I know I know it’s been posted before but here’s a short video of my issue, any input would be welcome as this thing is supposed to be safetied for roadworthiness on Monday.
I wasn’t talking about rear end fluid, I was askig about seal sweller, like Dot 3 brake fluid. The rear was filled with precisely 220cc.I never use volume as the amount of oil I add. I add oil until it reaches the lowest edge of the fill port.
Do not rotate the wheel while doing so, nor overfill. Overfill is bad.
Prior to doing this I would see leaks. Less oil solved it for me.
Ride safe, Ted
Thanks.Yours looks like a leaking seal. I don't recall seeing one drip like that before.
Mine would have oil on the rim/tire after a ride. I think it came out near the front of the housing.
There is a vent hole on the top somewhere. Too much oil (somehow) causes oil to come out there.
I discovered this on my (then new) C-10 after I changed the rear oil.
I drained, and refilled, but kept the level below the inner edge of the fill window.
NOTE: Turning the wheel with oil in it, the oil is carried by the gears and will be overfull after it settles.
For now, just suck out some of the oil (Below the fill window) and see if it helps.
Ride safe, Ted
After only a 2 mile ride last evening I stopped to inspect and there was significant leakage. I pulled the rear wheel this morning took a photo cleaned it all up and now I’m letting it sit to see where the seepage is coming from I can definitely see fluid on both the bottom outside conference of the main seal and also at the bottom of the drive where the backing plate-ish and that would be the big O ring. My only question now is who has taken apart the final drive I think there’s 10 or nine bolts to replace that large O-ring ?I'm going with too much oil - it's getting carried up high with the gears, and working its way out of the vent hole. I had this happen to my own '86 before I did the "just fill to to lower edge of the threaded hole" trick. I Follow this same procedure today for my 200K+ mile '95 with no issues.
The only way to know for sure is to pull the rear wheel and try to locate the oil source. If it first appears up high, it's probably the vent hole; lower is probably the main seal.
Here's the vent hole:
View attachment 33012
If you’re the type that pulls the final drive to R&R the rear wheel, I’ll throw this in here. If you go this route and have oil weeping out of the flange joint between the swing arm and the final drive once things are back together, you’ve nicked/cut the small o-ring that is located on the final drive pinion gear (Item 3 in the illustration below). Over time, these tend to harden up from age and heat, which makes them very susceptible to getting damaged when you’re trying to get the drive shaft and pinion gear splines mated back up. I highly recommend you replace that small o-ring when you have the final drive removed. New o-rings are more supple and take a little more abuse when you’re wrestling that heavy punkin’ around trying to get things lined up.
View attachment 33015
Once I decided it was a bad idea to invest a lot of money trying to fix a 27 year old motor I started stripping the bike. I swapped wheels with John Larmon and the splines in the hub looked good. So we suspected that the problem might be in the motor's output. As I said, I'm mechanically challenged and have no friends to help me out with figuring exactly what the problem is.Are you saying that you didn't remove the rear wheel or differential to see where the problem was?
Arghhhh!!!
Ride safe, Ted
The motor runs fine but no power is getting to the rear wheel. Did not see any damage to the splines.My OOps. I thought you said it had no power to the rear wheel, not a bad motor.
Ride safe, Ted
Did you check the splines on the drive gear in the rear wheel?Once I decided it was a bad idea to invest a lot of money trying to fix a 27 year old motor I started stripping the bike. I swapped wheels with John Larmon and the splines in the hub looked good. So we suspected that the problem might be in the motor's output. As I said, I'm mechanically challenged and have no friends to help me out with figuring exactly what the problem is.
John Larmon has the wheel that was on #3 when it lost drive. I don't know if he checked the splines closely in the rear wheel. I suppose I could start up #3 on the centerstand with the replacement wheels that are on it and see if the rear wheel turns when I put it in gear. If it does turnout that the problem was in the rear wheel I'm going to be really pissed that I bought #4 and have stripped so much stuff off of #3.Did you check the splines on the drive gear in the rear wheel?
The splines sticking out from the final drive 'pumpkin' are hardened whereas the drive gear splines in the rear wheel are not.
They are a planned wear part, that can get stripped bald if not proper greased and can be replaced.
PS: If it turns out to be just a rear wheel, you don't have to be mad at yourself.John Larmon has the wheel that was on #3 when it lost drive. I don't know if he checked the splines closely in the rear wheel. I suppose I could start up #3 on the centerstand with the replacement wheels that are on it and see if the rear wheel turns when I put it in gear. If it does turnout that the problem was in the rear wheel I'm going to be really pissed that I bought #4 and have stripped so much stuff off of #3.
Ted your the best!!! But if you are going to chastise me personally, I expect you to do it in person. It is a 1650 mile ride for you to get here which will give you a chance to do a Bun Burner Gold. When should I expect you to arrive?PS: If it turns out to be just a rear wheel, you don't have to be mad at yourself.
,,,, I'll be glad to chastise you personally. <evil grin>
Just because you have no interest in riding an Iron Butt certification ride is no excuse for not coming here to chastise me personally. You can always take a week to get here if that is a more comfortable pace for you.Sorry. I'm not an Iron Butt Rider/supporter.
I think that forcing yourself to stay awake and endure pain (to ride XX miles in XX hours) is dumb/unsafe.
So, I'll reword.
PS: If it turns out to be just a rear wheel, you don't have to be mad at yourself.
,,,, I'll be glad to chastise youpersonallyPublicly. <evil grin>
Glad I could clarify my previous statement.
Ride "Safe", Ted
(Let the Flames Begin)
With the current price of fuel Ted can't afford to trailer with his truck that far.Trailering shouldn't take a week