire out of the crowd.
Heck, it wasn't even a shiny new nail FFS. Just some crinkly, nasty nail that nobody wanted.
I was considering doing an Archie Bunker tirade, but I'll save it for another time when I have a few IPAs in me. :^ ) LOL AB
Then THIS little bastard showed up, giving me a gratuitous middle finger (and putting lives at risk). :^ \
So I needed to get my nomadic tire transport gig on and run it over to a local shop to change it this morning. Was losing too much air every night and I got sick of having to fill 6 or 7 lbs everyday.
Chaparral had one for $173 and the local dude charged $60 for the swap.
Now I've got fresh skin on my rear end. I told wifey that she needs to rub my backside more frequently now that I've got baby soft skin.
She just rolled her eyes... :^ )
All because, out of the thousands of bikes cruising those highways and byways, a $0.02 rusty nail decided to pick my tire out of the crowd.
Heck, it wasn't even a shiny new nail FFS. Just some crinkly, nasty nail that nobody wanted.
I was considering doing an Archie Bunker tirade, but I'll save it for another time when I have a few IPAs in me. :^ ) LOL AB
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2224 miles and you haven't wore the tits off the sides?
Ya "really" shoulda gone to Arkansas with us.
Ride safe, Ted
Ya "really" shoulda gone to Arkansas with us.
Ride safe, Ted
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IKR ?!?! Wouldn't have done very well for very long in the twisties with that rusty middle finger stuck dead center though. LOL !! :^ )
Ok, you have until Oct. to get ready..
We're goin' again in Oct. and may do a practice run before that. {hint hint}
Ride safe, Ted
We're goin' again in Oct. and may do a practice run before that. {hint hint}
Ride safe, Ted
Ted, Tire looks like it was just mounted. Give the guy a break.
LOL Tim, he wasn't wrong about the nipples on the dealer's original delivered tire. I'm keeping this to plug and have as a spare. It doesn't even have a flat spot on the middle of the tread yet. :^ )
I hadn't even gotten down on it yet as I wanted/needed to get past break-in. I'd like to think that I'll have this bike until the day my number gets called by the big guy upstairs, so being gentle in the first 2k miles +/- helps make sure all those expensive parts stay within spec for as long as possible.
Got the tires today and drove 165 km / 100 miles. For much of the first 100 km I drove past the road construction for the Site C Dam so sand, trucks, and construction speed zones. The last 60 km or so I got to push them just a little bit and them seemed awesome.
Also changed the fork oil so that may have made some difference as well.
Today was my first spirited ride on the new RoadSmart IVs and at this point in time, I give them full marks. Seemed flawless. Traffic was nearly non-existent and the weather decent. After a few twists and turns it was obvious the bike wanted to exceed what is considered wise and prudent.
I will be watching to see mileage and long term how they hold up for you. Any 2-up riding.
We are using with continuous spirit the Angel GT2 A-Specs, still holding up fairly strong after about 3,600 miles. Traction still top notch although visually getting some flat spots both in center and mid radius...
1000 KM /620 miles Check-in.
Not much new to report, I still love the tires. Did a bit on wet roads. I never push it on corners with wet roads but at a mild brisk pace she seemed stable.
Bambi decided she wanted to be on the other side of the road.It was not much of emergency but as no one was behind me I did a emergency stop for practice. The wet roads did not seem to affect the stopping power significantly.
ABS =
Not much new to report, I still love the tires. Did a bit on wet roads. I never push it on corners with wet roads but at a mild brisk pace she seemed stable.
Bambi decided she wanted to be on the other side of the road.It was not much of emergency but as no one was behind me I did a emergency stop for practice. The wet roads did not seem to affect the stopping power significantly.
ABS =
I put on the Roadsmarts before the Spyder ride last fall. THey replaced the Angel Spec As. Reaaly stable through the curves down in Missouri last falll and held up OK. Not as ling lived as the Spec As and much less than the PR4s I have run for years. I replaced those RSs with a new set of PR4s before heading down to the Hocking Hills for Memorial Day as The Roadsmarts were getting pretty worn.
I think that is the order at this point. I keep coming back to the Michelins over the course of 90k+ on the 08 and now 75k on the 13.
In order of driveability and wear along with value, my personal ranks of the last few sets. Tried several other sets but those are my top 3 so far.. YMMV
PR4
Spec A
PR3
Roadsmart
I think that is the order at this point. I keep coming back to the Michelins over the course of 90k+ on the 08 and now 75k on the 13.
In order of driveability and wear along with value, my personal ranks of the last few sets. Tried several other sets but those are my top 3 so far.. YMMV
PR4
Spec A
PR3
Roadsmart
Which Roadsmart? I have used 3 and now running 4's. I felt that my RS 3's outlasted my Angel Spec A. However, it is just in my head as I did not keep track of the mileage.
The RS 3’s another 537 miles yesterday. ~340-350 miles on the super slab; ~180-190 miles twisted heaven.
Total now on the clock ~2200 miles - still feel good; strong. Little notchy last night on way home in medium turns / super slab but nothing terrible. We run air pressure on HWY 43F / 45R, then twisties 42F / 43R.
Not quite as smooth as expected but gripping great and feathering not near as bad as Michelins - at least for us. We ride 2-up 99% of time and like to pretend pretend we’re attempting escape velocity through the mountain twisties or attempting time warp travel occasionally on the Super Slab!
Total now on the clock ~2200 miles - still feel good; strong. Little notchy last night on way home in medium turns / super slab but nothing terrible. We run air pressure on HWY 43F / 45R, then twisties 42F / 43R.
