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Tire cut

S

slybonesjesse

Sport Tourer
533mi today. I found this at one of my breaks. I was sucking down a gatorade when I spotted this guy. I was about 130mi from home. Finished the trip, with more conservative speed and caution. This is 8K on the BT45 rear, with probably 2K or so left.

IMGP6530.JPG


 
Looks like it is time for a new tire.
What are those tiny little nubs or points of rubber sticking out of the side of the square flat  looking car tire?  I have seen them on brand new tires but normally they are gone after a couple of hundred miles.
 
^-^
(I think he was giving him crap about size of the chicken strip, that he can knock those tits off quick)

:))
 
LOL. Its not really that square or a car tire.  But with aprox 20% life left ( based on tread wear, not damage ) its definitey flattening out. Seems like a pretty common wear pattern for M/C rear tires.  As for the mold dimples remaining, being they are on the very edge of the tire, I am happy they are still there.
 
So would you ride on that tire?

I have been riding the little Ninja 250 for the last few days. The new tire is here. Question is would this go bad bad or stay like it is.
 
I definately wouldnt take it out of town.  Perhaps just a rubber seperation and nothing to do with the cords but way take the chance
 
There was a short while back a thread where people were discussing removing the rear drive housing when changing the rear tire. That it made it easier. There are those who insisted that you DO NOT have to remove the pig to get the tire off. We had some that mentioned leaving it connected to the tire and rolling the whole assy on a board/platform of proper height to not have stress on the rear drive and have it aligned. I was thinking about this, but didnt really visualize it. Was wondering about getting the height right etc. Then we had Dan Bergmen who says he removes the rear tire in the normal way in that he moveed the calipers out of the way and the spacer. Pulls the tires off and lets it drop. Leans it against the right side swing arm while removing the rear drive. Then rolls the tire out the huge amount of room you now have.  Allows for easy grease of the splines. Set the tire in place when ready, install the drive, then hoist up the tire and install the same ole way.

Well having now done both the DO NOT have to remove the pig method and the Dan Bergem method, I am gonna stick with the Bermen method from now on. While its true you do not HAVE to remove it, why the hell not.
 
Then we had Dan Bergmen who says he removes the rear tire in the normal way in that he moveed the calipers out of the way and the spacer. Pulls the tires off and lets it drop.
Click to expand...

I believe Dan has a bobbed rear fender, cut up to just under the side reflectors. 

I have to put my C10 (with stock rear fender) up on 2 x 8's, then pull the board out from under the rear wheel.  This allows me to get the rear wheel out without having to remove the final drive unit.  It may be possible, but I don't think I could get it out without that extra inch and a half.

Another option if need the front wheel off too, lower the front forks onto a jack or crate to pivot the rear end up higher than normal.
 
No bobbed fender here. Full length. And with the rear drive out of the way the tire rolls right out of there with ease. And I mean with ease. Like its too ####ing easy.

I guess that is the point. I too used to do the crazy amounts of wood and then struggle to get the tire out between the fender, etc. With the rear diff out of the way, you do not need all the wood, etc. Just simply roll the tire on out of there.

On the flip side you have those who have nicked the o-ring on the final drive shaft and have leaks after removing the rear drive. So its now without its risks.
 
Slybones said:
533mi today. I found this at one of my breaks. I was sucking down a gatorade when I spotted this guy. I was about 130mi from home. Finished the trip, with more conservative speed and caution. This is 8K on the BT45 rear, with probably 2K or so left.

IMGP6530.JPG
Click to expand...

That "rippled" area just to the right of the cut is indicative of the damage caused by hitting an object. Most likely you ran over something, a rock, piece of metal etc, that caused the cut. I doubt it was from some defect in manufacturing.
 
I'm in agreement with 2linby.... Unfortunately, the "crack" seems to be big enough to let moisture, dirt, and other debris into the area of the cords of the tire.  It probably wouldn't take to long to start a cycle of damage.  Frankly, I wouldn't want to "chance it" for a very long time.
 
New tire already installed.

With the old tire now in hand, I was looking it over and found 2 more spots. Very tiny ones just starting out. Maybe 1/8 and 1/4 inch long. In similar grooves in the tire. On the same side too.

Sad to have to say how lazy I have been. I still have my old BT45 from 8K ago out in the back of my truck. Just never got around to dropping that thing off. Now I have 2 out in the back of the truck. In any case, I looked that one over and nothing on it. Looks fine. Down to the wear bars, flattening out, etc. But no spots of interest.

 
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