SP/GF6 came out. What's the best oil for the concours now?
The best is the homemade stuff, a reduction made from melting down Ki Pass fobs and mixing with the tears of children.
Exactly zero,What is the connection between oil and timing chain stretch? I thought the stretch was a result of the high-inertia variable timing mechanism inducing high-stress during rapid RPM changes.
I highly suggest you use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic.
(Your purchase will help fund my retirement from Shell).
Ride safe, Ted
I've been in the club over 20 years.
In that time, I know of NO engine failures that were attributed to oil.
The oil tread happens over and over and over.
I know folks will continue to ask. That's not an issue.
But, all this deep oil discussion is "overkill".
Current Oils are far superior to what used to be on the market.
Even plain old Dyno oil works fine.
I agree that some shifts better than others, but you don't have to spend $30-$40 a quart.
Buy some good oil and go.
"Let the flame's begin"
Ride safe, Ted
That’s the secret just leave the oil in there for 240,000 miles!T6 has been in my C14 for the last 240,000 miles & it shifts smooth as butter, purrs like a kitten.
That’s the secret just leave the oil in there for 240,000 miles!
Never a dull moment here!One in every crowd!
The known Achilles heel? Maybe the tensioner rattles but the chain itself?SP/GF-6A is supposed to meet 7 standards. Critical are: higher temperatures, resist sheer, less calcium detergent to stop LSPI. It has less zinc And yet miraculously preserve the timing chain much better. The chain is THE known Achilles heel on the concours which has the obvious need for an APE. You'll always need the APE but will this prevent premature chain degradation at high rpm?
Ted, this is a new oil issue. New specs came out and it's not simple. You can't just grab a bottle of oil off the shelf because it's your fav. If it don't say JASO-MA you're going to destroy your wet clutch.I've been in the club over 20 years.
In that time, I know of NO engine failures that were attributed to oil.
The oil tread happens over and over and over.
I know folks will continue to ask. That's not an issue.
But, all these deep oil discussions are "overkill".
Current Oils are far superior to what used to be on the market.
Even plain old Dyno oil works fine.
I agree that some shifts better than others, but you don't have to spend $30-$40 a quart.
Buy some good oil and go.
"Let the flame's begin"
Ride safe, Ted
I have high miles and use liqui moly 10/40!german oil .SP/GF6 came out. What's the best oil for the concours now?
That's too vague. Not enough information. We're talking about certifications and ingredients.I have high miles and use liqui moly 10/40!german oil .
So this happened sometime in 2018 when some Shell Rotella products were previously API Sx rated to claim gasoline engine spec for HDDEO through the waiver process covering the use of high phosphorus content oil on dual-rated engines. However, upon the introduction of the newer generation API CK-4 & FA-4, this waiver was eliminated and stricter upper limits for phosphorus content took effect for the API Sx ratings (API SN, for example, requires Phosphorus content <800ppm). Rotella oils well exceed the value needed for the API Sx spec and so it had to be stripped off from the labels and TDS. Hope this helps!So for all the endless banter regarding oils, I'm kinda surprised nobody has voiced an opinion on Rotella losing the API Sx spec. Has there been a formulation change? Or is it just because it can't meet the latest SN? If it's the second, why don't they still claim compliance with earlier specs?
They did SN+ before SP. Direct injection engines need it. I get it. But we don't and I haven't yet walked the aisles to see if the new SP oils have an MA cert. Guessing not, so I will just stay w rotella w the MA rating for nowSo this happened sometime in 2018 when some Shell Rotella products were previously API Sx rated to claim gasoline engine spec for HDDEO through the waiver process covering the use of high phosphorus content oil on dual-rated engines. However, upon the introduction of the newer generation API CK-4 & FA-4, this waiver was eliminated and stricter upper limits for phosphorus content took effect for the API Sx ratings (API SN, for example, requires Phosphorus content <800ppm). Rotella oils well exceed the value needed for the API Sx spec and so it had to be stripped off from the labels and TDS. Hope this helps!
Antiwear additives package along with Zinc. Most have been pulled from Automotive oil and replaced with friction modifiers. Unfortunately it does not work out well for high performance oils or extreme pressure Diesel. Just about all Diesel oil is Exempt and that is why they are losing the Gas classifications but remains popular among true gear heads!