Not quite as smooth as expected but gripping great and feathering not near as bad as Michelins - at least for us. We ride 2-up 99% of time and like to pretend pretend we’re attempting escape velocity through the mountain twisties or attempting time warp travel occasionally on the Super Slab!
Curious to know if you find the road a bit bumpy at those pressures. I keep mine at 41 front and 43 rear, but then we don’t have all that many twisties here in Houston metro.
Good Point - The amount of miles we travel, at extended high speed, extra couple PSI 2-up seems to help stave off the large flat spot for at least a few hundred miles.
So In the twisties no.. on the open road a good possibility.
Red Fox we have about 3900 miles on the RSIV and so far these are the best looking, evenly wearing tires for us. 95% 2-UP with 80% highway miles and 20% playing in the twisties.
Rain, Heat, Tar Snakes, road siping / grated bridges, heavy braking, heavy accelerating all good and excellent handling in the twisties (smooth/ quick turn-in, easy exit).
Red Fox let us know how your thoughts.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Rain, Heat, Tar Snakes, road siping / grated bridges, heavy braking, heavy accelerating all good and excellent handling in the twisties (smooth/ quick turn-in, easy exit).
Red Fox let us know how your thoughts.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
I now have 5000 km / 3100 miles on RS4s. They look and handle like new.
When I got the tires installed I also got the fork oil changed. The difference in handling in corners is notable.
Just got home from a 340 km loop and feeling very positive about my bike.
Info not posted elsewhere in thread. Just received RS4's in 190/50/17 size, have these observations on what will be my first Dunlops ever run:
Front tread depth 6/32" (deeper than my prior Avon Storm 3's),
Rear tread depth 9/32" (barely less than the 9.5/32" of the Avons),
Front tire appears totally rounded profile, much like my last Michelin tire profile; whereas the Avon Storm has a slightly triangulated profile - which I always credited with its effortlessly turning into the corner (this was a handling plus).
Not yet mounted...
Front tread depth 6/32" (deeper than my prior Avon Storm 3's),
Rear tread depth 9/32" (barely less than the 9.5/32" of the Avons),
Front tire appears totally rounded profile, much like my last Michelin tire profile; whereas the Avon Storm has a slightly triangulated profile - which I always credited with its effortlessly turning into the corner (this was a handling plus).
Not yet mounted...
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I was just thinking about measuring our tread depth tonight (not lucky smooth to rack up the mileage this weekend) ~4,200 miles / smiles after this afternoon.
At 5300 km / 3300 miles I had to put the bike away. On Sunday we got a snow warning and they were correct. Put the bike away Monday afternoon and the snow came on Tuesday morning.
The tires still seem as good as new. I am very pleased with them. I will keep reporting on the until I have to replace them.
The tires still seem as good as new. I am very pleased with them. I will keep reporting on the until I have to replace them.
I've had a couple sets of the RoadSmart IIIs and I have the RoadSmart IV mounted on my bike now. I doubt I'll ever buy the RS IV again. I just don't see an advantage of the more expensive IV over the IIIs.
Handling does not seem to be any better, and may be even worse. It seems like the RS IV tire wants to follow road imperfections. The IVs actually made me hesitant in going into corners. I remember the RS IIIs slipping once, but that was probably my fault. I turned at a light under an overpass to get on the freeway and there probably was some slick stuff that collected there...and I gave it the gas like it was in July, not November. My bad.
I'm estimating that at the current number of miles for the tires and the amount of tread left, that they will give me just about the same tread life that the RSIIIs did.
Chris
Handling does not seem to be any better, and may be even worse. It seems like the RS IV tire wants to follow road imperfections. The IVs actually made me hesitant in going into corners. I remember the RS IIIs slipping once, but that was probably my fault. I turned at a light under an overpass to get on the freeway and there probably was some slick stuff that collected there...and I gave it the gas like it was in July, not November. My bad.
I'm estimating that at the current number of miles for the tires and the amount of tread left, that they will give me just about the same tread life that the RSIIIs did.
Chris
This is the behavior I've experienced on every Dunlop tire I've owned, and when running Dunlops I've had the back end literally come all the way out on me on several occasions and on multiple bikes over the years. I've never had it happen on any other brand like it does on Dunlops. I really think they just don't use enough silica in their compounds.
I blame my right wrist for the slippage though. I was stopped at a stop light, waiting to turn left and get on the freeway onramp. The light changed. I could've merely taken the on ramp like I normally do in the winter. But this was just as the cool wet weather was starting and I gave it one last highly enthusiastic twist of the throttle while turning. That area probably picks up a lot of oil, and I caught it.
I don't blame the Dunlop RSIIIs. I blame me. And for the rest of the winter, I had no issues.
Chris
I don't blame the Dunlop RSIIIs. I blame me. And for the rest of the winter, I had no issues.
Chris
My experience with the rs3 and rs 4 is like what Fred said. I tried the 3 last year and thought it was a decent tire but it would break loose in the wet. So I just now tried a 4 since they're supposed to be better. Well they are no better in the wet. But mileage is good. My average rear miles is 3500. This rs4 is at 5000 and not unsafe. But I won't buy any more.
Thanks for the verification. I was on the fence with trying this one but I had the same experience with the 3's in the wet so I won't waste my time on the 4s. With those kinds of miles I got to assume you change your own tires. The miles I put on in the rain demands sure feet.
