Top-Block Instructions in English

[4bikes]

The installation of the Top-Block was not difficult.  The fairings don’t need to be removed, and that makes the job that much easier. Do not fear drilling the two holes.  There is almost no way to screw it up. 

Here is the info that was hard to figure out.  The Instructions were in French and they ignored my request for the English version, so I translated them using a Web App.  Hopefully these steps will make  the job easier.

1) Contact Tatiana at Top-Block.com ----- commercial(at)top-block.com ---- Ask for an Invoice that includes total cost including shipping.  The price seems to vary week to week and will be in Euros.
2) You can pay with PayPal (5% service charge) or wire the money.  To Wire the money ask Tatiana for this bank information:
-Bank Name:
-Bank Address:
-Payee Name:
-Sort Code
-Account Number
-IBAN:
3) Once you have this information.  Go to your bank and they will issue the wire transfer (costs $35-$45).  Process takes 10-15 minutes.
4)  The item then ships from France via Exapaq, goes through customs, and then arrives Fed-Ex.  I received a call from the company that handles customs and had to send a copy of the invoice.  Shipping took about 10 days.
5) The instructions are in French, so here they are translated to English.  Be sure to use Fred’s Photos as a reference.  http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/topblock


English Version of Top-Block Instructions
Consult the 3d assembly schematic and visualize the assembled parts. (Suggest actually putting all of the parts together)
1) Loosen the nut M12 left side of the bike and remove the right side through axle)
(see photo 1) Free the axel by tapping the axel from left to right.
Warning: Do not rotate the axis of the hexagon used to calibrate the gap between the engine and frame.
2) This step shows the Inserting the axle from the kit as shown in photo 2
3) Take tape or adhesive paper and align to the top lip of the black under fairing (shown in photos 3 and 4). The process is the same for the right side and same for the left side.  Marking down from the top fairing lip, draw a parallel line measured 26 MM down from the lip.  Warning:  you need to be very precise with this 26mm measurement.
4) Assemble the tube and the Platinum Rep.27 Rep.4 Rep Z6 with washer 29 and the screw TBHC Rep19 M6/10 (anti-rotation) torque to 5N.m with thread lock means, the set screw with CHC M10/45 Rep.18 torque to 34N.m with thread locking means (see photo 5)
5) Place the spacer Rep.10 on the axel bolt of the motorcycle, and place all previously assembled pipe & bar, lightly tighten the washer and nut Z12 Rep.13 Rep.14 so that rotation is still possible. Insert the scribe Rep.28 and rotate up and down to mark a point of intersection between the line on the paper and the mark scribed by the scribe point (see photo 6)
6) Rotate the arm to clear the area, and drill with a hole saw, a hole that is 25 to 30 mm (1 inch) diameter through the fairing. While drilling the fairing, be careful not to contact the mechanical parts inside the fairing. You must then deburr the hole (see photo 7)
7) Insert the left arm through the gills Rep.6 of the fairing, attach the arm with the screws CHC M8/35 M10/1.25/85 Rep.17 and washers as well, and tighten (see photo 8)
8) Assemble the arm tube Rep.27 Rep.6 with CHC Rep.18 M10/45, put thread lock on the screw threads, control and eventually adjust the shims with the clearance between the arm and the tube (see photo 9)
9) Tighten the nut 70N.m of M12, the M10 34N.m screws and torque of the screw 19N.m M8/35, insert the plastic cosmetic plug 25 rep30.
10) Place the pad Re.1, spacers and backed rep.21 Rep.22 and tighten all the screws and Rep.24 TBCH M8/30 M8/45 TBHC rep.22 put Loctite on the screws used and tighten moderately.
Right Side Instructions
1)Do the same way for the right side of the bike.

Translation for the parts list:
Vis=Screw
Patin Gauche=Left skate
Patin Droite=right skate
Platine Gauche=Platinum Left
Platine Droite0Platimum Right
Bras=arm
Axe=axis
Entretoise=brace
Rondelle=washer
Ecrou frein=lock nut
Plaque alu=Aluminum Plate
Entretoise epaulee=Backed spacer
Bouchon=Plug
Rondelle de clalage=setting washer

 

[Fred H.]

Here are some photos to go along with it.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/topblock

 

[fartymarty]

I've received mine but have yet to install them. I have held them up to the bike for a look-see.
You can still get the battery cover off right? ...or is there some special technique involved.

 

[Fred H.]

I've received mine but have yet to install them. I have held them up to the bike for a look-see.
You can still get the battery cover off right? ...or is there some special technique involved.

Battery cover still comes off with no problems.

 

[fartymarty]

First off thanks to Fred H. for the pictures and to 4Bikes for the translation.

I just installed mine and it was fairly easy and went quicker than I thought it would.

I did have one problem that concerns me a little. The M8 bolt that is removed to install the left
inner bar with the M8/35 and the M10/1.25/85 bolts came out very hard and the M8/35 that went
back in that same hole never did feel right, it snugged up but when I tried to torque it, it seemed
to spin too much, so I stopped before the wrench clicked. I'm not sure that I like that red thread
locker on aluminum that mama Kaw uses.  If I could do it over I think I would repeatedly try to heat
that bolt up before removal with a sacrificial torched and retorched allen wrench. It might also be that
the replacement M8/35 bolt is too long but I'm not taking it out to check now. I wish I had checked
that before I put it in.
Anyway keep your eye on that bolt when you install yours.

