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Tech page ...C10

J

John P

Bicycle
I went to the debuzzing in the tech page C10 and had 5 choices. The top choice was valve adjustment.  I wanted the balancer adj procedure .  But I cannot scroll down or click on anything but Valve adjustment.
 
JP,
There could be a problem as you say with the page.  The balancer adjustment may actually be removed.  It was passed around for a few years as one thing that could help but was later proven to do no real good.  It is a gear meshing adjustment and not a balance adjustment.  If yours is still factory set and not giving you problems then just move on to something else to help with the buzz.  If someone has messed with it or you have to reset it after replacing the seal let me know.  I should have it printed at home.  I did the adjustment several times with several settings testing if it did anything to buzz and I never could find that it did.  Those that have gone in and looked at the guts of how it works agree.  It is a gear mesh adjustment not balance.
 
Looking at the source for that page, I think that is it. The page list 5 things you can do to reduce buzz. There are probably more, and could be added to the list.  -- I see an article for carb sync and that link could be added to the page ( I'll do that in a few ), but the other ideas for buzz dont have corresponding articles.  The page just simply list it as an idea to try.

I know this is in the clymer manual. Maybe take come pics and write down the steps from the manual, and any tips you come up with on things to avoid. Submit the article and help fill the void. Thanks.
 
Ok there are other things to do here, and for sure that page is horribly out of date


The Engine Mounts can be checked that may make a slight difference (the rear ones have a habit of breaking)
The handlebar grips can be replaced, see Murph
Bar end weights can be added, again see Murph
Replace the rods and pistons with ZX10B/ZRX11 combo. (See me LoL)

 
Colin said:
The Engine Mounts can be checked that may make a slight difference (the rear ones have a habit of breaking)
The handlebar grips can be replaced, see Murph
Bar end weights can be added, again see Murph
Replace the rods and pistons with ZX10B/ZRX11 combo. (See me LoL)
Click to expand...

- Aren't the engine mounts that break the fronts?  They get (got?) over torqued when a shim wasn't installed in the front  left one, if needed.  The rear ones, from what I've heard over the years anyway, will corrode and break or break from a REALLY hard bump.

- Properly adjust the steering head bearing (from the Service Manual).  Dan Bergmen <man?> had a pretty good method that involves feeling for play while trying to rock the bike fore and aft with the front brakes on.  Feel some play at the top bearing?  Crank it down a bit.

- Clean out the idle passages, adjust the float heights, and other wise make sure the carbs are "According to Hoyle".  Kinda goes along with the valve adjust and pilot screw adjustments. 

- Fix any vacuum leaks in the intake

- Plugs, wires, caps need to all be in good shape

- Check for hydrolock damage?  If a rod's been bent even a little at some point, it's gonna vibrate.
 
mdr said:
- Aren't the engine mounts that break the fronts?  They get (got?) over torqued when a shim wasn't installed in the front  left one, if needed.  The rear ones, from what I've heard over the years anyway, will corrode and break or break from a REALLY hard bump.
Click to expand...


I only have experience on the rear mounts shearing, when they do the whole handling goes west as the frame looses rigidity.
Likely the front goes too, but not seen or heard of that.

 
I've broken every mounting bolt on Connie's engine before (not all at once of course).  I DO have a tendency to over torque things... like the lid on pickle jars and peanut butter... most often after the wifey leaves the lid off.  ;)

Gawd she hates that.  >:D
 
I had upper left break also.  Put the correct amount of shim in it and torque it the correct amount and never happened again.
 
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