I mounted the RS4's and got a single 200 mile ride - my riding buddy lead a three bike trip at a moderate pace through good roads. I thought the tires handled very well. I then got covid (no sweat, thanks to booster shot) and other things in life happened ..., so haven't given them more miles
. Initial RS4 impression is good, though. Do appreciate your recommendation, 2andblue.
Because of a family issue, I was not able to do much riding since I installed these tires. Well, that has passed and I am able to do more riding. The tires now have 13,700 km (8500 miles). They served me well. Coming home the other day on a wet road it felt like the back tire slipped a bit. Not 100% it was not my imagination but switching them out on Friday. This is an about 2000 km more than I usually get so they get top marks in my book.
Replacing with another set Road Smart IV's. As soon as I get back from holidays I am going on another tour. I have done one 8 day tour and plan on doing a couple more this summer. Hope to wear the tires out by summer's end.
In the goodie bag at the National there is a $100.00 rebate if you buy two Dunlop RS4's along with other Dunlop tires unfortunately not including the RS3's. It's good through the rest of the year. I am going to take advantage of that when my RS3's wear out soon. RS3's are great tires also and the price is very hard to beat!
Ted and I have been running the RS2's and RS3's and the handling has been amazing. As soon as my current set wears out I will try the RS4's. Of course our best mileage numbers are rarely more then 3,000 on any tires we try, but that's not the tires fault. Those Arkansas twisties shred tires pretty quick.
Clarification: Jim and I are considered lowly trailer guys by some of ya.
We understand why some of y'all may dislike our approach, but we're at the point that we prefer to trailer to an event and then enjoy riding the area. NOT by doing miles and miles of straight roads getting there.
The result of this is; we don't get good mileage out of our tires. (because almost all of our miles are done in the twisties).
ie; Our tires are NOT worn out in the center when we replace them. The edges are worn.......
<contented smiles>
Of the tires we've tried, we really liked the RS II's and III's.
Good handling, no slip, even wear.
Ride safe, Ted
We understand why some of y'all may dislike our approach, but we're at the point that we prefer to trailer to an event and then enjoy riding the area. NOT by doing miles and miles of straight roads getting there.
The result of this is; we don't get good mileage out of our tires. (because almost all of our miles are done in the twisties).
ie; Our tires are NOT worn out in the center when we replace them. The edges are worn.......
<contented smiles>
Of the tires we've tried, we really liked the RS II's and III's.
Good handling, no slip, even wear.
Ride safe, Ted
Ted you guys ever try the 4’s?Clarification: Jim and I are considered lowly trailer guys by some of ya.
We understand why some of y'all may dislike our approach, but we're at the point that we prefer to trailer to an event and then enjoy riding the area. NOT by doing miles and miles of straight roads getting there.
The result of this is; we don't get good mileage out of our tires. (because almost all of our miles are done in the twisties).
ie; Our tires are NOT worn out in the center when we replace them. The edges are worn.......
<contented smiles>
Of the tires we've tried, we really liked the RS II's and III's.
Good handling, no slip, even wear.
Ride safe, Ted
I found the 4’s were better than the 3’s for grip. Although as you can see I only rode the 3’s for a little over 1/3 of their life before trying the 4’s and haven’t gone back.
Also @connie_rider we lost track of this one - I still have a set of 3’s with probably 60% life, you want them? Pay shipping and you got ‘em.
Let me know if interested in the tires - if Ted taps out the offer goes for anyone else as well, other than shipping you get over half life in a set of Dunlop Roadsmart III tires, then maybe you’ll try a IV and can contribute to the evaluation.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
No, we haven't tried the IV's.
We originally went to the II's because they (Dunlop) started building them with the newest tire compound and charged little. ie; A set of tires for approx. $200. (I think I bought 4 sets)
We've only used front III's as we could no longer get front II's. (and could still buy rear II's).
Unlike other tires, the Dunlop's wore evenly without feathering at the tread edges.
I now have Metzler Z-8's on the bike. (Per Freds suggestion, I decided to try them in Oregon / I DID like them).
They worked well, stuck good, and the wear seems to be better than the Dunlop's so I may get more than 3000 miles on this set. (maybe).
NOTE: I only have 1000 miles on them so far.
After Oregon they are worn edge to edge... <contented smile>
On your III's; It sounds like a deal for someone that does long highway miles, or someone that wants to try the Dunlop's before committing to the IV's.
I'll have to pass on them because @ 60-70% I'd only get about 1500-1800 miles on them before another change.
ie; I'd rather start with new as I'm tired of changing tires.
Ride safe, Ted
We originally went to the II's because they (Dunlop) started building them with the newest tire compound and charged little. ie; A set of tires for approx. $200. (I think I bought 4 sets)
We've only used front III's as we could no longer get front II's. (and could still buy rear II's).
Unlike other tires, the Dunlop's wore evenly without feathering at the tread edges.
I now have Metzler Z-8's on the bike. (Per Freds suggestion, I decided to try them in Oregon / I DID like them).
They worked well, stuck good, and the wear seems to be better than the Dunlop's so I may get more than 3000 miles on this set. (maybe).
NOTE: I only have 1000 miles on them so far.
After Oregon they are worn edge to edge... <contented smile>
On your III's; It sounds like a deal for someone that does long highway miles, or someone that wants to try the Dunlop's before committing to the IV's.
I'll have to pass on them because @ 60-70% I'd only get about 1500-1800 miles on them before another change.
ie; I'd rather start with new as I'm tired of changing tires.