 

[ironmanmatt]

I've got my Top Block sitting assembled on the garage floor ready to install and now I'm worried about the existing Kawi bolts.  Is it suggested to heat up all those engine bolts that need to come out for the inner bars? 

Also the instructions show pics with the silver plate on top but they look much better flipped over and reversed..said another way the black side of the slide up.  It doesn't look like the arms are different if placed on either side?

 

[fartymarty]

I've got my Top Block sitting assembled on the garage floor ready to install and now I'm worried about the existing Kawi bolts.  Is it suggested to heat up all those engine bolts that need to come out for the inner bars? 

Also the instructions show pics with the silver plate on top but they look much better flipped over and reversed..said another way the black side of the slide up.  It doesn't look like the arms are different if placed on either side?

I only had a problem with the small bolt (8 mm) on the left side. I don't know if I should have done something different or not. I'm not sure how hot I could have gotten it anyway. Everything else worked like butta. Check the length of your replacement bolt (8MM/35) as it comes out of the inner bar against the length of the original bolt with the original washers on it. Maybe mine was bottoming out on threads that didn't go deep enough? Maybe mama Kaw just messed mine up at the factory. If my wife were on this forum she'd suggest that maybe I just don't know how to screw right.

I agree about the looks, I was thinking of painting the silver plate black, your idea might be better.

 

[ironmanmatt]

Gotcha. 

 

[4bikes]

I didn’t have any problem with the bolts, so perhaps it is unique to your motor build.  I used medium thread locker for the new bolts, so I’m hoping that isn’t a problem if they ever need to come out.  Flipping the left and right skates may be possible, and easy enough to try.  I kind of like the silver on top since it matches my Silver bike.  But if it works, I may change it up.

 

[membership]

Maybe I miseed something but where do you get the bars that the police bikes have

 

[Cap'n Bob]

Maybe I miseed something but where do you get the bars that the police bikes have

MC Enterprises. You can find a link to them in the farkle vendor directory just above in the C14 accessory section menu. They would be listed under tip over protection or something similar.

 

[scottjohnson65]

Thanks for the great ENGLISH instructions and pictures, guys!  Could not have installed it so easily without the torque values, etc.  Now on to my next project...

I want to buy the swing arm sliders from Top Block, but I cannot get a response from Tatiana or anyone else in France.  Any suggestions?

I sure wish they would get a U.S. distributor!

Thanks.

 

[zg]

Thanks for the great ENGLISH instructions and pictures, guys!  Could not have installed it so easily without the torque values, etc.  Now on to my next project...

I want to buy the swing arm sliders from Top Block, but I cannot get a response from Tatiana or anyone else in France.  Any suggestions?

I sure wish they would get a U.S. distributor!

Thanks.

An email to Tatiana is the best way to get a hold of them, sometimes it does take a little time for them to respond...

It's France, they only work like 12 days a month, and those days start at 9:30am and are done by 3:00pm... 

 

[ChrisD]

Was just reading up on the TOP BLOCK sliders and have decided to pick up a full set.  Now is the best time to do it with the Dollar so high in value or the Euro in the toilet. 

For a full set (front, rear and side sliders) for a 2012 Connie it will run about 579 Euro ($633) this includes shipping.

Tatiana is still there and her English is excellent.
contact@cfps.fr

http://shop.top-block.com/en/64-gtr1400-10-12

 

[4bikes]

I didn’t have any problem with the bolts, so perhaps it is unique to your motor build.  I used medium thread locker for the new bolts, so I’m hoping that isn’t a problem if they ever need to come out.  Flipping the left and right skates may be possible, and easy enough to try.  I kind of like the silver on top since it matches my Silver bike.  But if it works, I may change it up.

A post from over four years ago. I did end up removing the bolts with the medium thread locker when doing the valve adjustment. No problems coming out or going back in.

Removing the lower fairings with the Top Blocks installed is easy, since you only need to remove the skates, unbolt the fronts and they swing down and are out of the way.

 

[Fred H.]

I didn’t have any problem with the bolts, so perhaps it is unique to your motor build.  I used medium thread locker for the new bolts, so I’m hoping that isn’t a problem if they ever need to come out.  Flipping the left and right skates may be possible, and easy enough to try.  I kind of like the silver on top since it matches my Silver bike.  But if it works, I may change it up.

A post from over four years ago. I did end up removing the bolts with the medium thread locker when doing the valve adjustment. No problems coming out or going back in.

Removing the lower fairings with the Top Blocks installed is easy, since you only need to remove the skates, unbolt the fronts and they swing down and are out of the way.

Agreed.  I've done valve adjustments on bikes with Top Blocks installed and it is no big deal.  Unlike Canyon Cages, which are a major chore to remove and reinstall every time you need to pull off the plastic. After seeing how difficult the Canyon Cages make simple maintenance, I'm so glad I didn't put them on my own bike.