Wheel bearings

[giant81]

I just bought a new wheel, and I'm thinking before I get everything moved over to it, I should replace the bearings.

How smooth are the bearings? I put my finger in there and I can turn them easily, but they aren't like say 'fidget spinner' smooth or anything.  I suspect that's because they are larger bearings with a more viscous lubricant?

Should I bother?  The wheel said it came off the same year bike as mine (2009).  Is it something I can do myself without a press? 

 

[smithr]

I would change them.  I got mine out with a big punch and then put the new ones in with a socket and hammer.  Getting them out is hard because there is very little lip to catch with the punch so once it was apart I filed a notch in the sleeve so it will be easier next time. 

 

[Freddy]

If it were mine and the bearings feel smooth I would clean the area, flip the seal out of each one with a tiny screwdriver and apply a finger full of grease to each and the replace the seal and fit new hub seals.  I do this about every second tyre change. 

 

[Jorge]

The wheel bearing for a Connie (C10 and C14) won't spin freely unless the seals and grease are gone. Its' normal for them to require a little (very little) effort to spin, and they should feel completely smooth after you rotate them the first half turn. Before that, the grease can make it feel a little lumpy, but after that, the grease settles and smooths out. The smooth resistance you feel are the seals, and the grease.
If you're up to it, and can do it, replace them. There is NO way, other than expensive metallurgical tests, to determine if a bearing is about to fail. They can smooth one second, and the next they are noisy and rough. Sometimes they get rougher over time, but the point is that sometimes there is no warning before a bearing gets noisy. Keep in mind that there are a number of C14 riders with many miles on the bearings and they are OK. It seems that C14 bearings are more robust than C10, especially the fronts.
I suggest you stick to Western Europe, US, Canada, or Japan made bearings. Any others and you're getting substandard steel in them. Korea is a behind these, and China a distant last place (well, maybe there are other countries worse than China for bearings).

 

[Just Cliff]

More than likely there is nothing wrong with the bearings. Good chance they don't have many miles on them. I would still be inclined to change them just because the history of the wheel is unknown. With new ones you have no concerns.

Cliff  :beerchug:

 

[Daytona_Mike]

Any time I have to change out bearings on bikes/quads I take them to a local bearing shop and they will cross reference  over to a good quality bearing.
For example:  I dont like the cheap ones called All Balls

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
      I bought this HF bearing and seal driver kit with a 20% off coupon!

Just north of $20 that way.

I've used it a couple of times and seems to work well so far.

You can get a flat faced piece of brass or bronze rod to knock the bearing out!

I too would go to a bearing supply house and get the best I could get. :great:

With auto bearings if you go generic you WILL end up with a Chi-Com brand!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQbKXbhyFQs

 

[syxxphive]

Hi,
      I bought this HF bearing and seal driver kit with a 20% off coupon!

Just north of $20 that way.

I've used it a couple of times and seems to work well so far.

You can get a flat faced piece of brass or bronze rod to knock the bearing out!

I too would go to a bearing supply house and get the best I could get. :great:

With auto bearings if you go generic you WILL end up with a Chi-Com brand!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQbKXbhyFQs

On the same note, you can get a blind bearing puller from HF too. Should work perfect for pulling the bearing from the wheel rather than pounding them out.