Ride safe, Ted
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Well, the way I ride I got 9,000 on the front and 11,000 on the rears with the III. Mostly straight 2 lane and interstate.
With the IV so far have 10,000 on the front still has plenty left and 7,000 on the rear. Put 5800 miles going out to the National then drove back through CA down to Phoenix through Arkansas back to Iowa. Only issue was someone didn't like my bike in CA and they tipped it over in the motel parking lot when I was asleep. Broke the right mirror and mirror bracket. So have some work to do to fix everything.
With the IV so far have 10,000 on the front still has plenty left and 7,000 on the rear. Put 5800 miles going out to the National then drove back through CA down to Phoenix through Arkansas back to Iowa. Only issue was someone didn't like my bike in CA and they tipped it over in the motel parking lot when I was asleep. Broke the right mirror and mirror bracket. So have some work to do to fix everything.
Sounds like you have tip over bars installed or we would be hearing about more damage. Hope that's the case anyway. It's not a good way to start the day looking at your bike laying on the ground.
Any security video at the hotel parking lot? I would be livid.
Had someone try to start the bike, steal the bike or otherwise take the ‘stovetop’ key out at a rest area. They bent the key and now it will not come out at all….
My latest on this set of IV’s we have ~8,200 on our rear and ~11,000 on the front. Both have just started touching some of the wear bars and are off the bike for fresh IV’s to be mounted. This is a record for us, having never gotten this much mileage out of a set of tires on the C-14 and the performance of the tire has not changed at all - really like this one!
Wayne, Carol & Blue
I'll add my .02 per Ted's request. Like Ted, I bought some RS2's because they were cheap & I'm cheap, not to mention I go through a lot of tires. I also put the RS3's on front like he mentioned.
I put this set on & then rode down to MS to tell my mom Happy Mother's Day, for a total of 760 miles. Then rode out to the Nationals for a total of 7,015 miles. So all total I've got 7,775 miles on these tires.
The most mileage I have ever got. It was a lot of highway, but a lot of twisties out west. I have one more set of these so we'll see how they fare.
I put this set on & then rode down to MS to tell my mom Happy Mother's Day, for a total of 760 miles. Then rode out to the Nationals for a total of 7,015 miles. So all total I've got 7,775 miles on these tires.
The most mileage I have ever got. It was a lot of highway, but a lot of twisties out west. I have one more set of these so we'll see how they fare.
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IV’s even better mileage and grip! Bit of a premium, however I think worth it.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Damn you guys get a lot of mileage out of tires! I've seldom seen more than 5-6K out of a rear tire (generally I run Michelin Pilot Road 4GT , 5GT , etc. or Road 6 GT). I'm a small rider (155 lbs. soaking wet), I check my tire pressure nearly every ride, don't put a bunch of weight on the bike, and almost never ride two up.
I guess, the roads I ride might have something to do with it! Shaniko, OR to Fossil, OR is my general playground, with many other nearly equally twisty and sweeper roads all around my area.
I'll take low mileage and high smileage any time.
Another favorite section of road is Service Creek, OR to Kimberly, OR. Much rubber left on the asphalt on that section of roadway.
I guess, the roads I ride might have something to do with it! Shaniko, OR to Fossil, OR is my general playground, with many other nearly equally twisty and sweeper roads all around my area.
I'll take low mileage and high smileage any time.
Another favorite section of road is Service Creek, OR to Kimberly, OR. Much rubber left on the asphalt on that section of roadway.
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Your mileage is similar to when we ran the suite of Michelin tires.
Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart IV is the first tire that consistently delivers 6,500 - 7,500 high performance miles.
Wayne
I may test another tire since most of my riding is on dry, and warm pavement. Not too concerned with wet/cold performance... until I get caught in it. It's worth the experiment to try another tire. As soon as I burn through my existing Road 6GT's, I may give the Dunlop maker a try.
I get the same out of the 3s but I am not 2 up.
I never did switch to the GT 2's for that very reason. Those two axial grooves had more than their fair share of negative comments from users. I did love the 1st Gen GT's though. I think I once got 12K on a rear. Not a lot of interstate miles on that tire though as I recall. Mostly canyon carving so the whole tire was getting used.
Hmmm - Let's get this diagnosis going:
- Air Pressure - I know you said not an issue, what cold is the cold tire pressure?
- Any changes in braking technique from previous tires / previous miles?
- Any changes in road surface with same technique applied to previous tires / previous miles?
- Was this tire subjected to repeat late brake application beyond the point of corner entry?
- Possibly steep downhill braking?
- Harder center compound is standing out from the softer compound(s) that has been worn away, signals heavy side forces.
- Any roads near you with severe pavement depressions (deep ruts/ channels) from heavy, repeated traffic or soft base/ tar?
- Geometry - I know you said suspension is fine but for good measure...
- Are your forks stock? What is your fork sag?
- Is rear suspension stock? What is your rear sag?
- Is the rear raised or front lowered?
- Let's see the rear tire please?
If I had to offer a SWAG, it would be a combination of factors with bullet #4 the most likely culprit. Possibly bullet #4 enhanced or accelerated by a more porous road surface that the machine normally sees?
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Outsider FJR rider here, with a similar tire issue. I was searching for unusual wear patterns on the Dunlop RS IVs and came across this thread. I just changed out to my 2nd set of RS IVs (RS III before these) with just under 13000 miles on them. I don't recall when I started developing the "bumps" on the left half of the tire. I did not have any vibrations or wobbling from it unless deaccelerating down through the 40's, nor did my this happen with my first set.