I've been using Rotella T7. My teeth look fresh and shiny at the beginning of the day, but for some reason, they turn a dark brown by evening.What kind of toothpaste do you use?
As long as you do it regularly, does it matter?
Is there any way of knowing that is a current data sheet?Marty...if thats a current data sheet it looks good..Got yer email btw
Murph
If you are really bored.
API...
What was changed in Diesel motor oil?The Friction modifier question has come up for years.
As soon as it does, we see "Experts" quoting things they have read (but have no actual knowledge of).
During those years, many of us (including me) have used Mobil 1, or other automotive oils.
Some (including me) have used additives that were sold at the Motorcycle shops to improve shifting.
All of them "have" the Friction Modifiers in them. (And their probably not MA rated)
Even with many of us using oil that had friction modifier's, most (if not all) of the clutch problems we've seen have been mechanical, not slippage from the oil.
This is probably because most of our riding is done at partial throttle / Not on the racetrack / and we're not pushing 200+ HP.
I see now that they've changed the Diesel truck oils, the friction modifier has come up again, and we're having another big discussion.
I do understand everyone's concerns, but chill.
My point is, we've been using oils "with Friction Modifiers in it" for years.
Don't panic. Let's do some more research.
Ride safe, Ted
Let the flames begin.
Some do-getter thought the oil level was low in my Gixxer because on its side stand you didn't see oil in the sight glass. They added at least a quart of their favorite "energy conserving" oil and my clutch slipped afterwards.The Friction modifier question has come up for years.
As soon as it does, we see "Experts" quoting things they have read (but have no actual knowledge of).
During those years, many of us (including me) have used Mobil 1, or other automotive oils.
Some (including me) have used additives that were sold at the Motorcycle shops to improve shifting.
All of them "have" the Friction Modifiers in them. (And their probably not MA rated)
Even with many of us using oil that had friction modifier's, most (if not all) of the clutch problems we've seen have been mechanical, not slippage from the oil.
This is probably because most of our riding is done at partial throttle / Not on the racetrack / and we're not pushing 200+ HP.
I see now that they've changed the Diesel truck oils, the friction modifier has come up again, and we're having another big discussion.
I do understand everyone's concerns, but chill.
My point is, we've been using oils "with Friction Modifiers in it" for years.
Don't panic. Let's do some more research.
Ride safe, Ted
Let the flames begin.
Pretty sure that one's JASO-MA certified. If so then you got the right oil. I'm just wondering about the new SP/ILSAC-GF6 oils. I can't imagine any of these new oils having an MA certificationGreat! Just Great! First there is all this talk about the shortage of Rotella T6 due to supply chain issues, then AFTER I find some and purchase 4 gallons, then you decide to start an oil thread.
There's are new CK4 and FA4 specs as well but we can't assume that all diesel oils have an MA certification. We still have to look at the bottlesWhat was changed in Diesel motor oil?
My containers of Rotella T6 say both.
Chris
Pretty sure that one's JASO-MA certified. If so then you got the right oil. I'm just wondering about the new SP/ILSAC-GF6 oils. I can't imagine any of these new oils having an MA certification
I have a 6 cylinder Toyota close to 250,000. Mostly Walmart Supertech oil and filters. Starting to lose a 1/2 quart or less between the 7,000 mile changes.Neighbor had a Subaru with 286,000 miles on it, still sounded / looked good when he sold it, I asked him what oil did he use... He said what ever was on sale at oil change time...
Murph
My question is whether or not the new LSAC GF6A SP oils could possibly have a JASOMA spec
We are known to get of course here once in awhile.Guys I don't care about the brand of oil that's not my question. My question is whether or not the new LSAC GF6A SP oils could possibly have a JASOMA spec. I can't imagine how it would because it's going to be low friction for timing chains so obvious questions here it's got friction modifiers does it have an MA spec?
Yes. It's mandatory. Not optionalIndeed it was sir...apologize for the sidetrack
DOES IT HAVE A MA spec??
Everything I see on line does not mention Jaso or MA specs when it comes to this rating....
Murph