I'm wondering if Dunlop may have changed something in the manufacturing process? The ones I just took off were installed in 2022, I don't have the date code, sorry. The rear tire wore evenly. Bike specs: 18 FJR A, 31,000 miles, stock front forks, TFX rear shock, tire pressures maintained at a consistant f40/r42 psi (typical for FJR's), no top box or 2-up riding. Mostly highway riding speeds in the HOT SE Texas area. I'm only able to link the images and hope this works:
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/unusual-tire-wear.181921/
This was taken just before it was changed. The bumps are the oval white areas on the tire ( from concrete dust on garage the floor). Notice the part of the tire next to the bump isn't even contacting the ground. It looks like the right side is starting to do the same thing.
Using 2andblues questions
1. f40/r42, typical for an FJR
2. No
3. No
4. No. I mainly use engine torque and front brake as primary and the rear brake for trail braking. (FJR's do have linked F/R brakes), no downhill, saddlebags usually have about 15-20 lbs work junk in them.
5. Yes. I have one section of road about 5-miles long that is absolute garbage. Though I can swerve around most of the potholes and torn up roadway. The areas I can't I do slow way down for.
6. Didn't measure sag. The bike is level though.
7. Rear tire wore evenly, no issues.
Despite the front tire issue, I stuck with the RS IV's (great price at local dealer and $60 rebate right now). Great tire that has always stuck down to the edges without slipping and good enough for me in the wet. I probably could have made another 500-1000 miles out of this set, but was heading out on a road trip.
I sent an email to: consumeraffairs@dunlopmotorcycletires.com with images of both tires, asking them for their thoughts on what is going on. Will update when they respond.
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Starting to form a theory of front tire distortion, rode the Concours seven thousand miles with Bridgestone BT-023 and the front showed no signs of uneven thread, just worn to the bars!
Remember dismounting and cursing how stiff the sidewalls on those were.
Next set were Road-smart 3 at around seventeen hundred it started to appear uneven, bumped cold pressure to 42, got worse, change fork oil, no change, changed my daily commute roads, no change it continued to worsen.
Replaced it with version 4 and at two thousand miles it started appearing uneven and worsened from spring into southern summer.
Over the past winter had Cogent rebuild the suspension, installed all new bearings in the rear, installed a fresh set of continental Contiroad, approaching three thousand miles, seven deals gap and Maggie Valley trips and they too are starting to show uneven patterns in the front.
it’s too bad cause I was really starting to like them especially wet weather traction was confident.
Next set of tires here shortly will be a set of Bridgestone's for the stiff sidewalls and go one step up and try a set of T-32 in the GT spec.
What I’m thinking is the Previous Bridgestones sidewall are very stiff and mitigated distortion during braking and turning.
FYI - my riding style is just rider and road trips consist of a backpack strapped to the passenger section with a clothing change and toothbrush.
Remember dismounting and cursing how stiff the sidewalls on those were.
Next set were Road-smart 3 at around seventeen hundred it started to appear uneven, bumped cold pressure to 42, got worse, change fork oil, no change, changed my daily commute roads, no change it continued to worsen.
Replaced it with version 4 and at two thousand miles it started appearing uneven and worsened from spring into southern summer.
Over the past winter had Cogent rebuild the suspension, installed all new bearings in the rear, installed a fresh set of continental Contiroad, approaching three thousand miles, seven deals gap and Maggie Valley trips and they too are starting to show uneven patterns in the front.
it’s too bad cause I was really starting to like them especially wet weather traction was confident.
Next set of tires here shortly will be a set of Bridgestone's for the stiff sidewalls and go one step up and try a set of T-32 in the GT spec.
What I’m thinking is the Previous Bridgestones sidewall are very stiff and mitigated distortion during braking and turning.
FYI - my riding style is just rider and road trips consist of a backpack strapped to the passenger section with a clothing change and toothbrush.
Adding some info to the discussion. For the most part, I'm not seeing the unusual wear problems on my RS IVs. I have a slight lift on the leading edge of the sipes on the front with no handling issues. Nothing like the pics from andydude or thegrouch5892. I now have right at 5,700 miles and I do A LOT of 2-up riding (at least 80% of those miles), and still have good tread life remaining. I run standard 42/42 psi. Front and rear have the same 3022 date codes.
These tires have been from Minnesota to Arkansas and back, 2-up the whole way with my wife's entire closet along, plus a lot of additional excursions around southern MN and WI (almost none of it on super slab). These went on at the same time that I replaced the rear shock with a Penske 8975, sprung for 2-up. Front forks are stock, but I replaced the fork oil at the same time with Bel Ray 7w (up from the recommended 5w - Note: viscosity on Bel Ray 7w is only slightly higher than the recommended Kawasaki G5, and lower than other 7w fork oils). Checked sag and set for 2-up riding.
My only complaint is that I don't get the same confidence in the wet compared to Michelin Road 5GT (haven't tried the 6GT yet). I'll mellow out in the rain to get this amount of mileage. Very happy with dry performance.
These tires have been from Minnesota to Arkansas and back, 2-up the whole way with my wife's entire closet along, plus a lot of additional excursions around southern MN and WI (almost none of it on super slab). These went on at the same time that I replaced the rear shock with a Penske 8975, sprung for 2-up. Front forks are stock, but I replaced the fork oil at the same time with Bel Ray 7w (up from the recommended 5w - Note: viscosity on Bel Ray 7w is only slightly higher than the recommended Kawasaki G5, and lower than other 7w fork oils). Checked sag and set for 2-up riding.
My only complaint is that I don't get the same confidence in the wet compared to Michelin Road 5GT (haven't tried the 6GT yet). I'll mellow out in the rain to get this amount of mileage. Very happy with dry performance.
Very interesting observations of odd tire wear. I have yet to see anything resembling this wear pattern on the sets of Sportmax Roadsmart IV tires I have run thus far (3 or 4)...
Our FJR friend (thegrouch5892) had nearly 13K miles on a single set of of these tires, WOW! My tires are ready for replacement especially the rear at 7K - 7.5K miles max. Other brands / models were well less than 7K miles... I then see others having this patterning showing up at 2K miles OR less...! Again definitely not an issue for me - yet. It has been since 2022 (2023 we relocated and it was a lost year) that we put new rubber on. Now finding the front tire near impossible to find, was there a problem and pulled from shelves...?!
I will need new rubber after this weekend's Vermont Green Mountain and North Ride - not excited about trying a new brand at a trip / event - also not at all interested in seeing a problem like this. If I can find a set of the IV's I will put them on again and see what happens.
@thegrouch5892 Please share anything you hear back from Dunlop - give them a follow up poke if they do not respond shortly.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Our FJR friend (thegrouch5892) had nearly 13K miles on a single set of of these tires, WOW! My tires are ready for replacement especially the rear at 7K - 7.5K miles max. Other brands / models were well less than 7K miles... I then see others having this patterning showing up at 2K miles OR less...! Again definitely not an issue for me - yet. It has been since 2022 (2023 we relocated and it was a lost year) that we put new rubber on. Now finding the front tire near impossible to find, was there a problem and pulled from shelves...?!
I will need new rubber after this weekend's Vermont Green Mountain and North Ride - not excited about trying a new brand at a trip / event - also not at all interested in seeing a problem like this. If I can find a set of the IV's I will put them on again and see what happens.
@thegrouch5892 Please share anything you hear back from Dunlop - give them a follow up poke if they do not respond shortly.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Hey Wayne, @2andblue with all due respect, you point out some good things, but can't blame a tire manufacturer or a certain model of tire or bike.
Cupping or scalloping last night I did a Google search and it turned up thousands of pages about motorcycle front tire cupping.
Spreading it from every form of motorcycle brand and vocation, Sport bikes, Touring bikes, Harleys, and BMW adventure bikes with Knobby tires, one exception I found was Motorcycle Road racing slicks, if forces and tire distortion play a major role how can slicks with ultra A soft compounds escape the forces and why?
No Thread pattern to distort!
Made phone calls and reached out to Industry hotel bar friends and picked their brains, mostly everyone came back and said it is the tire doing its job, the harder you brake, corner, and road conditions cupping is going to happen.
It is normal wear pattern on motorcycle tires that always follow the tread pattern. It is not a sign that you have bad suspension parts, although a friend at EPM Wilbers let me know too much rebound can and does accelerate cupping.
Your tire is indeed doing what it was meant to do by gripping the road making turns, cupping develops within the side wear bands of a leaned motorcycle, once a tire starts cupping there is no way to reverse or stop it.
Extreme forces when the bike leaned into a turn or heavy braking distorts the contact patch take a good look you can see cupping follows the tread pattern.
The leading edge of the tread does not flex much as it grips the road, and the rubber is scuffing off the tire in that area causing a depression. As the tire rotates, the pressure moves to the trailing edge of the tread pattern where the tread flexes more causing less scuffing so less material is removed off the tire.
Guess we expect a tire to stay perfectly round under force, of course, it’s ridiculous, think of each separated piece of thread pattern as individual "blocks" or "islands" of tread they are squirming and deforming due to the forces applied to them during cornering and braking. When this deforming takes place, the wear could never be even.
The more heaver the machine matches a more aggressive rider or braking , the more complex the cupping pattern will be. Along with the softer the compound of the tire, the sooner tire cupping develops.
Radial tires are more prone to cupping than bias ply because the compound of radials is softer. One of the reasons was something we never noticed in the 80s or 90s.
Low tire pressure will exacerbate this wear pattern due to excessive distortion of the side walls and tire thread. Improper balance has nothing to do with cupping on a motorcycle tire. Improper balance will merely cause your bike to vibrate within certain specific speed ranges.
People ride differently, I commute every day, winter, spring, and summer, weekends in the Mountains meeting friends with friends, and usually ride any road other than the Dragon.
Up in the Mountains most times no cars or police it is my time to enjoy myself, wide open until I see the form of Jesus appear across my helmet face screen and only then grab the brakes hard, now I know what that rumble is coming from the front, its the tire distorting and biting the road always thought it was the brake pads making noise due to the rotor cooling holes.
The next set of tires will be the GT version, to think and treat the Concours 14 as a traditional Sports touring bike, At least in my mind Ducati ST with wet weights of 450 pounds or the GSXS 1000 GT would be understating, The Concours is 680 pounds in stock form, pretty sure with non-OEM seats, Bars, Shields, and all the other comfort and touring, 720 or more is normal for some
Cupping or scalloping last night I did a Google search and it turned up thousands of pages about motorcycle front tire cupping.
Spreading it from every form of motorcycle brand and vocation, Sport bikes, Touring bikes, Harleys, and BMW adventure bikes with Knobby tires, one exception I found was Motorcycle Road racing slicks, if forces and tire distortion play a major role how can slicks with ultra A soft compounds escape the forces and why?
No Thread pattern to distort!
Made phone calls and reached out to Industry hotel bar friends and picked their brains, mostly everyone came back and said it is the tire doing its job, the harder you brake, corner, and road conditions cupping is going to happen.
It is normal wear pattern on motorcycle tires that always follow the tread pattern. It is not a sign that you have bad suspension parts, although a friend at EPM Wilbers let me know too much rebound can and does accelerate cupping.
Your tire is indeed doing what it was meant to do by gripping the road making turns, cupping develops within the side wear bands of a leaned motorcycle, once a tire starts cupping there is no way to reverse or stop it.
Extreme forces when the bike leaned into a turn or heavy braking distorts the contact patch take a good look you can see cupping follows the tread pattern.
The leading edge of the tread does not flex much as it grips the road, and the rubber is scuffing off the tire in that area causing a depression. As the tire rotates, the pressure moves to the trailing edge of the tread pattern where the tread flexes more causing less scuffing so less material is removed off the tire.
Guess we expect a tire to stay perfectly round under force, of course, it’s ridiculous, think of each separated piece of thread pattern as individual "blocks" or "islands" of tread they are squirming and deforming due to the forces applied to them during cornering and braking. When this deforming takes place, the wear could never be even.
The more heaver the machine matches a more aggressive rider or braking , the more complex the cupping pattern will be. Along with the softer the compound of the tire, the sooner tire cupping develops.
Radial tires are more prone to cupping than bias ply because the compound of radials is softer. One of the reasons was something we never noticed in the 80s or 90s.
Low tire pressure will exacerbate this wear pattern due to excessive distortion of the side walls and tire thread. Improper balance has nothing to do with cupping on a motorcycle tire. Improper balance will merely cause your bike to vibrate within certain specific speed ranges.
People ride differently, I commute every day, winter, spring, and summer, weekends in the Mountains meeting friends with friends, and usually ride any road other than the Dragon.
Up in the Mountains most times no cars or police it is my time to enjoy myself, wide open until I see the form of Jesus appear across my helmet face screen and only then grab the brakes hard, now I know what that rumble is coming from the front, its the tire distorting and biting the road always thought it was the brake pads making noise due to the rotor cooling holes.
The next set of tires will be the GT version, to think and treat the Concours 14 as a traditional Sports touring bike, At least in my mind Ducati ST with wet weights of 450 pounds or the GSXS 1000 GT would be understating, The Concours is 680 pounds in stock form, pretty sure with non-OEM seats, Bars, Shields, and all the other comfort and touring, 720 or more is normal for some
Really good explanation, thanks!
Have had the RS4s for almost 4,000 miles this season and love them. Pulled my bike out of the garage and loaded for a ride across the state on Sunday. Just before leaving. I looked over the rear tire while she was on the center stand and noticed a metallic glint coming from the tire. This is when the embedded nail or metal piece was found.
Pulled my packed inner bags out for a drive to my son’s. Since I am leaving for a ride to Pennsylvania this Saturday, I ordered another tire to make her whole again. Maybe I get lucky and will find that the piece did not pierce the tire carcass. I will then have 1/2 of next year’s set.
Will inspect when home Thursday,
Fun with machines!
Rob from Zeeland, MI
Pulled my packed inner bags out for a drive to my son’s. Since I am leaving for a ride to Pennsylvania this Saturday, I ordered another tire to make her whole again. Maybe I get lucky and will find that the piece did not pierce the tire carcass. I will then have 1/2 of next year’s set.
Will inspect when home Thursday,
Fun with machines!
Rob from Zeeland, MI
Totally agree, the reason more of my questions above are around rider preference, behavior and then any sort of major road differences in applying said.
I will once again mount another set of these tires and see if I experience the above detailed odd wear indicating something has changed.
Obviously cannot conclude (and even then there are many variables) in advance, however - I am expecting no change in the wear from the previous sets of this same tire, as long as my riding habits stay the same.
Would be interesting to know if some of these reports are first time owners of the Dunlop RS IV and what was the previous tire and experience with those.
Lastly, I keep coming back to bullet #4 above, how much braking in the corner is causing the distortion and subsequent wear. I rarely brake in a corner, ever and then where I do it’s a momentary minor adjustment most times and as mentioned do not see this wear.
More to come I’m sure, but agree this is most likely a tire doing its job under heavy force. As with practically everything - match the tool to the job, if someone’s riding style demands a different tire then the change needs to be made.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
My riding style is what consumes my front tires, sometimes use the rear just to settle the chassis.
You can also error by running lower air pressure, of course it has the benefits of more traction, always believe the recommended is just a starting point for tuning your handling.
But as soon as the cupping starts people will inflate to the recommendation, but cupping continues, once it has the pattern is permanently irreversible.
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I follow and agree on the cupping.
1 issue I have is I get flat/triangular wear on my front tires.
ie; As the tire wears it looks almost triangular with a flat area on the sides.
NOTE:
I do little point to point riding.
Most of my riding is in the twisties and while there I use a lot of the tire surface.
Seldom have a flat area in the center.
So, what causes the flat appearance on the sides?
Ride safe, Ted
1 issue I have is I get flat/triangular wear on my front tires.
ie; As the tire wears it looks almost triangular with a flat area on the sides.
NOTE:
I do little point to point riding.
Most of my riding is in the twisties and while there I use a lot of the tire surface.
Seldom have a flat area in the center.
So, what causes the flat appearance on the sides?
Ride safe, Ted
Fun! :-D
I used Googles Chat GPT AI and asked
“seldom have a flat area in the Center” the response I received back is below
It’s just Ted riding fast and smooth showing off and hurting the Egos of those younger guys in the twistiest part of mountains, it’s been reported as he blows past them they hear screams from under the helmet, How ya like Daddy now!!
Well, you have obviously never met Ted to know how full of himself he already is. He had oversized doors installed in his new house just so he could get in & out because of his big head.
Now he'll probably have to have a wall taken out & a barn door installed because his head swelled so much!
Cliff,,, Hey!! I resemble that remark!
I though 10' doors were normal?
NOTE: I ride with the group. I don't pass. Always ride slow and sedate. Never speed.
Like to cruise in the straights, go to the turns, and then play in them.
Was being serious, why does the tire wear a flat pattern?
Younger guys? Heck I'm only 72. Thought I was one of the youngest guys in the club.
Ride safe, Ted
I though 10' doors were normal?
NOTE: I ride with the group. I don't pass. Always ride slow and sedate.
Like to cruise in the straights, go to the turns, and then play in them.
Was being serious, why does the tire wear a flat pattern?
Younger guys? Heck I'm only 72. Thought I was one of the youngest guys in the club.
Ride safe, Ted
Really good explanation Color-me-blind, makes sense. thanks. Yes, I got 12,826 miles from my previous RSIVs, before changing them out. Other than the bumps on the front tire, the back was worn out, but no cord showing yet. I probably could have pushed it 500-miles, but I didn't want to look for new tires on a road trip. Most of my riding is mixed highway/work commuting miles and fun in the twisty's. I don't think mine is a low pressure issue as I keep the front at 40psi cold when Yamaha recommends 36psi on a 642-pound, full gas tank bike. I usually check it about every other week, but only have to top it off maybe once a month. I'm hesitant to take it any high as summers here temps run near 100-degrees, plus road/asphalt temp increases the pressure, tire resistance heat increases the pressure more...etc I'm sure the front tire pressure is pushing closer to 45-46 psi when hot on the road, if not more.
I did receive a response from Dunlop in less than 48 hours; but I've been out all week breaking in the new RSIVs at the Twisted Sisters, TX. The email from is Dunlop below. In my email, I was just asking for their thoughts on the wear patterns. I sent the email with my front tire pic and andydudes front tire pic. Seems they took it as a warranty issue, which is not the case. IMO this is still the best sport tire on the road for me for stickiness and mileage. If it rained more, I'd maybe consider the Michelin Roads.
Hi Oscar,
Thank you for contacting us regarding a concern with your Dunlop motorcycle tire. Treadwear is typically a result of operational conditions that are beyond our control as a manufacturer and for that reason is not recognized as a warrantable condition. However, without inspecting the tire in question we are unable to comment as to the condition or cause and suggest presenting the tire to the location from which it was purchased or to your local motorcycle dealer for inspection. To help us better understand the concern we ask that the inspecting dealer verify and share with us the following details:
Year / Model Bike -
Tire Size / Model –
DOT # (see example) –
Remaining Tread Depth –
Condition / Concern –
Mileage (if available) –
PSI-
Please ask the dealer personnel to contact our Consumer Affairs Department at 1-800-845-8378 to discuss their findings if necessary. Representatives are available weekdays 8:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Eastern time. A copy of our Dunlop Motorcycle Tire Limited Warranty can be located on our website at: http://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/info-center/warranty-info/
Please stay in touch and let us know if we can be of further assistance.
THOMAS LEE
Consumer Affairs
Dunlop Motorcycle Tires
8656 Haven Ave
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
800-845-8378
716-279-3579
I did receive a response from Dunlop in less than 48 hours; but I've been out all week breaking in the new RSIVs at the Twisted Sisters, TX. The email from is Dunlop below. In my email, I was just asking for their thoughts on the wear patterns. I sent the email with my front tire pic and andydudes front tire pic. Seems they took it as a warranty issue, which is not the case. IMO this is still the best sport tire on the road for me for stickiness and mileage. If it rained more, I'd maybe consider the Michelin Roads.
Hi Oscar,
Thank you for contacting us regarding a concern with your Dunlop motorcycle tire. Treadwear is typically a result of operational conditions that are beyond our control as a manufacturer and for that reason is not recognized as a warrantable condition. However, without inspecting the tire in question we are unable to comment as to the condition or cause and suggest presenting the tire to the location from which it was purchased or to your local motorcycle dealer for inspection. To help us better understand the concern we ask that the inspecting dealer verify and share with us the following details:
Year / Model Bike -
Tire Size / Model –
DOT # (see example) –
Remaining Tread Depth –
Condition / Concern –
Mileage (if available) –
PSI-
Please ask the dealer personnel to contact our Consumer Affairs Department at 1-800-845-8378 to discuss their findings if necessary. Representatives are available weekdays 8:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Eastern time. A copy of our Dunlop Motorcycle Tire Limited Warranty can be located on our website at: http://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/info-center/warranty-info/
Please stay in touch and let us know if we can be of further assistance.
THOMAS LEE
Consumer Affairs
Dunlop Motorcycle Tires
8656 Haven Ave
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
800-845-8378
716-279-3579
Sorry for being away from this post too long. You might have a good point Wayne with a bit of breaking while turning. First ride out with these i did go on a very twisty and rough road at a pace a little too spirited. So it could have started the uneven wear.
As far as requiring a different tire, this tire is suited for this bike. Maybe 44 psi or more would help.
Thank you so much Oscar for inquiring on this matter !
Andy